Chapter Five:
PRODUCERS OF A PLAYGROUND
All park managers face the dilemma of striking a
balance between preservation and use. Within our park concept there can
be no question of locking up the wilderness. The wilderness proper
serves all park visitors.
Secretary of the Interior Stewart Udall, 1965
It is the desire of my heart to make this park the
most wonderful land in the world.
Superintendent William R. Logan, 1911
|
(Courtesy of Glacier National Park
Historical Collections)
|
Doubting the man's evasive reply, Ranger Joe Heimes
stated that this poacher looked a lot like Joe Cosley. Caught in his
illegal camp with furs and traps beside him, the man replied: "Yes, I
am, but you're not taking me in. I'm going the other way, up into
Canada." Heimes then told Cosley that if he refused to come along he
would "beat him out of there with a club." Darkness fell and the two
were forced to spend a night at the camp with Cosley "chewing the rag"
all night attempting to gain his release from the ranger. After spending
the sleepless night. Heimes began to herd Cosley back toward the Belly
River Ranger Station. But after progressing only a quarter of a mile,
Cosley began running and Ranger Heimes had to chase after and finally
tackle him in the heavy brush. Upon convincing the poacher to continue
toward the station and after proceeding another quarter of a mile,
Cosley turned around and faced Heimes, stating: "This is as far as
I'm going." Then the two started scuffling and the ranger managed to
bump Cosley's head against a tree and "sort of knocked him coo-coo."
Cosley again promised no further opposition, but after another quarter
of a mile, he began to run again. When Heimes had tackled and scuffled
with the poacher for the third time, he decided to take the laces from
his own boots and tie Cosley's hands. Just as he was considering tying
both Cosley's feet and hands and packing the man out on a pack horse,
two additional rangers arrived to assist in this successful capture.
|
(Courtesy of Glacier National Park
Historical Collections)
|
This classic account of an actual ranger protecting
the pristine wilderness of Glacier Park stands out as an example of a
major park objectivepreservation of the park in a "state of
nature." As soon as the area had gained park status, the Federal
Government took immediate steps to provide greater protection to the
area. Congress appropriated a modest budget, the Interior Department
provided a superintendent to replace Forest Service personnel, and
Interior supervisors issued guidelines and instructions regarding the
operation of this new "playground." But just as miners, settlers,
railroaders, and others had invaded the region to exploit its natural
resources in the decades preceding the park's establishment, the
Interior Department officials, new park administrators, railroad
executives, hotel operators, and the public became concerned about
"developing" a recreation area, attracting tourists, and using the
natural features of Glacier for recreational purposes. The ideal of
wilderness preservation conflicted with the realities of "primitive"
transportation and living conditions. And conditions which deterred
visitors were to be replaced by "attractions" in the form of roads,
trails, and hotels. This emphasis toward developing the area would
continue through the 1930s, and elements of that attitude remain
today.
Congress, in 1910, did not intend Glacier to be an
absolute wilderness. The park's organic act provided for a "pleasure
ground for the benefit and enjoyment of the people," and it also
permitted continued private land ownership, leased land for summer
cottages, continued mining activity, railroad routes, and the harvesting
of dead, downed, or diseased timber. Thus, when the Interior
Department's newly assigned representative, Major William R. Logan,
arrived to administer the region in August of 1910, his title explained
his task: "Superintendent of Road and Trail Construction." Logan hoped
to embark on a program that would build a new road between Belton and
Apgar, establish telephone lines, construct trails, locate sites for
future administrative buildings, and generally organize the area for
future recreational purposes.
But upon his arrival, Logan faced a horrendous forest
fire situation in the park. The fires, which later were estimated to
have consumed over a hundred thousand acres of park forests, kept Logan
and his assistants away from desired projects and directed their efforts
toward the fire emergency. After traveling through the mountains on an
inspection trip with Forest Supervisor Roscoe Haines in order to
familiarize himself with the region, Logan spent the remainder of the
summer directing Federal troops and other fire fighters on
conflagrations near the now-immortalized Rampage Mountain, Fire-brand
Pass, Debris Creek, Soldier Mountain, and other such places. Government
construction activity had to be postponed until the next season.
Logan managed to appoint a small ranger force of six
men to remain in the park for that following winter. He appointed a
chief ranger, Haney E. Vaught, and placed the other men at various
locations around the periphery of the park. Logan then departed for
Washington with plans to return in the spring of 1911. These early
rangers were directed to prevent poaching, illegal grazing, fires,
"defacing of natural features," "obnoxious persons entering," and any
other incongruous activities which might endanger the park. One of these
rangers, Dan Doody, a homesteader in nearby Nyack Flats, who had hunted,
prospected, mined, and settled in these mountains, was typical of these
early Federal agents. Doody patrolled the Middle Fork drainages, using
his own homestead as a headquarters. Later, because of his recognized
hunting abilities, Doody became a park hunter skilled at removing
"undesirable" wildlife from the area. Similarly, the other rangers
located at Lake Sherburne, St. Mary, Two Medicine, and Fish Creek
performed their functions directed toward protection.
|
William R. Logan took charge of Glacier
in August of 1910. Faced with forest fires which covered some one
hundred thousand acres, Logan could do little but plan for the future.
During the 1911 season, Logan initiated road-building projects, located
a ranger headquarters at Fish Creek, and hoped to make Glacier
attractive to the visiting public. (Courtesy of Glacier National Park
Historical Collections)
|
By the time Logan boarded the eastbound train at the
end of that first hectic summer, he had been able to help evaluate the
"needs" of the area and to aid in the formulation of an extensive
program for development. This development program, which was the result
of Logan's inspection tour with Supervisor Haines, Chief Clerk C. S.
Ucker of the Interior Department, and two U.S. Geological Survey
employees, Marius Campbell and Robert Marshall, became the government's
plan for preserving Glacier, and, more importantly, for making it
accessible for tourism. Submitted by Marshall, this two million dollar
plan included an extensive road system, numerous trails, signal
stations, hotels, and countless other projects. The desire to preserve
the park was tempered by a realization that Americans of that day could
not be attracted to "primitive" conditions. Late in 1910, Logan wrote
that he hoped to "develop the Park as rapidly as possible . . .
keeping in mind the future day . . . when the American traveling public
will at last realize that the beauties of their own country are
unsurpassed anywhere in the world and our national parks will come into
their own."
|
James J. Hill and his son Louis viewed
the park as worthy of investment and played a significant role in the
development of accommodations. Soon after the park bill became law,
their, railroad company spent thousands of dollars in the construction
of tourist facilities near and within Glacier. Almost all of Glacier's
chalets and large hotels date from this initial interest in encouraging
visitation. Louis Hill took a particular interest in supervising the
construction of Glacier Park and Many Glacier Hotels. The Great Northern
also sponsored early road and trail construction on Glacier's east side.
(Courtesy of Burlington Northern, Inc.)
|
Logan advocated a utilitarian philosophy not only
because Glacier was "undeveloped" and because Congress made provisions
for certain uses, but also because his supervisors, like Ucker, and
associates like Marshall and Campbell intended the park to be opened and
used. During 1910 and 1911, Logan instructed his rangers to guard
against illegal timber cutting, yet he established a sawmill at Fish
Creek and anticipated that lumber would soon "rank first among the
sources of [park] revenue." He encouraged the Reclamation Service to
construct a hydroelectric plant on the park's east side, yet he was
outraged when the Great Northern officials suggested a similar project
within the area since "it would have a tendency through the hand of man
of spoiling the scenic beauty as created by the hand of God." Similarly,
he encouraged the investigation of all mining claims to determine their
validity, yet he fully expected those people who were legally mining to
continue. In his first annual report, Logan recommended that all private
land in the park be purchased by the government as soon as possible
because park developments would "naturally increase" the value of "these
... holdings"; yet he insured the protection and legal rights of private
landowners. When Logan opposed the Great Northern workers who cut timber
which had not been selected or marked by park rangers, Interior
Department officials informed Logan that he was to permit any cutting
which would facilitate hotel construction. Thus, Logan and the
superintendents who followed after his death in early 1912 all faced an
administrative task which began with a conflicting directive from
Congress to use and yet preserve the park. This conflict spurred major
construction proposals which ultimately led to building a "playground"
rather than a "preserve."
Logan's efforts in 1910 and 1911 to build three miles
of road, to extend trails in the region, and to establish a headquarters
site, all paled in comparison with the Great Northern Railway's
construction efforts. James J. Hill intended to develop Glacier as the
"Playground of the Northwest" and make it fully competitive with
attractions advertised by his competitors, the Canadian Pacific and
Northern Pacific Railways. Louis Hill, son of the famous tycoon, stated
in 1911: "The work is so important that I am loath to entrust the
development to anybody but myself." Both Hills intended Glacier to
be an attraction and would have agreed with Park Service Director
Stephen Mather's later statement that: "Scenery is a hollow enjoyment
if the tourist starts out after an indigestible breakfast and a fitful
sleep on an impossible bed." The wilderness needed improvements to
be enjoyed.
Hill's Great Northern began planning and constructing
facilities near and in Glacier as soon as President Taft signed the park
bill. Louis Hill became the personal supervisor of construction activity
in Glacier, but argued that as soon as other businesses could be
convinced to invest capital in development, we wish to get out of it and
confine ourselves strictly to the business of getting people there."
|
(Courtesy of Burlington Northern,
Inc.)
|
By June of 1910, railroad construction crews began
work on a chalet complex at Belton which was completed later that
summer. At that same time, the railroad planned hotels, chalets, tent
camps, roads, and trails for Glacier's east side. By 1912, Hill managed
to purchase one hundred and sixty acres of land on the Blackfeet Indian
Reservation at Midvale (now East Glacier Park) and began construction of
the Glacier Park Lodge. At a cost of $500,000, the hotel opened for
business in 1913 and the railroad continued its construction of trails,
"tepee camps," and chalets within the park itself. Rustic log-and-stone
chalets provided housing for horse-riding tourists, with each site
located a convenient day's horse ride apart. Thus, the adventurous
traveler could detrain from the Great Northern at Midvale and walk to
the nearby Glacier Park Lodge. Upon securing a horse, he could ride over
the new Mount Henry trail to Two Medicine Chalet, the next day he could
ride on to Cut Bank Chalet, and the next to St. Mary Chalet, and so on
until he arrived back at Midvale or crossed the Continental Divide to
board the Great Northern at Belton. Tent camps established at places
like Red Eagle and Crossley (now Cosley) Lakes, Fifty Mountain, and Goat
Haunt enabled the visitor to see additional areas and experience even
more "primitive" accommodations. Horse concessionaires operated from
every hotel and chalet in the park, and after 1915, most small guide
operations were organized into W. N. Noffsinger's Park Saddle Horse
Company. By 1925, the Saddle Horse Company had over a thousand horses,
transported some ten thousand people per year over park trails, and
claimed to be the largest such operation in the world. The horseback
tour through Glacier became the dominant method of seeing the park until
Going-to-the-Sun Road was completed in the early 1930s.
|
The first decade of activity in Glacier
found visitors transported to the park by railway, airplane, and boat.
But using a horse remained the most popular method by which the visitor
would tour the park until the 1930s. (Courtesy of Burlington
Northern, Inc.)
|
By 1915, Great Northern travel literature boasted
that a "Mammoth Mountain Hotel" at Many Glacier had been completed at a
cost of $500,000. This final project in the flurry of initial
development activity was built to attract visitors with its expansive
"Swiss mountain type architecture," its "forest lobby," and "open
campfire," and its "mural canvas, 180 feet long, painted by Medicine Owl
and eleven other Blackfeet braves and depicting the history of the
Blackfeet nation in its palmy days." The railroad advertisers also
listed their three "tepee camps and nine chalet groups scattered
throughout the mountains which were described as "veritable mountain
villages." With "auto-stage, saddle horse and launch service" providing
transportation, the Great Northern informed the American public that
Glacier was accessible and that it should "See America First," using the
"National Park Line" featuring "Rocky, the Great Northern Goat." In
their advertisements the man-made marvels of hotel, chalet, and
decoration almost outclassed the wilderness wonders available in the
national park.
Park officials seemed pleased that the Great Northern
construction efforts were being accomplished and quickly pointed out
that visitation to the park was increasing. Superintendent Logan noted
that only four thousand persons toured the park in 1911; his successor,
Superintendent J. L. Galen, reported over twelve thousand by 1913. The
Great Northern construction and a strong and persistent Glacier Park
publicity campaign which the railroad promoted certainly contributed to
increasing tourism during Glacier's first decade of existence. As early
as 1911, park planner R. B. Marshall of the U.S. Geological Survey
responded to the problem of how to increase visitation to all the
"neglected" national parks. Finding that only one-quarter of one percent
of the American public visited any national park in 1911, Marshall
argued that the Federal Government had to appropriate more money for
improvements, that a new government agency be established to run all of
the national parks, and that a free national park magazine be made
available to publicize the parks. Marshall then concluded: "I believe
that in the improvement of the Glacier National Park which is in all of
its virgin beauty and affords a splendid opportunity for the Government
to carry out an ideal plan of improvement profiting by its abundant
experience in the management of other national parks, the co-operation
of the Great Northern Railway should be encouraged to the greatest
possible extent." Even Secretary of the Interior Walter L. Fisher
decried the lack of visitation and argued that something had to be done
to increase public interest in the parks. Fisher added: "We
thoroughly appreciate the expenditures which the railroads have made in
many instances for the development of the parks." Fisher included
the "furnishing of increased facilities" as well as transportation and
"publicity they are carrying on." In his examples of cooperation, Fisher
went on to encourage park administrators to listen to the "valuable
suggestions" which the railroads offered. In Glacier, some of these
railroad suggestions included artist colonies, placing bells at mountain
passes, building bearfeeding arenas, importing Swiss mountain guides,
having wranglers wear gaudy cowboy outfits, and many other
"improvements."
|
(Courtesy of Burlington Northern,
Inc.)
|
So national park officials, both in Glacier and in
Washington, applauded the large hotels and other new accommodations in
Glacier. Whether increased visitation was essential to a park's survival
or whether Congress based the budgets for parks entirely upon their
visitation statistics is not clear, but park officials, at the local and
national levels believed that growing numbers would produce the lever to
gain greater annual appropriations. Certainly each of Glacier's
superintendents continually recommended projects which required greater
amounts of money, and almost all were intended to attract more people
and make their stay more comfortable.
|