Records Found: Reflections On An 8,000-mile Journey Along The Continental Divide

Serpentine Hot Springs Logbook

NPS photo

One man’s journal entry from the Serpentine Hot Springs Logbook reveals his reflections as he and his companion completed the final leg of an 8,000-mile journey along the continental divide. His words are raw, soulful, and a stark reminder of the effects wild landscapes have upon the human psyche.

For those interested, this hike across Alaska via the Continental Divide is the last geographic section in my hike from Mexico that began on 4/22/80. Since that time I have been obcessed with the excitement and adventure and endothermic freedom that have driven me to the backcountry of North America for this 8000 mile hike. I make no understatements, the backcountry of Alaska and the surviving mentality and social hospitality is the best on this journey from Mexico. I have walked through the mountains and deserts of New Mexico, Colorado, Wyoming, Montana, British Columbia, and the Yukon Territory but nowhere else can compare to the route across Alaska. To know that humanity, honor, respect, and trust have survived the onslaught of “commercial westernization” is a cherished realization – one that I would gladly walk 6000 miles to find – as I had to… I’d do it again with even more determination.

Due to a physical impairment my original partner was unable to complete this journey with me. He quit after four years, 6000 miles, and one previous injury. The difficulty of tackling an Alaskan winter (both logistically and physically) was something he wished to avoid. However, there was no other way to walk across this state (due to financial constraints). We had to cross the marshy areas between Shungnak and Deering (our food drop for resupplying) before they melted. Realising he couldn’t go took a lot out of him – and even more, out of me.

Faced with a rather emotional and irrational choice of going alone through the Alaskan wilderness, quitting, and finding a new partner I had finally chosen to (more or less) postpone for a year and probably quit. However, thanks to the support of some very special people (Trish Anderson, Bor Halbiesen, Paul Walker, and Tom Pogson) my energies were renewed and inspired – it is true – after four years of dedication and hard work toward the goal of becoming the 1st to complete the 8000 mile stretch of the Great Divide (all which is reciprocated exponentially in adventure and blissful freedom) how could I quit? How could I stop now with only 1800 miles to go?

It took us four years to amass the experience and skills necessary to survive the rigors and dynamic terrains of North America; all the way from the deserts of Wyoming to the muskeg “death march” of the northern Yukon Territory. If I was to continue, it only seemed logical that I should obey one of the 1st rules of the wilds – avoid traveling long distances alone. But where could I hunt down someone with the skills or inherent abilities necessary?

To avail, I did not hunt, but it occurred – in the course of confusion Rob Kincheloe and I decided to walk to the Great Divide – crossing the state of Alaska; for me, the end of a four year adventure… for him, to see the backcountry of Alaska. I could probably write all sorts of great stuff about the sacrifices one makes in deciding to enter the wilds for 6 months, the discomforts, the lack of social contact, etc etc., but to be honest with you, the four years of shear exhilaration of being alive, healthy, free, and in good shape coupled with the never ending onslought of adventure and thrills has drowned out the “discomforts”. Civilization holds not the enjoyment but the period of time one must spend to get ready to get out to what real enjoyment is about. To be perceptive enough to see these things and brave enough to attempt to explore them is a rare quality – some call it stupidity. The unsung hero of the expedition’s success (making it from Mexico to Wales) is my partner Rob. The guy who kicked me in the ass and out of Fairbanks, who joined me, who never backpacked before, and who was determined and self-disciplined enough to carry through a challenge with vigor.

So with all this back-patting the backpackers I say thank-you fate, thanks NPS, thanks Deering, and thank-you “Bic” ballpoint pen for cutting through the slush and lasting through the verbosity, hoping someone finds entertainment from reading this.

Daniel F. Cooper
North American Divide Expedition