Canyon de Chelly Administrative History

Two Navajo-related problems were settled at de Chelly in January 1961. The first concerned unwanted or stray dogs. Because of the appearance of several dogs in the area, it was decided that such animals would be held for a period of 5 days at the pound, and if they were not claimed within that time, they would be put to sleep. This was a policy accepted by Berger, the Bureau, and the Navajos. [130]

The other problem concerned a Navajo ordinance that stated that all sanitary inspections of concession facilities within Park Service areas be done by the Navajo tribe. Since the Public Health Service conducted such inspections at de Chelly, the Navajos accepted their findings and did not conduct a separate examination. [131]

Berger also reported that Canyon de Chelly had procured three FM radios: one base station and two mobiles. The radios were "obtained free of charge from excess property." Berger hoped to install the system immediately. [132]

Canyon de Chelly received national recognition in an article in the February 24 issue of Life magazine. The article concerned vacation areas in the Southwest, and two pictures of Canyon de Chelly National Monument with brief descriptions were included. [133]

Preliminary plans for the building of a "10 Unit Motel type building" at the Thunderbird were sent to Washington and the regional director on March 17 for approval. La Font hoped that it would be in operation in time for the busy summer months. [134]

Special Easter sunrise services were held for the Chinle community at the White House Overlook on April 2. Over fifty people attended what Berger thought was "a very impressive" affair. [135]

Construction of the new comfort station was virtually complete. The staking of 23 camping units for the campground expansion was under way and several trees were marked for clearing purposes. [136]

An environmental health survey on de Chelly was conducted by Irving M. Terzich, National Park Service sanitary engineer, and his report contained valuable information on the facilities. Berger accompanied Terzich on his tour of the monument. Listed in this work were visitation figures from 1954 to 1961. They indicate an increase of 210 percent since 1954:

Studies were conducted on the water supply and on sewage disposal. Several recommendations were made to improve the quality of the facilities. [138]

In 1961 Berger again reported the most significant events at de Chelly for the year:

1. Addition to the Navajo Reservation Road Network by the Bureau of Indian Affairs.

2. Completion of Water and Sewer Systems and Electrical Distribution Systems.

3. Approval and Completion of Sale of Thunderbird Ranch and Trading Post on December 8, 1960.

4. Construction of Three Residences and filling of 2 additional positions as a result of housing facilities.

5. Construction of a Campground Comfort Station and expansion of the Campground by 23 sites. [139]

Interpretive services in the form of illustrated evening programs resumed on June 10. That month, 1,220 people attended the talks, which were presented seven nights a week. Aiding in the program was Seasonal Ranger Frank L. Plettenberg. The nightly programs were:

Besides a somewhat favorable report on the decrease of "Ips" infestation, construction on the roads and camping spurs for the 23 additional camping sites was almost completed. [141] Drives, walks, and patios were also completed and paved for the three new residences. [142]

An unusual flash flood occurred at de Chelly on July 21 and caused undue misery. Two vehicles were completely covered by the oncoming water, but fortunately the occupants were able to get to high ground. The vehicles were later recovered: one was salvageable while the other was a complete loss. [143]

A wealth of knowledge about the proposed 15-exhibit plan for Canyon de Chelly was contained in a report submitted on July 19. The program was alloted $30,000 for construction and installation of exhibits. Each display was detailed and the titles included: "The beginnings of Pueblo Life: about A.D. 1 to 450," "Cliff Dwellings: about A.D. 1200 to 1300," "The Long Walk," and "The Navajos Today." Artifacts, photographs, and other illustrative matter were to be contained in the cases. [144]

Visitation was very good during August, with 4,580 people counted. The Thunderbird Ranch had 720 overnight guests, and 437 people took jeep tours into the canyon. [145] La Font wrote Senator Carl Hayden at the end of the month describing the operation and inviting him to visit the "beautiful Canyon." More specifically, however, La Font wrote the Senator in regard to the electrical service prices. The electrical service was furnished by the Bureau at Chinle, and La Font believed the rate of 7¢ per kilowatt "exhorbitant [sic] and works a real hardship. The power bill for the preceding 12 months at the Thunderbird was $4,714.54. He hoped that the Senator would assist in trying to reduce the rate. [146]

Stabilization work was done by Roland Richert and Joel Shiner at Mummy Cave in September. Aiding them in their work were eight Navajo laborers. Their work included repair of breaks at the base and of the walls and ceiling. When they left, they said that another season was needed to finish up. [147]

A report on the major ruins at Canyon de Chelly was made by Regional Archeologist Charlie Steen at the end of September. He commented on the erosion and subsequent repairs needed at Mummy Cave, White House, and Antelope House. [148]

As the year ended, the Park Service presented a series of 15 programs that were filmed in National Park Service areas. These were shown on television stations throughout the United States and were included in the "What's New" series on the National Education Television Network. Included among the programs was "Navajo Life at Canyon de Chelly National Monument." [149] Berger received a letter from the director of special projects concerning the Canyon de Chelly program, which he felt was "one of the very finest in the series. . . ." [150]

Berger received authorization at the beginning of February 1962 to use frequency 32.02 MC/S for his two mobile units. The call signs assigned were KB7898 and KB7899, and Berger was asked to supply the license numbers of the vehicles that would be using these numbers. [151] Supervisory Ranger Homer A. Robinson began installing the radio equipment in the ranger vehicles, having already installed the base station at the administration building. [152]

In order to assure success in acquiring specimens for the proposed museum exhibits, Berger was advised to make a list of the items already at Canyon de Chelly. In addition, he was asked to

arrange a schedule for obtaining the necessary photographs, especially those of a seasonal nature, such as flower and plant pictures; and please submit to us, as soon as possible, a complete list of the items or photographs which may be difficult for you to obtain. This will make it possible for us to give you the maximum help without having to spend extra money on crash programs or rush jobs. [153]

The Navajo Tribal Council adopted a set of regulations pertaining to trailer parking on the Navajo Reservation, which would be effective on December 21, 1961. Berger surmised that

the reason behind the Ordinance was the great number of Construction Camps with the resulting mess scattered about the reservation. They are also interested in the construction of Trailer Courts and are trying to include the National Park Service Campground at Canyon de Chelly under the Tribal Ordinance. The Tribal Sanitarian is trying to give us some static regarding our campground meeting the standards as stated in the Ordinance. The local Public Health Service Sanitary Engineer agrees with us regarding the Jurisdiction of the Navajo Tribe within the Monument boundaries however, the Tribal Sanitarian is inclined to be a bit officious. [154]

Navajos also reported the killing of sheep by black bears, although no one on the de Chelly staff had seen any. The Navajo Tribal Park Service and a Government trapper hunted unsuccessfully for the animals. Another incident involved an Indian killing a beaver, which was a violation of regulations. The tribal ranger prosecuted the case, and the Indian received a $25 fine. [155]

Berger reported in May that the Navajo Tribal Utility Authority of Window Rock was going to furnish electricity to the Chinle Subagency. This was to be done by July 1 or sooner. Berger said that "at that time the Chinle Sub-agency generating plant will cease operations and Canyon de Chelly will be furnished electricity by NTUA." [156] In addition, the Utility Authority planned

to tie their lateral to the Canyon de Chelly power line at Garcia's store and in order to have uninterrupted power at the Monument, NTUA is asking for a Use Permit allowing NTUA to connect to the Canyon de Chelly Power distribution line, take over the Maintenance and Operation of the system and to bill the occupants of existing quarters, Offices etc. and the Thunderbird Ranch individually. [157]

The Utility Authority rate schedule for power at Chinle had not yet been approved by the Bureau, but Berger said that he had been "assured by NTUA officials that it will be considerable [sic] less than we are presently paying to the Bureau of Indian affairs, Chinle." The proposed rate was estimated at .04 per kilowatt-hour. [158] The contract was signed on June 6, 1962, and the minimum charge was $3 per month per meter installation. [159] As a result, Berger observed that "electric power supply is greatly improved at the Monument." [160]

The Thunderbird requested that the Utility Authority install two streetlights as a preventive of vandalism and as a safety factor. [161] Berger conveyed this request to the regional director, and also included an appeal from Ray and Bessie Martin, Navajos, to connect their home to the power line at the Thunderbird Ranch. [162] Berger was informed that La Font could install the two lights and that "the alignment proposed for carrying power to the Ray and Bessie Martin quarters appears satisfactory." [163] A "Land Use Permit " was issued to the Martins for their hookup. [164]

The Utility Authority, after many petitions and requests from residents living near the Canyon del Muerto community, extended electrical service to that area. [165] It would supply a 14,440-volt transmission, which would cross the wash "between the Garcia Trading Post and the Presbyterian Mission," a distance of approximately 1,090 feet. Berger stated that

due to the length of the span, there will be two H structures, one on each bank which will be on the horizon looking West from the Park service proposed Visitor Center. From the H structure on the northeast bank of the wash, the transmission line will follow in a minor wash for about one half mile. From that point it will be on high ground and will be constructed on the North side of the Del Muerto road to the Del Muerto community. There will undoubtedly be laterals that will cross the road onto Monument lands to consumers along the route. [166]

After a flood in Canyon del Muerto destroyed an irrigation structure above Twin Trails, the Navajos requested that the structure be repaired. The cost was estimated at $900, and local Navajos were to be employed as workers. [167]

On September 9, Philleo Nash, Commissioner of Indian Affairs, arrived in Chinle. He was to tour Canyon de Chelly and inspect the Chinle Boarding school, the Compound, and the Subagency area. He never got to de Chelly, because he was "hauled to the Chapter House by the local Chapter President." This meeting lasted until 5:10 P.M., and Nash was due at Gray Mountain, 200 miles away, at 7:30. [168]

At the meeting, the question of returning Canyon de Chelly to the Navajos was brought up. Nash responded with the following remarks:

1. Were the Navajoes [sic] able to take care of and operate an area of this kind? He understood that their Monument Valley Project had to have $40,000 in addition to the revenue taken-in at the entrance station during 1961.

2. Since Canyon de Chelly was authorized by Congress and belonged to the people of the United States as well as the Navajo Indians, Congress would have to authorize its return to the Navajoes [sic].

3. The proposition must be agreeable to the Director of the National Park Service and the Secretary. [169]

Berger concluded that "Commissioner Nash was friendly, patient, and cooperative during the entire day, but did not seem to be entirely in sympathy with the proceedings. The meeting was arranged by the Navajo Tribal Officials with the Bureau personnel as advisors and escorts." [170]

Nash requested information about Canyon de Chelly from Berger, "the Monument Concessions Contractor, and others with knowledge of the monument and the canyon." [171] His first question concerned the concessions contract at de Chelly and how it related to the Navajos. They were to receive 1-1/2 percent of the gross income and were to be employed "whenever possible." During the peak of 1962, 19 Navajos were employed out of a total of 27 employees. During September, 14 of the 21 employees were Navajos, of whom 3 worked at the trading post, 9 worked in the lodge and cafe, and 2 were drivers of the guided tours into the canyon. It was further reported that the Park Service employed 6 Navajos out of a total force of 12 employees at the monument. [172]

Concerning the Navajo right to rent horses for canyon rides, figures showed that five Navajos rented horses to tourists during the 1962 season. Their maximum income from one day's rental of horses was approximately $50. [173]

Finally, the last bit of information requested by Nash concerned domestic water development. There was no restriction on Navajos drilling wells for domestic water. However, the Park Service furnished about 75,000 gallons of free water monthly to Navajo families in the canyon area. [174]

On December 14, 1962, Meredith Guillet was assigned to Canyon de Chelly as assistant superintendent. His main duty was to handle Navajo affairs. The reasoning behind such an appointment was as follows:

The Secretary of the Interior and the Director are desirous of coordinating all mutual interests of the Navajo Tribe and the National Park Service. Meredith Guillet with his knowledge of and previous experience with the Navajos, his interest in those people and his reasonable ability to converse in their own language is a natural choice to handle such an assignment. [175]

A fire hazard inspection was held on June 7 by Supervisory Park Ranger Roy G. Rainey and Seasonal Ranger Larry Thomas. Most of the buildings were found to be satisfactory, but some had substandard wiring. [176]

Berger, in order to improve the slide collection at de Chelly, wrote to the Southwestern Monuments Association for new slides on various national parks and monuments in Utah, Colorado, New Mexico, and Arizona. They were to be used in the evening campfire programs. [177] In July Berger received 97 slides free of charge from the association, and five more were promised at a later date. [178]

Besides acquiring new slides, Berger received a request from Yellowstone National Park for slides on Canyon de Chelly. [179] Berger supplied two slides with a synopsis of each one. The first slide was of White House and was accompanied by information on its history. The other slide was a fall scene at Canyon de Chelly and emphasized the fall colors and the Navajos living in the canyon. [180]

Canyon de Chelly received recognition in an article entitled "After Six Centuries of Silence: Life Again In Mummy Cave." The article was written by Richard Dunlop and appeared in the August 1962 issue of Popular Mechanics. [181] Dunlop was sent by the magazine to join Archeologists Richert and Shiner and their Navajo crew, who were undertaking stabilization work at Mummy Cave. Besides providing excellent pictures of the work being done there, Dunlop presented information on Canyon de Chelly's history.

La Font opened his new 10-unit motel at the Thunderbird on July 15. Each of the new units contained two double beds. [182] Apparently the new operation was very successful, because La Font was planning to construct a 12-unit motel for the 1963 season. [183]

Canyon de Chelly was included in the NPS Billionth Visitor Day observance on August 22. The plan was to select simultaneously, at precisely 12:35 P.M., the billionth visitor to the 192 areas administered by the National Park Service. Berger explained

that while it was virtually impossible to determine exactly which visitor to the National Park System was actually the billionth, statistical data maintained by the Service permit us to draw a reasonably reliable conclusion that today the billionth visitor will actually enter one of the parks. [184]

The fortunate visitor was Perry White and his family from Bluewater, New Mexico. White was taken on a personally conducted tour of Canyon de Chelly, entertained at the Thunderbird Lodge, and presented a certificate "naming him as the one selected to represent CANYON DE CHELLY NATIONAL MONUMENT on this occasion" at a special evening program. [185]

A question arose over the exclusion of the Adahoonligii, the Navajo-language newspaper, from one of the planned museum exhibits entitled "The Navajos Today." Because it was no longer published, having been superceded by the English-language Navajo Times, and because it really did not tie in with the theme of the exhibit, it was eliminated from consideration. [186]

Berger submitted a report in December about picnicking at Canyon de Chelly. He viewed it as an "important activity due to the lack of eating establishments in the general area." [187] Picnickers consisted of whites and Navajos in family parties and organized groups. Berger stated that 75 percent of the picnickers were local and 25 percent were visitors. In addition, Berger said that there were special areas at the headquarter's campground (six tables and water) and near Spider Rock Overlook (six tables, fireplaces, and restrooms) for picnicking. There was no real policy regarding picnicking activities at de Chelly, although campers and picnickers were segregated. [188]

One of the major incidents, besides one of the most unfortunate, of 1962 was a dispute that arose between Superintendent Berger and David De Harport, who was working for the Navajo tribe at the time. It lasted for over 6 months, and a large amount of correspondence was exchanged between the parties involved.

De Harport received from Director Edward B. Danson of the Museum of Northern Arizona a permit to do work under their auspices at Canyon de Chelly. [189] He then wrote to Berger notifying him of the permit. [190]

The permit was "a non-exclusive departmental permit for calendar year 1962" for "archeological and paleontological research, excavation, and collecting on Interior Department lands in all of Mohave, Yavapai, Coconino, Navajo, and Apache Counties, Arizona and portions of San Juan, Kane, and Garfield Counties, Utah, along the Colorado River and the San Juan and southern tributaries." [191] However, before work could be started by one holding such a permit, advance approval from the superintendent of the area was required relative to:

1. The scope and manner of conducting such survey.

2. The sharing of scientific survey data, including duplicate paleontological material if desired. [192]

This was the crux of the dispute. Even though Berger received word that De Harport was working under such a permit, apparently De Harport did not in the beginning submit the required prerequisites for such work. Also, De Harport needed to have some type of titular appointment that connected him officially with the museum. [193]

Moreover, De Harport wrote Dr. Bryant Bannister at the University of Arizona requesting him to write Berger authorizing De Harport to do some dendrochronological work. [194] This was done. Berger's reply, however, stated that De Harport had to get a special collecting permit which he did not have. If he got such a permit, said Berger, he could do the work. "Any work that Deharport [sic] does in the Canyon," declared Berger, "other than as a regular Monument visitor, is without permission and is unauthorized." [195]

Berger apparently was under pressure to allow De Harport to do the work anyway. The assistant regional director wrote him and said he should allow De Harport to do his work because cooperation of the Park Service "with both the Navajo Tribe and the Museum of Northern Arizona is obviously essential." [196] He asked Berger to justify his "reluctance" in not letting De Harport do his field work and "if necessary" to include a "confidential memorandum outlining any background factors causing your opposition." [197]

Berger's reply was as follows:

We have hesitated to issue a collecting permit to Dr. David Deharport due to the fact that he will not or cannot present any documentation relating to his status with the Museum of Northern Arizona; second, his extremely careless attitude regarding the stipulations of the museums permit and; third; the fact that he appears to feel that the permit gives him complete authority to excavate and collect other than surface materials. [198]

Berger said that he had tried to cooperate with De Harport and would continue to do so. However, De Harport had not classified the scope and purpose of his work as required by the permit issued to him. [199]

In the meantime, De Harport apparently believed everything was all right and wrote Berger that he would be at Canyon de Chelly to begin work. [200] Berger, however, refused to allow him to commence activities, and De Harport later wrote Berger that he was sorry that he "left the impression of being hostile to the U.S. National Park Service," apparently the result of trouble between the two men over this incident. [201]

De Harport, towards the end of July, brought up the issue of illegal excavation activities by pothunters at de Chelly. [202] The only mention of this dispute in the superintendent's monthly reports appeared in July, when Berger wrote:

Considerable time has been spent with Dr. David Deharport, archeologist and Land Claims representative of the Navajo Tribe to prevent unauthorized collecting of artifacts from the Canyons. Dr. Deharport claims to be working for the Museum of Northern Arizona but can produce no permit to show any connection with the Museum. [203]

Pursuant to this charge of illegal excavations, the regional chief advised an archeologist to go immediately to Canyon de Chelly and see if "unauthorized collecting or digging" was going on. [204] Reports later submitted, on the whole, discredited De Harport's charges.

Archeologist Albert H. Schroeder found one site that was "hit hard" by vandalism. [205] Other reports were less favorable to De Harport's claim. Regional Archeologist Charlie R. Steen stated that although De Harport reported vandalism at a half dozen sites, the damage was of a minor nature. De Harport's report of large-scale digging at Duck Rock Site was also disproved. Steen did admit there was frequent illicit digging at de Chelly, but doubted if any "large groups of pottery or other materials" were taken from the canyons. In concluding his report, Steen said "I am fairly confident, however, that no consistent or large scale pot hunting is going on within the Monument." [206] A similar report was submitted by the regional chief of ranger services who contended that "it was apparent to me that Mr. De Harport had 'an axe to grind' and at times was abusive in his contacts with Superintendent Berger." [207]

In defense of De Harport's accusations of pothunting, which may or may not have been part of a personal vendetta against Berger, there was pothunting going on, although perhaps not on the scale that he suggested. Personal inquiries by the authors indicate this to be true. [208]

Meanwhile, De Harport was still trying to get approval to conduct his work at de Chelly. Danson wrote him in August about his appointment as a research associate of the Museum of Northern Arizona. He also approved of his wish to photograph, draw plans, make sherd collections, and collect wood for Bannister. Danson hoped that De Harport would "inform Superintendent Berger of your presence on the Monument and tell him when you plan to work there and where you will be going." [209]

De Harport then wrote the assistant regional director. He stated the above information and presumed that Berger had been notified. He stated:

As has always been my custom during the past fifteen years which I have done field work in Canyon de Chelly National Monument the superintendent or other authorized personnel of the Monument, are notified when I enter the canyons, where I intend to work, and when I expect to be out. The area is entirely too dangerous to work alone without taking these simple precautions. [210]

The assistant regional director responded that he was pleased to hear of his appointment and work proposals. However, Miller stated that De Harport had to secure "the approval of the Superintendent, in advance, as to the scope of any work proposed within a National Park Service area, not merely notifying him as to when and where you propose to work." [211]

De Harport, however, did not heed this procedure and repeatedly wrote to Berger for permission. [212] Finally, the regional chief wrote De Harport, spelling out what he had to do and reiterating that a simple notification was not enough. De Harport was advised to write a prospectus "as to the scope and manner of your field work," and to submit it beforehand to Berger. The regional chief was "baffled" as to why De Harport had not done this. [213]

De Harport saw the light and sent a detailed prospectus to Berger on September 10. He concluded that "it is offered to satisfy any administrative requirements for formal issuance of a permit to work in the area." [214]

By October 15 De Harport still had not received the "go ahead" from Berger. De Harport wrote Berger, stating that "I have complied with all legal requirements for the issuance of a permit" and wondering where the approval was. [215] He also stated that he had made several unsuccessful attempts to meet with Berger personally at Canyon de Chelly. He declared:

and I have waited and waited. Yet, I have not received one word from you about my permit. Surely, Mr. Berger, there can be no rational reason for this behavior on your part. May I hear from you by return mail? [216]

The approval was finally mailed by Berger on November 28. The permit expired at the end of December. Berger advised De Harport to report when he entered and left the canyons as a safety measure and also in order to "advise others of your work when they report seeing activity at any of the ruins." [217]

The hostile feelings did not subside. On December 2 De Harport declared to Berger that

Last July 21 you refused to issue this permit and in a notable abuse of your authority ordered certain surveylance [sic] of my activities in an apparent attempt to restrict my investigation of illegal digging in archaeological sites in the Monument. You [so] informed Mr. Justin La Font at that time. You will now inform him that you have issued a permit for my archaeological research in Canon de Chelly. [218]

Moreover, De Harport again wrote a report on illegal excavating at Canyon de Chelly and submitted it to the tribal lawyers. [219]

Thus, the De Harport-Berger controversy was apparently a clash of personalities and misunderstandings. The actions of both men caused considerable headaches for others indirectly involved. Who was to blame? Perhaps they both were guilty.

In sum, an overview of the Berger years at Canyon de Chelly reveals a growing alienation between the Park Service and the Navajos. Examples are indeed numerous: the meeting in Santa Fe of Berger, White, and Guillet to study Park Service/Navajo relations; the request made to Commissioner Nash by the Navajos to have Canyon de Chelly returned to them; and alleged vandalism and pothunting activities. Moreover, the Navajos were probably upset over encroachments on their sacred lands—the ascents of Spider Rock and the possibilities of a road passing through their cemetery. One of their greatest fears was their potential loss of the entire area due to Park Service expansion during these years. A prime example of this was the Anson Bahe case. The situation was extremely critical and needed rectifying. [220]

These accusations must be viewed with some suspicion because they come from people who disliked him, but at the same time they were first hand observers. Comments by others who may have received part of their information second-hand, but who were close enough to be considered well-informed, allege that he did allow the bulldozing of the Navajo cemetery near headquarters and that the interpretive programs declined drastically in quality under his administration. None of these allegations can be documented in sources that the writers have examined, but it is apparent that Berger did fail to maintain good relations with the Navajos. Whether this was merely because he tried too zealously to perform his duties without regard for consequences, or because he lacked tolerance and understanding of a people different from himself, he was quite obviously the wrong man in the wrong place at the wrong time.