Chapter Six:
GUARDIANS OF GLACIER (continued)
While snow removal, road openings, and avalanches
received much public attention, Park Service officials in Glacier and
throughout the nation revealed plans to deal with the demands of
increased visitation. Travel trends to Glacier reflected the nationwide
enthusiasm for national parks, and in Glacier visitation increased from
200,000 people in 1946 to 600,000 by 1954. The expectations that park
roads and facilities would soon be entirely unable to accommodate such
increasing demands brought a comprehensive ten-year plan for developing
additional facilities and roads in the national parks. It was called
"MISSION 66" after its projected completion date, 1966.
|
Antiquated public facilities, which
today might be considered rustic, plagued the minds of Park Service
planners. More modern facilities, including visitor centers, rest rooms,
gas stations, and coffee shops, began to dot the park landscape in
response to the growth of visitation during the 1950s and as a result of
MISSION 66. (Courtesy of Glacier National Park Historical
Collections)
|
Faced with the realities and problems of mass
visitation, Park Service Director Conrad Wirth felt that "planning
for today and the immediate future, and construction on that basis, can
lead only to future embarrassment and to renewed demands for more of
everything." Thus, in Glacier and throughout the rest of the
National Park System, "reliable plans" were to be developed on the basis
of a "10 year forecast," so that by 1966, when all construction would be
complete and plans fulfilled, "travel development for visitor needs, and
park protection [will be] brought into proper harmony."
Superintendent J. W. Emmert and his staff developed
plans for Glacier and sent them on to regional and national offices for
approval, and, when Mission 66 construction began in the Park in 1958,
it was called the "largest and most varied construction program in the
Park's history." One of the Congressional supporters of this program,
Representative (later Senator) Lee Metcalf noted that excessive amounts
of money had been previously spent on road construction leading to
Glacier and for driving within it. Metcalf concluded: "The result is
that Americans have better, safer, speedier access to deteriorating
facilities."
"Varied" was the perfect word to describe the myriad
of projects which Mission 66 covered in Glacier. A new administration
building was constructed; housing was built for Park Service employees;
campgrounds were expanded and new fireplaces, picnic tables, and comfort
stations added. Older projects were complemented with Going-to-the-Sun
Road sprouting new parking areas, turnouts, and picnic areas as well as
two extensive visitor centers, one at St. Mary and the other at Logan
Pass. The new road toward the North Fork and emerging at Camas Creek was
also completed as part of this comprehensive plan. While the bulk of
Mission 66 activity in Glacier was directed toward "reconstruction and
renovation" of some of the "dilapidated" roadside exhibits, interpretive
signs, sewage and water systems, buildings, bridges, boat docks, trails
and roadways, the newer projects like a ranger station at Waterton Lake
and new visitor centers received the most attention. Glacier's
administrators felt a responsibility to provide for "access and other
reasonable needs of visitors" but alleged that "most of the park is
relatively undisturbed by man-made intrusions and should remain that
way." While preservation was an announced guideline during all of this
activity, the twenty-three million dollar construction program of
Mission 66even though it was primarily confined to previously
developed areastended to overshadow preservation efforts.
Attention directed toward the ecology of Glacier Park
did increase as greater scientific research and observation yielded some
new evidence. Elk herds on Glacier's east side were found to be
overpopulating their range because of past protection, thus during the
1950s a program of "constant harassment" was begun to force the elk to
"drift out" of the park onto the Blackfeet Reservation where the Indians
could harvest the surplus animals. Superintendent Emmert noted that in
1956 alone over one hundred animals "drifted out" of the park.
While this kind of active "management" may have been
exceptional, Park Service specialists began to watch the elk herds at
Belly River, St. Mary, and along the Middle Fork with an eye toward
preventing overpopulation, overgrazing, and possible starvation because
their natural predators had vanished. Similarly, by 1963, a new ranger
position was introduced to devote greater attention to the problems of
wildlife and fisheries management. As a result, range studies, animal
census reports, and more intensified biological research were to be
conducted to give scientific input for park decision making. Numerous
other forestry programs of preceding years added to the "preservation"
aspects of Glacier's management as Mission 66 continued.
While Mission 66 silenced criticism that the park was
"underdeveloped" or had "dilapidated" facilities, proponents of the
"unimpaired status" of national parks began to argue that this program
attracted people to the parks for the wrong kind of reasons. Devereaux
Butcher wrote that through Mission 66 "the taxpayer unknowingly is
taking part in the impairment of these masterpieces of nature's
handiwork. To popularize and commercialize the national parks is to
cheapen them and reduce them to the level of ordinary playgrounds."
Another preservationist, Frank A. Tinker, blamed increased development
in the national parks on the "newly-liberated citizen" who "comes to the
woods not from any compulsion or love or interest, but from idleness or
vapid curiosity; not for inspiration but for thrills." He added that the
"culprits" responsible for the "abuse of America's outdoors," were the
"pampered, flattered, 'normal' Americans who drive afield in their
second mortgaged car to 'damn well get what's coming to them.'" Tinker
went on to criticize Mission 66 for blasting roads through the
"pitifully few remaining wilderness areas" and for increasing facilities
in these areas.
As early as 1957, Sierra Club spokesman David R.
Brower warned that expanding population and greater public use of the
national parks would endanger the esthetic values of their wilderness
environment. He argued that "carrying capacities" should be established
and that other areas aside from national parks should be developed to
provide recreation for those who wanted to be "entertained in comfort."
Similarly, Kirke Wilson added that Mission 66 projects showed that "the
flood of visitors forces the Park Service into projects which are
incongruous with the setting and incompatible with park purpose." Other
critics argued that Glacier and other parks should not be "urbanized"
and should be spared "from the vandalism of improvement." While these
critics did not stop the Mission 66 projects in Glacier, the idealism of
the preservationists produced reverberations which would be heard for
years to come.
|
Early campers were so few in number that
their, impact was insignificant. But the addition of Going-to-the-Sun
Road brought increasing numbers of automobiles and visitors seeking a
pleasant yet inexpensive holiday. Demands of the camping public began to
include pull-through campsites for trailers, showers, electrical
hookups, sewage disposal systems, and other amenities. The
self-sufficient camper of the 1920s became more sophisticated and
demanding by the 1950s. (Courtesy of Glacier National Park Historical
Collections)
|
But the "improvements" of the Mission 66 program and
the criticism which followed it were not the only problems faced in the
1960s. Several natural calamities combined to produce added problems. In
1964, an unseasonally cool spring gave snow almost no chance to melt
gradually. As a result, in early June, several days of continuous warm
weather and rain unleashed a deluge of water which poured down the
mountain streams, overfilled the lakes, and flooded nearby valleys. Most
of northwestern Montana was affected by this flooding, with numerous
lives lost and untold damage done. In Glacier, the flooding waters tore
out sections of road, ripped numerous bridges away, devastated miles of
back-country trails, ruined the old Waterton Ranger Station, inundated
sections of several hotels, and collapsed the bridge at West Glacier,
nearly isolating the park headquarters. The efforts of Superintendent
Keith Neilson and his staff enabled the park to be reopened in record
time. The flood delayed most of the Mission 66 work projects and meant
that many additional "emergency" work programs were initiated to rebuild
and replace damaged facilities. As a result of the 1964 flood, most park
roads and buildings underwent repair, but some back-country bridges and
large sections of trail were simply abandoned as too expensive to
restore. This natural disaster eroded the "improvements" of Mission 66
and made continual reconstruction projects mandatory for the rest of the
decade.
|
Floods have caused costly damage to
roads, trails, hotels, and other developments in recent times. An
abundance of late-melting snow coupled with several days of warm rain
has caused severe spring flooding, particularly in 1958, 1964, and 1975.
The flood of 1964 ruined miles of back-country trails, ripped away
sections of road, tore away bridges, and caused the deletion of many of
the Mission 66 improvements. (Courtesy of Glacier National Park
Historical Collections)
|
Only three years later, in 1967, two additional
natural forces combined to upset park management. Following a very dry
summer, a highly charged electrical storm passed over Glacier's forests
on the evening of August 11, igniting some twenty fires. Since Park
Service manpower was soon depleted, smokejumpers from Missoula,
firefighters from around Montana, and finally fire crews from all over
the West (including Alaska) were dispatched to control these fires. A
total of three thousand five hundred firefighters worked in August and
September to control these fires. The Glacier Wall Fire, located along
Going-to-the-Sun Road, gave fire crews particular problems because of
the precipitous cliffs and because of a sixty-mile-an-hour wind which
drove the fire across both McDonald Creek and Going-to-the-Sun Road and
up along the Garden Wall.
As these forest fires occupied park crews, other more
tragic events occurred. In two separate incidents in the early morning
of August 13, two grizzly bears attacked two separate groups of
back-country campers. At the Trout Lake campsite and at Granite Park
campground near Granite Park Chalet, separated by some ten miles of
mountains and valleys, two girls, Michele Koons and Julie Helgeson,
along with Helgeson's companion, Roy Ducat, were mauled by the
grizzlies. Both of the girls died that same morning. Certainly these
were not the first encounters between bears and visitors in Glacier
Park, but the maulings produced the first recorded deaths in park
history caused by this unpredictable animal. The idea that two deaths
occurred in a single night compounded by the fact that both were
attractive, college-aged women, drew national attention toward this
event. Speculation that "thunderstorms may have goaded the animals into
a killing rage" or that the bears were drunk on overripe huckleberries
was countered by more rational minds suggesting that the victims did not
follow elementary back-country procedures and invited disaster. Again,
the critics of the Park Service claimed that shoddy back-country
management allowed these bears to travel in and out of the campsites and
chalet areas to feed on garbage provided by campers and chalet
employees. And critics felt that the park officials who had been aware
of grizzlies frequenting these areas had done nothing to eliminate their
food sources or to discourage people from visiting those areas. One
local writer added that the two girls' deaths were unnecessary since
they were "sacrificed to the stupid policy 'Let Nature take its course'
followed by the bureaucratic running of our local Glacier Park."
|
Feeding bears at garbage dumps was
common in Glacier and in other national parks for many years. Upon
realizing that allowing bears to depend on unnatural food sources might
provoke bear human confrontations, dumps were eliminated, back-country
users were alerted to pack items out that were packed in, and greater
attention was given to actively eliminating problems of bear and human
contact. (Courtesy of Glacier National Park Historical
Collections)
|
Thus, fires and bears brought the Park Service in
Glacier under more severe criticism than ever before. Superintendent
Keith Neilson felt that "public relations and press coverage" served to
animate even the most mundane issue which may have been originally
"erroneous and misleading." Even though public relations were
undoubtedly a problem, changes in management began to occur with
emphasis placed upon eliminating bear encounters in particular. For
example, trail crews were directed to clean up garbage around
back-country campsites; chalet crews were directed to stop dumping
garbage which might attract bears; hikers were told to pack out whatever
they packed in; and directions for safe travel and proper use of the
back country were placed at every trail head. And later, bear locations
were noted after observations occurred, "troublesome" bears were
transported away from developed areas, people were warned of bear
activity in particular areas, and, finally, some trails and areas were
entirely closed to the public if bears were present.
Thus, by the late 1960s. these events turned the
public eye toward Glacier as never before. One particular issue kept the
public attention through the later 1960s and into the following decade.
Through the efforts of national preservationist groups, the Wilderness
Act was passed by Congress in 1964, making it mandatory for park
officials to delineate those areas of their parks which would be
classified as wilderness. These "wilderness" sections of the national
parks would reaffirm the "preservation" objective of the parks and would
insure their protection by law from any additional "development." This
wilderness could not contain any "permanent improvements or human
habitation."
Park administrators began to plan which areas of
Glacier should be designated as "wilderness" and which areas should
retain "development" such as roads, hotels, motorized vehicles, and the
like. The solution in Glacier seemed to be the establishment of
"corridors" of developmentsuch as that along Going-to-the-Sun
Roador "enclaves" of development such as the campground at Bowman
Lake or Sperry Chalet. The term "wilderness threshold" was used to
describe developed areas. At public hearings environmentally minded
citizens overwhelmingly argued for the inclusion of more of Glacier's
area into the protected "wilderness" status. And under pressure from
Congressional wilderness advocates, like Senator Frank Church, the park
planners went back to their drawing boards to erase the enclaves and
corridors and then resubmitted a proposal with a maximum of Glacier's
back country in the wilderness classification. Areas of necessary
development, such as fire lookouts, snowshoe cabins, or Going-to-the-Sun
Road, would remain, but their extension was to be prohibited by law, and
the Wilderness Act evolved into a major preservation program for
Glacier. Even though Park Service officials argued that their attention
was directed toward the letter of the law, that the Wilderness Act was
not explicit, and that the concept of "wilderness" and its definition
was slow in evolving, their leadership in preservation appeared stalled
as others advocated the preservation idealism for Glacier Park.
Beginning in 1969, Glacier National Park became the
center of environmental controversy in Montana. Early in March, a
Hungry Horse News headline read: "U.S. Facility Pollutes Center
of Glacier." This revelation that sewage from the Logan Pass Visitor
Center escaped treatment and flowed directly into Reynolds Creek and
then into scenic St. Mary Lake shocked many citizens. In June,
Superintendent Neilson's transfer was announced and a Park Service
"troubleshooter" William J. Briggle became the new superintendent.
Briggle, an experienced Recreation Area superintendent and a forceful
individual, was told to clear up the problems of bears, pollution, and
charges of mismanagement which had hit the headlines and plagued the
Park Service in previous years.
|
The construction of a boardwalk on Logan
Pass in 1971 developed into a public controversy regarding its
unsightliness or acceptability in the alpine area near, the visitor
center. Termed "an experiment" by some and "an atrocity" by others, the
boardwalk symbolized a growing appreciation for the natural condition of
Glacier and the sensitive nature of any additional "improvements" within
the national park. (Courtesy of Dr. James R. Habeck)
|
But Briggle came under the now-sharpened eye of an
environmentally awakened public. When he announced in December that
Glacier lay dormant for nearly eight months of the year and that "the
potential for development is tremendous, but there is no organized
effort at the moment to do it," some environmentalists immediately took
issue. Jim Rice of Whitefish, Montana, responded: "I'd like to remind
Supt. Briggle that he is bound by law to protect Glacier and all that is
enclosed by its boundaries. I for one frankly hope he devotes the bulk
of his time to that goal, rather than promotion." Another Glacier
Park-watcher, Dr. James R. Habeck of the University of Montana, an
author of fifteen scientific studies on Glacier, concurred with Rice
and, by 1971, pointed out that Briggle was managing Glacier as a
recreation area rather than a natural area and he felt that the
Superintendent had trouble defining what was "appropriate use" in
Glacier. Habeck charged that allowing water skiing, promoting
snowmobiling, constructing a boardwalk at Logan Pass, all constituted
"the introduction of undue artificiality in a natural setting."
Thus, during the early 1970s, charges and
countercharges filled the Montana newspapers, spotlighting the problems
of Glacier. Superintendent Briggle and his defenders argued that his
administration was not guilty of such environmental "sins" as the
problems of sewage on Logan Pass, but that they had solved the problem
by transporting it out of the area by tank truck. Answering charges that
the "creosoted [sic] boardwalk" was unsightly and an atrocity,
Superintendent Briggle's 1972 annual report termed it an "experimental
section of wooden walkway" and the following year noted that any
"adverse effect" was "reversed and eliminated by replacing treated wood
with untreated wood." Other defenders of Superintendent Briggle felt
that his implementation of a stricter bear management plan brought a
cleaner back country in Glacier and his attention to fluoride-damaged
vegetation in Glacier brought investigations and public disapproval of a
nearby polluting aluminum reduction plant.
William C. Everhart, author of The National Park
Service, has written: "The national parks arouse powerful
concerns and deep commitments from many people who are pledged to their
protection." Glacier Park was no exception. In the late 1960s and
early 1970s, Glacier National Park experienced the zenith of its
historical problem: how to achieve a balance between "resource
protection and public utilization." Many of America's other national
parks experienced similar controversies regarding building programs,
proper use, or environmental degradation which potentially affected the
enjoyment of the natural area. Everhart noted: "No facility for
public use, no policy of resource management, no proposal of any kind
has been advanced but that park people have pondered and
examinedand arguedjust how best to respect the demanding
requirements of preservation and use. The issue is never clear
cut."
Similarly, in Glacier, the issues were never clear
cut. Environmentalists argued that promoting tourism or enacting
environmental "atrocities" within Glacier could not be tolerated.
Decisions made by Superintendents Neilson and Briggle received greater
public scrutiny than any others in Glacier's history. A general concern
for Glacier's future became the main issue.
|
During the 1970s, Glacier and its
environs were overwhelmed by proposals for extensive natural resource
use. The idea of damming the North Fork of the Flathead continued;
clear-cutting forested private land within the park or in the adjacent
national forests occurred; allowing gas leasing or coal mining in areas
near Glacier loomed as a possibility; and adverse effects from grazing
trespass could be found on Glacier's east side. The threats to Glacier
in the 1970s were not unlike those beforesince they were based
primarily upon economic expediencybut their damaging visual impact
or polluting effects could be more severe than any experienced before.
(Courtesy of C. W. Buchholtz)
|
Eventually, the more controversial aspects of
Glacier's management gave way to concrete programs not only to improve
pollution problems but also to improve its wilderness or back-country
use. In addition, plans were made to study the impact of wildfire upon
the ecosystem and to give greater attention to specific problems such as
bear management, law enforcement, and cattle trespass on Glacier's east
side. The potential development of mineral and industrial resources near
the North Fork of the Flathead River caused substantial concern as did
problems of use along the mutual boundary between Glacier and the
Blackfeet Indian Reservation. These and other problems continued to
confront the park officials and public alike.
The value of Glacier as a preserve was shown on
September 17, 1974, when the United Nations selected the park as one of
its "World Biosphere Reserves." As a World Biosphere Reserve it was
designated as an area worthy to be guarded for future ecological
research, as a natural ecosystem for comparison with modified areas, and
possibly for the future Global Environmental Monitoring system.
By the mid-1970s, nearly a million and a half
visitors annually entered Glacier, with most arriving by automobile
during June, July, and August. It was estimated that nearly one hundred
thousand of these attended a lecture, a campfire talk, or some other
naturalist-conducted program. Those visitors who desired to hike or camp
in Glacier's back country found their movements restricted by "carrying
capacities" which determined when a campground was filled. The
automobile tourist could still find lodging at the historic hotels. The
only major restriction to the motorist was the size or length of his
vehicle, which determined whether he could journey across the narrow
Going-to-the-Sun Road. Nearly a quarter of a million visitors used the
various campgrounds, with some facing overcrowded conditions during the
month of July. Private lands in Glacier generally escaped the visitor's
eye since less than one thousand acres remained in private hands.
Visitors still relied on the major concessionaires in the park for
services like transportation, food, and lodging, but only four companies
remained: Glacier Park, Incorporated which took over the Great Northern
hotels and transportation in 1961; Belton Chalets, Inc. which ran the
Granite Park and Sperry Chalets; Glacier Park Boat Company provided
water transportation; and Rocky Mountain Outfitters, Inc. continued to
provide the historic saddle horse for visitors in Glacier.
The average visitor would drive through Glacier in
less than half a day, and many would stop at the Visitor Center at Logan
Pass. Aside from using the "controversial" rest rooms and boardwalk,
Glacier's visitors could also chat with an informative park naturalist
or take a self-guiding nature trail. While the average visitor may never
have heard of Mission 66 or any of the park's environmental
controversies, he could be secure in thinking that Reynolds Creek
remained unpolluted. Even if he picked up a copy of the Hungry Horse
News and read about the lack of progress on the Wilderness Act or of
problems with bears, the concept of Glacier as a unique scenic
attraction would still be etched upon his memory. Thus, the
controversies over use and preservation, over the plans, policies, and
programs of the National Park Service guardians, as well as among the
people of Glacier's past, had only as much impact as perceived by the
present visitor to the park and, most importantly, as Glacier's
"unimpaired conditions" are examined by future generations.
|