Chapter Six:
GUARDIANS OF GLACIER
No doubt we will make a few mistakes, but I hope
that if we are wrong it is because we came down a little too strong on
the side of preservation.
National Park Service Director Gary E. Everhardt,
March 1975
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Watching for another springtime
avalanche on Going-to-the-Sun Road, a sentinel stands ready to warn
rescue workers as they attempt to uncover four bodies of a road-clearing
crew in 1953. (Courtesy of Glacier National Park Historical
Collections)
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In September of 1971, fourteen Park Service trail
crewmen set aside their tools, picked up their pens, and initiated a
protest concerning the construction of a boardwalk on a trail near the
Logan Pass Visitor Center. They considered the walkway of chemically
treated lumber to be an environmental "atrocity." Their protest letter
was published in the local newspaper, and the following workday these
seasonal employees were "terminated" due to "weather conditions" and
"lack of supplies and materials to continue the job." Responding to the
public fury which followed the trail crew dismissal, Superintendent
William J. Briggle substantiated his administrative purpose, remained
critical of the recalcitrant employees' methods, but finally stated that
"these men will be considered for re-employment next summer."
The actions of park employees who had been hired to
carry out construction and the park administrators who initiated the
controversial project stemmed from the same objective: the ideal of
protecting and preserving Glacier National Park. To the trail crew, it
seemed like an "atrocity" to add a huge wooden boardwalk through a
practically virgin area. To park planners, the need to limit damage from
an estimated four hundred hikers per hour through the area during the
summer months seemed to warrant this construction. Both administrators
and employees expressed a concern for the preservation of Glacier's
wilderness characteristics, but they disagreed over the method of
achieving that goal.
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By the late 1930s and early 1940s, the
need for modern facilities began to be fulfilled. Motels, stores, and
restaurants, like those at Swiftcurrent and Rising Sun, began to replace
the colorful but deteriorating chalets. (Courtesy of Glacier National
Park Historical Collections)
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For the first time in Glacier's history, Park Service
employees actively protested and placed their ideals over their personal
welfare to publicize what they considered an extraneous and unsightly
project. No one had earlier protested when Many Glacier Hotel was built;
no one blocked the construction of Going-to-the-Sun Road; the CCC boys
gladly cut acres of Glacier's fire-killed trees. What had led to this
attitude of environmental idealism and concern for Glacier's wilderness
in the 1970s which appeared to be more intense than ever before? Would
the idealism of an "environmental conscience" prevail or would the
historic attitude that national parks could be "all things to all
people" continue in Glacier? Part of the answer may be found in the
three decades of activity following World War II.
The decade of the forties began with an upswing in
visitation to Glacier and a corresponding addition of "multiple use"
facilities at Rose Creek (now Rising Sun) and Swiftcurrent. Any
expectation that these facilities were excessive seemed to be negated.
Superintendent Donald Libby felt that any and all Park Service proposals
and programs "are in the public interest and are able to undergo public
examination because of the beneficial understanding and support which
will result."
By 1940, expansion was also proposed for several of
the park campgrounds, with electrical hookups to be provided for the
newest innovation in camping trailers. Regarding one of these expansion
proposals, several rangers advised the superintendent that Two Medicine
"should never have been opened to camping in the first place" while
arguing that its fragile vegetation and the constant threat of forest
fires rendered the site unsuitable. The electrical installation idea was
discarded as too "intrusive," but campground expansion at Two Medicine
and elsewhere proceeded in accord with growing public demand.
However, the onset of World War II curtailed the
influx of visitors to the park. Many of the rangers took leave to enter
the Armed Forces and the Park Service kept only the most essential
entrance and ranger stations open by using a reduced staff. A small
contingent of conscientious objectors supplemented the park work forces
during these years. And visitation dropped during the war years from the
180,000 of 1941 to a virtual standstill in 1943 of just over 23,000
people. By 1943, most of the facilities catering to the motoring public
were shut down; the Great Northern Empire Builder no longer stopped at
East Glacier Park or West Glacier because of war shipping priorities;
bus transportation was temporarily terminated; and George Noffsinger's
Saddle Horse Company moved to end its contract. In 1944, visitation
increased slightly but the war still commanded public attention and park
facilities stood idle, with neither the Park Service nor the Great
Northern encouraging people to vacation in Glacier. Historian Michael
Ober reported that during the entire 1944 season, only two hikers sought
shelter at Lake McDonald Lodge. This lack of use during four full
seasons made the revaluation of facilities necessary. By 1944, the park
officials agreed that the old St. Mary Chalets at the foot of St. Mary
Lake were no longer necessary and they were destroyed. Similarly, by
1946, the chalets at Cut Bank and at Sun Point were regarded as "beyond
repair" and an "eyesore" and plans were made to destroy both facilities.
By 1949, their destruction was complete and the areas were "returned to
a natural setting."
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World War II held visitation to Glacier
at its lowest level since 1922, but once the war was over the motoring
public rediscovered Glacier. By the mid-1950s, more accommodations for
visitors were needed. Bicycling and hiking became popular ways to see
the park, gradually replacing horse riding. (Courtesy of Glacier
National Park Historical Collections)
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But this wartime inactivity contrasted sharply with
the expanding visitation in the decade which followed the war. During
1947, visitation topped 300,000, and the pressure on increased park use
began to disturb park officials. While the Hotel Company finally began
to show profits, to report filled and even over-flowing facilities, park
officials began to realize that the motoring public needed more
accommodations such as picnic areas, campgrounds, hotels, stores, or
motels. Superintendent Libby had foreseen the postwar demands and, in
1944, warned: "this Service will inevitably have to face the impact
of visitor usage which will demand many other services and facilities,
and concerning which this Service should crystalize its position and be
abreast of the problems rather than attempt to solve individually
pressure demands as they occur."
But pressure for the most adverse use came from an
unsuspected quarterthe Federal Government. As early as 1943, the
Army Corps of Engineers announced plans for the construction of the
Glacier View Dam. This dam was to be located on the North Fork of the
Flathead River and was proposed to complement the future Hungry Horse
Dam on the Flathead River's South Fork. A major controversy began when
the Corps' engineers introduced plans showing a proposed reservoir with a
potential of flooding some twenty thousand acres of Glacier National
Park. Some of the North Fork meadowland including Lone Pine and Round
Prairies, private ranches, campgrounds, ranger stations, and the site of
Polebridge store (just across the North Fork from the Polebridge Ranger
Station), all would have been inundated. Further, the level of Logging
Lake would have been raised some fifty feet and the entire Lower Camas
Creek drainage would have been obliterated.
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Glacier View Dam area
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Beginning with the public disclosure of the plans and
at the public hearings in 1948 and 1949, the Park Service officials
confronted the Army Corps with an unalterable position opposing the dam
construction. Superintendent J. W. Emmert argued that the public land of
the park was "being used for the highest possible benefits to the
public" and he would "object to any proposed extraneous development for
purposes that would modify its primitive character." He added that the
creation of a "fluctuating artifical body of water" would change the
"wilderness character" of the area and be "detrimental to its cultural
and inspirational values."
Montana's Senator Mike Mansfield advocated the dam
because it "would not disturb the economy but add to it," and he was
joined by citizens' groups from nearby Martin City and the Flathead
Valley. These local "boosters," labor unions, flood control advocates,
and electric company backers, all felt the project to be of great
economic importance for the development of the region.
But Superintendent Emmert's fight for preservation
gained a much wider support. Local residents from West Glacier and Lake
McDonald (including the influential former Senator Burton K. Wheeler) as
well as private landowners and ranchers in the North Fork region, voiced
united opposition to the project. Senator Wheeler wrote: "I hope that
the Park Service and the Interior Department will do everything they
possibly can to prevent this dam from being built." One of forty
landowners writing letters to protest the dam added: "To seriously
curtail one of the few great recreational areas at a time when
expansion, rather than decrease is needed, seems tragic." This local
and Park Service opposition generated additional opposition to the dam.
Both the Glacier Park Hotel and Transport Companies joined the various
chambers of commerce in Montana opposing the Corps's proposal.
Similarly, national conservation organizations like the Sierra Club, the
National Audubon Society, the Society of American Foresters, and many
others protested this "unwarranted invasion of Glacier National
Park."
The Army Corps of Engineers finally accepted the
verdict against the Glacier View Dam site but continued to advocate
other North Fork sites which would inundate less park land. Park Service
officials kept a fearful eye toward the area and finally planned for
greater "recreational" use of that wilderness area by building the
"Camas Creek Road" to the North Fork River along the Apgar Mountains and
by proposing several picnic areas and campgrounds in the region. This
development, which some critics regarded as a "useless" highway, served
as evidence of recreational intentions in the disputed area. Ironically,
in 1967, a devastating forest fire swept through this controversial
region and burned nearly all of the forest surrounding a proposed
campground. Aside from the road, a bridge across the North Fork, and a
seldom-used entrance station, little other recreational development
resulted, but the dam-building project was effectively suspended.
Another gambit Superintendent Emmert used in his
arguments showing the "value" of Glacier was the display of increasing
visitation to Glacier and the substantial economic benefit of that
visitation to Montana's economy. By 1951, visitation had soared to over
500,000 visitors and the Park Service participated in a survey at the
park entrances to determine the travel habits, "likes and dislikes,"
extent of their travel, and the amount of money expended by Glacier's
visitors. The survey showed that the average park visitor spent five
dollars per day during his two-day stay in the park and during his
five-day stay in Montana. The economic impact of some 500,000 park
visitors spending over $12,000,000 while in Montana gave park officials
additional evidence to support their argument that recreational land was
economically beneficial to the State. But, just as these growing numbers
of visitors gave welcomed evidence of interest in the park, they proved
a burden to Park Service and hotel facilities alike. Most other national
parks were facing similar problems since "war-weary" Americans were
"making up for lost time." Consequently, the increased post-war
visitation to the outdated, deteriorated, or insufficient public
accommodations became critical as automobile tourists multiplied.
The New York Times quoted Park Service
Director Newton B. Drury as saying that increasing pressure was being
placed upon the Park Service to "break down their policies and
standards." He felt that "economic need in some cases and sheer
promotion in others had led to greater and greater demands for the
cutting of forests, the grazing of meadows, the damming of streams and
lakes and other destructive uses of the national parks." Drury later
stated that due to increased park visitation, millions of dollars should
be used to "modernize and expand" facilities "for entertaining visitors
to the national parks." A local newspaperman, Mel Ruder, echoed Drury's
statement and applied the national needs to Glacier. Ruder wrote in his
Hungry Horse News: "Housing facilities both in and outside the park
are inadequate. This also applies to campgrounds. Highway improvements
have been too slow. Other park roads have been improved too little with
resultant funnelling of visitors over the one 50-mile stretch of Sun
highway."
Regardless of the condition of park facilities, the
economic significance of Glacier and its "Sun Road" attraction became
more and more apparent. Local businessmen became anxious if the
transmountain road was not cleared of snow "on schedule." The park
concessionaires, local motel owners, restaurateurs, and gas station
operators, all anticipated the summertime influx of tourists and their
dollars once the road was opened. In June of 1953, Mel Ruder expressed
concern over a late opening and stated: "With the Pass [Logan
Pass] blocked, traffic to Glacier has been more than halved. The
economic loss to Montana stores, cabin camps, service stations and
restaurants runs into thousands of dollars."
So the park officials dedicated substantial time,
effort, and money to open the road each spring. Neither late snows, nor
avalanche conditions, nor faulty equipment was permitted to delay the
road crews. While some critics argued that this annual push was
foolhardy and wasteful, the spring clearing project continued as a top
priority.
Unquestionably, this snow-removal project was
extremely hazardous to the men employed to clear the snow. Merely
locating a roadway covered by forty or fifty feet of snow presented
problems. On several occasions snowslides pushed men and equipment off
the road or covered them with snow. An example of this hazard occurred
in May of 1953. That spring work had proceeded with the optimistic
expectation that the road would be opened earlier than usual. However, a
late, heavy, wet snow produced dangerous avalanche conditions. One
snowslide nearly buried Jean Sullivan, the operator of a rotary
snowplow, and his lookout Claude Tesmer.
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Removing the snow from Going-to-the-Sun
Road became an annual task for an elite force of men who were accustomed
to the problems of first locating the roadway and then clearing massive
amounts of snow. Each spring avalanches caused frequent closure of the
newly opened road. The avalanches also posed a constant threat to those
opening the roadway and, in 1953, two men were killed by this mountain
phenomenon. In addition, one crew member survived a burial of nearly
eight hours in the snowslide. (Courtesy of Mel Ruder, Hungry Horse
News)
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Conditions worsened in the ensuing days and finally
an entire crew of four men was hit by a devastating slide. In that
avalanche Bill Whitford was thrown three hundred yards down the mountain
and killed; George Beaton was buried and died; Fred Klien was badly
injured; and Jean Sullivan was also buried, but miraculously located
after seven and a half hours of searching. He had survived. His savior,
Dimon Apgar, was sitting in West Glacier when he heard of the disaster.
Apgar raced to the site, joined the search team and finally located
Sullivan buried in the initial snow-cut along the roadway.
Facing hazardous conditions each spring became
expected procedure for park crews, and since the local economic interest
in the road opening increased throughout the 1950s, allowing a natural
snowmelt was an impossible consideration. Local demands called for
skilled crews, better equipment, and the expenditure of more Park
Service funds. Mel Ruder also suggested that in light of the hazard,
"another possibility to consider is snow sheds over the Sun highway in
certain slide areas." Since snowsheds would lessen the danger but impair
the scenic drive, the proposal never received serious consideration.
Instead, road crewmen began to carry small devices which transmitted
signals, not to reduce the danger, but to enable search teams to locate
them readily should their burial occur.
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