Making a Bustle Dress for a Victorian Picnic

Rachel’s interpretation of the gown using patterns from the company Truly Victorian.

First State Heritage Park

Rachel Sheffield, a historical interpreter and historic clothing coordinator at First State Heritage Park, has spent the last few months researching, designing, and sewing gowns from the 1880s for our partner's at the First State Heritage Park's planned Victorian Picnic special event this summer (date TBD).The picnic will be set in 1885 and take place on the historic Dover Green, complete with boxed lunches, lawn games, and a live brass band. To add to the ambiance of the event, Rachel has been tasked with creating historically-accurate reproduction clothing for herself and her coworkers.

The 1880s were an extravagant time in the history of fashion. Bodices were tight, skirts included “shelf like protrusions” over the backside, and accessories abounded. To recreate such a look, extensive research was done, with photographs and illustrated fashion plates being used as reference points. While the designs she drafted aren’t exact recreations, Rachel says:

“By using patterns drafted from extant garments [garments made in the 1880s] and taking inspiration from fashion plates, we can create a gown that could have existed in 1885.”

Here, Madi and Rachel check the fit of Madi’s bodice (in-progress) and skirts (completed).

First State Heritage Park

After creating a design, adapting the pattern, and ordering fabric that would be appropriate to the time period, Rachel is currently focused on creating muslins, or practice versions of the garment. This is an important step, as these muslins are used to check the fit before cutting into the more expensive fabric used for the final product.

The next step in this process will be to go back to the pattern and incorporate all of the modifications that were made during the fitting and create a new, better fitting muslin. Once the muslin fits perfectly, then Rachel can start making the final pieces!

Join our partners at First State Heritage Park next month for an update on Madi’s bustle dress and see the designs for another interpreter’s gown! Follow First State Heritage Park on Facebook for updates on the Victorian Picnic and other fascinating pieces of Delaware’s history.