Chapter Three:
EXPLORERS AND EXPLOITERS
. . . it seems an absurdity to retain it in the
category of forest reserves. This district and those adjoining it are of
no use whatever for . . . the maintenance of watersheds and the
conservation of the present water supply . . . the present conditions
and future necessities of the ever-extending mining operations in this
neighborhood, will speedily denude the country of its forests for mine
timbers, lumber and fuel.
The Swift Current Courier
1 September 1900
. . . a man can find anything he wants in this
region.
Charlie Howe, 1894
|
(Courtesy of Western History
Department, Denver Public Library)
|
People have always come to Glacier for very personal
reasons. The motivations which compel someone to travel several hundred
or several thousand miles to visit or to stay in these mountains may
vary among individuals, but these motives are generally personal and
self-centered, and occasionally selfish. Today a visitor comes to
Glacier to obtain "recreation," to hike, to view scenery different from
that which he is used to, to fish the lakes or streams, to exercise his
dormant muscles, or to get away from his urbanized environment. These
very individual demands have been met by the mountains of Glacier
National Park.
Similarly, the period following the American Civil
War brought a renewed interest in Glacier's mountains which was very
personal and very self-indulgent. Men came to prospect for minerals, to
hunt for animals, to establish homesteads, to develop businesses, or to
enjoy the scenery. However, these men were different from Glacier's
earlier visitorsthe Indians and the early explorersbecause
their visitation brought intentions of acquisition and exploitation as
well as a desire for economic gain. This is not to say that people in
the nineteenth century did not appreciate the "scenery" or enjoy the
country they lived in or visited. But, as one observer stated: "This
scenery doesn't put food on the table." Certainly their actions were
not illegal nor their activities out of step with the free-enterprise
capitalism evident throughout the West during this period. And as we
shall see later, some of these self-centered attitudes gave way to
higher purposes of preservation. But the story of Glacier's mountains
between 1860 and 1910 is basically one of human greed.
The search for mineral wealth was nothing new by the
1860s. Prospectors roamed through much of the Rocky Mountain West from
Colorado to Canada searching for quick wealth after the discovery of
gold. The early history of Montana is the story of one "rush" following
another with footloose prospectors combing the hills and mountains
between major "strikes," searching for "leads." In 1862, Montana
experienced its first major strikes when gold was located at both Gold
Creek and Bannack. The following year the rush turned to Virginia City
and Alder Gulch, with many frustrated prospectors leaving immediately
for British Columbia's Stud Horse (later Wild Horse) Creek diggings,
just fifty miles north of the border on the Kootenai River.
|
(Western History Department, Denver
Public Library)
|
By 1864, enough people had entered Montana to provide
a successful movement for territorial status and the first legislative
assembly was convened. One of the first acts the assembly passed
provided for the establishment of the "Fort Benton and Kootenai Wagon
Road Company." The intention of that act was to provide transportation
and communication between the newly located strikes on the Kootenai
River and the commercial center east of the mountains. This road was to
travel through Marias Pass and might have effectively opened that
section of Montana's mountains to travel, but Indian troubles, combined
with strikes elsewhere, meant the road plans would be abandoned by
1865.
During 1866 there was "excitement about the
Saskatchewan diggings" and American prospectors headed north to claim
their fortune on the gravel bars of that river system. But Indian
resistance to white incursions remained quite strong. One contemporary
reported that in 1867 alone, some three hundred "over venturesome miners
and prospectors were killed" by Indians as they searched the mountains
or crossed the northern plains in search of wealth.
Without question some of these overventuresome miners
visited the mountains of Glacier while heading toward British Columbia
or the Saskatchewan strikes or on their way back to Helena. Historian
Paul Sharp, writing in Whoop-Up Country, reported that during
1866, eighty prospectors led by James Fiske, explored the Upper Marias
drainages searching for mineral deposits, possibly as far north as
today's Glacier Park. The following year a group of prospectors led by
E. K. Jaques traveled from Missoula to the North Fork region. When
mistaken for an Indian, Jaques was shot through both legs by a
companion, and the entire party was forced to spend the following winter
camped in the area. By the spring of 1868, Jaques and his friends were
able to struggle back to the Flathead Valley. He then returned to the
East with a permanently withered leg to remind him of his visit to this
wilderness. James Willard Schultz also reported that a party of
prospectors led by Joseph Kipp explored the St. Mary Lakes region in
1869, becoming the "second white party" after Hugh Monroe to observe the
area. While Schultz's statement about who was first and who was second
is pure speculation, the fact that these prospecting parties were
entering the country is significant. Even though they failed in their
search, continued on into Alberta, or fled the area, they provided
evidence of early prospecting interest in the region.
Indian opposition to these incursions came to a swift
and devastating conclusion in 1870. Following some escalating incidents
between the Blackfeet and whites near Fort Benton and Helena, an early
Montana settler, Malcolm Clark, was killed by some Piegan, and the
demand for immediate retaliation echoed throughout the territory. Major
Eugene M. Baker was dispatched to punish the offending Indians. Instead
of finding the hostiles in a camp led by Mountain Chief, Baker
encountered a camp of smallpox-stricken Piegan led by Heavy Runner and
attacked them, killing 173 of the Indians, fifty-three of whom were
women and children. This controversial "Baker Massacre" ended organized
Indian resistance along Montana's front range. As H. L. Harrod reported
in Mission Among the Blackfeet, the Baker Massacre, combined with
a devastating smallpox epidemic and continuing white incursions, meant
that the Blackfeet lost more than half their population, placed their
social organization in "deep decay," and left them "utterly demoralized
as a people."
The end of Blackfoot resistance meant that miners and
traders could travel more freely through this country. During the 1870s,
several documented expeditions moved through the area. While the
accounts are partly unreliable, a party of prospectors led by Frank
Lehman proceeded over Marias Pass from the west and then crossed into
Alberta while searching for copper in 1870. Similarly, a group of Texans
led by William Veach supposedly conducted a prospecting trip through the
St. Mary region in 1876, discovered a thirty-ounce gold nugget near
Quartz Lake, and then left the area for California. By the late 1870s,
numerous parties had entered the Glacier region with men like Duncan
McDonald (for whom, some believe, Lake McDonald was named) transporting
supplies into Canada by way of the North Fork of the Flathead and
proceeding across Marias Pass numerous times.
|
The hope of finding quick wealth in
Montana's mountains brought an influx of prospectors and miners during
the 1860s. Early maps of the northern Rockies were labeled "Copper,
Silver, and Gold." Rushes to Bannack, Alder Gulch, and Last Chance Gulch
yielded wealth for, a very few miners while the overflow or disappointed
scoured nearby regions hoping to find a "lead" to the "mother lode."
(Western History Department, Denver Public Library)
|
The end of "Indian deviltry" introduced another type
of individual to the country east of Glacier during the 1870s. The
whiskey trader played upon the weakened condition of the Indians and
upon their desire for liquor. H. L. Harrod noted: "The spread of
liquor was especially devastating to the Blackfoot society because there
were no traditional social controls to protect individuals from the
effects of the powerful 'white man's water.'" Historian Ralph Beals
added: "Although there were exceptions, most of these traders were of
a very low class. Liquor flowed freely and the Indians were hopelessly
debauched. Gambling and lawlessness reached a true 'wild west'
pitch." Heavily fortified trading posts began to dot the plains east
of Glacier and northward into Alberta. One of the most infamous of these
was Fort Whoop-Up near today's Lethbridge, Alberta. Others, like Forts
Slideout, Spitzee, and Standoff, provided locations for the illicit
liquor trade. According to James Willard Schultz, John Kennedy
established a small whiskey post at the junction of the St. Mary River
and Kennedy Creek, near the northeast corner of today's park. This
outpost lasted only a short time, but Kennedy Creek remains as a
reminder of that period.
The illegal trade of liquor to the Indians was halted
by increased U.S. Army patrols and other federal agents in the region.
Numerous traders fled north of the border to escape local or federal
law-enforcement officials. Finally, the presence of the newly organized
Northwest Mounted Police in western Canada, after 1874, effectively
ended that kind of free enterprise among the Red Man. The damage done
was considerable. As a Catholic missionary stated: "In the summer of
1874, I was traveling amongst the Blackfeet. It was painful to me to see
the state of poverty to which they had been reduced. Formerly they had
been the most opulent Indians in the country, now they were clothed in
rags without horses and without guns."
The prospectors and whiskey traders led the way to
and through the mountains of northwestern Montana, but left little
evidence of their visits. Official surveys, with well-documented
observations, followed on their heels. By late summer of 1874, the North
West Boundary Commission, directed by U.S. Commissioner Archibald
Campbell and British Commissioner Capt. Donald R. Cameron, approached
Glacier's northern mountains. Coming from the east during August of
1874, the joint survey entered the mountainous region. Mute evidence of
Blackfoot presence was seen when the survey members found the bodies of
twenty slain Crow Indians just east of the foothills. During their
encampment at Waterton Lake, their pack animals were badly frightened by
a grizzly bear; members of the expedition toured the surrounding
mountains, rolled rocks down precipitous cliffs, fished the lakes and
streams, and observed the scenery and wildlife. Completing their task,
they left at the end of August and headed back east, having established
the mutual border between the two nations.
That same year two Army lieutenants from Fort Shaw
were directed to explore the country between Fort Colville in Washington
and the plains of Montana. Upon their return from Washington, the
lieutenants, Charles A. Woodruff and John Van Orsdale, proceeded north
from Flathead Lake, followed the Middle Fork of the Flathead River,
visited Lake McDonald (which they called Terry Lake in honor of their
commanding officer), continued up Nyack Creek, crossed Cut Bank Pass,
and returned to Fort Shaw. Substantially impressed with the country, Lt.
Van Orsdale would later be the first to suggest that this territory be
kept free of settlement and be made a national park.
The decade and a half following the Civil War changed
the complexion of the region surrounding Glacier. The Indians were
transformed from their position of power to a people racked with disease
and poverty. Prospectors began to explore this unopened region, leaving
only scattered reports of their activities. The official surveys came
and left, impressing only a few of their members with the grandeur of
the scene.
|