Chapter Three:
Exploration and Exploitation (1850-1885) (continued)
In all this activity there remained a gap. Trails and
even a wagon road now took travelers around the southern end of the
Sierra. Sheep and cattlemen, each jealously guarding their own
discoveries, poked through much of the range seeking forage; mineral
prospectors, too, combed the ridges seeking their fortunes. No one,
however, had yet attempted to explore and map the heart of the southern
Sierra for public purposes. Into this gap stepped the staff of the
California Geological Survey. Created by the state legislature in 1860
"to make an accurate and complete Geological Survey of the State, and to
furnish maps and diagrams thereof, with a full and scientific
description of the rocks, fossils, soils, and minerals, and of its
botanical and zoological productions, together with specimens of the
same," the survey was California's first formal public attempt to
inventory its resources. [18] In charge was
Josiah Dwight Whitney, forty-one years old and a graduate of Yale. Under
his supervision were several brilliant selections, especially William
Brewer, thirty-two at the time of his appointment and also a graduate of
the Yale Scientific School. To Brewer fell responsibility for
supervising the actual field activities of the survey.
Although the survey began work late in 1860, it was
not until 1864 that it turned its attentions to the Sierra Nevada.
During that wartime summer, while the fate of the nation was being
decided, Brewer and his men explored and mapped the Yosemite and Lake
Tahoe regions. At the end of the field season, Brewer added to the
survey team another young Yale Scientific School man, Clarence King.
Finally, in 1864, the survey focused on the largest remaining blank spot
on the map of California, the high country of the southern Sierra. From
the drought-ravaged San Joaquin Valley, Brewer led his men up into the
mountains along the divide between the Kings and Kaweah rivers. In early
June, they camped just west of modern Grant Grove near a recently
established logging enterprise called Thomas' Mill which was beginning
the assault on the timber resources of the Sierra. After reprovisioning,
and making a visit to the Big Trees now called Grant Grove, the survey
party struck out to the southwest following the ridges toward the higher
mountains. As they climbed high enough to begin to get a sense of the
country to the east and south, they noted many high peaks. Their plan,
based on the false assumption that the southern Sierra was structured
much like the Yosemite country, was to follow the Kings-Kaweah Divide to
the crest of the Sierra. Soon the ridge they were following rose up to
form a sharp granite peak. After a difficult scramble they attained the
summit, and the nature of the country ahead became much more
apparent.
It was June 28, 1864, when Brewer climbed and named
Mt. Silliman after the son of one of his Yale professors. From the
summit, now measured at 11,188 feet, Brewer got his first real
impression of the complexity of the southern Sierra. To the east and
north, forming the headwaters of the Kings River, could be seen an
endless jumble of canyons and barren, serrated ridges. To the southeast,
much closer, rose other peaks, equally high. To Brewer's surprise, a
number of the visible summits were obviously as high as anything in the
Yosemite country. The party named the highest visible summit in the
Kings River area Mt. Brewer, and since their original geographical
strategy for exploring the country had proven flawed, they now struck
out for this peak, which they hoped to ascend.
Several days of rough travel took the survey down off
the Silliman crest, across the Sugarloaf Valley and Roaring River Canyon
(which they called the South Fork of the Kings River) and up the canyon
at the west base of Mt. Brewer. On July 2, Brewer and Charles Hoffman
struggled up the steep, talus-guarded peak, and after several dead ends
finally found their way to the summit, which they correctly estimated to
be over 13,000 feet. The view stunned Brewer:
Such a landscape! A hundred peaks in sight over
thirteen thousand feetmany very sharpdeep canyons, cliffs in
every direction almost rival Yosemite, sharp ridges inaccessible to man,
on which human foot has never trodall combined to produce a view
of sublimity of which is rarely equaled, one which few are privileged to
behold. [19]
When they returned exhausted that evening to their
camp in the sparse, rocky forest below, Brewer and Hoffman shared the
important things they had seen. Mt. Brewer was not the highest peak in
the region, at least eight or nine were visibly higher, and the barren
alpine region they had glimpsed was totally unlike anything they had
seen elsewhere in the Sierra or expected to find here. From the summit
of Mt. Brewer they also had finally glimpsed the true climax of the
southern Sierra. The highest peaks in the Sierra, they now realized, lay
in a second ridge, hidden behind the peaks that formed the headwaters of
the Kaweah River. That night at camp, Brewer called the newly discovered
mountains the "Snow Group." Other had seen these mountains from the
Owens Valley, and they were visible also from points along the Hockett
Trail, but until Brewer and Hoffman's discovery, no one had seen them
from the west and recognized their true significance.
The "Snow Group," possibly the highest mountains in
the United States, captivated King immediately. Initially Brewer
resisted King's pleas to be allowed to make a closer reconnaissance.
Supplies were short and the intervening country looked impossibly
difficult. King was persistent, however, and Brewer, truthfully, every
bit as fascinated. On July 4, with Brewer's blessing and crude knapsacks
filled with six days' provisions, King and Dick Cotter set out to
explore the highest mountains in the United States.
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From the shoulder of Mt. Brewer, they attempted to
follow the Brewer Ridge (now called the Great Western Divide) south to
the Kings-Kern Divide. Finding this impossible, they dropped down into
the headwaters country of East Creek, and then climbed onto the
Kings-Kern Divide. On the second day they got over the divide, using
ropes to lower themselves down the cliffs, and then headed out across
the alpine landscape that gives birth to the Kern River. The "Snow
Group" was now immediately before them, and they made for what had
appeared to be the highest peak from Mt. Brewer. Reaching the summit
after considerable difficulty (which was exaggerated rather shamelessly
in King's later writings), they found themselves again frustrated. From
the summit yet higher mountains were visible immediately to the south.
From Mt. Brewer they had named the summit they had already climbed Mt.
Whitney after their chief, and the new highest peak King called Mt.
Grant in his notes. Several days later, however, when they finally made
their way back to Brewer's camp, it was decided that the highest peak
should be Mt. Whitney and the lower mountain became Mt. Tyndall. Also
named at the same time were Mt. Williamson, Table Mountain, and
Milestone Mountain.
From their reunited camp at the foot of Mt. Brewer,
the surveyors moved on. They dropped into the great canyon of the South
Fork of the Kings River, where they met some prospectors. They attempted
to cross the Monarch Divide into the Middle Fork Canyon, but found the
country too difficult. Noting and naming Mt. Goddard and the Palisades,
still the preeminent landmarks of the upper Kings, they made their way
east over the Sierra Crest via Kearsarge Pass and dropped into the Owens
Valley. Later in the summer they explored the headwaters of the San
Joaquin, located Mt. Goddard from the north, and then tied that country
in with the already known Yosemite peaks.
In one summer, the California Geological Survey
permanently changed the map of California. It confirmed the presence,
already locally suspected, of the highest mountains in the United
States, located and named the major landmarks, and, unlike nearly
everyone else who had been into the high country, made its discoveries
public. From the surveyors' efforts came the first reasonable maps of
the southern Sierra and a number of popular and broadly read books. Even
today, Brewer's Up and Down California and King's
Mountaineering in the Sierra Nevada remain in print. Yet, in
another way they added very little to what had already been discovered
by Jedediah Smith, Joseph Walker, and John Fremontthe heart of the
southern Sierra was a rugged, hostile place, best avoided unless one
could find something of value within its forbidding granite recesses.
[20]
King's fascination with Mt. Whitney did not end. He
unsuccessfully attempted to climb Whitney from the southeast later in
1864, and returned in 1871, when, in a climb obscured by clouds, he made
a successful attempt on what he thought was Whitney, but actually was
later proven to be what is now Mt. Langley. After that confusion was
publicized in 1873, King returned again and made it to the top of
Whitney, only to discover that others had preceded him that summer. [21]
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