Chapter Three:
EXPLORERS AND EXPLOITERS (continued)
The decade of the 1880s hastened the deterioration of
the Blackfeet and heightened interest in the mountains adjacent to their
territory. By 1882, the last of the buffalo were slaughtered for their
hides by both Indian and white hunters alike. The Blackfeet failed to
consent to or adopt cattle ranching or farming, and by 1883-84
starvation among the tribe was rampant. Because of government neglect,
James Willard Schultz wrote to the well-known Indian authority and
editor of Forest and Stream magazine, George Bird Grinnell,
concerning the welfare of the Blackfoot tribe. In the spring of 1885,
Grinnell arrived on the Blackfeet Reservation and observed their
destitute condition. Due to his influence and a change of
administrators, government aid to the Blackfeet gradually increased.
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The region of St. Mary Lakes and the
Swiftcurrent Valley attracted prospectors and sportsmen alike. Though
referred to as "The Walled-In Lakes" or "The Lakes-Inside" by the
Blackfeet, missionary Father, Albert La Combe renamed them St. Mary
Lakes in 1855. Arriving in the 1880s, naturalist George Bird Grinnell
became fascinated by the region's wilderness character, camped and
hunted there, and wrote a series of articles about it for Forest and
Stream magazine. (Courtesy of Doug Erskine)
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Grinnell was also introduced to the mountainous
region of the reservationparticularly the area of St. Mary Lakes.
With Schultz and Otokomi (Yellow Fish) as his guides, Grinnell explored
and hunted in the region, listened to the Blackfoot stories told by both
men, and became enchanted with this little-known region. Upon his return
to the East, he described his adventures in the mountains in a series of
fourteen essays in Forest and Stream magazine. His observations,
entitled "To the Walled in Lakes," gave his readers the best description
of that area presented to the general public up to that time. Grinnell
described the "white bones of the buffalo" as present everywhere on the
plains and provided vivid descriptions of the mountains surrounding the
St. Mary Lakes. His major interest in the area was fishing and hunting,
and almost all of his essays detail his adventures in pursuit of fish,
fowl, and game. While camped between the two St. Mary Lakes, Grinnell
met and hunted with some Kutenai Indians. There were "eight lodges" of
"Kootenay" camped at the foot of the lower lake, and they had been in
the area for over fifty days. Led by Chief Back-in-Sight (Keh
Kowitz-Keyucla), the western tribe was busy trapping beaver but had also
killed forty sheep, two bear (one black and one grizzly), one moose, a
few elk, and had found plenty of beaver. Grinnell was quite impressed
with Kutenai adaptation to the mountains and their ability to hunt and
travel afoot. He hunted with them on several occasions.
Through Grinnell's observations and Schultz's reports
of the previous year, one can piece together the changing condition of
these mountains in the 1880s. Easterners like Grinnell were attracted to
the hunting possibilities of these mountains. Even Schultz wrote: "As
a resort for the sportsman the Chief Mountain country cannot be
excelled. The scenery is grand, game plenty, the fishing
unexcelled." During his 1884 hunting trip in this area, Schultz
encountered three men prospecting, found evidence of gold and silver,
met a trapper, and saw an entire forest stripped by Canadian timber
thieves. Ben Norris, head of a prospecting party, apparently spent most
of his time hunting sheep, but Schultz recorded: "Ben's two young men
have been sinking holes in many likely places, but as yet have been
unable to get to bed-rock on account of water. It's no boy's play to
'delve for gold.'"
Grinnell also found evidence of other hunting parties
in the Swiftcurrent region and expressed some interest in the glaciers
of the area. His observation of Chief Mountain indicated that its name
was clearly established by that time. He remarked that "Dick King" was
the sole white resident of the St. Mary valley. Schultz stated that he
and a companion named "Jim" picked up several pieces of "float quartz,
which were rich with gold and silver." [Because] "we were tired, and
as this country is an Indian reservation, we concluded we didn't want a
gold mine." In 1936, Schultz related a presumably fictionalized
account of mineral discovery in the Glacier Park region. He stated that
in 1885, he convinced E. C. Garrett, an Indian Agency clerk and mystic,
to believe a manipulated Ouija board which Schultz and his friend George
Steel were adept at using. Together they invented "Bedrock Jim" who
returned from the dead to tell Garrett of a gold discovery in the
Swiftcurrent region and of his untimely demise at the hands of some
hostile Indians. Excitedly, Garrett outfitted a prospector named "Dutch
Lui" (Lui Meyers) and sent him into that area. As Schultz's story in
Blackfeet and Buffalo concluded, Dutch Lui completely surprised
them by returning in a couple of weeks with some copper ore. Word spread
and the prospectors began to invade the Indian reservation.
In November of 1889, the Fort Benton River
Press reported that Dutch Lui had been prospecting in the mountains
(of today's park) since October 1885. He established a camp on the
Continental Divide at the head of Copper and Quartz Creeks and located a
vein of "grayish white quartz carrying gold, silver, copper, and some
lead," which supposedly assayed at from $80 to $500 per ton. While other
prospecting parties were reported in the region during the last half of
the 1880s, Dutch Lui's strike proved the main attraction for numerous
footloose prospectors to enter the mountain country.
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By the 1870s and 1880s, mining areas in
Glacier, appeared promising. Exploratory shafts were sunk and some more
elaborate tunnels followed copper leads deep into the mountains. The
Swiftcurrent Valley, near, today's Many Glacier, proved to be the center
of activity. Most of the mines produced little, if any, profit and were
abandoned within a few years. (Courtesy of Glacier National Park
Historical Collections)
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But prospectors were not the only individuals
arriving. Hunting and fishing expeditions began to arrive in the eastern
valleys each season. George Bird Grinnell returned a second time in 1887
and would continue to revisit the mountains for many years to come.
Joseph Kipp, Schultz, Jack Monroe (a trapper not related to Hugh
Monroe), and William Jackson (grandson of Hugh Monroe), among others,
began to conduct parties into Glacier's wilderness. Men of wealth like
Grinnell, the English banking family of Cecil Baring, Ralph Pulitzer,
and Henry L. Stimson (later Secretary of State and twice Secretary of
War) were guided into the area and explored the mountains, lakes, and
streams of the region. Each man considered himself an "explorer," and
their local guides promoted that concept by arbitrarily naming
geographical features in their honor. Schultz claimed substantial credit
for placing names of many mountains, and in 1926, he published
Signposts of Adventure relating his rationale for names like
Singleshot, Fusillade, Red Eagle, Otokomi, Jackson, and many others.
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Engineer John F. Stevens verified the
usability of Marias Pass for Great Northern Railway magnate lames J.
Hill. (Courtesy of Glacier National Park Historical
Collections)
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While these wealthy visitors and their guides
exploited the hunting resources of the mountains, other adventurers
sought more lucrative uses for the area. In 1882 and again in 1883, the
distinguished world traveler and explorer, Raphael Pumpelly, was engaged
by railroad magnate Henry Villard to survey the region and evaluate the
country for anticipated railroad feeder lines. While concerned with the
mineral wealth in the area as well as its agricultural potential,
irrigation possibilities, and forests, Pumpelly's Northern
Transcontinental Railroad Survey (1881-84) was intended to compile a
complete inventory of the various resources. Arriving in Helena in June
of 1882, Pumpelly hired William R. Logan as a guide and packer. Logan
would later become the first superintendent of Glacier National Park.
When they attempted to cross the Continental Divide via Cut Bank Pass
and later Two Medicine Pass in order to travel to the Flathead plains,
deep snow remaining from the Fourth of July forced them to turn back and
attempt their survey the following year. In 1883, Pumpelly returned to
Montana, rehired Logan, and headed for the Flathead Valley via Missoula
in order to cross the mountains from the west. Accompanied by Lt. John
Van Orsdale, who had been over the route ten years before, the
expedition struggled up the Middle Fork and headed up Nyack Creek.
Pumpelly located a glacier (today bearing his name) in that region and
then crossed over Cut Bank Pass. Pumpelly's survey helped to call
attention to the region, but further action was delayed since Henry
Villard's railroad conglomerate (including the Northern Pacific Railway)
experienced its financial failure.
But Villard's competitor, James J. Hill, the
aggressive developer of the growing St. Paul, Minneapolis and Manitoba
Railroad, constructed his railroad into the mining regions of Montana.
By 1887, Hill was prepared to extend his line westward toward the coast
and needed to determine a route across the mountains. Numerous
individuals suggested that the "Marias Pass" provided the most usable
route for Hill's railroad. In November 1887, the Great Falls
Tribune reported that W. D. Barclay, chief locating engineer of the
Manitoba Railroad had completed a preliminary survey to the head of the
Marias River. Some early residents of the Flathead Valley had approached
Hill about the feasibility of extending the railroad to their valley. In
December of 1887, Barclay was reported to have returned "from his
extended trip to the summit of the main range at Two Medicine Lodge
Pass." About a year later, in December 1888, the Deer Lodge, Montana,
New Northwest reported that Duncan McDonald "thinks if the
Manitoba wants a direct line with easy grades from tide-water to
tide-water they will strike directly west from [Fort] Assiniboine over a
fine prairie country to the Marias pass." Then, in 1889, former
Blackfeet Indian agent Maj. Marcus D. Baldwin traversed the Marias
region from Flathead Valley to the plains, advocated the use of Marias
Pass, and communicated its usability to Mr. Hill.
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James J. Hill completed his
transcontinental railroad route in 1803. While building a railroad was
his major concern, Hill also intended to develop and populate areas
adjacent to his railway. Rarely described as a conservationist, Hill
would be instrumental in supporting the establishment of Glacier as a
national park. (Courtesy of Burlington Northern, Inc.)
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Consequently, in December of 1889, the chief engineer
of Hill's Montana Central Railroad dispatched engineer John F. Stevens
to the Marias Pass area to verify these numerous reports. Though
encountering temperatures near forty below zero, Stevens and Coonsah, a
Flathead Indian guide, had little other difficulty in finding the pass
and confirming its feasibility for railroad location. Now the newly
organized Great Northern Railway (today's Burlington Northern) could be
constructed westward over one of the lowest passes (5216 feet) in the
entire Rocky Mountains, and John F. Stevens would enter railroad
folklore as the legendary "discoverer."
"Empire Builder" Hill made the decision to expand the
Great Northern to the coast, and in the spring of 1890, survey crews
determined the exact route over Marias Pass, down Bear Creek, and along
the Middle Fork through Bad Rock Canyon to the Flathead Valley. Workers
then constructed tote roads to carry supplies along the route and
finally, in April of 1891, the "gandy dancers" began laying track
westward from Cut Bank, Montana. By September they had reached the
summit of Marias Pass and on December 31, 1891, the railroad was
completed to Kalispell. Hill finished the Great Northern to the West
Coast in less than two years, making a new transcontinental system which
cut directly through a virtual wilderness visited previously by only a
handful of adventurous individuals.
Official surveys of the region also provided a means
to develop interest in the region, as noted by Lt. Van Orsdale in 1883.
When Lt. Samuel Robertson traveled to St. Mary Lakes in 1886 and Lt.
George P. Ahern crossed the Continental Divide in 1890, they both drew
maps and provided "official" recognition to the physical features of the
area. None of these official visits had the impact upon the region's
development and exploitation which mining expectations would engender or
which the Great Northern automatically brought.
Dutch Lui's publicized strike in the fall of 1889
spread to the mining centers of Butte, Helena, and Anaconda, and
numerous prospectors began to invade the region west of the Continental
Divide. One historian noted that there was not a single area on the west
side of the mountains that had not been prospected and claimed.
Historian James Sheire stated that eventually two thousand placer and
lode mining claims were staked throughout the park by over three hundred
different individuals. The pressure to exploit these resources and to
find a road to easy wealth was intensified by the discovery of oil
seepages near Kintla Lake in 1892, as well as copper and quartz veins
located during the early 1890s. Immediately prospectors and speculators
filed oil and mineral claims, but during the following year most
locations were abandoned because of the capital required to exploit
these resources.
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(Courtesy of Western History
Department, Denver Public Library)
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One of the earliest and best-known speculators of
Glacier's west side was "Aunty Collins" (Mrs. Elizabeth Collins, the
"Cattle Queen of Montana"), wife of rancher Nathaniel Collins of
Choteau, Montana. According to rather unreliable records, Mrs. Collins's
brother had prospected on upper Mineral Creek and located a quartz vein
which appeared promising. Mrs. Collins, along with a partner, Frank
McPartland, and several other investors, determined to extract copper
from the mine, and they worked for three summers and one winter at their
site on present-day Cattle Queen Creek. Aunty Collins "promoted a
company of St. Paul men" to supply capital for the venture, hired
eighteen men, and she acted as "cook and foreman." In 1894 or 1895,
Frank McPartland drowned while crossing Lake McDonald with Mrs. Collins
when their rowboat capsized. Some contemporaries indicated suspicious
circumstances were involved, and a few felt that Collins and McPartland
had been drinking heavily and were pursuing an argument. Regardless, the
Cattle Queen mining area proved of little value when "the mining expert
who came from St. Paul and examined the working declared that the vein
was lost and the best thing to do was to abandon everything." Mrs.
Collins went back to ranching, but a couple of years later got "gold
fever" and headed for the Klondike. Eventually she returned to Choteau
where she tended her sick husband until he died. Finally, the "Cattle
Queen" sold her ranch and moved to California.
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Mrs. Elizabeth Collins, the "Cattle
Queen of Montana," could never, resist the excitement of a mining rush.
From Cripple Creek to the Yukon, Mrs. Collins tried her best to strike
it rich. Her marriage to Nat Collins, a Choteau, Montana rancher, gave
her a transitory interest in the cattle business, but mining was in her
blood. For several years she worked and invested in the Cattle Queen
Mine along the headwaters of Glacier's Mineral Creek, hoping that copper
could be extracted. After considerable effort, the mine proved
fruitless. Mrs. Collins took her twenty-man crew and cut ties for the
railroad and then joined the rush to the Yukon in the late 1890s.
Eventually she returned to nurse her dying husband, and later moved onto
California. (Courtesy of Western History Department, Denver Public
Library)
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Prospectors roaming the mountains strayed across the
Continental Divide on to the Blackfeet Indian Reservation during the
early 1890s and discovered similar mineral outcroppings which appeared
promising. Pressure upon Congress came from Montana residents who
expected to have another major mining center. In 1895, George Bird
Grinnell, William C. Pollock, and Walter M. Clements were appointed
commissioners to negotiate with the Blackfeet over the sale of their
mountain land. Initially the tribal leaders asked three million dollars
for it, but after conceding that they had no use for the mountainous
region and deciding that they might lose it anyway, the Ceded Strip
(including all of Glacier Park east of the Continental Divide) was sold
for $1,500,000. According to some interpretations, the Blackfeet
retained rights of free entry, hunting, and forest exploitation. On
April 15, 1898, the area was declared open and a "rush" to stake claims
took place.
Without any question the "sooners" staked their
claims at previously located outcroppings. Locations on Rose Creek, on
Boulder Creek, at Cracker Lake, in the Swiftcurrent Valley, and above
Slide Lake appeared especially valuable in this flurry of mining
exploration. During this rush the boom town of Altyn near present-day
Many Glacier flourished as a center of mining activity. With an
estimated population ranging from 300 to over one thousand people in
1899, Altyn provided a center for the solitary prospectors and miners,
with stores, a post office, a hotel, a newspaper, numerous saloons,
cabins, and tents. While "copper, silver, and gold" kept a few digging
furiously at their claims, most of the speculators soon left for other
strikes, especially the Klondike in 1899 and 1900.
By 1902, most activity in the region had ceased, with
only a handful of "diehards" optimistically staying behind in their
fruitless attempt to extract wealth from these mountainsides. By 1910,
when Glacier National Park was finally formed, only a small number of
these consolidated claims remained. Specifically, the major claims
included the Bulls Head group operated by the Josephine Copper Mining
and Smelting Company in the Swiftcurrent Valley; the Reid Mining,
Milling and Smelting Co. (known as the Van Pelt claims) on the North
Fork of Kennedy Creek (today's Slide Lake area); and the Michigan and
Montana Copper Mining and Smelting Company at Cracker Lake. At the
Cracker Lake mine, a tunnel had been driven some thirteen hundred feet
into the mountain, including some four hundred feet along the vein. But
even though a sawmill was built, a concentrator erected, and assays
looked promising, a "well known mining expert of Helena, representing a
mining syndicate" examined the various locations and apparently
discouraged further development. The Cracker Lake concentrator never
operated, but individuals like Frank Stevenson, Mike Cassidy, and a few
others remained in the area, hoping eventually to prosper. Some of these
mining claims still remain in private ownership within Glacier
today.
At the same time mining interests were high,
petroleum claims again brought widespread interest in Montana in 1900
and 1901. According to historian Don Dauma, some Butte businessmen
revived interest in the Kintla Lake oil discovery, constructed a crude
road from Lake McDonald northward to the discovery site, and transported
some drilling equipment to the area. Montana's first attempt at oil
drilling began at Kintla Lake in November of 1901. Local speculators
formed other companies and an oil boom was initiated. Expectations were
optimistic as a contemporary publication noted: "Perhaps there is no
more beautiful region in the whole northwest than this virgin
wilderness, which the enterprise of man will soon convert into a
populous and busy territory, with all the industries of a great oil
field in full blast."
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By 1900, mining in the Swiftcurrent
Valley produced the "boom" town of Altyn and also a single-issue
newspaper, "The Swift Current Courier." Mining quickly proved a "bust"
but the consequent oil strike briefly brought renewed interest; however,
hope for quick profit soon vanished. With the optimism of a boom town
deflated, the newspaper disappeared and Altyn's population scattered to
more attractive mining districts. Only the rustic buildings and a
handful of diehards remained a decade later. (Courtesy of Western
History Department, Denver Public Library)
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After drilling for several years, the Kintla oil
speculation was a "bust" rather than a boom, and oil speculation turned
back to the Swiftcurrent Valley. According to D. H. Robinson, Altyn
hotel owner and miner Sam Somes was inspecting his claim after
dynamiting some rock and found pools of oil seeping through the rock.
Backed by some Great Falls businessmen, Somes organized the Montana
Swiftcurrent Oil Company. By 1902, oil drilling was under way. Somes
struck oil at the very shallow depth of five hundred feet. However,
further development required greater capital, and Somes supposedly took
a sample of the oil to Great Falls, where he proceeded to dramatize his
success by pouring oil on the desks of his potential patrons. Somes's
success brought a boom to the Swiftcurrent region between 1904 and 1906,
with "every acre of a sixty-mile-long and fifteen-mile-wide field
claimed by prospectors or speculators." Eventually twelve wells were
lost to water penetration and the field was virtually abandoned.
(Sherburne Lake reservoir presently covers most of the drilling sites).
During the boom, Mike Cassidy had located natural gas with his oil rig
and the Cassidy-Swiftcurrent Oil Company kept hopes alive for additional
exploitation in the region for several decades. Even though Cassidy
drilled to a depth of 2800 feet, only enough natural gas was produced to
heat and light his cabin. His claim was continued during the 1920s, and
finally, in 1958, the National Park Service obtained the land near the
Many Glacier entrance station from the Cascadia Development and
Production Company.
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Sam Somes found oil while mining in the
Swiftcurrent area. Hopes were high and small quantities of oil and gas
were extracted, but the petroleum ventures all failed leaving some
rusting rigs and broken-down cabins as evidence of that search.
(Courtesy of Glenbow-Alberta Institute)
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