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Prospector, Cowhand, and Sodbuster
Survey of Historic Sites and Buildings


National Park Service THEODORE ROOSEVELT NATIONAL PARK
(formerly National Memorial Park)
North Dakota

Location: Billings County, off U.S. 10 and 85, just north of Medora; address: Medora, N. Dak. 58645.

Roosevelt's part in developing the open range cattle industry of the Northern Plains and his contributions to the conservation of the Nation's resources are memorialized in this vast park. Roosevelt first came to the Dakota Badlands, on the Little Missouri River, in 1883, at the age of 25, to hunt buffalo and other game. Within a few weeks, however, he purchased some 400 cattle and made arrangements to graze them on the Chimney Butte Ranch, owned by two local ranchers, before he returned to the East; the ranch was also known as the Maltese Cross Ranch because of its distinctive brand. The next summer, after Roosevelt's election to the New York State Assembly and the death of his wife and mother, he returned to his property in the West. The following year he stocked the Elkhorn Ranch. Soon he became an influential cattleman, though he had a small number of cattle compared to many ranchers in the area, and was elected to lead the local livestock association. Meantime he continued his study and writing. He wrote much of his Life of Thomas Hart Benton while residing at the Elkhorn Ranch. One of his neighbors was the Marquis de Mores, a French nobleman who founded the town of Medora.

Maltese Cross Cabin
The Maltese Cross Cabin, Theodore Roosevelt's first residence in the Badlands, is now exhibited at Theodore Roosevelt National Park, in North Dakota.

Along with most cattlemen, Roosevelt suffered severe losses in the disastrous winter of 1886-87. Probably 60 percent of his herd perished—and with it most of his large investment. Yet he continued to visit the ranch every few years until 1898, when he sold out just before leaving for Cuba with the Rough Riders.

Years later Roosevelt wrote, "I have always said I never would have been President if it had not been for my experience in North Dakota." Certainly he always regarded his life on the range as an idyllic interlude, a place where "the romance of my life began." He admired the rough virtues and the rugged integrity of the men with whom he rode in the Dakotas, and from them he drew his inspiration for organizing the Rough Riders—the group that made him famous and furthered his political career.

North Dakota Badlands

Established by Congress in 1947, the park consists of about 110 square miles. It is divided into three units: the South Unit, near Medora; the North Unit, near Watford City; and the Elkhorn Ranch site, along the Little Missouri River west of and about midway between the other two units. The Elkhorn Ranch site is accessible only by rough dirt road, and local inquiry should be made before attempting to reach it. Neither the ranch house nor any other original buildings remain at the site today, but a diorama at the Medora visitor center is an accurate reproduction. The site has been excavated and nearly all the original Elkhorn Ranch features have been located.

Motorists entering the South Unit at the Medora entrance should first stop at the visitor center, which features exhibits on the history and natural history of the park. Also located at the Medora entrance is the Maltese Cross cabin, which has been authentically restored and furnished as it was in Roosevelt's day.

The park is open all year but spring, summer, and autumn are the best seasons to visit. Campgrounds and picnic grounds are located in the North and South Units. The badlands landscape in the park has great scenic beauty and is of geologic interest—tablelands, buttes, canyons, and rugged hills. Although the climate is semiarid, much interesting plantlife may be seen. Of special interest among the animal life is a small herd of buffalo that has been introduced in the park.

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http://www.cr.nps.gov/history/online_books/prospector-cowhand-sodbuster/sitea5.htm
Last Updated: 22-May-2005