Paddling the Beautiful Conowingo Islands

Paddling near Big Chesnut Island.

Saki

The Lancaster County Natural Heritage Inventory describes the Conowingo Islands as “having one of Pennsylvania’s most unusual and picturesque riverine landscapes.” The first inhabitants of this area were hunters and gatherers who arrived in the Susquehanna Valley near the end of the last Ice Age, over 12,000 years ago. Around 1575, the fur-trading Susquehannocks took control of this land, and by the 1690s, after fighting for ten years with the Iroquois Nation, the Susquehannocks joined other refugee peoples to form the Conestoga Indians.  The Conestogas gradually declined in population until a group of frontiersmen annihilated the last of them in 1763. To learn more you can visit the Indian Steps Museum, located just over three miles upstream of Holtwood Dam. Just across the museum road at the Ulmer-Root-Haines Trail, you can wind through a 26-acre recreational area dedicated in 1961.  Only a quarter mile long, the trail’s reward is a small but scenic unnamed waterfall at the turnaround point – a trickle unless it has rained recently.  In the spring, you’ll find violets and numerous trilliums along the trail, the latter once valued by American Indians for its medicinal qualities.

History can also be found adjacent to the Conowingo Islands at the Lock 15 Interpretive Park which recognizes a time when our country’s road system was still immature and rivers were often the most practical way to transport supplies and people. 

Visiting the park, you can walk on the mayapple-lined blue-blazed trail, which runs between locks 12 through 15 on a segment of the Mason-Dixon Trail.  Remains of the canal bed, the towpath, two lift locks, and some building foundations can still be seen.  You’ll also find a few modern conveniences: porta-johns, picnic tables, grills and parking for about 15 vehicles.  Some sources talk about launching a kayak here but there is a sign posted stating “Boat launching is not permitted at Lock 15 Park.” However you can visit Lock 15 Interpretive Park trail.  This location, just west of Conowingo Islands, has a porta-john, paved boat ramp and parking for 50+ vehicles.  A fee must be paid prior to launching either powered or unpowered boats.  Those who don’t mind paddling a little further to reach the islands can avoid the fee by putting in 1.5 miles downstream at Cold Cabin Park where there’s a porta-john and paved boat ramp, but significantly less parking, I estimate room for about 9 vehicles. Because paddling conditions vary widely on this stretch of the Susquehanna River, many factors should be taken into account before launching so make sure you check for things like water levels, weather, obstructions, and routes.

To check water levels, visit the National Weather Service – Susquehanna River at Harrisburg website. If it reads 5.6 feet I could expect lake-like conditions in much of the vicinity, while 8 feet will yield a very strong flow. One should also consult Safe Waters – Holtwood to determine when water is being released from the dam. Because boulders just below the surface are common, I don’t recommend paddling any watercraft with a long non-retractable rudder or fin here.  Also, be aware that the rocky terrain both above and below the water will easily scratch boats and can be difficult to avoid.

The wind will be less obstructed if it blows from the northwest or the southeast, and if this is the case, you may want to plan your trip to avoid strong headwinds, especially on the return.  If it comes from the northeast or southwest, then the higher elevation at the edges of the Susquehanna will provide some protection.

The strip west of Peavine Island will almost always be calm and suitable for beginners. The islands just south of Lower Bear Island (what I call the “south islands”) have some of the most dramatic views, are easy to reach, and are suitable for less experienced paddlers, assuming the water flow is mild and the wind is moderate.  These are also a short distance from either Muddy Creek Access or Cold Cabin Park: 0.25 mile and 1.2 miles, respectively.  Several of these islands are home to private residences so avoid landing unless you are certain you are on public land.

As with any paddling, know your limitations.  Water released from the dam and rocky conditions that cause turbulence can make paddling at Conowingo Islands considerably rougher than many places in the Chesapeake Bay watershed, but as long as you choose an appropriate route, paddle under conditions suitable for your ability, using good common sense, you should be fine.

This is an abridged article originally written by Saki.