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The panel, Biway Points of Interest, offers information on thirteen sites in the area. An adjacent panel titled, The Strait of Juan de Fuca Scenic Byway, State Route 112, includes a map showing the location of each site on the Olympic Peninsula. Each point of interest on the Biway panel is number keyed to a photo panel inside the building. The following includes the text on the Biway information panel and a description of its related photo panel inside the building. Text begins:
1. Elwha River Interpretive Center. This self-guided center presents an overview of the largest dam removal project in the United States occurring on the nearby Elwha River. Nature trails lead from the parking lots to views of the Elwha River gorge and the former Elwha Dam site. You are at milepost 60. No corresponding photo panel.
2. Elwha Bridge. The Elwha River’s glacier-fed waters and deep gorge are exceptionally scenic and can be viewed from the old Elwha Bridge on Elwha River Road. The one-lane 1914 bridge was replaced in 2009 with one supporting separate vehicle and pedestrian decks. The pedestrian deck is the river crossing on the Olympic Discovery Trail. In the photograph, people walk across a concrete bridge built below the road surface. The bridge has side railings.
3. Mouth of the Elwha River. Two dams on the Elwha River were removed between 2011 and 2014, releasing millions of cubic yards of sediment from their reservoirs. This is creating exciting changes to the area around the river’s mouth. Eagles can often be seen flying above the beach. In the photograph the river flows between two low riverbanks, sun through a cloudy sky, glinting on the water. Mountains rise in the distance.
4. Olympic Discovery Trail, Adventure Route. The Olympic Discovery Trail, ODT, is a non-motorized, multiuser transportation and recreation system that will eventually span the Olympic Peninsula. One portion, connecting SR112 at the Elwha River with lake Crescent, is the Adventure Route. It is three feet wide, has a dirt and gravel surface, and is open to hikers, equestrians, and mountain bikers. In the photo, a hiker wearing a red ballcap, dark jacket and baggy pants holds a hiking pole in each hand as they walk along a narrow path flanked by flowering plants, green shrubs and trees, and taller pine trees in the distance.
5. Freshwater Bay County Park. A concrete launch ramp and beach access are open year-round. The protected bay provides an ideal spot for fishing, kayaking, beach combing, crabbing, and bird watching. The park has an upper picnic area, open May to September, located in a natural cedar forest with shelters and restrooms. In the photo, two people stand on the shore of the bay, one holding a bucket and shovel and a leashed dog. Not far offshore, a sea stack is surrounded by the blue-green water below a blue sky.
6. Salt Creek Recreation Area. Salt Creek includes the Tongue Point Marine Life Sanctuary, a diving site, a saltwater beach, a surfing and paddle sport area, playground, tide pools, a wide variety of bird life, and hiking trails to Striped Peak. The remains of Fort Hayden, a World War Two coastal defense fort, are preserved on the 196-acre site. The park is popular for tent and RV camping. In the photo, the tall cliff of a headland is covered by trees, at its base are two boulders. The shoreline is gravelly.
7. Joyce General Store and Depot Museum. This historic landmark is a favorite supply stop for locals and tourists. It houses artifacts from the area’s logging history and a century-old US Post Office. The Joyce Depot Museum is just east of the store in a log-built former railroad station. Its exhibits tell the story of the Joyce’s early history. The museum is open Saturdays year-round, extended days in the summer. In the photo, a portion of the log cabin has a sign attached that reads, Joyce. To the left of the cabin is a large cross section piece of a tree with a large metal pulley wheel resting against it. A second photo shows the front of a white wooden building trimmed in black with a peaked roof and roof covered porch. Above the porch roof on the face of the building are signs that read, Joyce General Store, and US Post Office, Joyce WA 98343.
8. Lyre Conservation Area. This area features a 1-mile trail to the estuary at the mouth of the Lyre River, streams, tide-flats, kelp beds and a ½ mile of Strait of Juan de Fuca shoreline. The trail passes through a large diverse upland forest as well as providing an opportunity to view salmon, birds, and other wildlife. It is open for non-motorized recreation such as hiking, horseback riding, surfing, bird watching, and biking. In the photo, long white beams of sunlight punctuate the darkness in a forest of tall pine trees.
9. Pillar Point County Park. This wooded 4-acre day-use park has a sandy beach with a concrete launch ramp for small boats. It is a great area for crabbing, shell fishing, and photography. Enjoy scenic views of the Strait, the Pysht River estuary and the imposing profile of Pillar Point. In the photo are two men wearing overalls. One balances a rake across his shoulder and holds a round metal bucket, the other holds the handle of an upright rake.
10. Clallam Bay Spit County Park. This County day-use park includes picnic sites, rest rooms, an interpretive display and room to roam. In summer months, there is public access to the Clallam Spit with a mile-long sand and gravel beach. In the photo, white frothy waves wash onto a dark gravelly beach. In the near distance, a piece of land covered with dense green forest juts into the water. In the far distance, are overlapping mountains.
11. Lake Ozette. Part of Olympic National Park, Lake Ozette offers boating, hiking and camping and access to the trailhead of a nine-mile cedar boardwalk loop to the Pacific shoreline, up the coast and back to the lake. Check with the parks Wilderness Information Center in Port Angeles for overnight permits, tips, and tide schedules. In the photo, grasses pop through the surface of the shallow clear water near the shoreline. Green lily pads dot the top of the lake and on the far shore green plants and tall pine trees grow, all under a blue sky.
12. Sail and Seal Rocks. Sea Stacks. These twin offshore rocks are feeding grounds for grey whales; sea birds can also be seen. The Strait of Juan de Fuca connects Puget Sound to the Pacific Ocean. In the photo, three white boats with front cabins and open back decks sit anchored in the blue water. Beyond the boats are two tall grey sea stacks, and in the far distance, overlapping mountains with jagged peaks reach high into a cloudy blue sky.
13. Neah Bay and the Makah Trail, Cape Flattery. Discover ancient Makah heritage at the Makah Cultural and Research Center. Explore camping, sports fishing, and hiking the pristine coast to Shi Shi Beach in Olympic National Park. Take the Cape Flattery trail on a ¾ mile cedar-planked boardwalk to a magnificent view of the Tatoosh Island Lighthouse. A recreational permit is required and can be purchased at several outlets in Neah Bay. In the photo, the scene is a high angle view looking down and past trees on a hillside to the ocean below. A sea stack with trees on top sits solitary in the water. Beyond it is another landform. This ends the Biway Points of Interest panel.
Additional panels not associated with the Biways Points of Interest panel follow.
First, a panel titled, The People. Below the title is the word for People written in a native language. Text continues, The oldest currently identified evidence of humans living on the Olympic Peninsula is dated to approximately 13,800 years ago. Since time immemorial the Elwha Klallam, Strong People, have been particularly bound to the Elwha River, using the rich resources found throughout the watershed and its nearshore. They continue to live along the river today, holding it in deep reverence and regarding it as part of their tribe’s soul. Below, a color illustration shows an Elwha Klallam people from long ago along a shoreline. On the left, men work on canoes on the shore while other paddle canoes toward the shore. Women and children stand on the shore watching the canoes. Other people walk along the beach, one carrying a dead deer on his back. On the edge where the beach meets the dense forest, stand single story square wood buildings of various sizes. Below are two small photos, the first shows a man in overalls facing left holding a pole across his shoulder with a fish attached, a canoe at his feet. The caption reads, Ernest Sampson, Elwha Klallam Tribal Member. The next shows three women wearing red and black shawls, and two children, one with a round, flat drum. They appear to be singing. The caption reads, Members of the Klallam Drum and Dance Group. In the lower left corner, text reads, In the mid-1800s, European-Americans started arriving in earnest and settling on the Olympic Peninsula. Founded in 1862, a few miles east of the Elwha River, Port Angeles grew from a frontier outpost into a small town. The population increased rapidly when booming resource-based industries drew an influx of newcomers. By the late 1800s, many civic leaders wanted to fuel this economic growth by bringing the new technology of electricity to Port Angeles. A small black and white with the caption, Early logging on the Olympic Peninsula, photo shows two men with axes standing on either side of a large tree with a wide notch cut into the front of the trunk. A man lays in the notch. A long thin hand saw leans against the tree. To the right, a photo shows the downtown and harbor area of Port Angeles circa 1904. Buildings fill the foreground. In the near distance, five ships, some with belching smokestacks are lined up in the harbor.
Next panel, The Dams. Below the title is the statement, Construction wedged in tight, written in a native language. Text continues, Real estate developer Thomas T. Aldwell believed that hydroelectric power generated buy a dam on the Elwha River could support development in the region. He sold his vision to a group of investors and formed the Olympic Power and Development Company in 1910. Construction of the damn started 5 miles upstream from the river’s mouth and in 1914 the 105-foot Elwha Dam was producing and distributing electricity to customers in the region. The success of the project coupled with a growing demand for more electricity fueled the construction of another damn. By 1927, the 210-foot Glines Canyon Dam was producing hydroelectric power 8 miles upriver from the Elwha Dam.
On the left a black-and-white photograph taken down river shows massive rock walls of the gorge and the tall concrete dam spanning the width of the opening. Workers at river level near the dam are mere specks next to the massive face of the dam. The caption reads, The Elwha Dam and construction camp, circa 1912. Below, a photograph of Thomas Aldwell, circa early 1900s, shows a white man with a dark moustache wearing a dark wide brimmed hat, white shirt, black scarf and black pants, holding a rifle propped against his leg. Next to the photo is a map showing the location of the Elwha Dam site and the Glines Canyon Dam site to the south. On the far left, a photograph taken from a high vantage point shows the Glines Canyon Dam during construction, circa 1925. The river in the background meets the inward curved wall of the dam, built edge to edge between the massive rock walls of the gorge. At the bottom, a plume of water falls to the river below.
Next panel, Elwha Dam Construction 1910 to 1913. To the right of the title is the statement, The first dam is being built, written in a native language. Below the header are a series of black and white historic construction photos. From the top, the caption on the photo reads, Concrete construction nearing completion. In the top center of the photo is the river. Concrete pilings and metal structures topped by a platform span the river from shore to shore. Atop the platform, a small structure with a chimney pipe is labeled, Job site steam driven power plant. A group of small buildings sit on the left riverbank. The right riverbank is cleared of trees. In the foreground, is a concrete building labeled, Olympic Power Plant, Port Angeles Washington.
Next, a photo shows the construction site with bare hillsides and small shacks. A section of the photo is marked with orange lines to bring attention to an area where men are working. A caption reads: Building wooden forms for pouring the concrete dam. Below, two photos. On the left, a bridge spans the gap above the dam construction. Focus is drawn to two people on the bridge. A caption reads: Crossing from camp to the job site. On the right, at river level, the focus is on men work below the bridge. A caption reads, Men securing the work platform built from massive log. Along the bottom are four photos. From left, a scene of the construction zone with focus on a platform dangling from a cable and filled with standing workers. A caption reads: Lowering crews to site. Next, five men stand in a small boat alongside a piece of equipment with large shovels attached to a long mechanical arm. A caption reads: Dredging the riverbed with steam powered equipment. Below this, a photo with the caption: Pouring the concrete roof of the powerhouse using wheelbarrows. The final photo shows a group of men standing atop a large donut shaped riveted metal structure. They wear overalls and look at the camera. The caption reads: Installing the riveted penstocks.
A final statement reads: The Elwha River hydroelectric project was advanced technology for the era. The construction methods and equipment used were extraordinary considering the remote location, lack of developed roads, and prevalence of horse-drawn transportation.
A panel to the left is titled, Glines Canyon Dam Construction 1924 to 1927. Below the title the statement, The other dam is being built, is written in a native language. A set of three black and white photographs of the construction site follow. One shows the chute used to pour concrete for the powerhouse. The second shows a partially built dam and men being transported down its face by crane, and the third shows the river flowing in a deep gorge and the men building the cofferdam. Below, a second set of photos show the men who built the dam. First, men walk on a plank footbridge across the deep canyon to the work bridge. Next, the river gorge and the diversion tunnel dug through the rock with a smaller photo to the side showing men digging inside the tunnel. A photo shows a group of men using a bulldozer to bring tall electrical equipment on site, then setting equipment in the powerhouse. The last photo shows the work camp dining hall with seating for 400 and a long table set for dinner.
Another panel is titled, Elwha Dam Deconstruction 2011 to 2013. To the right of the title the statement, The first dam is demolished, is written in a native language. Below the header are a series of color photos. From the top, an aerial view of the dam with two active spillways, one on the left and one on the right, with a dry section in the middle. A bridge spans the river above the dam. Behind the dam is the river, wide and still, with dense forests on either side and mountains in the distance. The caption reads, Elwha Dam just prior to deconstruction, September 2011. Next, an aerial photo of the site shows no bridge and parts of the spillways gone. The river is narrower and now flows only on the right side. The caption reads, Demolition progress as of December 1, 2011. A small photo to the right shows a backhoe removing the old upstream cofferdam and leak mitigation barrier. The next photo shows the river flowing briskly through the gorge with the caption, Panoramic view of the Elwha River running freely though the old dam site. Across the bottom of the panel are three photos showing closeups of some of the deconstruction work. From left to right, a backhoe works from a gravel bar. The caption reads, Removing the old upstream cofferdam. Next a wide shot of the deconstruction zone with a section outlined in orange and the caption, Preparing to remove the protective log boom October 20, 2011. The final photo is a close up of the section outlined in orange on the second photo, but a day later with the caption, Log boom removed October 21, 2011.
Next, a panel titled, Glines Canyon Dam Deconstruction 2011 to 2014. The statement, The other dam is demolished, is written in a native language. Below the header are a series of color photos. From the top, a view of the dam face with an upper bridge and five spillway slots with water pouring through the slots on the left. The caption reads, Glines Canyon Dam prior to deconstruction. Next, a yellow backhoe sits atop a platform on the right as water flows over the ledge to the left. The captions reads, Heavy equipment used to notch the dam is stationed on a floating barge. Across the bottom of the panel are six photos showing closeups of some of the deconstruction work. From left to right, a backhoe rips through concrete on the face of the dam. The caption reads, The start of the deconstruction. Next a shot from above of a hydraulic hammer notching the top of the dam on the right as five fingers of water cascade over the edge on the left. The third photo is an aerial view of a backhoe at the bottom of the dam site clearing rubble. Next, a view from upriver of the Glines Canyon Dam partially deconstructed, the river now flowing through a now opened center section of the dam face. The last two photos show a wide shot, then a close up a section of rock wall along the left side of the river which is now a roiling torrent cascading over rocks and ledges. The caption reads, Dam almost completely removed, view from downriver showing former diversion tunnel.
On the next panel titled, The Fish, the native word for Salmon is written. Filling the background of the panel is an underwater view of a school of fish swimming to the right. The fish are mostly green, some with a hint of red, and all have black spots on their backs. In the lower right corner text reads, Fish of many varieties depended on the free-flowing Elwha River and its tributaries for food and shelter. Anadromous species: Chinook, chum, coho, pink, and sockeye salmon, sea-run cutthroat, steelhead and bull trout all lived in the river. Born in freshwater, anadromous fish migrate to salt water, grow to maturity, and then return to their natal (birth) river to spawn (produce eggs). Before construction of the first dam began 1910, as many as 400,000 salmon were estimated to live in the river each year. Just before removal of the dams began in 2011, that number had dropped to approximately 3,000.
On the right side of the panel are photos of the Salmon Life Cycle arranged in a circle. Clockwise beginning at the top, a mass of red eggs in a nest, some translucent enough for an eye to show through. Next, alevins hatch and hide in gravel beds, living on the red yolk sac attached to their belly. Then, silver colored fish, a bit larger, with black spots along their sides are called fry. They swim about learning to feed, school, and develop survival skills. At the bottom, the fish is larger still. Next, a school of fish, smolts, undergo physical adaptations that allow them to leave fresh water and survive in the ocean. Finally, a group of adult fish. Adults spend from one to as many as eight years at sea before returning to their home river to spawn and die.
Text in the center of the circle reads, The dams blocked access to about 70 miles of spawning habitat previously used by these migratory fish, according to each species’ need. The five miles of accessible river habitat below the dams also degraded. Available spewing beds were fewer and of lower quality because the necessary gravelly sediment was being trapped above the dams. The dams also held back woody debris, essential to shelter young fish and the forage they depend on. Prior to dam construction, Chinook salmon weighing 100 pounds were seen in the Elwha River. It is thought that removal of the dams and habitat restoration efforts may provide the environment needed for some individuals to again reach this remarkable size. As much as the fish depended upon the river and its watershed, this same ecosystem and the people living in it depended on the fish. After migrating into a river system and spawning, most salmon die. Many animals, birds, and other fish eat the highly nutritious carcasses and eggs. The absence of fish carcasses above the dam changed the chemistry of the river and the surrounding soil, reducing the availability of crucial nutrients for plant life. The dwindling number of returning salmon, so central to the food supply and culture of the Elwha Klallam people, left them struggling to maintain their self-sufficient lifestyle. In essence, the elimination of anadromous fish in the upper river fundamentally affected all life, human and otherwise, in the entire watershed
The next panel is titled, The Hatcheries, with the written native words meaning, The house of salmon. Text reads, Several projects designed to preserve the Elwha River salmon population have been initiated since the first dam was built. Construction of the Elwha Dam began in 1910. Even before completion, it was clear that salmon were being blocked. In 1915, a hatchery went into operation, using the dam as a means to collect fish. It was found to be an ineffective and was abandoned in 1922. A hatchery program for Chinook operated from the mid 1930s to the present, although a facility was not located on the river until the 1970s. In the 1970s, a tribal hatchery was built on the river. It produced coho and chum salmon as well as steelhead. In 2011, a new hatchery was built on higher ground as removing the dams would render the existing one unusable. On the left a photograph show salmon in clear, bright green water swimming in a pool at the base of the massive dam. The caption reads, Returning salmon blocked by the Elwha Dam, 2010.. Below, a group of photos, the first, four adult pink salmon swimming above a rocky gravel stream. Next, a photo of pink salmon eggs hatching. Then, an aerial view of the new Elwha River Hatchery in 2011. Finally, a man holds a fish in a bin while another person watches. The caption reads, Hatchery broodstock harvest.
The background image on the next panel titled, A New Direction for the River, shows a river flowing through a forest of deciduous trees, some with orange leaves. Native words meaning, the way of the river, are written under the title. Text reads, Removal of the dams has long been advocated by the Elwha Klallam People. In 1968, owners of the Elwha Dam applied to the Federal Energy Regulatory Commission for a license. In 1973, an application was filed for re-licensing the Glines Canyon Dam. The licensing process included public hearings, and was an opportunity to reexamine all the costs and benefits of the two hydroelectric projects. Over the years support had grown for removing the dams and restoring the river and its historic fish populations. Others believed that the dams should remain in place and continue to provide electricity. The process became delayed and contentious. Many years passed. Conflicts between the competing interests needed a final resolution. Federal legislation was ultimately drafted, in essence a negotiated settlement, and in 1992, Public Law 102-495, the Elwha River Ecosystem and Fisheries Restoration Act was enacted, mandating full restoration of the Elwha River ecosystem and native anadromous fisheries. Near the center of the panel is a small inset photograph of two adult pink salmon. Below, a photograph of a mass of white salmon eggs.
Along the right side of the panel, are quotes from three people. At the top is a small photo of an older man with short, cropped hair wearing a button-down shirt. He is George Bolstrom, Elwha Klallam Tribal Elder, 1929-2000. He says, It’s not just about taking the dams out, or even just putting the fish back. It’s about the whole picture, the human population, marine predators, overfishing, the works. If the whole system is addressed, then maybe restoration will work. Below, is a photo of an older woman with white hair wearing glasses, long silver earrings, and a purple jacket. She is Beatrice Charles, Elwha Klallam Tribal Elder, 1919-2009. Her statement is, Our Creator gave us this fish to live on and we cherish it, and we respected every bit of it. I may not see the abundance of fish come back in my lifetime, but I would like to see it come back for my grandchildren, and the rest of my people, the generations to come. It was a gift form our Creator. It was our culture and heritage. At the bottom is a small photo of an older man wearing glasses and a tan sweater. He is Orville Campbell, Retired Mill Manager, James River Corporation. He says, Many people think the dams were a mistake. In 1910, the culture and values of the people of Port Angeles were very different. Life was difficult, it was tough making a living, commerce was limited, and there was no electrical energy. The story of the dams is lacking if we pass judgement using only our modern day values. There is no doubt that the Native Americans were mistreated. The original owners of the project were focused on bringing a source of energy to the region and did not consider the damage being done to the lifestyles of the local Native Americans.
Planning the Restoration is the title of the next panel. The Native American translation is, Planning bringing life. Text reads, Once it was final that the dams would be removed, the complex planning started. Before actual dam removal could begin, many preliminary projects had to be completed. This part of the process took almost 20 years from 1992 to 2011. The dams were purchased by the federal government and the Bureau of Reclamation oversaw their continued operation. A greenhouse and propagation facility was built to support revegetation projects. Strategies were developed to mitigate the release of millions of cubic yards of sediments accumulated behind both dams because suspended sediment can smother aquatic animals and plants accustomed to living in clear water. Downstream water treatment and collection facilities that supported neighboring communities were protected, moved, or replaced. A replacement hatchery was built. Because the project created a unique opportunity to enhance understanding of river systems and their processes, teams of scientists and technicians were brought in to document conditions in and along the river before removal of the dams began. Monitoring the changes to what they found continued during the project and will for decades to come. Photos show a man from USGS surveying a section of the lower Elwha River and coastal zone. An aerial view of the new water treatment plant. A group of juvenile salmon. An aerial view showing a gray sediment delta in Lake Mills. A map shows the potential range of salmon along the Elwha River and its many tributaries.
The final panel is titled, Progress of the Restoration, written as, The revitalization continues in the Native American language. Text reads, Dam removal set the stage for the recovery of an environment that historically supported hundreds of thousands of salmon. Success of this project will only be clearly understood after many years of monitoring. A photo shows two people measuring sediment. Another shows four people in wetsuits, masks, and snorkels looking underwater and counting fish using the snorkel survey method. In another photo, a person launches a small hand-held plane to monitor by air. Across the bottom, two returning pink salmon, and side-by-side aerial images of the Elwha River estuary in 2005 and the same estuary in 2013 showing how the estuary has grown over time. Text in the center of the panel reads, Has all the hard work paid off? By what measures could this project be called a success? The only way to answer these questions is too keep monitoring, measuring, and analyzing data on every possible aspect of the environmental processes taking place in the watershed. Changes in the watershed show that natural processes are returning. The dams are gone. Willow and alder are taking root in the drained reservoirs. The river is transporting excess sediments downstream. The estuary at the river’s mouth is expanding and fine grained beaches are forming along the nearshore. Returning salmon now have access to about 75 miles of river and tributaries. Chinook and coho salmon and steelhead trout traditional swam many miles up the river to spawn. In 2013, hundreds of Chinook found their way past the old Elwha Dam site and spawned in three tributaries not accessible for a century. In 2014, a survey counted salmon upriver from the former Glines Canyon Dam site. Future generations are now free to explore the upper river and their former spawning grounds.
On the outside of the building is a large color photograph by Jean Boyle of a river lined with trees, some with orange foliage. The trees are reflected in the water. In the near distance are tree covered mountain slopes and in the far distance, dark outlines of overlapping mountain ranges. In the blue sky, Artist, Roger Kawasa Fernandes has painted the faces of five people, each looking in a different direction. Above and below the faces are five red bodied salmon all moving to the left. Three other fish are created in traditional designs. |
Last updated: November 10, 2021