Chapter 1:
The Genesis of an Idea
CITIZENS OF BABYLON, Greece, and Rome set aside
parks, and the development of formal gardens was revived during the
Renaissance. The idea of preserving tracts of land for recreation and
pleasure gained force in feudal England when the nobility began using
forests as a source of game as well as timber, and later the townspeople
instigated the practice of segregating a section of a township for the
use of all residents in "common." This custom was transported across the
Atlantic by the earliest English colonists, and though surrounded by
forests and unsettled land, they, too, formed their town commons, small
plots of uncultivated land set amid the villages and tilled fields. Such
areas were originally established for common pasturage, but eventually
their recreational values became apparent and many exist today in the
form of city parks.
The early settlers of this country made some attempts
to preserve lands solely for recreation. A few early laws were designed
to prevent the wanton killing of game and the wasteful cutting of
timber, but these were atypical. Before man could convince himself of
the propriety of preserving nature, he had first to change his attitude
toward nature itself. [1] This was
accomplished in part through the efforts of poets, writers, and
artists.
Readers of Coleridge, Southey, and Wordsworth imbibed
their romantic view of nature. Influenced by both the Romantic mood and
the English poets, William Cullen Bryant eulogized the American
landscape and praised nature for its aesthetic, not economic, value. In
1823 the publication of James Fenimore Cooper's The Pioneers gave
the American public a new approach to nature through an unsentimental
yet accurate description of the world of the woods. Cooper made
disparaging remarks about the wasteful ways of the white man, condemned
the wanton destruction of the pigeon, the bass, and the tree, and subtly
warned that some elements of nature should be saved for future
generations lest a desolate landscape be their legacy. Though neither
Bryant nor Cooper directly advocated the setting aside of wilderness
preserves, both influenced public opinion and directed thoughts toward
the household of nature. [2]
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Map of Yellowstone National Park.
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George Catlin, the noted artist, explorer, and
admirer of the Plains Indian, had, after a visit to the Indian country
of the upper Missouri in 1832, written a series of letters describing
what he had seen. In one of these letters, first published in the New
York Daily Commercial Advertiser the following year, Catlin
foresaw the probable extinction of both buffalo and Indian and, alluding
to that area of unsettled land which extended "from the province of
Mexico to Lake Winnepeg," proposed that these regions
might in future be seen, (by some great protecting
policy of government) preserved in their pristine beauty and wilderness,
in a magnificent park, where the world could see for ages to
come, the native Indian in his classic attire, galloping his wild horse,
with sinewy bow, and shield and lance, amid the fleeting herds of elks
and buffaloes. What a beautiful and thrilling specimen for America to
preserve and hold up to the view of her refined citizens and the world,
in future ages! A nation's park, containing man and beast, in all
the wild and freshness of their nature's beauty. [3]
Among other things, Catlin wrote that park land could
be preserved "without detriment to the country" since these areas were
"uniformly sterile, and of no available use to cultivating man." [4] The artist desired "no other monument" to his
memory "than the reputation of having been the founder of such an
institution." Thus, some forty years before Congress was willing to
accept the idea, Catlin advocated the setting aside of land for its
inherent aesthetic values.
Catlin's was not the only voice advocating
preservation. After outlining a philosophy of nature, Ralph Waldo
Emerson recommended that "The interminable forests should become
graceful parks, for use and delight. . . ." Later, Henry David Thoreau
enthralled Americans with his Walden and in "Chesuncook,"
published in the Atlantic Monthly, he questioned:
Why should not we . . . have our national preserves .
. . in which the bear and panther and some even of the hunter race, may
still exist, and not be 'civilized off the face of the earth' . . . for
inspiration and our true re-creation? Or should we, like villains, grub
them all up for poaching on our own national domains? [5]
Artists, also, were showing Americans the glories of
nature in their land. Landscape painting, before 1800, was almost
nonexistent in this country; the majority of practicing artists devoted
themselves almost entirely to historical paintings or to portraits of
the rich and famous. But even as Cooper and Bryant were describing the
great out-of-doors in verse and prose, a new movement was taking shape
in painting. The first exploratory steps were made by Washington
Allston, John Trumbull, and John Vanderlyn, but only after the
successful showing of Thomas Cole's paintings in 1825 did the public
become interested in the paintings of what was later known as the Hudson
River School. Under Cole's leadership the American artist looked to the
great falls of the Niagara, the hills of New England, and eventually to
the majestic mountains of the West for inspiration. Cole, though he had
never seen the Western plains and mountains, realized that "Americans
have a strong desire for excellence . . . a love of nature" and,
recognizing that even then such wilderness was passing away, he called
attention to the "necessity of saving and perpetuating its features."
[6]
Prompted by such writing and painting, townspeople
began to venture forth into the country. Camping parties became
fashionable for the more sturdy; vacations in the newly established
mountain resorts or weekends at the seashore became the vogue. But the
summer migration to the Eastern seaboard and to the cool forests of the
North only moved the congestion of the city to such previously tranquil
areas as Saratoga, White Sulphur Springs, the Adirondacks,
Madison-on-Lakes, Nahant, Newport, Appledore, Mount Desert, and Mount
Holyoke. It may even have seemed to some that there was not enough
country to go around. The completion of the transcontinental railroad in
1869, and the development of other railroad lines west of the
Mississippi River, prompted promoters to extol the vacation attractions
of the Rocky Mountain area. One far-seeing Englishman, commenting on the
Pike's Peak area, thought that "when Colorado becomes a populous state,
the Springs of the Fountaine qui Bouille will constitute its spa . . .
no more glorious summer residence could be imagined." He firmly believed
that "the Coloradoan of the future . . . will have little cause to envy
us Easterners our Saratoga." [7]
On July 3, 1844, an editorial appeared in the New
York Evening Post under the title "A New Park" over the signature
of William Cullen Bryant. Bryant had discovered, during his own quest
for fresh air, that it was no longer possible, in half an hour's walk,
for the city dweller to reach open country. The time was approaching, he
said, when the city would no longer be able to purchase suitable land
for recreation and pleasure, and he advocated the creation of a park
within the city. This editorial set the spark to the movement that was
to end some years later with the creation of Central Park. Enlisting the
aid of Andrew Jackson Downing, the great landscape architect, Bryant
argued his case before the people, and in 1851 an act was passed
providing for the purchase of some of the necessary land. Realization of
the idea was delayed by political bickering, but the appointment of
Frederick Law Olmsted, the well-known landscape architect, as
superintendent of the project, and later as architect-in-chief, brought
the park to completion in 1858. [8]
The transition of the park idea from that of an urban
plot set aside for weary city-dwellers to that of a large area
maintained in a natural setting for the use of all citizens of the
nation was slow in coming. In 1832 an act was passed authorizing the
governor of the Territory of Arkansas to lease salt springs located in
the Territory; it further provided that four sections of land in the
Ouachita Mountains, in which were centered mineral hot springs, "shall
be reserved for the future disposal of the United States." [9] This did not, however, mean that Congress
recognized the scenic or aesthetic values of nature. The springs had
potential commercial value, and at least one bathhouse had been
constructed in the area. Congress simply had responded to the cries of
territorial constituents who wanted the area maintained for free public
use.
The canals and railroads that made summer vacations
at various resort areas feasible were still confined to the East. While
the tourist could journey to the White Mountains or the Eastern seaboard
with fair comfort, he could not travel very far west of the Alleghenies
without discomfort. Many arcadian reports of the Western regions had
filtered back to Eastern readers in the form of travel accounts, books,
lectures, and articles. The Reverend Timothy Flint, in his
Recollections of the Last Ten Years, published in 1826, likened
the Mississippi Valley to the Garden of Eden, while his contemporary
Judge James Hall thought Ohio and the land west was truly the Promised
Land. C. W. Dana, presaging the railroad brochures of a later date and
representing the then planned Pacific Railway, published a handbook
under the title The Garden of the World; or, The Great West, in
an attempt to entice potential immigrants to settle in the area between
the Mississippi River and the Pacific Ocean. [10]
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Mammoth Terraces, Yellowstone Park.
National Park Service.
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But by 1850 many people had returned from the
frontier region bringing tales of discomfort that discouraged less hardy
travelers. Washington Irving's Tour of the Prairies (1835)
described the bleak, far-reaching prairies quite realistically, and
Astoria (1836) declared that the Western region was "vast and
trackless as the ocean . . . the great American desert . . . where no
man permanently abides." In the first edition of Francis Parkman's
Oregon Trail (1849) the plains region was again described as the
great American desert. Government explorers also traversed sections of
the West and brought back descriptions. Lewis and Clark had chronicled
their trip to the Columbia River in 1805-1806, and earlier the report of
Lieutenant Zebulon Montgomery Pike had appeared describing the region
south of the Lewis and Clark route. Pike predicted that the area might
"become in time as celebrated as the sandy deserts of Africa," and the
report of Major Stephen Long in 1820 gave credence to such a prediction.
[11]
The reports of travelers were thus conflicting as to
the true character of the area beyond the Mississippi; government
reports were both verbose and technical, and, while the literary output
whetted the curiosity of those residing in the East, it was perhaps the
painters and photographers who best publicized the region. Among them
were John James Audubon, George Catlin, Karl Bodmer, Alfred Miller, and
Albert Bierstadt. Continuing the tradition pioneered by Cole, Audubon
reproduced in painstaking detail the wildlife of the Western regions,
while Catlin, Miller, Bodmer, and Bierstadt portrayed the scenic
splendor of the West on huge, spectacular canvases. Landscape views were
also reproduced by photography, which had been introduced into this
country in 1839. John Mix Stanley had accompanied as photographer one of
the several government surveys sent out to determine a route for the
Pacific railroad, and John C. Fremont's Utah expedition of 1854 included
the Baltimore painter turned photographer, S. N. Carvalho. [12] Many of the photographs of Western scenes
taken on these early explorations were transposed into lithographs or
woodcuts and given wide circulation in the East. [13]
Such reports, verbal and pictorial, may have
stimulated public interest. Ultimately, Congress took the next step
toward conservation when in 1864 it granted to California a portion of
the public domain that included the Yosemite Valley and the Mariposa Big
Tree Grove.
Four years after gold was found at Sutter's mill in
California, Eastern newspaper readers learned of another discovery in
that far-off land. In the spring of 1852 a hunter stumbled into an area
forested with giant trees (Sequoia gigantea) and the reports of
this discovery spread rapidly. With an eye to possible profit, two men
stripped the bark from one of the giants and shipped the specimen East
for exhibition. After touring the Eastern seaboard cities, the
entrepreneurs set up their exhibit at the Crystal Palace in London,
where wary Londoners soon branded the exhibit as a "humbug," refusing to
believe that the bark could have come from one tree. But while the
exhibition was a financial failure, it raised valuable voices of
protest. One irate Californian sent a letter to Gleason's
Pictorial protesting the desecration of "such a splendid tree,"
stating that while in Europe such wonders of nature would be protected
by law, "in this money-making-go-ahead community, thirty or forty
thousand dollars are paid for it and the purchaser chops it down and
ships it off for a shilling show." The writer hoped that "no one will
conceive the idea of purchasing Niagara Falls with the same purpose."
[14] James Russell Lowell added his protest
against the destruction of the big tree when, in his article "Humanity
to Trees," he proposed the establishment of a "society for the
prevention of cruelty to trees." The danger to these unique giants of
the California forests was underlined by an article in Harper's
Weekly which claimed that the tree stripped of its bark was rapidly
decaying, having been skinned "with as much neatness and industry as a
troup of jackals would display in clearing the bones of a dead lion."
[15]
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President Taft's party at Wawona Tree,
Mariposa Grove, 1909. This tree toppled in 1969. National Park
Service.
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While the mutilation of the big trees in California
had gained widespread publicity in the East, the discovery of the
Yosemite Valley passed almost unnoticed. As early as 1827 Jedediah
Strong Smith had led a party of fur trappers from Salt Lake through the
Sierra Nevadas to the Pacific. In 1833 Joseph Reddeford Walker, a
trapper and explorer in the company of Captain B. L. E. Bonneville, led
a similar band of adventurers directly into the area that was to become
the Yosemite National Park. Trails were blazed, and some knowledge of
the California region was gained, but little publicity was given to
these early discoveries. [16] In 1851 an
expeditionary force, led by James D. Savage, was sent to discipline the
various tribes of Indians who roamed the California mountains. During
the campaign Savage's battalion explored the entire course of the
Yosemite Valley, and while they failed to subdue the "Yosemitos," the
volunteers agreed to name the Valley after the tribe of Indians for
which they searched. [17] The scenic wonders
of the Valley were described in the Daily Alta California, but
the story was not picked up by Eastern publications. [18]
Eastern readers became aware of the Valley's
existence in 1856, however, when an article from the California
Christian Advocate was reproduced in the Country Gentleman.
It declared that the "Yo-hem-i-ty" valley was "the most striking natural
wonder on the Pacific" and predicted that this region would, in the
future, become a great resort area. The first sketches of the Valley, by
Thomas A. Ayres, were distributed in lithograph form throughout the
East, and Horace Greeley termed the Valley the "most unique and majestic
of nature's marvels." [19] The first
photographs of the Valley were taken in 1859 by C. L. Weed and R. H.
Vance, [20] and four years later C. E.
Watkins' photographs were exhibited at Goupil's art gallery in New York.
Residents of the Eastern seaboard were further made aware of the Western
splendors when, in a series of eight articles published by the Boston
Evening Transcript, the writer Starr King described the scenery of
the Valley in glowing terms. [21]
Public interest in the West, and particularly in the
Yosemite Valley and the California big trees, was thus aroused, but the
trip to California from the East was still a hazardous and expensive
undertaking. The residents of California, however, foresaw that the
Yosemite Valley might become for the West what the great falls of the
Niagara were for the East, and some realized that private interests
would soon attempt to capitalize upon its natural wonders. Experienced
leadership was needed to preserve the scenic grandeur of the mountain
fastness, and fortunately such leadership was available.
At the close of the Mexican War, Colonel John C.
Fremont had purchased the Rancho Las Mariposas, a vast estate of some
44,000 acres lying south and east of the Yosemite Valley. With the
discovery of gold north of his estate in 1848, Fremont extended his
rancho to include the mining claims, and invested money in a vain
attempt to develop the mines. Bankruptcy followed and the Fremont Grant
was purchased by a group of Wall Street financiers at a sheriff's sale.
The nonresident owners employed the architect-in-chief of the newly
formed New York City Central Park, Frederick Law Olmsted, to superintend
their investment. Olmsted arrived in California in the fall of 1863 to
assume his new duties and remained until 1865. During this time he was
the leader of a small group of men who instigated and pushed to
fulfillment the movement to reserve the Yosemite Valley and to preserve
the giant trees from destruction. [22]
On March 28, 1864, the California Senator, John
Conness, introduced into the Senate a bill providing that the Yosemite
Valley and the area embracing the "Mariposa Big Tree Grove" be granted
to the state of California, on condition that the area "shall be held
for public use, resort, and recreation . . . for all time." The area was
to be managed by the governor of the state and eight commissioners
appointed by him, none of whom were to receive compensation for their
services. [23] In this novel legislation an
idea, suggested by Catlin, advocated by Thoreau and others, was
acknowledged.
Olmsted, soon after his arrival in California, had
visited the Yosemite Valley in the autumn, when the streams were reduced
to a mere trickle, the great falls dried up, and the vegetation sparse
and brown. Yet he was overcome by the "union of the deepest sublimity
with the deepest beauty" and he thought "Yo Semite the greatest glory of
nature." [24] He was so convinced of the
necessity of preserving the unique Valley that he immediately set about
persuading others to join him in a crusade to have the area removed from
the public domain. Though opposed by some, he managed to enlist the aid
of the San Francisco physician Professor John F. Morse and the
California representative of the Central American Steamship Transit
Company of New York, Israel Ward Raymond. It was Raymond who, on
February 20, 1864, wrote to Senator Conness, enclosing some "views" of
the Valley and stating that he thought "it important to obtain the
proprietorship soon, to prevent occupation and especially to preserve
the trees in the valley from destruction," and advocated the passage of
the necessary legislation by Congress. [25]
Senator Conness forwarded the letter to the General Land Office and
requested that a bill incorporating Raymond's suggestions be prepared
and returned to the Senate. [26]
The resulting bill was introduced by Conness and
reported by the Senate Committee on Public Lands without amendment on
May 17, 1864. Conness reassured the Senate that the lands to be granted
were "for all public purposes worthless" and that the entire grant was
"a matter involving no appropriation whatever." Senator Foster of
Connecticut wondered if the state of California would accept the grant,
but Conness replied that the application came from gentlemen of fortune,
taste, and refinement in California, that the Commissioner of the
General Land Office had taken a great interest in the preservation of
the Valley and the Big Tree Grove, and that he, Conness, could speak for
the state. In the course of debate strong argument was made for the
preservation of the big trees by recalling the bark stripping episode
some twelve years before. The purpose of the bill was stated to be the
preservation of these trees from further "devastation and injury." The
preservation of the Yosemite Valley was not mentioned and it appears to
have had importance only in its relation to the sequoias. The bill was
read a third time and passed by the Senate. [27]
The bill appeared upon the floor of the House with
the unanimous approval of the Committee on Public Lands. Again, the
Valley received little attention; replying to a query, the Chairman of
the Public Lands Committee said, "Well, it is about a mile [long]; it is
a gorge in the mountains." One Representative objected that there was no
specific stipulation in the bill concerning preservation of the giant
trees, but Representative Cole of California erroneously assured him
that the state would "take good care of these trees. The measure passed
the House on June 29, 1864, and was signed by President Lincoln the
following day. [28]
The areas thus set aside were to be administered by
the state of California; Congress and the Federal Government accepted no
responsibility for their preservation or improvement. The Act provided
that portions of the granted lands could be leased for a maximum of ten
years, the resulting revenue to be expended in the building of roads to,
and the preservation and improvement of, the grants. [29] Since the 1864 Legislature of California
had already adjourned, it was not until some three months later that
Governor F. F. Low proclaimed the grant to the state and appointed
himself and eight others as a Board to manage the grant. Frederick Law
Olmsted became chairman of the Board and immediately began organizing
the new "parks." [30] But the State's
attempt to preserve and protect the park areas ended, eventually, in
abject failure, and when, in 1890, National Parks were formed in and
around the grants, civilian control and mismanagement gave way to
military control. Later the grants themselves were ceded back to the
national government and placed under military supervision.
The passage of the Act of 1864, granting to
California the two tracts of land, did not establish a "national park."
No national laws were enacted for administration of the areas, and,
after the passage of the Act, Congress seems to have dismissed the areas
from its collective mind. The significance of the legislation lies in
the fact that it provided for land to be reserved for strictly
nonutilitarian purposes, thus establishing a precedent for the later
reservation of the Yellowstone region. It is probable that if Congress
had not then been preoccupied with the Civil War the opponents of the
bill would have combined to defeat its passage. The public mind was not
yet directed toward the preservation and conservation of the aesthetic
elements of nature.
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