Chapter Five:
PRODUCERS OF A PLAYGROUND (continued)
As the railroad constructed hotels, camps, chalets,
and trails on the east side of Glacier, it also completed a major road
from Midvale northward to Many Glacier, making motorized transportation
possible in "seven and twelve passenger White machines." All of these
projects unquestionably made the government efforts look puny in
comparison. According to historian James Sheire, by 1917, the government
had spent $634,000 in Glacier while the Great Northern had spent
approximately $1.5 million. Thus, in response to the railroad effort, or
possibly as a result of a perceived public demand, Logan and his
successors suggested "a road from some one of the mountain passes from
the east to the west side." Just as Logan managed to turn the path from
Belton to Apgar, "formerly a combination of quagmire, corduroy and
misery," into a "broad, well drained, macadamized highway," the Federal
Government planned the major development project which would facilitate
automobile travel, open Glacier's wilderness, and draw tourists in
substantial numbers. Lyman B. Sperry commented in 1915: "Nature has
done much for the Glacier Park region. The Great Northern folks have
done, and will doubtless continue to do, much in the way of hotels etc.
Let the Government do equally well in providing roadways and
trails."
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Drawing people to Glacier, became an art
in itself. Attractive brochures, scenic photographs, touring Blackfeet
Indians, slogans like "See America First," all promoted the adventure,
the accessibility and the accommodations available in a newly developed
national park. (Courtesy of Glacier National Park Historical
Collections)
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Almost every superintendent of Glacier echoed Logan's
plea for a transmountain road. Most administrators agreed that this road
to "points of scenic interest" was necessary and, as Supervisor S. F.
Ralston wrote in 1915: "It will afford quick and easy transportation
to hundreds of tourists who will not undergo the hardships of a
horseback trip, and would open up a new and scenic transcontinental
route during the summer months." Ralston added that this national
park experience planned for future travelers would also "greatly
increase the revenues of the park."
Following the formation of the National Park Service
in 1916, the newly appointed Director, Stephen Mather, took a direct
interest in Glacier's proposed roadways and development. Mather traveled
over some of Glacier's passes by horseback, viewing various routes, and
he corresponded with men like Sperry, asking their opinions concerning
the location for the proposed road. Mather would later justify this road
construction by stating: "Roads . . . had to be developed and
expanded because cross-country motoring was just then developing and
motorists were urging that the parks be opened to automobiles."
Mather's successor as Director of the National Park Service, Horace M.
Albright, justified this major development when he stated: "Although
Glacier will always remain a trail park, the construction of this one
highway to its inner wonders is meeting an obligation to the great mass
of people who because of age, physical condition, or other reason would
never have an opportunity to enjoy, close at hand, this marvelous
mountain park."
Park supporters, administrators, and concessionaires
alike agreed that a road should be built, but they disagreed as to the
route. Logan, Marshall, and the other early planners proposed a variety
of routes: one from Lake McDonald northeastward over Fifty Mountain to
Waterton, another over Trapper Creek (Logan) Pass, one from Waterton
Lake over Brown Pass to Bowman Lake, and another over Gunsight Pass.
Lyman Sperry wrote lengthy letters to Director Mather and others
advocating the Gunsight Pass-Sperry Trail route. Sperry wrote to the
Kalispell Chamber of Commerce advocating his plan and told them that
Louis Hill wanted the Swiftcurrent Pass route used so that Many Glacier
Hotel would have a steady stream of clientele. Subsequently, Kalispell's
Chamber of Commerce supported Sperry against the railroad. In fact,
Louis Hill had written to Sperry: "When the road finally goes through
I am inclined to think that it should be farther north for the purpose
of enabling travelers to see as much of the mountain country as
possible, and to have an ultimate destination in the Park, probably in
the vicinity of Many-Glacier Hotel." Sperry countered that an
additional road over Piegan Pass to St. Mary Lake could connect "his"
road with Hill's hotel. While the bickering continued, government
surveys in 1917 and 1918 found Logan Pass to be the lowest and most
practicable east-west route.
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The automobile was introduced to Glacier
by 1913. It soon became a popular way of transporting people to the
larger hotels, especially on Glacier's east side. By 1915, specific
plans were being made to create a transmountain road cutting across
Glacier's interior, with the rationale that those people inclined not to
hike or ride a horse would still be able to see a substantial portion of
the park. (Courtesy of Glacier National Park Historical
Collections)
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As Park Service crews began to maintain and improve
the nearly one hundred miles of park road on the east side near Many
Glacier, St. Mary, Cut Bank, and Two Medicine and on the west side at
Fish Creek and into the North Fork region, the first segment of the
Going-to-the-Sun Road was initiated by a private landowner and hotel
operator, J. E. Lewis, in 1919. Lewis managed to construct approximately
three miles of road along the east shore of Lake McDonald and spent over
three thousand dollars in his effort. By 1921, Congress appropriated the
necessary funds and the Park Service engaged private construction firms
to continue road building to the Lewis Hotel (now Lake McDonald Lodge)
and then northeastward along McDonald Creek. By 1925, contractors had
completed the road to Avalanche Creek, work had begun on the east side
heading into the mountains from St. Mary, and the Bureau of Public Roads
initiated the final survey of the route over Logan Pass.
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During the early 1920s, work began on an
automobile road through the heart of Glacier over Logan Pass. Crews
worked under dangerous conditions which the loose rock, avalanches, and
weather of these mountains frequently provided. In two places, the
precipitous slopes could not be made into a roadway and tunnels were
constructed. Regardless of the danger, only one man died of an
accidental fall during the decade of construction activity. By 1933, the
Going-to-the-Sun Road was completed at a cost of three million dollars.
(Courtesy of Glacier National Park Historical Collections)
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Various private firms from Spokane, Tacoma, St. Paul,
and Montana participated in the final phase of the massive construction
project. The Williams and Douglas Company of Tacoma received the
contract on the most difficult section along the west side of the Garden
Wall and moved crews and equipment to the foot of the Wall in June 1925.
Packhorses moved all construction equipment in and out of the area until
the Mount Cannon section of the road was completed, which then allowed
truck transport to be used. From 1925 until 1929, six camps were
established with three hundred men engaged in construction work. Of all
the men involved in this dangerous labor, only one man, a foreman, was
killed when he lost his grip on a rope and fell sixty feet to the
roadway. Both the east and west side tunnels presented specialized
problems and were subcontracted and bypassed as work continued beyond
them. They became the most difficult projects to complete. By late 1928,
construction approached Logan Pass and by June of 1929, automobiles
could travel from the West Entrance to Logan Pass. In October 1932, the
east side tunnel was completed and the final section of the road was
roughed out and graded. And on July 15, 1933, the three million dollar
Going-to-the-Sun Road was dedicated with a very elaborate ceremony and
celebration atop Logan Pass and was officially opened for public
use.
Going-to-the-Sun Road became an overnight success at
drawing motorists, and it developed into a major attraction of Glacier
National Park. Some estimates indicate that over ninety-five percent of
all park visitors centered their entire visit along the roadway and
confined their entire park stay to the two-to-four hour drive in and out
of the park. Statistical evidence also displayed a significant increase
in travel to Glacier, showing forty thousand people visiting in 1925 as
construction was beginning, increasing to seventy-four thousand in 1930
as construction was nearing completion, and skyrocketing to two hundred
and ten thousand in 1936 after the road had been open for three years.
The combination of the opening of U.S. Highway 2 south of Glacier in
1930, along with the opening of Going-to-the-Sun Road in 1933, made
scenic Glacier a new and attractive objective for transcontinental
automobile travel. The Going-to-the-Sun Road became the major National
Park Service development in Glacier, opened Glacier's wilderness to "the
great mass of people," and became a major administrative center of
attention for many years thereafter. Road conditions, snow removal,
traffic control, repair, and maintenance, all became primary concerns
for park officials.
The establishment of the National Park Service in
1916 served not only to unify all national parks, to increase their
annual budgets, and to make projects like Going-to-the-Sun Road
possible, but also it made numerous other construction requests more
orderly and general planning less haphazard than it had been. After
World War I ended and visitation and Congressional appropriations
returned to normal, the park officials began constructing bridges,
patrol cabins, ranger stations, employee housing, administrative
buildings, telephone lines, campgrounds, trails, and many additional
improvements deemed necessary for various administrative purposes or to
enhance visitor use and enjoyment. Trail construction ranked high on the
priority list. In 1917, Acting Supervisor George E. Goodwin reported
that only two hundred miles of trail existed (Logan had reported 199 in
1911) and recommended that more be built. By 1930, Director Horace
Albright recorded that 841 miles of trail existed, and by 1940 nearly
one thousand miles of trail had been built reflecting several decades of
trail-building effort.
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The Great Northern Railway sponsored
writers who would come to Glacier, and describe the park environment as
well as the convenience of its accommodations. Some of the writers were
more impressed than others. Novelist Mary Roberts Rinehart recorded her
impressions of life in these mountains in Through Glacier Park
(1916) and Tenting To-Night (1918). Regarding the rangers, she
wrote: "The rangers keep going all winter. There is much to be done. In
the summer it is forest fires and outlaws. In the winter there are no
forest fires, but there are poachers after mountain sheep and goats,
opium smugglers, bad men from over the Canadian border. Now and then a
ranger freezes to death. All summer these intrepid men on their sturdy
horses go about armed with revolvers. But in the fallsnow begins
early in September, sometimes even in Augustthey take to
snowshoes. With a carbine strung to his shoulders, matches in a
waterproof case, snowshoes and a package of food in his pocket, the
Glacier Park ranger covers unnumbered miles, patrolling the wildest and
most storm-ridden country in America. He travels alone. The imprint of a
strange snowshoe on the trail rouses his suspicion. Single-handed he
follows the marks in the snow. A blizzard comes. He makes a wikiup of
branches, lights a small fire, and plays solitaire until the weather
clears. The prey he is stalking cannot advance either. Then one day the
snow ceases; the sun comes out. Over the frozen crust his snowshoes
slide down great slopes with express speed. Generally he takes his man
in. Sometimes the outlaw gets the drop on the ranger first and gets
away." (Courtesy of Glacier National Park Historical
Collections)
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Just as trail mileage increased, campgrounds appeared
in response to a certain segment of the public who did not care to
patronize the hotels, camps, or chalets supplied by the Great Northern
or to use the cabins of the park's private operators. In 1921, Steve
Mather reported: "The number of automobiles now visiting Glacier Park
made it necessary to provide additional campgrounds." He added that
other needs like toilets, grills, showers, water supplies, and picnic
areas should also be considered. By 1923, Mather felt the campgrounds
needed enlargement and added: "The existing hotel and chalet
facilities were overtaxed during the peak of the season, and with the
nearing completion of the Transmountain Road a serious problem is
presented in the matter of furnishing the visiting public adequate
accommodations. These must be anticipated and provided before the park
is overwhelmed."
The Glacier Park Hotel Company found the brisk
business of the 1920s particularly satisfying since its investment of
the previous decade was substantial. Historian Ober referred to this
period as "the Golden Years" for the company. By intensive publicity
campaigns, by encouragement of group tours, by using Blackfeet Indians
as traveling publicity agents (referred to as the Glacier Park Tribe in
railroad literature), and by many other techniques, the Hotel Company
successfully encouraged travel to Glacier. Earlier the Great Northern
sponsored tours of writers and encouraged and published their writings
about the park. Books like M. E. Holtz and Katherine Bemis's Glacier
National Park, Its Trails and Treasures became a Great
Northern-Glacier Park Hotel Company advertisement as well as a
description of Glacier. In sponsoring historical writers, the companies
gained booklets like Grace Flandrau's The Story of Marias Pass
(1935) which paid appropriate homage to Great Northern heroes. Some of
the more perceptive books came from the pen of James Willard Schultz,
whose Signposts of Adventure (1926) related the
historical-legendary source of place names for Glacier. Even Mary
Roberts Rinehart's two books, Through Glacier Park and Tenting
To-Night, while contributing a female point of view, gave
substantial credit to railroad investments. In Through Glacier
Park, published in 1916, Rinehart gave a dutiful, twenty-page
chapter describing the various hotels, chalets, and camps. Rinehart
began:
In perfect harmony with their setting, deep in among the mountains
. . . are the hotels, chalet-villages, and tepee-camps. They form not
the least interesting feature of this mountain land. True, some who are
looking for a wilderness in their visit to this great play-ground, and
who carry their "hotels" in a "rucksack" on their backs, consider these
accommodations an unwelcome luxury and an unnecessary comfort, if not a
sacrilege. But in every play-ground are there not those who care only to
look on, as well as those who play for all there is in the game?
With the construction of the Prince of Wales Hotel at
Waterton Townsite in Alberta's adjoining Waterton Lakes National Park in
1926-27, and its opening for business by mid-1927, Hotel Company
officials anticipated that their construction efforts were completed.
However, this major concessionaire of Glacier had signed a twenty-year
contract in 1917 which, while it gave the company many privileges, it
also mandated that they function in the "best interests of the public."
These privileges meant that the company could provide exclusive lodging
and dining facilities in Glacier's east side (and in nearly the whole
park after the company purchased the Lewis Hotel at Lake McDonald in
1930), could graze livestock near their chalets and hotels, could plant
ten-acre garden plots near their facilities, could seine whitefish out
of St. Mary Lake for menu use, and could engage in other activities to
improve their business.
But their twenty-year contract also stipulated that
they must respond to Park Service requests. Director Mather began to
assert firmer control over hotel activities during the mid-1920s. His
well-publicized dislike of an old and unsightly sawmill at Many Glacier
brought his wrath into the open. While inspecting Glacier National Park
in 1925, he became disgusted at the hotel managers indifference toward
this unsightly mess of woodpiles and slash. He enlisted the aid of a
Park Service crew, which placed thirteen sticks of dynamite under the
sawmill, and blew it up. After leaving Park Service crews there to
insure that hotel employees cleaned up the scene, Mather left to
continue his "fight against corruption, commercialism and destructive
private interests in the national parks." If Director Mather
suggestedas he did in 1920that a small hotel be built at
Logan Pass or at Kintla or Bowman Lakes, or a large hotel be placed in
the Belly River valley, then the Hotel Company was expected to
respond.
By 1929, a Park Service policy called for each
national park concessionaire to develop a five-year plan for
construction. Presented to Park Service officials in Glacier, as well as
to regional and national offices, the plan was intended to allow park
planners to work with the hotel management in providing for the
anticipated needs of future park visitors.
The Glacier Park Hotel Company failed to submit a
plan on schedule. Whether they felt their construction was complete or
whether they were beginning to feel the economic squeeze of the
Depression apparently was of little concern to park officials who became
upset at their display of indifference. The Park Service hoped to add
"auto-cabins" or "bungalows" for the numerous automobile tourists who
visited the park, but who wished to avoid the expensive accommodations
of the massive hotels. Local critic W. C. Whipps wrote that the park was
meant as a "playground for ALL the American people, not simply . . .
for the bridge and golf players, not for the sole benefit of the Great
Northern Railway company or a few park rangers and white pants
dudes." In response to Park Service insistence and changing public
demand, the Hotel Company extended its services by building the
Swiftcurrent Auto Cabins (near Many Glacier) in 1934, began to construct
another auto-cabin complex at Rose Creek (now Rising Sun) in 1940, and
prepared plans for a similar development at Apgar. So, while both Park
Service officials and hotel operators hoped to serve the public, the
meager profits of short summer seasons, combined with hard times
throughout the country, made hotel officials reluctant to expand when
the Park Service proposed additional projects as addenda to the
attraction of Going-to-the-Sun Road.
Both the Park Service and the Glacier Park Hotel
Company appeared successful in satisfying the traveling public, and from
thousands of visitors, there were very few complaints about services or
facilities. The irony of the rift over the auto-cabins at Swiftcurrent
was their subsequent destruction during the Heavens Peak Fire of 1936,
only two years after their completion. While the fire threatened Many
Glacier Hotel, Park Service and hotel crews combined their efforts to
insure its survival. But many Park Service buildings and the auto-camp
would have to be almost entirely rebuilt.
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A lack of rainfall, drying winds, and
hot summer days occasionally led to Glacier's forests becoming
susceptible to a lightning or man-caused fire. Forest fires burned over
one hundred thousand acres in the park during 1910 and they continued to
threaten nearly every summer, with the Half Moon Fire of 1920 burning
thousands of acres of mature forest and destroying considerable private
property. Today the attitude toward fire in national parks is beginning
to change as ecologists view fire as a natural stage in forest life
cycles. As the forest fire fighting symbol, Smokey the Bear, entered
retirement, fire would still be viewed by many people as needless
destruction, but ecologists began to alter that traditional view of fire
as an unquestionable evil. (Courtesy of Glacier National Park
Historical Collections and United States Forest Service
(insert))
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