City of Rocks Historic Resources Study

Resources historically associated with westward migration include:

• Trail ruts and topographical indicators of trail routes

• Inscription rocks

• Geological landmarks with cultural value and historically important viewsheds

• Encampment sites.

The first type of resource, includes both small-scale elements such as discontiguous segments of trail ruts, as well as areas where natural features (either grade or topography) define the trail route. Trail ruts are sets of parallel tracks left by the wagon wheels. In some areas, only a single pair of tracks is visible (Figure 19), in others (most notably in Section 23 T16S/R23E), several pairs of tracks occur roughly parallel to each other. Single sets of tracks tend to occur in topographically restricted areas, multiple alignments tend to occur in more level areas where drivers were able to spread out and travel abreast of one another. Multiple tracks may also be an indication of the need to avoid certain obstacles (e.g., a mud hole after a summer thundershower, or an eroded boulder).

Figure 19. Single set of trail ruts on north side of Pinnacle Pass - view to north.

The second indicators of trail alignments are topographic restrictions — usually ridge saddles or canyons. The entry into the Circle Creek basin at the northeast edge of the reserve is a good example of a canyon restriction. Here, the close alignment of three steep topographic features restricts travel from the upper Raft River valley into the Circle Creek basin to two narrow passages on either side of a small steep-sided knoll (Figures 20 and 21).

Figure 20. Looking west to City of Rocks entrance near Circle Creek. California Trail passed on either side of the small conical knoll in center of photo. View is from county road west of the City of Rocks National Reserve.

Figure 21. Looking east from inside the Circle Creek basin to the small conical knoll and the two routes of the California Trail. Raft River valley visible in rear-ground of photo.

Within the reserve, Pinnacle Pass (10CA590) is probably the most prominent topographic restriction — located in the middle of a long continuous ridge of eroded granite, and marked on the west side by the Twin Sisters. Traveling east to west, emigrants would have faced a gradual ascent on the north side, followed by a steeper descent on the south. A distinct set of ruts is found on both the north and south sides of this pass (Figure 22) through an area containing moderately deep soil and vegetated primarily with sagebrush, except at the summit, where bedrock lies very close to the surface. [299]

Figure 22. Trail ruts on south side of Pinnacle Pass - view to north.

The inscription rocks are primarily located in the vicinity of the Circle Creek basin. A total of eleven monolithic granite outcroppings have been previously identified that contain inscriptions (10CA564, 575, 585, 586, 587, 588, 589, 591, 595, 596 and 597). These include the principal rock formations such as Camp Rock (Figure 23) and Register Rock (Figure 24), as well as less prominent formations (Figures 25 and 26). Inscriptions are barely visible on some rocks, having been badly eroded by wind (Figure 27). The most common inscriptions include the name of the transcriber and the date of the inscription, and are painted on the rocks with axle grease (Figure 28). A few inscriptions are incised — a more time-consuming process.

Figure 23. Camp Rock (10CA504) to right with "Elephant head" and "Pagoda" (10CA585) to left - view to east.

Figure 24. Register Rock (10CA574). View is to south from County Road - formerly the California Trail.

Figure 25. Site 10CA591 - the "Monkey Head" - view to east.

Figure 26. Detail of inscriptions at the "Monkey's Head" - 10CA591.

Figure 27. Detail of eroded inscription at 10CA596, "Kaiser's Helmet."

Figure 28. Detail of inscriptions on Register Rock.

Within the reserve the most obvious example of natural features with cultural significance is the "rock city" that rims the Circle Creek basin. The basin is reported to have been a preferred campsite for emigrants, graced with a reliable source of water and a natural meadow. Emigrants on the main California Trail would have seen the outcroppings above the Little Cove while they were still in the main Raft River valley. However, it is within the Circle Creek basin that the effect of the outcroppings is most strongly felt. Although it is actually quite large (one and one-quarter miles east/west by three-quarters of a mile north/south), the huge scale of the rocks makes the basin appear smaller and more sheltered than it actually is (Figures 29 and 30). It is not until one walks from one side of the basin to the other and stands at the base of a large outcrop that one realizes their great size. The viewshed of the Circle Creek basin, incorporating all lands from the stream channel to the top of the peaks that encircle the basin, represents a historically important view and setting for the Circle Creek encampment and the California Trail. [300]

Figure 29. Looking southwest into Circle Creek basin from main City of Rocks access road.

Figure 30. Looking north across Circle Creek basin to granite formations that rim the basin.

Another area that likely was used as an encampment is the basin northeast of the ridge that contains the Twin Sisters and Pinnacle Pass. Although this area does not appear to contain as reliable a water supply as the Circle Creek basin, several springs are located in the vicinity. The broad expanse of the basin bottom would have provided forage for livestock, and the area in general was a place to rest before the last uphill pull to Pinnacle Pass. As stated previously, this basin is marked by the Twin Sisters — a prominent landmark — and by the rocky ridge and series of bedrock outcrops that rim the west side of the basin. Like the Circle Creek basin, this area represents a historically important setting for the California Trail.

A separate discussion of the cultural importance of the Twin Sisters is warranted. Both travelers on the main California Trail (Figure 31) and those using the Salt Lake Alternate commented on this formation. For those using the Salt Lake Alternate, the Twin Sisters was the only component of the City of Rocks observable from the trail (see Figure 3). It marked the junction of the two trails, and for a few, the final point for choosing between California and Oregon as their final destination.

Figure 31. The Twin Sisters viewed from the Twin Sisters basin - view to west.

The drainage that contains the junction of the two trails also represents a historically important setting. Here, the Cedar Hills block further southerly progress; east/west progress is facilitated by a breaks in the topography of the hills. The Salt Lake Alternate enters the reserve from the east, through Emigrant Canyon. Westward travel along the combined routes proceeds up a gentle incline, and then down into the valley of Junction Creek.

The historically significant viewsheds described above are integral to the City of Rocks cultural landscape; their integrity is critical to the integrity of the cultural landscape as a whole. Consideration should be given to enlarging the reserve boundary to include the components of historically significant viewsheds that are located outside the present reserve boundary.