Chapter One:
The Natural World of the Southern Sierra (continued)
At the end of the sixteenth century, before a single
European had entered the great valley that is the true heart of
California, before anyone but Native Americans had seen the mountains we
call the Sierra Nevada, the world that now contains Sequoia and Kings
Canyon national parks at its center was an unseamed, unitary whole.
From the human point of view, and humans were already
very much a part of the landscape, the heart of the region was the tule
swamp later known as Tulare Lake and the oak forests that insulated the
rivers from the surrounding dry grassland. The lake itself, if seen from
the air, was a giant oval of concentric rings. The innermost ring, miles
across, was open water, too deep for tules or other reeds, but green
with other kinds of floating life made possible by the warm water of
summer. Closer to the lakeshore were miles of the thick tules that would
ultimately share their Spanish name with the lake itself. Six to ten
feet tall, grey-green and tubular, the tules were a world unto
themselves, endless and regular.
On the eastern side of the lake, opposite the dry
rolling hills of the coastal mountains, the marshlands fringed into the
oak forest. If still on wing an observer would look down into an
inconsistent and confusing forest of dark, drooping, rounded oaks and
slightly higher and drier islands of grass. Scattered along the
meandering streams, the bright green marshes added another hue. The
forest belt of the Kaweah River averaged perhaps fifteen miles in width.
To the north and south brown, open grassland stretched toward seeming
infinity; herds of pronghorn and tule elk lived in the brown openness.
To the east, distantly visible above the oak forest, rose a miles-high
blue and grey mountain wallthe Sierra Nevada.
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No clear and abrupt color line separated the foot of
the Sierra from the valley. The first foothills did arise abruptly from
the surrounding prairie, but they shared the same colors and textures as
the lowlands they bordered. A little higher up, more commonly on the
slightly less severe northern slopes of the lowest hills, the first of
the dryland oaks appearedwell-spaced compact trees making no
pretense at being a forest. Above, on the looming mountain face, darker
and denser forests began to come into view. These were the forests that
gave the mountain its dark blue cast on clear days from the distant
lake. First there were oak forests of increasing density, then steep,
thick mountainsides of intertwined brush, and finally the great conifer
forest itself.
The forest of tall, densely packed angular trees rose
steadily, rank upon row, up the steep flanks of the Sierrabroken
only occasionally by a small, wet meadow or a gleaming, gray-granite
dome or ledge. Above the forest, visible from a hundred miles away, the
granite asserted itself at last as the dominant and crowning feature of
the rangeclean and spare, angular and symmetrical. Bare rock in
summer; shining ice in winter and spring. And above the rock, on hot
summer afternoons, would grow towering blue-white thunderstorms, rising
another four or six miles into the sky.
All this was visible to any creature who chose to
look. And looking at this land already, and changing it, were thousands
of people. It is time to remember them.
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