Chapter One:
The Natural World of the Southern Sierra
THE SIERRA NEVADA DEFINES the interior of California
in a way that overwhelms all other topographic features. The "great
snowy mountain range" takes its name from the description offered by a
Spanish explorer in 1776. Missionary Pedro Font first saw the snowy
mountains, "una gran sierra nevada," from the low hills that
separate San Francisco Bay from the Great Central Valley of California.
His vista disclosed the central portion of the rangethe area that
in 1848 would become the focus of the gold rush which began the modern
history of California. Altogether the Sierra is nearly 400 miles long
with the northern end of the range often defined as Lake Almanor, near
Lassen Peak and the southern end at Tehachapi Pass. [1]
For the northern two-thirds of its length the Sierra
has a striking consistency. The crest is consistently very far east of
the center of the range, and long river canyons drain the deeply eroded,
but relatively gentle, western slope. North of Yosemite National Park,
which is near the midpoint of the range, only a small part of the Sierra
is above timberline. From Yosemite south, however, the range is higher
and more rugged. Starting at Mt. Dana, just south of Yosemite's Tioga
Pass, and continuing south for more than a hundred air miles, the crest
consists of continuous high sharp peaks, each succesively more rugged.
The ultimate summits of the Sierra rise near the southern end of this
high, barren land, in the headwaters of the Kings and Kern rivers.
Despite the increasing heights of the ridges, the
Sierra Nevada retains its westerly trending drainage pattern as far
south as the Kings River canyons. The two major forks of the Kings River
are born on summit peaks very near the eastern edge of the mountains and
flow through long deep canyons down the west side of the mountains to
the San Joaquin Valley. In the region of the Kaweah and Kern rivers,
however, the shape and texture of the Sierra change radically. South of
the Kings River, the Sierra Nevada has a double crest. The main crest,
and home of the highest peaks in the range, remains far to the east, but
a second, parallel, crest appearsthe Great Western Divide. West of
the divide the five forks of the Kaweah River drop steeply into the San
Joaquin Valley. East of the Great Western Divide, but still west of the
Sierran crest, is the fifteen-mile-wide canyon complex of the Kern
River, draining not west, like every other Sierran river, but instead
south for many miles, and finally, even reluctantly, west into the
extreme southern end of the San Joaquin Valley.
These two factorsthe presence of the highest
peaks in the Sierra, and the well-spaced double crest with extensive
uplands betweenmake the southern Sierra very different from the
remainder of the range. Nowhere else is the Sierra so high. Nowhere else
are the canyons so rugged and deep. And nowhere else does the Sierra
rise so steeply from the west. The peaks of the Great Western Divide are
much closer to the floor of the Great Central Valley than any other
alpine area in the range. At the headwaters of the Middle Fork of the
Kaweah River, summits over 12,000 feet high are less than thirty air
miles from the nearly-sea-level valley floor. In the Yosemite and Tahoe
regions the distance is much greater.
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