Chapter 3:
SEARCHING FOR THE SONG OF THE WINDS
"It became evident that we were not to be left
monarchs of all we surveyed. Folks were drifting in prospecting,
fossicking, preempting, making claims; so we prepared for
civilization."
The Earl of Dunraven in Past Times and Pastimes [1]
A VISIT to the Rockies always seems to inspire the
writing of post cards or letters to those back home. Whether the scenery
sparks creativity, or new adventures warrant chatter, or excitement
needs to be shared, people have been writing about their experiences in
these mountains for many years. But of all those card and letter
writers, few ever achieved the level of lasting fame accorded the
adventurous English traveler Isabella L. Bird.
No one would ever suggest that Isabella Bird changed
the course of Rocky Mountain history. After all, her 1873 visit lasted
less than three months. She bought no land; she built no cabins; she
started no famous hotels; she did not propose the establishment of a
park. She merely wrote about what she saw and experienced. And she never
returned in the remaining three decades of her life. Nevertheless, her
description of an adventuresome climb up Longs Peak remains a minor
classic. Her romantic imagination and descriptive pen painted vivid
portraits of the region's inhabitants and its natural features. But even
more valuable to us, her letters to her sister provide us with a glimpse
at the changes sweeping across this mountainous landscape in the decade
after Joel Estes and his family sold and moved out. Those were the years
when William Byers attempted another climb of Longs Peak, a time that
brought official government explorers, more mountain climbers, more
hunters, more subsistence ranchers and settlers. It was a time that saw
a flurry of health seekers, promoters, and literate tourists like
Isabella Bird herself. After entering the region, she
wrote on September 28th, 1873: "I have just dropped into the very place
I have been seeking, but in everything it exceeds all my
dreams." [2]
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At the same time pioneers and prospectors
attempted to scratch a living out of the Rockies, curious and affluent vacationers invaded the
region. (RMNPHC)
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By 1867, people newly settled in Colorado had
discovered that their mountains held more than gold. Although obsessed
with gaining mineral wealth, noted observer Ovando Hollister in his book
The Mines of Colorado, Coloradans also found that "rambles in the
Mountains, riding, hunting, bathing, fishing, berrying, camping out,
living on air, puts new cheeks on old bones and paints them the
richest brown." Wilderness would work its wonders. Even with dynamite,
Hollister predicted, man could hardly ever alter these mountains.
"Silence and solitude are the inheritance of these forest wilds," he
wrote, "where even the loudest explosions rouse only a faint, short
echo, and where the song of the winds is an eternal and subdued
sigh." [3]
At the same time another enthusiastic traveler,
Bayard Taylor, suggested that much of Colorado would soon become a
perfect summer resort. In his book Colorado: A Summer Trip,
published in 1867, Taylor noted dozens of reasons why "Colorado will
soon be recognized as our Switzerland." Among Colorado's glories was its
air, "more delicious to breathe," according to Taylor; yet "it is
neither too sedative nor too exciting; but has that pure, sweet,
flexible quality which seems to support all one's happiest and
healthiest moods." [4] Clearly, a mere visit to these mountains
would start a person on the path to health.
In the late 1860s a man seeking better health became
Grand Lake's first permanent resident. Joseph Wescott suffered from
crippling rheumatism and had come to find a cure in the waters of Hot
Sulphur Springs in Middle Park. Hot Sulphur Springs was just then an
infant resort hoping to become a major spa. Feeling sufficiently cured
to fend for himself, Wescott moved to Grand Lake to hunt and fish and
also build a cabin. But harsh weather and deep snows in the winter of
1867 almost killed him. Fishing and hunting were poor if not impossible
and Wescott nearly starved to death. "In desperation," local historian
Nell Pauly reported, "he cut the deer hide from the seat of his chair
and boiled it to a glutinous mixture, adding, for seasoning, a few herbs
he was able to dig from the ground under the snow." After supposedly
eating his shoes in a similar manner, "he kept a spark of life in his
starving body until he was rescued by a hunting party which stumbled
upon his lonely cabin." There, "almost demented and delirious from
undernourishment," Wescott was saved. [5] And at Grand Lake he
would remain, earning pioneer status in that community after having
survived his first winter. With Wescott's arrival, progress
came quickly, for occasional trappers soon gave way to tourists who
began arriving during the summer of 1868.
East of the Divide, claims to the land of Estes Park
rapidly changed hands as the harsh realities of ranching in the
mountains became known. Among those making an effort to subsist in Estes
Park during the late 1860s was a Welshman named Griffith Evans. Like
other pioneers, he was persistent. Evans was ranching on the old Estes
property in 1873 when Isabella Bird made her visit. "The ranchman, who
is half-hunter, half-stockman," Mrs. Bird wrote describing Evans, "and
his wife are jovial, hearty Welsh people from Llanberis, who laugh with
loud, cheery British laughs, sing in parts down to the youngest child,
are free hearted and hospitable, and pile the pitch-pine logs half-way
up the great rude chimney." Hunting, ranching, and catering to a few
visitors allowed the Evans family a lean living in Estes Park. Basic
items such as food and shelter took on greater significance here. "There
has been fresh meat each day since I came," Isabella Bird chirped,
"delicious bread baked daily, excellent potatoes, tea and coffee, and an
abundant supply of milk like cream. I have a clean hay bed with six
blankets, and there are neither bugs nor fleas." What more could any
frontier traveler ask? "The scenery is the most glorious I have ever
seen," she added, as if noting a bonus, "and it is above us, around us,
at the very door." [6]
While the Evans family hoped to exploit the mountains
and assist a few travelers, William N. Byers returned to fulfill his
dream of conquering the famed Longs Peak. As the pioneering editor of
The Rocky Mountain News, Byers acquired a habit of tramping
through the gold fields, wandering throughout Colorado, and promoting
this developing territory in print. His failure to reach the Longs Peak
summit in 1864 must have gnawed away at his adventurous pride. As he
went about his tasks in Denver, Longs Peak probably loomed like a
failure on his horizon. For early in the 1860s, William Byers had
successfully defeated his early opponents in the Denver newspaper
business. He was an ambitious man and his ambition would not allow Longs
Peak to remain unclimbed.
Byers's second chance for a Longs Peak climb came in
1868. In that year John Wesley Powell, a one-armed Civil War veteran, a
geology professor at Wesleyan University in Illinois, and a self-styled
explorer, came on his second trip to Colorado. That summer Powell
brought a group of about thirty students, constituting what they called
the Colorado Scientific Exploring Expedition (given its pretentious name
because it was partially sponsored by the Illinois State Natural History
Society). One year earlier, in 1867, Powell
came West on a similar trip and scrambled to the top
of Pikes Peak with ease. There he remarked: "The trouble with climbing a
mountain is that you can't stay on top." [7] The euphoria of
being atop Pikes Peak and seeing unconquered Longs Peak 103 miles to the
north must have given Powell another goal. Professor Powell was just as
ambitious as editor Byers.
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The adventurous editor of the Rocky
Mountain News, William N. Byers attempted to climb Longs Peak in 1864, but
failed. In 1868 he joined geologist John Wesley Powell and together
they succeeded in leading the first known ascent to the summit.
(RMNPHC)
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So in August of 1868, William Byers joined Powell and
his students at their camp in Middle Park. From there they decided to
ascend Longs Peak. Powell and Byers, along with Powell's younger brother
Walter, Byers's brother-in-law Jack Sumner, and three students, left
their base camp at Grand Lake on August 20th. Starting on horseback,
they took a mule loaded with ten days' rations and "each man carried his
bedding under or behind his saddle, a pistol at his belt, and those not
encumbered with instruments took their guns." They followed ridges
southeastward, gradually moving toward timberline and meeting an
"impassible precipice." Forced to leave their horses behind on August
22nd, they moved upward afoot, following ridges that appeared to lead
toward the Peak but only ended at "impassible chasms." But finally a
route was discovered. Late that day one of the students, L. W.
Keplinger, scrambled upward ahead of the rest and scouted a usable route
to the summit. Forced to wait until the next morning, the seven men
spent a windy, wet night and "shivered the long hours
through." [8]
On August 23rd, "the day dawned fair," Byers later
wrote, "and at six o'clock we were facing the mountain." Although the
route chosen by Keplinger appeared impossible ("a great block of
granite, perfectly smooth and unbroken") the climbers "were most
agreeably surprised to find a passable way, though it required great caution,
coolness, and infinite labor to make headway; life often depending upon
a grasp of the fingers in a crevice that would hardly admit them." [9]
By ten o'clock that morning they stood on the summit. Capping
their success with relief, L. W. Keplinger noted: "There were no indications of any prior
ascents." [10]
William Byers found his wish fulfilled; he was among
the first party ever to climb Longs Peak. Even more important, he became
the first to describe its summit in print. "The Peak is a nearly level
surface, paved with irregular blocks of granite, and without any
vegetation of any kind, except a little gray lichen," he wrote. "The
outline is nearly a parallelogrameast and westwidening a
little toward the western extremity, and five or six acres in
extent." [11] Then, according to L. W. Keplinger, a moving event
took place on the mountain. "As we were about to leave the summit Major
Powell took off his hat and made a little talk," Keplinger recalled. "He
said, in substance, that we had now accomplished an undertaking in the
material or physical field which had hitherto been deemed impossible,
but that there were mountains more formidable in other fields of effort
which were before us, and expressed hope and predicted that what we had
that day accomplished was but an augury of yet greater achievements in
such other fields." [12] After their three-hour stay on the summit, they
stuffed mementos and notes in a tin can to be left on top. Then they
unfurled a flag and left it waving in the breeze as they began their
descent.
The troupe spent another night out in the open,
without blankets. That evening they suffered even more, "because we were
out of 'grub.'" On August 24th, they returned to their old camp on Grand
Lake, weary but basking in their success. William Byers recalled: "We
had only been gone five days; had been eminently successful, and of
course were satisfied; the more so because the mountain had always been
pronounced inaccessible, and ours was the first party that had ever set
foot upon its summit." [13]
William Byers became a booster for the region in
general while John Wesley Powell gained credit as the first of the
"official" government explorers to enter the region. But Powell did
not tarry in these mountains; his sights were already set on a trip down
the Colorado River, a venture that was to bring him national fame and
make his speech atop Longs Peak nearly prophetic. Powell and Byers
introduced the era of scientific investigation and geographical
exploration, soon to be followed by a series of surveys entering the
area.
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Above: William Henry Jackson photographed
members of the Hayden survey party in 1873. (RMNPHC)
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Within the next several years, detachments from two
major government surveys entered the mountains. Following the Civil War,
Congress displayed a growing curiosity about the American West, funding
extensive geological and topographical surveys. "The results of this
quest for knowledge," notes historian Richard Bartlett, "were four
geographical and geological surveys conducted over large areas of the
West from 1867 until 1879, when the U.S. Geological Survey which is
still in existence, took over." [14] In 1867, for example,
Congress funded a geological survey of Nebraska to be led by Ferdinand
Vandiveer Hayden. Soon Hayden expanded his efforts to become the U.S.
Geological and Geographical Survey of the Territories. Major Powell
received $12,000 from Congress in 1870 to continue a survey in the
Colorado River country. In addition, two surveys under the War
Department were also authorized. One of these, the U.S. Geological
Exploration of the Fortieth Parallel, under the direction of Clarence
King, tended to overlap the territory covered by the Hayden survey.
These great surveys became, to some degree, great rivalries. The
leaders, aside from being serious scientists, were ambitious men who
tended to be egotistical. One place in the West where these surveys
overlapped was Rocky Mountain National Park. Perhaps, as we saw with
Major Powell, Longs Peak challenged men of ambition. Clarence King
arrived in 1871 and Hayden would follow in 1873.
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Gathering geographic and geologic data meant
scampering to numerous mountain summits. Longs Peak was merely one of many mountains in the
area receiving attention from surveyors lugging their triangulation
equipment along to determine distance and elevation measurements.
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In 1871, for example, Arnold Hague's party, a
subdivision of King's Fortieth Parallel Survey, entered Estes Park. Most
members of these teams were young men, mountaineering enthusiasts, and
notably literate. With this crew came Henry Adams, a descendant of two
presidents and a noted scholar. Slightly in awe of his companions,
Adams described the men's work as they "held under their hammers a
thousand miles of mineral country with all its riddles to solve, and its
stores of possible wealth to mark." While Hague's men pecked and pawed
at the flanks of Longs Peak, Henry Adams went fishing. "The day was
fine," Adams recalled, "and hazy with the smoke of forest fires a
thousand miles away; the park stretched its English beauties off to the
base of its bordering mountains in natural landscape and archaic peace;
the stream was just fishy enough to tempt lingering along its banks."
And it was "lingering" that caused Henry Adams to fish until dark, lose his
trail back to camp, and force him to backtrack upon his mule down to
Evans's cabin. There Adams found Clarence King and became enchanted with
this scientist-explorer of the West. The two men were soon provided with
a sparse cabin where they "shared the room and the bed, and talked till
far towards dawn." "King's abnormal energy had already won him great
success," Adams observed. "None of his contemporaries had done so much,
single-handed, or were likely to leave so deep a trail." [15]
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Dr. Ferdinand Vandiveer Hayden (seated)
confers with an assistant in an 1872 camp near Golden. (RMNPHC)
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Scaling mountains and describing geologic mysteries,
not fishing, were the general tasks of these surveyors. Many peaks were
climbed, careful maps and geologic charts were drawn, elevations were
calculated with barometers, and details of flora and fauna were noted.
In 1873, James T. Gardner of the Hayden Survey moved through Middle
Park, carefully describing its natural features, observing its infant
towns and mining camps, following the Grand (now Colorado) River into
its upper reaches. Although scientifically dry reading, Gardner's
reports were significant for their collection of details. After men such
as Gardner or Hague passed through an area, few could argue that the
West remained unexplored.
Working their way through the mountains, Gardner and
his men carried their scientific instruments to the summit of Longs Peak
as well as to ten other mountains and six passes within the region. Just
at that time, another well-known lecturer and writer (and avid mountain
climber), Anna Dickinson, happened to be climbing mountains in Colorado
and met Gardner and his crew hard at work near Longs Peak. These were
"men who ought to be immortal if superhuman perserverance and courage
are guarantees of immortality," she wrote. Dickinson watched them go
about their tasks in awe of their determination. "I remember that after
supper when we were camping at timber line, Gardner took one of his
instruments and trotted up the side of the mountain to make some
observations. He expected to be gone half an hour, and was
gone, by reason of the clouds, nearer three hours, 'but,' as he quietly
said when he came back, speaking of the clouds, 'I conquered them at
last.'" [16]
All these government surveys helped bring national
(if not Congressional) attention to the mountains and parks of
Colorado. For just like William N. Byers, men such as Hayden, King, and
Powell were always conscious of publicity. Thus it was not mere chance
that led James Gardner and Professor Hayden to invite both Anna
Dickinson and William N. Byers to accompany them on their September
1873 climb of Longs Peak. Naturally, these writers eagerly
agreed; stories of adventure filled with colorful
characters always excite a grateful public readership. But an added
reward came to Miss Dickinson for her climbing efforts. For although
several other ladies started out on this ascent with the Hayden party,
Anna Dickinson was the only woman to make the summit that day and became
the first of her sex to claim that achievement. Apparently the climb
impressed her less than the men she met, for she barely mentioned Longs
Peak at all in her autobiography. Interestingly, a more exuberant
Isabella Bird made her ascent only a month later with a small blessing
from her predecessor. Finding the boots she had borrowed from Griff
Evans too large and uncomfortable, she discovered "a pair of small
overshoes, probably left by the Hayden exploring expedition," which she
conveniently and happily used, even though they "just lasted for the
day." [17]
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William Henry Jackson's 1873 photograph of
Estes Park captured a scene of virtual wilderness. Even though fourteen years had
passed since Joel Estes homesteaded this valley, hardly a trace of human
habitation is in evidence.
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Aside from assuring that a steady stream of glowing
prose poured from both explorers and journalists, Hayden made certain
that pictures of the landscape were produced, a practice that
characterized most major surveys of the West. The man hired to
promote both the West and the Hayden Survey was photographer William
Henry Jackson. In late May of 1873 his party of seven men left Denver
and headed for Estes Park. There they made their base camp near Mount
Olympus, not far from the Evans ranch. In spite of the rainy weather
that plagued them, Jackson and his crew tramped into Black Canyon,
visited Gem Lake, and wandered into the Bear Lake and Dream Lake
regions. Within a few days he managed to capture the essence of the area
upon his fragile glass plates. His photography was not only remarkable
because he led where thousands upon thousands of camera buffs would
follow, but also because of the excellence of the pictures he produced.
After a few days, Jackson moved his crew southward, heading toward the
mining camp of Ward and other regions of Colorado. In 1874 Jackson
toured Middle Park on a similar photographic mission, capturing Grand
Lake at that time. William Byers's poignant description was now matched
by art. "Imagine a great mirror," Byers had written, "a mile wide and
two miles long, bordered all around with thick timber, and beyond that
with stupendous mountains, flecked with patches and
great fields of snow, except one narrow, scarce
noticable notch through which the river escapes, and you have Grand
Lake." [18]
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Frontier photographer William Henry Jackson
packed his bulky camera equipment throughout the Rockies, recording majestic
panoramas on fragile glass plates. (RMNPHC)
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While Grand Lake received accolades from the press, a
steadily increasing number of fishermen, and summertime visitors, and
while Longs Peak brought explorers and climbers, Estes Park itself drew
a man who helped to shape the destiny of the entire region. Just after
Christmas in 1872, a party of English sportsmen visiting Denver decided
to try hunting in the mountains above Estes Park. Leading this band of
gentlemen was Windham Thomas Wyndham Quin, also known as the fourth Earl
of Dunraven and Mountearl in the Peerage of Ireland, second Baron Kenry
of the United Kingdom, Knight of the Order of St. Patrick, and
Companion of the Order of St. Michael and St. George. Aside from being
linked to English nobility, the Earl of Dunraven was enormously wealthy.
In 1872, at age thirty-one, he already owned forty thousand acres of
land and four homes, including Dunraven Castle at Glamorgan. Prior to
his Estes Park visit the Earl had traveled widely in Europe, the Middle
East, and in Africa. He served in the First Life Guards, was an
excellent horseman, and had a nervous energy that led him to become a
war correspondent during a conflict in Abyssinia and during the
Franco-Prussian War.
He first came to the United States on his honeymoon
in 1869, visiting only the East Coast. In the autumn of 1871 he returned
to America, this time to venture into the West. The completion of the
transcontinental railroad in 1869 made his trip a bit easier. There he
hunted elk in the region of the North Platte River under the guidance of
Buffalo Bill and Texas Jack Omohondro. Like other English aristocrats
who ventured into the wilderness, the Earl traveled in style, even
bringing a personal physician, Dr. George Henry Kingsley. The Earl
planned to live an adventurous life. As historian Dave Hicks notes, he
"enjoyed a good pipe, good liquor, good food, women and sports. But not
necessarily in that order." [19]
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Dressed in his yachting uniform, the Earl of
Dunraven displayed the aristocratic demeanor of a man of wealth and position. Here was a man
who nearly succeeded in owning all of Estes Park. (Estes Park
Trail-Gazette)
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Once again, in 1872, the Earl of Dunraven returned to
hunt, this time in Nebraska, Wyoming, and in Colorado's South Park.
While relaxing among the night spots of Denver, the Earl met Theodore
Whyte. Mr. Whyte, then twenty-six years old, had arrived in Colorado
during the late 1860s. Originally from Devonshire, England, he had
trapped for the Hudson's Bay Company for three years and had tried his
hand in the Colorado mines. During some of his earlier rambles, Whyte
became familiar with Estes Park. Whyte, much like Isabella Bird and the
Earl of Dunraven, represents a then developing English interest in the
Rockies. This was a distinctly curious generation of people,
investigating regions for adventure or excitement as eagerly as Hayden
or Powell explored for science. In Westward the Briton, historian Robert
Athearn claims that "the state of Colorado drew more of these curious
observers than any other western state or territory. So many of them
came to visit, and even to stay, that the state has been called 'England
beyond the Missouri.'" [20]
"It was sport," the Earl later recalled, "or, as it
would be called in the States, huntingthat led me first to visit
Estes Park." [21] Theodore Whyte sang the praises of the area,
telling the Earl about the abundance of deer, elk, and bear just perfect
for "sport." But very little convincing was necessary. Soon the Earl and
a few friends were heading into the foothills, following the crude
cattle trail leading toward Estes Park. Once there, they stayed with
Griff Evans, another of their countrymen and a man eager to please the
nobility of his homeland. In the ensuing days, the Earl hunted elk in
Black Canyon, along the Fall River, and in the Bear Lake area.
"Sport" and the mountains themselves combined to
impress this well-traveled man. "Everything is huge and stupendous," he
observed. "Nature is formed in a larger mould than in other lands. She
is robust and strong, all her actions full of vigor and young
life." [22]
The attractions of Estes Park brought the Earl back
for a second trip in 1873. Its atmosphere proved addicting. "The air is
scented with the sweet-smelling sap of the pines," he wrote, "whose
branches welcome many feathered visitors from southern climes; an
occasional humming-bird whirrs among the shrubs, trout leap in the
creeks, insects buzz in the air; all nature is active and exuberant with
life." [23] "The climate is health-giving," he argued, sounding
much like a local booster, "unsurpassed (as I believe)
anywheregiving to the jaded spirit, the unstrung nerves and
weakened body a stimulant, a tone and vigor so delightful that none can
appreciate it except those who have had the good fortune to experience
it themselves." [24]
At some point during his visits, the Earl decided he
would attempt to acquire ownership of all of Estes Park. Fits of greed,
after all, strike at most people; many have had similar desires to
possess this land, perhaps wishing to exclude others and control it for
selfish purposes. But only the Earl of Dunraven had both the wealth and
the will to try to buy it. Only a handful of squatters stood in his way
and within a few short years the Earl came close to owning
everything.
Assisted by his new friend Theodore Whyte and several
Denver bankers and lawyers, the Earl first arranged to have the park
legally surveyed. Once that formality was accomplished, the Earl and his
agents used a scheme, common among other speculators, exploiting the
Homestead Law to their advantage. They found local men in Front Range
towns willingfor a priceto stake 160-acre claims
throughout the park. More than thirty-five men filed claims using this
ploy. Then, Dunraven's "Estes Park Company, Ltd." (or the English
Company as it was called locally) proceeded to buy all those parcels at
a nominal price, estimated at five dollars per acre. Between 1874 and
1880, the Earl managed to purchase 8,200 acres of land. In addition, the
Company controlled another 7,000 acres because of the lay of the land
and the ownership of springs and streams.
Exactly what the Earl intended for his Estes Park
estate is not clear. The most obvious future for the land was its
continued use for ranching. At that time Griff Evans herded about a
thousand head of cattle there, some of which belonged to two Denver
investors. But Griff Evans, just like a number of other homesteaders,
quickly traded his land for English cash. The Earl
explained his goal simply: "Herbage was plentiful,
and cattle could feed all winter, for the snow never lay. It was an
ideal cattle-ranch, and to that purpose we put it." [25] Whether it
was going to be developed as a private hunting preserve for the
exclusive use of the Earl and a few of his English friends was a subject
for much speculation and popular debate.
Soon additional plans were announced in the Denver
newspapers. In July of 1874, reports came that a sawmill would be
built, Swiss cattle were to be introduced, ranching would be expanded,
and a hunting lodge would be constructed in Dunraven Glade on the North
Fork of the Big Thompson. Theodore Whyte was chosen to serve as the
Earl's agent and manager in Colorado.
As soon as the Earl began his effort to acquire and
develop Estes Park, a bitterness developed between those settlers who
had no intention of selling and leaving and the powerful forces of the
English Company. Reverend Elkanah Lamb, for example, had earlier chosen
a homesite just east of Longs Peak. He loudly voiced his disgust at
those who sold out. "Griff Evans," Reverend Lamb recalled nearly four
decades later, "being of a good natured genial turn of mind, liking
other drinks than water and tempted by the shining and jingle of English
gold, Dunraven very soon influenced him to relinquish his claim and all
of his rights in the park for $900." Lamb also believed that the Earl's
land-grabbing was fraudulent: Dunraven picked up men of the baser sort,
irresponsible fellows not regarding oaths as of much importance, when
contrasted with gold." Those who cooperated with the Earl, according to
Reverend Lamb, "prepared to sell their souls for a mess of pottage at
the dictation of a foreign lord." [26]
Bitterness led to outright confrontations and
violence became inevitable. A man reportedly antagonistic to the
English Earl and his scheme was James Nugent, better known as Rocky
Mountain Jim. Typical of some frontiersmen, Rocky Mountain Jim had a
shady, somewhat mysterious past, so conflicting in detail that it is now
impossible for us to construct his tale with accuracy. Isabella Bird
took care to describe his looks. "His face was remarkable," she began.
"He is a man about forty-five, and must have been strikingly handsome.
He has large grey-blue eyes, deeply set, with well-marked eyebrows, a
handsome aquiline nose, and a very handsome mouth." Her elaborate
description included the fact that half of his face and one missing eye
had been repulsively mauled by a grizzly bear only a short time before.
"Desperado," she concluded, "was written in large letters all over
him." [27] Furthermore, he bore the kind of reputation a mother
could easily use to frighten her children.
Like other squatters in the area, Jim trapped for a
living and also kept a small herd of cattle. Unlike the others, he
controlled some very important real estate: his cabin sat at the head of
Muggins Gulch, dominating the main entrance to Estes Park. Ill feelings
began developing between Griff Evans and Mountain Jim, probably over the
idea of land being sold to the Earl, possibly over Jim's glances toward
Evans's teenaged daughter, and perhaps enhanced by liquor in both men.
Isabella Bird realized the discord between these two men. "For, in
truth," she wrote, "this blue hollow, lying solitary at the foot of
Long's Peak, is a miniature world of great interest, in which love,
jealousy, hatred, envy, pride, unselfishness, greed, selfishness, and
self-sacrifice can be studied hourly, and there is always the
unpleasantly exciting risk of an open quarrel with the neighboring
desperado, whose 'I'll shoot you!' has more than once been heard in the
cabin." [28]
No less than five different versions have been told
regarding the shooting of Rocky Mountain Jim. None can be regarded as
unbiased accounts, since factions had already formed both for and
against the English Company. And Englishmen were involved in the
shooting. That shots were fired on June 19, 1874 seems fairly certain;
that Griff Evans probably pointed the shotgun and pulled the trigger
seems equally true. The immediate cause is a mystery. Reverend Lamb,
clearly hostile to the Earl, argued that Jim asked for trouble when he
"declined to permit this fraternity of English snobs and aristocrats to
pass through his sacred precincts any more, there being at the time no
other way in or out of the Park." [29] Dunraven himself
presented the killing differently: "Evans and Jim had a feud, as per
usual about a womanEvans' daughter." [30] Dr. George
Kingsley, the Earl's physician, described the scene when Mountain Jim
came toward the Evans ranch that day in June. "Jim's on the shoot!"
someone yelled, hoping to warn Evans. Griff Evans, rudely awakened from
a nap, bounded to his feet, grabbed his double-barreled shotgun loaded
with "blue whistlers," charged out of the cabin, aimed at Jim, and
blasted away. But he missed Jim completely. An associate of the Earl, a
Mr. Haigh, then cried, "Give him another barrel!" and Evans obliged.
This second blast killed Jim's horse outright and knocked "the great
ruffian" to the ground. Five of the "blue whistlers" found their mark in
Jim's head. [31]
Jim was down but not dead. In fact, he lived for
three more months, lingering with a pellet lodged in his brain. While
Jim was being tended by Dr. Kingsley, Evans supposedly rode thirty miles
to sign out a complaint against Jim for assault. Later, Evans himself
was arrested and charged with the shooting. Mountain Jim remained alive
until September, being nursed in Fort Collins but finally dying of his
wounds. Evans's trials was not scheduled until
July of 1875 and then the case was speedily dismissed
for lack of witnesses. Not surprisingly, the Earl treated the matter of
Jim's lingering lightly: "But it is hard to die in the wonderful air of
that great altitude . . . and before many weeks had passed he was packed
down to the settlements, where some months later he did die." On Evans's
escape from trial, the Earl interpreted "the result of the verdict to
the effect that Evans was quite justified, and that it was a pity he had
not done it sooner." [32]
So it really did not matter whether it was land
ownership or a personal squabble that led to Mountain Jim's death; he
was conveniently removed from the scene. Jim, after all, was only a
minor annoyance. The English Earl had plenty of power to continue with
his plans. But the continuing arrival of more settlers by the
mid-1870speople who would dispute English Company claimshelped
produce a more realistic plan for Estes Park. Any dreams of a private
hunting preserve soon vanished. "I well remember the commencement of
civilization," the Earl recalled in 1879. It arrived with "an aged
gentleman on a diminutive donkey." The Earl sat enjoying a hot summer's
evening on the stoop of a log cabin. There this stranger approached the
Earl and asked, "Say, is this a pretty good place to drink whiskey in?"
The Earl replied, "Yes" and then continued, "naturally, for I have never
heard of a spot that was not considered favorable for the consumption of
whiskey, Maine not excepted." So the fellow queried, "Well, have you any
to sell?" "No," the Earl replied, "got none." [33]
As the old codger disappeared, "puzzled at the idea
of a man and a house but no whiskey," thoughts of building a hotel and
catering to a growing public demand for shelter and sustenance must have
taken form in the Earl's mind. Ideas about serving travelers in Estes
Park were not original with Dunraven. The Estes family assisted the
handful of people who visited the region in the 1860s, especially those
parties attempting to climb Longs Peak. Mrs. Estes prepared a few meals
for guests. Griff Evans continued that sporadic service and even thought
about building a hotel in 1871. But Evans opted for smaller, cheaper
cabins placed near his own. It was the Earl of Dunraven who decided upon
a grander project. In 1876, Colorado attained statehood; perhaps the
Earl responded to this vision of a new era with his own view of what
progress should bring.
In the autumn of 1876, the Earl again returned to
Estes Park, this time bringing the noted artist Albert Bierstadt. The
Earl commissioned Bierstadt to paint a large landscape of Estes Park
and Longs Peak. Once completed, the Earl reportedly paid Bierstadt
$15,000 and the painting was transported to Europe to adorn the
walls of Dunraven Castle. While in the area,
Bierstadt was also asked to use his artistic eye to help select a site
for the Earl's hotel. Dunraven made his decision and had the wealth to
insure speedy construction. By mid-January of 1877, Bierstadt had
completed the sketches for his painting and had helped select a hotel
site on the eastern side of Estes Park, near Fish Creek. Soon after,
work was under way on the building of The Estes Park Hotel, locally
called The English Hotel. The lodge opened in the summer of 1877 and the
tourist industry of the area entered a new phase.
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Although cattle ranching was the main
enterprise on the Earl of Dunraven's domain, the resort business also received
attention. The Estes Park Hotel, called The English Hotel by local
residents, began catering to vacationers in 1877. (RMNPHC)
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Within a few fleeting years, Estes Park had changed
from a primitive ranching area to the scene of a publicized resort. "The
marks of carriage wheels are more plentiful than elk signs," the Earl
soon boasted, "and you are not now so likely to be scared by the
human-like track of a gigantic bear as by the approaching impress of a
number eleven boot." Dunraven believed that the beauties of Estes Park
destined it to become a pleasuring ground. "There is plenty of room
elsewhere for wild beasts," he argued, "and nature's beauties should be
enjoyed by man." [34]
In her own eccentric fashion, Isabella Lucy Bird
slipped into Estes Park just before the Earl started bringing progress,
before Mountain Jim met his violent death. And, in a way, she
became an ideal tourist, not worrying whether there was a fancy hotel
available. She stayed at the Evans ranch, renting a small cabin for $8
a week and gamely assisted with the chores, tending cattle when asked to
help out. Soon she realized that Griff Evans only appeared jolly;
problems plagued him. "Freehearted, lavish, popular, poor Griff loves
liquor too well for his prosperity," she observed, "and is always
tormented by debt." [35] When she wrote those words, Evans must
have already realized that the Earl might become his economic salvation.
During her stay Isabella Bird absorbed everything
about life in the mountains. She noted everything new or unusual and did
not appear eager to move on. "This is surely one of the most entrancing
spots on earth," she wrote. [36] Born in Yorkshire, England, in
1831, much of her early life revolved around her father, an Anglican
clergyman. Because she suffered a chronic spinal disease, her father and
physicians advised her to travel, hoping she might regain her health.
Early in the 1850s she made her first trip to Canada and the eastern
United States. She returned in 1857 to study an American revival
movement and made a third trip to the East Coast shortly thereafter. It
was during her fourth journey to America that she visited the Rockies.
Letters home to her sister Henrietta described scenes and adventures so
skillfully and dramatically that in 1878 an English weekly, Leisure
Hour, published them as "Letters from the Rocky Mountains." In 1879,
the collection of letters became a book entitled A Lady's Life in
the Rocky Mountains.
In 1873 Isabella Bird was a "quiet,
intelligent-looking dumpy English spinster," according to biographer Pat
Barr. [37] Fearlessly,
she traveled by train to Cheyenne, then by horse and
wagon to Longmont, and finally by horseback to Evans's ranch. Primitive
travel conditions and seedy hotels found on Colorado's frontier failed
to bother her; she delighted in adventure; she enjoyed her escape from
the stifling propriety and conventions of her Victorian homeland.
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Isabella Bird sketched a self-portrait,
displaying her attire and her horse Birdie as they appeared during her 1873 visit to
Estes Park. (From A Lady's Life in the Rocky Mountains, by Isabella L.
Bird. Copyright 1960 by the University of Oklahoma Press)
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And strangely enough, she delighted in the company of
Rocky Mountain Jim. Somehow the demeanor of this desperado enchanted
her. "He was very agreeable as a man of culture as well as a child of
nature," she noted. [38] Unlike others who openly despised or
simply avoided him, she found "his manner was that of a chivalrous
gentleman, his accent refined, and his language easy and
elegant." [39] His language alone "places him on a level with
educated gentlemen, and his conversation is brilliant, and full of light
and fitfulness of genius." [40]
Rocky Mountain Jim seemed to be equally enchanted
with this English lady. Her civil tongue, if not her simple kindness,
must have drawn his attention. Furthermore, women of any type were in
short supply on Colorado's frontier. Within a day or two of her arrival,
Jim appeared at the Evans ranch and offered to guide Isabella on a climb
of Longs Peak. Two young men also staying at the ranch were invited as
well.
The four proceeded to timberline on horseback, well
stocked with food and supplies by Mrs. Evans. Isabella even borrowed a
pair of Griff Evans's boots, regardless of the fact that they were too
large. That first night they camped "under twelve degrees of frost,
hearing sounds of wolves, with shivering stars looking through the
fragrant canopy, with arrowy pines for bed-posts, and for a night lamp
the red flames of a campfire." [41]
All the details of Isabella's climb cannot be
recounted here, but in her opinion the experience proved quite
harrowing. "Never-to-be-forgotten glories they were," she later
recalled, "burnt in upon my memory by six succeeding hours of terror."
During this struggle, the two young men regarded Isabella Bird as "a
dangerous encumbrance," but Jim insisted he would guide no further if
they left her behind. Ultimately, she made the summit, even though Jim
"dragged me up, like a bale of goods, by sheer force of muscle." [42]
While it took terror, difficulty, and "much assistance," to make
the climb end in success, few people ever appreciated the conquest more.
"A more successful ascent of the Peak was never made," she concluded,
"and I would not now exchange my memories of its perfect beauty and
extraordinary sublimity for any other experience of mountaineering in
any other part of the world." [43]
Climbing Longs Peak apparently strengthened a bond of
friendship between Rocky Mountain Jim and Isabella Bird. Many writers
have already speculated about the genesis of a romance between the two.
Since we can only judge from Isabella's imaginative letters, it is
impossible to tell exactly what transpired. She did describe a scene on
November 18th when they went for a ride through the Park. "It began on
Longs Peak," she reported Jim confessing. And his emotional revelation
of being "attached to me" made her terrified. "It made me shake all over
and even cry," she told her sister. "He is a man whom any woman might
love but no sane woman would marry." Many times the Rockies have been
referred to as a romantic setting; Isabella Bird provided a rare
historical example. But she quickly recovered her
composure during this conversation, realizing her feelings for this man
could only lead to an impossible future. Rather coldly, she rejected his
affection, although admitting, "My heart dissolved with pity for him
and his dark, lost, self-ruined life. He is so lovable and fascinating
yet so terrible." [44]
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In her drawing entitled "My Home in the Rocky
Mountains," Isabella Bird displayed Griff Evans's ranch with Longs Peak
looming in the distance. This was the scene soon to be acquired by the
Earl of Dunraven. (From A Lady's Life in the Rocky Mountains, by
Isabella Bird. Copyright 1960 by the University of Oklahoma Press)
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Early in December of 1873, Jim accompanied the
dauntless Englishwoman back down to the prairie. The temperature
was twenty degrees below zero and "the air was filled
with diamond sparks." [45] There she caught a stage to Greeley and
Mountain Jim was soon left behind. Arriving on the same stage that
carried her away came Mr. Haigh, "dressed in the extreme of English
dandyism," the man who would play a fateful role in the shooting of
Mountain Jim only seven months later. The dandy asked to return with Jim
to Estes Park in order to hunt.
Isabella Bird saw Estes Park while it was still a
primitive ranch on the verge of becoming a resort. The mountains kept a
wilderness flavor. At the same time, she also saw settlers hard at work
struggling to make a living much like the Estes family of a decade
before. She also exemplified the casual influx of curious English people
coming to Colorado, arriving for adventure and sport. She followed the
very footsteps of official government explorers. Longs Peak drew her
attention, just as it had attracted Powell and Byers, Hayden and
Dickinson. Eventually, her letters helped publicize the area, much like
the articles in Byers's Rocky Mountain News and the development
of Dunraven's hotel. Like the Earl himself, she must have realized that
the area was changing rapidly, just like any other frontier newly found.
And as a tourist, biographer Pat Barr noted, Isabella Bird became Estes
Park's first ideal guest: she told exciting tales, seldom retraced her
steps, and what's more, never overstayed her welcome.
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