ROCKY MOUNTAIN Mountaineering in the Rocky Mountain National Park

PEAKS ACCESSIBLE PROM WARD.

The part of the Front Range from Arapaho Peaks, north to Mount Audubon, a distance of 6 miles, is called, collectively, The Arikarees. These peaks and pinnacles form one of the most rugged and forbidding parts of the mountains in this region, and it is difficult to find in the whole Front Range any stretch of country that can equal it in abrupt cliffs, sharp peaks, torn and ragged ridges and general wild and savage appearance.

Ward is a mining town with more past than present activity. It is located at an elevation of 9,253 feet, and most of the streets are steep and hilly. Practically all of the Arikaree country is within a radius of 8 miles from Ward, so that this town is a good starting point from which to reach the little known and seldom visited rampart of peaks bristling up only a few miles to the westward.

The road from Ward, past Redrock Lake to Brainard Lake, connects with the United States Forest Service trail up Mount Audubon (13,233 feet) and brings one within reach of Paiute Peak (13,082 feet) and Pawnee Peak (12,900 feet). If one continues on the trail above Brainard Lake, past Long Lake to Lake Isabelle, he is then within reach of Pawnee Peak and the steep north side of Navajo Peak (13,406 feet).

Bald Mountain (11,453 feet) is a point on the ridge leading from Navajo Peak, and seems of greater importance when seen from Ward than when looked down upon from any of the higher vantage points to the west.

PAIUTE PEAK, 13,082 FEET.

[Report furnished by Arnold Emch, accompanied by son, Walter Emch (Aug. 17, 1916).]

This peak may be ascended along the eastern face of Paiute Horn, thence to the top. It may also be reached from the top of Mount Audubon, which is the least troublesome route, and the one that we took. From Mount Audubon one has to go down about 300 feet to the lowest depression in the rugged but solid ridge connecting the two summits. The ascent of Paiute Peak from this saddle is an interesting, but not difficult, climb over a solid ridge formation. The top of Paiute Peak is much more interesting than that of Mount Audubon. We placed the Colorado Mountain Club register on Paiute Peak. The wind on the heights was ferocious. The descent over the southeastern face of the mountain requires careful going. Steep ledges and snow fields alternate clear down to the magnificent lake at the foot of both Paiute Peak and Paiute Horn. In a number of places steps had to be cut in order to pass down the snow slopes between the ledges. In the early season when great masses of snow are still embedded between the rocks, a direct descent as we made it is only advisable when aided by an ice pick. The time schedule for the trip was as follows:

Left Ward, 4.40 a. m.; Redrock Lake, 5.35; Brainard Lake, 6.05; end of United States Forest trail, 6.30; Mount Audubon, 8.50; left Mount Audubon at 9.30; saddle, 10; Paiute Peak, 10.30; left Paiute Peak, 11; down at lake at foot of peak, 12.30 p. m.; back in Ward at 5 p. m.

To have more time and leisure it would be advisable to stay over night at Brainard Lake and start early in the morning from this point.

PAIUTE HORN (12,900 FEET).

[Report furnished by Arnold Emch, accompanied by son (July 24 and 25, 1915).]

From Redrock Lake west of Ward, Paiute Horn appears as the most prominent and interesting elevation of the range; it is located between Pawnee Peak and Paiute Peak. Paiute Peak is not visible from Redrock Lake as it is hidden from view by Mount Audubon. I do not know of any previous ascents of Paiute Horn, which lies three-quarters of a mile south of Paiute Peak (13,082 feet) and half a mile north of Pawnee Peak. On account of its shape and proximity to the higher Paiute Peak, I named the mountain Paiute Horn.

We left Ward at 8.45 a. m., got to Redrock Lake at 9.45, and to Brainard Lake at 10.45; from here we followed the Mount Audubon trail, which was in course of construction by a United States Forest Service party. The trail starts directly north of Brainard Lake (elevation 10,300 feet). After proceeding approximately along the 11,000 contour line to a place on the south side of the creek, we stopped for lunch at 12.30 p. m. We then made a reconnoitering climb on the ridge leading from Brainard Lake up to Pawnee Peak. High up on this ridge we came to a number of crags and rock towers which seemed to make this route over Pawnee Peak to Paiute Horn impracticable. We returned and at 5 o'clock reached a convenient camping place just at timber line, where firewood was available.

The next morning we broke camp at 5 o'clock. Our plan was to climb Paiute Horn over the south ridge that connects it with Pawnee Peak, so we kept along the north face of this latter peak. A great number of snow fields and rock ledges had to be traversed before the highest lake directly east of Paiute Horn was reached. Great masses of ice were floating on this lake. A series of rocky barriers and snow fields have to be climbed before the saddle between Paiute Horn and a minor elevation south of the Horn can be reached. From this saddle a steep ridge formed of huge bowlders leads up to a big snow cornice which required the cutting of steps and careful going.

The summit was reached at 8 a. m. The western face consists of an immense precipice, and a sharp depression or notch, in the north ridge, interrupts the line over to Paiute Peak. We stayed an hour and a half on this magnificent mountain and then returned in two hours to our camp. At noon we left this bivouac and after spending some time at Brainard and Redrock Lakes, returned to Ward a little after 5 p. m.

PAWNEE PEAK (12,900 FEET).

[Report furnished by Arnold Emch.]

On the map this peak is marked by the angle in the boundary line between Grand and Boulder Counties, a little northeast of the letter K of Pawnee Peak. We left Ward in the forenoon in the direction of Redrock Lake, Brainard Lake, Long Lake, and Lake Isabelle, where we intended to camp out during the night. A very heavy thunder and rain storm compelled us to retire down to the unattractive cabin on Lake Isabelle, where we spent an uncomfortable night. The next morning was clear and we started at 5 a. m. from the cabin. The route was along the snow fields, rock ledges, and bowlder fields on the south side of the creek, and is not at all difficult. After reaching the top of Pawnee Peak we descended on the northeast face toward the beautiful lake.

From here we followed the creek down to Mitchell Lake (not named on the map, but south of the contour designation 11.000), went around it on the north side; going directly east we soon struck the newly built Government trail to the top of Mount Audubon, starting from the north shore of Brainard Lake. We got back to Ward at 5 o'clock in the afternoon.

This traverse of Pawnee Peak from Lake Isabelle to Mitchell Lake, although easy, is one of the most interesting trips in this region. It involves alternately the crossing of snow fields and rock walls with constantly changing situations. Above Mitchell Lake one must be careful in selecting a proper passage through the swampy high moors and the bothersome underbrush. Go right through it, and don't say much about it.

PLATE XXI. SOUTH ARAPAHO PEAK AND THE GLACIER. Photograph by Clark Blickensderfer. THE RIDGE BETWEEN NORTH AND SOUTH ARAPAHO PEAKS. Photograph by G. H. Harvey, jr.

PEAKS ACCESSIBLE FROM NORTH BOULDER CREEK.

The principal starting points for trips in this region are Silver Lake or (still higher in the string of lakes) Lake Albion or Goose Lake. Several of these lakes are now reservoirs. This area furnishes the excellent water supply for the city of Boulder and is under such regulations as will insure the purity of the supply. These regulations allow the use of certain cabins at Silver Lake, but discourage camping in the area above, unless special permission is obtained.

Silver Lake may be reached from Glacier Lake, Hill, Blue Bird Mine, or several other stations on the Eldora branch of the Denver, Boulder & Western Railroad. It may also be reached from Ward. Glacier Lake may be reached by automobile, without much difficulty, from Denver, via Nederland, or by one or two other routes, but there are several hills in this neighborhood that are too steep for automobiles. A few autos go all the way from Glacier Lake to Silver Lake, but the trip, like many of the trips over the steep mountain roads, is hard on tires and requires a good hill-climbing car and a careful driver.

Taking the north fork of the creek, from Silver Lake, we pass Lake Albion and the Green Lakes, from which Navajo Peak (13,406) feet, Arikaree Peak (13,147 feet), and Kiowa Peak (13,101 feet) are all accessible. Mount Albion (12,596 feet) is a promontory south of Kiowa Peak and can be climbed by a short detour from that point.

Taking the west fork of the creek, from Silver Lake, we pass Island Lake, Goose Lake, and Triple Lakes, and from here Mount Albion, Kiowa Peak, and Arikaree Peak are accessible, as well as the principal points of interest at the head of this valley, namely, Arapaho Glacier and Arapaho Peaks. The North Peak (13,506 feet) is the higher of the two Arapaho Peaks, more rugged and more difficult to reach. The South Peak (13,342 feet) is separated from the North Peak by a ridge half a mile or more in length. This ridge is sharp and precipitous on both sides, but is not dangerous if the rocks are dry and free from ice. In the glacial cirque east of the two peaks lies Arapaho Glacier. It is the largest and most perfect of the glaciers in this region, probably in the entire State. All of these glaciers, however, are but dwarfed remains of the mighty ice streams that once filled the valleys and played such an important part in the present topography of the country.

PLATE XXII. Upper: Arapaho Peaks from Silver Lake. Photograph by Clark Blickensderfer. Lower left: Isabelle Glacier, Navajo Peak. Photograph by G. H. Harvey, jr. Lower right: On the Arapaho Ridge. Photograph by Clark Blickensderfer.

In a visit to the glacier one should take along an ice axe or something for cutting steps in the ice, and should not venture on the snow-covered portions of the glacier early in the summer; dangerous crevasses may be concealed beneath. The ascent of either the North Peak or the South Peak, direct from the glacier, is difficult and somewhat dangerous, and should not be attempted by anyone not familiar with rock climbing or steep snow slopes.

The South Peak, the ridge, and the North Peak are most easily reached from the Fourth of July Mines. One of the mine buildings is shown on the map. Others, where one may find shelter for the night, are located near the creek, south of the one shown on the map. The South Peak is an easy climb from the Fourth of July Mines, and one may then cross the rather dizzy ridge to the North Peak.

The Fourth of July Mines is reached from Eldora, the terminus of one branch of the Denver, Boulder & Western Railroad. One may walk, ride, or drive from Eldora to the mine.

Arapaho Pass (11,906 feet), or Boulder Pass, as it is sometimes called, is located about 1-1/2 miles beyond the Fourth of July Mines. It leads over the Continental Divide and down the western slope to the Fraser River or to Monarch Lake. A wagon road was started over this pass many years ago, but abandoned.

Mount Neva (12,800 feet), the most southerly peak on the map, may be reached from Arapaho Pass or from the Fourth of July Mines.

NAVAJO PEAK (13,406 FEET).

[Report furnished by Arnold Emch, accompanied by two of his sons and two other young men (Aug. 19 and 20, 1915).]

Next to North Arapaho Peak, this is one of the finest peaks of the whole region. We left Ward at 10 a. m., and followed the mountain road to Left-hand Park (old dilapidated reservoir). We crossed over Bald Mountain ridge and reached the upper Albion mining camp at half-past 1. We spent the afternoon here and passed a tolerably comfortable night, prepared breakfast and started on our climb at 5 a. m. We followed the route to the upper Green Lake, and from here along the eastern slope of the ridge from Arikaree Peak to Navajo Peak. Thus we reached the small lake under the letter K of Navajo Peak on the map. From here we enjoyed the magnificent view of the rugged ridges between Arikaree Peak, Navajo Peak and Arapaho Peak. On the first part of the climb there are no difficulties; the chimney and the final climb may be accomplished by any sure-footed climber.

The last portion of the ascent is the really interesting part of the whole climb. We stayed about 45 minutes on the summit and admired in particular the imposing view of North Arapaho Peak from this elevation. The northeast face of Navajo Peak is very abrupt and leads down to Lake Isabelle. A descent to this lake over a very steep snow field may be undertaken; it would seem advisable, however, to use ice picks and rope on either an ascent or descent over this route. The long Bald Mountain chain terminates in a ridge.

NAVAJO PEAK (13,406 FEET).

[Report furnished by W. F. Ervin (Sept. 1, 2, and 3, 1917).]

Number in party 12—9 men, 3 women.

The Colorado Mountain Club party left Denver on Saturday, September 1, 1917, with an even dozen members on the Colorado & Southern 8.15 train for Boulder, where we changed cars and went to Hill Station, on the Boulder & Western, where we left the train at 12.10 p. m. After loading our equipment on the wagon, we walked to the top of the first hill on the Silver Lake road and stopped there three-quarters of an hour for lunch and then Walked to University Camp, where we again met the wagon. We walked on to Silver Lake and then over to Camp Albion, where we pitched our camp for the night.

We left camp at 6.10 Sunday morning, walked up the train track to the Lake Albion dam, and then around the south side of the lake to where the trail meets the road and followed this to the camp at Green Lakes. This would be a good place to camp if one were packing, but it is impossible to get a wagon beyond Camp Albion. Here we took the trail which leads up the watercourse and followed it to the end and then kept on up the watercourse past Green Lakes until we came up on the shelf above Upper Green Lake, or the last lake of the Green Lakes chain. We did not go on up to the little lake at the foot of the snow bank, but turned north and climbed to the low point in the ridge running east from Navajo. Up to this point the climb presents very little difficulty. From here we took a diagonal course across the face of Navajo Peak to a point on the ridge about 200 feet south of the summit and then followed the ridge to the top. This last 200 feet of the climb is very interesting, but not dangerous. We arrived at the summit at 11.30 a. m. Distance traveled, 4 miles. The last 900 feet of the climb is over medium-sized loose rocks and is fairly hard climbing.

We left the summit at 12.30 p. m. and nine of us went back the way we had come to the camp at Green Lakes while the other three climbed Arikaree Peak from the north side. From the camp at Green Lakes we took the upper road, which keeps up on the hill north of the creek and the lakes and returned to camp. This part of the walk was very beautiful, as you can look across Lake Albion to Kiowa Peak and Arikaree Peak. We arrived at camp at 5.30 p. m. The weather was fine all through the trip.

Monday we broke camp and started down at 9.15 a. m. Walked to Silver Lake and then around for a mile or so on the Goose Lake road. We then walked down to Arapaho Falls where we cooked lunch, and went on down to Bluebird and took the train to Denver.

While there is some hard climbing on this Navajo trip, the distance is short. It is a very pleasant trip and gives a wonderful view of rugged peaks, close at hand.

Log of trip to Navajo Peak.

ARIKAREE PEAK (13,147 FEET).

[Report furnished by Carl Blaurock, accompanied by F. H. Clark, Morton Hamon, and Charles H. Saunders (Sept. 2, 1917).]

Four of us left the Colorado Mountain Club party after having climbed Navajo Peak, and started about 1 p. m. to follow along the serrated ridge between Arikaree Peak and Navajo Peak, with the intention of climbing up the precipitous northern side of Arikaree Peak.

The going was fairly good over small bowlders until the large snow bank lying in the hollow of the cirque was reached, and here Clark was sorely tempted to leave the party and slide down the snow some 300 feet to an icy bath in the beautiful glacial lake below, but after several long looks decided to stay with the rest of us until a more favorable spot was reached. So we continued, keeping our elevation and paralleling the ridge around until the foot of the large cliff to the west of Arikaree was reached.

Here Clark temporarily left the party and slid down the glacier and worked his way around to the foot of Arikaree on the moraine. The rest of us continued along the edge of the snow bank for a short distance, when Hamon and Saunders decided to cut across the bank at a favorable-looking spot while I continued along the edge until the first large fissure extending up the cliff was reached. This I could not cross, as it was too steep and the ice gave me no foothold. Hamon and Saunders had meanwhile worked their way around to the ice chute extending up to the gash between Arikaree Peak and the cliff beside us. Here the ice got too steep for them to secure a foothold. Saunders then slid down the glacier and joined the main party, on their way to Green Lakes.

I next turned to the cliff and started to climb up. After going up about 50 feet I wanted to go down again, as footholds and handholds began to get scarce and the cliff smoother and steeper (estimated 75° to 85°), but going down was still more difficult, so I kept on ahead, occasionally resting on some small knob, poised in midair, while I noted the great amount of space around me, especially at my feet. At times there would be small patches of snow and ice which made the climbing more precarious, and in one or two places it was necessary to hang by my hands and swing myself, pendulum fashion, around a smooth piece of rock to a new foothold. Soon the top of the fissure was reached and the going was good up to the notch, into which I descended and could then see Clark on the other side and quite far below me, giving advice to Hamon, who was still sitting at the foot of the cliff.

Then ensued a three-sided powwow as to what to do next, after which Hamon got across the ice chute and joined Clark, and we all continued up Arikaree. The going was not so bad here, though still very steep and with much loose rock, so that footholds and handholds had to be carefully chosen to avoid dislodging these or other rocks. Being quite a bit above the others, I reached the top first, at 3.30 p. m., while they joined me in about 15 minutes. We sat there half sa hour or so, enjoying the scenery, then started for camp by way of the saddle between Mount Albion and Kiowa Peak, which is an easy route all the way down, except for a small stretch of rock and a snowbank, down which we slid, just above Lake Albion.

KIOWA PEAK (13,101 FEET).

[Report furnished by Arnold Emch (August, 1913).]

One gets a beautiful view of this mountain from the ridge that leads from Bald Mountain (11,453 feet), in a westward direction up to Navajo Peak. The uppermost Albion Mine, from which the ascent can be made, may be reached from Ward (by crossing over Bald Mountain) or from Silver Lake. We took the early morning train from Eldora to the Blue Bird Mine, walked to Silver Lake, and from here to the upper Albion Mine. We left this place at ll o'clock and, after a steady climb of three hours, reached the summit, which bears a triangulation station of the Boulder City survey. The mountains and the range were immersed in clouds. At times it was not possible to see farther than 20 feet in any direction. We waited over an hour on the summit, hoping that the clouds would disperse, but conditions, instead of getting better, grew steadily worse.

As it was then after 3 o'clock, we decided to descend on the south side toward the Arapaho Peaks. This side of Kiowa Peak is extremely interesting, much more so than the northern face, and keeps the climber constantly busy and on the alert. When we got down to Frozen Lake, the fog lifted for a moment and we saw the wonderful and romantic location of this beautiful lake. Farther down we had to contend again with rock barriers, and a number of times had to hunt for places where it was possible to get down. It was 6.30 p. m. when we came to a place above the northern shore of Triple Lakes. The clouds began to settle down on the lake and it got dark, so we were forced to camp here. During the greater part of the night the fog around us was so dense that our shadows were projected on it by the light of the camp fire. It was impossible to distinguish anything more than 10 feet away from the fire. The next day we returned by the usual route to Silver Lake and to Eldorn.

ARAPAHO PEAKS—SOUTH PEAK (13,342 FEET) AND NORTH PEAK (13,506 FEET).

[Report furnished by Arnold Emch (various trips, from 1900 to 1914).]

These peaks can easily be climbed in one day from Eldora, especially if the trip to and from the Fourth of July Mines is made by wagon. On the map only the upper mine and the dilapidated trail leading to it are shown. The lower mine, nearer the creek, where night quarters may sometimes be obtained, is not shown on the map. From here a trail leads to the upper mine.

South Arapaho Peak is located on the map just north of the letter A in the word Pass. It may be reached without difficulty from the Fourth of July Mines in three or four hours. There is a trail most of the way. The main portion of the ascent begins at the saddle, from which a magnificent view of the glacier below presents itself. The North Peak, shown as Arapaho Peak on the map, may be reached from the South Peak, over a very rugged rock ridge. This, however, takes more time and requires sure footing and a steady head. South Peak may also he climbed in the same easy manner over the ridge, coming from Caribou, which joins the other route at the saddle.

On the six excursions which I have made on this mountain, the descent was made twice upon the glacier. The last of these traverses, August, 1912, was the most interesting. In spite of the advanced season, great masses of snow still remained on the mountain. My oldest son, Walter, was with me and we were tied together by a rope. To get down at all, I had to cut steps for at least two hours in the very steep surface of hard snow leading down to the glacier. We finally struck the south wall of North Arapaho Peak. By sliding down the rest of the inclined snow plane, the glacier was reached in a few minutes. The crevasses in the upper part of the glacier were mostly packed with great masses of snow and, consequently, did not cause us any trouble, as they had done on a previous trip. Below the glacier extended several snow banks and below these were lakes in terrace formation. From the highest of the Triple Lakes, we followed the tedious route down the valley. A little below Silver Lake in a boarding house conducted by a Mrs. Parker, we found welcome quarters for the night. The next day, on our way down to the blue Bird Mine (a station on the Denver, Boulder & Western Railroad), we had an opportunity to admire the beautiful upper Boulder Falls. Shortly afternoon the train brought us back to Eldora. My brother-in-law and I made a somewhat easier descent upon the glacier in 1911.

On September 3, 1900, my brother and I made a complete ascent and traverse of the more difficult North Arapaho Peak. I do not know of any previous ascent of this North Peak and was told that it had not been climbed before. We started at 4.30 a. m. from a bivouac in the rocks southwest of and above the upper of the Triple Lakes. The night was cold; we were without a tent or sleeping bags.

After climbing for some time over a chaos of huge bowlders, cliffs, and rocky barriers, so characteristic of all high valleys in this section, we came to the glacier. Its lower portion was absolutely harmless, while the upper strata, leaning on the south wall of North Arapaho Peak, were very steep in places. The bergschrund, a crevasse in the ice, which is always found in the highest portions of a glacier, was very irregular and in places from 30 to 50 feet deep and 5 feet wide. It required very careful work to find a suitable bridge across the chasm. From here the rest of the climb was an exhilarating scramble with hands and feet up the rugged southern wall. It was a little after ll o'clock when we reached the summit of North Arapaho Peak, one of the most magnificent peaks of the Colorado Rockies. Surely there could stand no finer monument in memory of the valiant and noble Arapaho Indians than this imposing and dominant peak, which, like a guardian, watched for centuries the wild folk dwelling in his domain.

An hour of supreme enjoyment passed like an instant, surrounded as we were by the greatest and purest display of nature. As there was hard work ahead of us, we departed promptly at half past 12. Not expecting particular difficulties, we chose for our descent the rugged northeast ridge. The first part was steep and in some places precipitous, but the difficulties continued to increase. In one place a perpendicular precipice blocked our route, so that we had to retrace our steps and then go down a narrow, ice-filled gully. From here we were able to reach the notch below the precipice. The view from here toward the opposite east ridge was first rather discouraging, but close inspection showed that with sufficient care the descent could be accomplished from this lofty eyrie. To get to this notch, still high up, we had lost over two hours of valuable time. Thirty feet below, the almost perpendicular rocks, surrounding the gap in the crest, terminated in a steep snow field of very hard icy structure. Three hundred feet below, this field fell directly into a lake whose extremely dark blue water suggested gruesome and frigid depth. It took two hours more to perform the difficult and dangerous task of crossing this treacherous incline.

With this passage accomplished, all difficulties were over, and the traverse was a success. Climbing along the rugged eastern slope and down over a number of steep rock barriers, we finally reached the upper of the Triple Lakes. above which we bivouacked the night before. From here it was impossible to follow the irregular and clifflike shores of the string of lakes that extends to the east.

At the time of our first exploration in this region there was no trace of a trail like the one now in existence. The lakes had to be avoided by tediously climbing around over very rough ground, crossing alternately heavy, dead timber, bowlders, and shallow basins or moors filled with swamp grass. Above Goose Lake the falling night compelled us to camp in the open. Our provisions had run out, and in the morning, when we had to continue our journey, we were in a weakened condition. We managed to reach the cabin at Silver Lake at 5 o'clock in the morning. The forest guard prepared a breakfast for us which tasted better than any we could remember. After a cheerful tramp of about 7 miles down to the station of Sunset, a train took us back to Boulder.

The trail from Triple Lakes to Silver Lake lies north of the lakes. This is important, as two attempts to pass on the south side resulted in failure.

On long, hard trips the traveler should be well provisioned; in fact, he should have some reserves for cases of emergency. Prolonged lack of food in the higher regions may become positively dangerous, and continuous expenditure of energy without food is impossible.

An account of this ascent of North Arapaho was published in the Rocky Mountain News of September 16, 1900.

MOUNT NEVA (12,600 FEET).

[Report furnished by Arnold Emch, accompanied by son, Walter Emch (August, 1913)1.

The road to the lower Fourth of July Mine, where one can stay over night, and the mine itself, are not shown on the map. They are near the creek, directly south of the mine building indicated on the map. This magnificent pyramid, Mount Neva, the sentinel of Middle Park, is on the Continental Divide just south of Arapaho Pass.

We left the Fourth of July Mines at 5 in the morning, and followed more or less the rugged ground along the creek that crosses the word Neva on the map. Dense undergrowth and high moors above timberline had to be overcome by scouting through the wearisome labyrinth. At the end of the creek we circled around the southern shore of the frozen lakes, which are not completely shown on the map, and from here gained the south ridge of Mount Neva by climbing more or less in a northwesterly direction, After this ridge was reached the top was not far off and we arrived at 9 a. m. The frozen lakes which we passed were still covered with thousands of tons of floating ice in immense blocks. Mount Neva may also be scaled from the point (12,557 feet) west of Lake Dorothy (12,050 feet). Arapaho or Boulder Pass (B. M. 11,906) lies a short distance northeast of the mountain. From this north side a steep snow field must first be traversed before the crest leading up to the summit can be reached.

On our way down from Mount Neva, the first part of the route was identical with the line of ascent, and we then went south to the valley of the Jasper Lakes (Central City quadrangle map). We reached the Continental Divide between South and Middle Jasper Peaks and from here descended directly to the uppermost Jasper Lake, which was entirely covered with ice, The scramble from here down to the lower Jasper Lakes is very interesting and leads through landscapes of romantic ruggedness. Returned over the usual trail, down from Jasper Lakes, in the rain, and reached Eldora at 7 o'clock in the evening.