YELLOWSTONE Early History of Yellowstone National Park and Its Relation to National Park Policies

That John Colter, a soldier with the Lewis and Clark expedition, was the first white person to visit the region now known as Yellowstone National Park seems well authenticated. He secured his discharge from the expedition on its return journey in 1806 to join a band of trappers, and his work for these men brought about his adventures in the Yellowstone region. Chittenden devotes a chapter to John Colter in his book, "The Yellowstone National Park."

NILES REGISTER LETTER, 1827

Probably the earliest publication of a description of Yellowstone Lake and the hot springs appears in Niles Register for October 6, 1827. This description occurs in a letter from a trapper or trader, which is dated July 8, 1827. The Niles Register credits the article "Phil. Gaz." On inquiry of the Library Co. of Philadelphia, I am informed that this article appeared in the Philadelphia Gazette of September 27, 1827. The letter is as follows:

"FROM THE WEST

"SWEET LAKE, July 8, 1827.

"Shortly after writing to you last year I took my departure for the Blackfoot country much against my will, but I could not make a party for any other route. We took a northerly direction about 50 miles, where we crossed Snake River, or the South Fork of Columbia, at the forks of Henrys and Lewis; at this place we were daily harassed by the Blackfeet; from thence we went up Henrys or North Fork which bears north of east 80 miles and crossed a large rugged mountain which separates the two forks; from thence east up the other fork to its source, which heads on the top of the great chain of Rocky Mountains which separates the waters of the Atlantic from those of the Pacific. At or near this place heads the Luchkadee or California Sticking Fork, Yellowstone South Fork of Maswri, and Henrys Fork, all those head at one angular point; that of the Yellowstone has a large fresh-water lake near its head on the very top of the mountain, which is about 100 by 40 miles in diameter, and as clear as crystal. On the south border of this lake is a number of hot and boiling springs, some of water and others of most beautiful fine clay, resembling a mush pot, and throwing particles to the immense height of from 20 to 30 feet. The clay is of a white, and of a pink color, and the water appears fathomless as it appears to be entirely hollow underneath. There is also a number of places where pure sulphur is sent forth in abundance. One of our men visited one of these whilst taking his recreation—there at an instant the earth began a tremendous trembling, and he with difficulty made his escape, when an explosion took place resembling that of thunder. During our stay in that quarter I heard it every day. From this place by a circuitous route to the northwest we returned. Two others and myself pushed on in advance for the purpose of accumulating a few more beaver, and in the act of passing through a narrow confine in the mountain, we were met plump in the face by a large party of Blackfeet Indians, who not knowing our number fled into the mountain in confusion; we retired to a small grove of willows; here we made every preparation for battle after which finding our enemy as much alarmed as ourselves we mounted our horses, which were heavily loaded, and took the back retreat. The Indians raised a tremendous yell, showered down from the mountain top, and almost cut off our retreat. We here put whip to our horses and they pursued us in close quarters until we reached the plains, when we left them behind. On this trip one man was closely fired on by a party of Blackfeet; several others were closely pursued.

"On this trip I lost 1 horse by accident, and the last spring 2 by the Utaws, who killed 3 for the purpose of eating them, 1 of which was a favorite buffalo horse. This loss can not be computed at less than $450. A few days previous to my arrival at this place, a party of about 120 Blackfeet approached the camp and killed a Snake Indian and his squaw. The alarm was immediately given and the Snakes, Utaws, and whites sallied forth for battle. The enemy fled to the mountain to a small concavity thickly grown with small timber surrounded by open ground. In this engagement the squaws were busily engaged in throwing up batteries and dragging off the dead. There were only six whites engaged in this battle, who immediately advanced within pistol shot and you may be assured that almost every shot counted one. The loss of the Snakes was 3 killed and the same number wounded; that of the whites, 1 wounded and 2 narrowly made their escape; that of the Utaws was none, though they gained great applause for their bravery. The loss of the enemy is not known—six were found dead on the ground; a great number besides were carried off on horses. To-morrow I depart for the West."

There is good evidence that Joseph Meek visited this region in 1829. "The River of the West," written by Mrs. Frances Fuller Victor, is in reality his biography, and written while he was still living. This book was copyrighted in 1869 and a copy of it is now in the rare book section of the Library of Congress. Therein is found the description of the hot springs region quoted on page 34 of Chittenden's work. Meek was later a member of the Oregon Legislature in 1846, and in 1848 was appointed United States marshal.

JIM BRIDGER

James Bridger, the noted hunter and scout, is clearly shown to have visited the region at various times from 1830 on, and his reports, although not generally credited, did contribute materially to later bringing about actual exploration.

Lieut. J. W. Gunnison, "of the topographical engineers," wrote a small history of the Mormons which was copyrighted September 28, 1852. Therein we find on page 151 the following:

"The builder of Fort Bridger is one of the hardy race of mountain trappers who are now disappearing from the continent, being inclosed in the wave of civilization. These trappers have made a thousand fortunes for eastern men, and by their improvidence have nothing for themselves. Major Bridger, or 'old Jim,' has been more wise of late, and laid aside a competence; but the mountain tastes, fostered by 28 years of exciting scenes, will probably keep him there for life. He has been very active, and traversed the region from the headwaters of the Missouri to the Del Norte and along the Gila to the Gulf, and thence throughout Oregon and the interior of California. His graphic sketches are delightful romances. With a buffalo skin and piece of charcoal, he will map out any portion of this immense region, and delineate mountains, streams, and the circular valleys called 'holes,' with wonderful accuracy; at least we may so speak of that portion we traversed after his descriptions were given. He gives a picture, most romantic and enticing, of the headwaters of the Yellowstone. A lake 60 miles long, cold and pellucid, lies embosomed amid high precipitous mountains. On the west side is a sloping plain several miles wide, with clumps of trees and groves of pine. The ground resounds to the tread of horses. Geysers spout up 70 feet high, with a terrific hissing noise, at regular intervals. Waterfalls are sparkling, leaping, and thundering down the precipices, and collect in the pool below.

The river issues from this lake, and for 15 miles roars through the perpendicular canyon at the outlet. In this section are the Great Springs, so hot that meat is readily cooked in them, and as they descend on the successive terraces, afford at length delightful baths. On the other side is an acid spring, which gushes out in a river torrent; and below is a cave which supplies 'vermilion' for the savages in abundance. Bear, elk, deer, wolf, and fox are among the sporting game, and the feathered tribe yields its share for variety, on the sportsman's table of rock or turf."

Mr. James Gemmell claimed that in 1846 he went with Jim Bridger on a trading expedition to the Crows and Sioux; that they went up the Green River, camped near the Three Tetons and followed a trail of the Divide between the Snake River and the streams which flow north into Yellowstone Lake. He said, "We camped for a time near the west arm of the lake and here Bridger promised to show me the wonderful spouting springs at the head of the Madison." He stated they visited the Upper and Lower Geyser Basins and Mammoth Hot Springs and went down the Yellowstone to Bensons Landing. This is related by Wm. F. Wheeler, former United States marshal for Montana, in his article on Gemmell in volume 2, Montana Historical Society, page 331.

In Volume III of Scribner's Dictionary of American Biography Bridger is given dignified consideration, the following statement being included:

"With the sole exception of a few Mormon contemporaries, everyone of the scores of pioneers, army men, explorers, and sportsmen with whom he came in contact, mentions his services, his intelligence, and his character in the highest terms. Tall, keen eyed and of commanding personality, this completely illiterate frontiersman placed at the disposal of a multitude of varied western travelers his unrivaled knowledge of the country and the Indian."

He retired in 1868. In 1873, Bridger wrote Gen. B. F. Butler, then Member of Congress from Massachusetts: "You are probably aware that I am one of the earliest and oldest explorers and trappers of the Great West now alive. Many years prior to the Mexican War, the time Fort Bridger, with adjoining territories became the property of the United States, and for 10 years thereafter (1857) I was in peaceable possession of my old trading post, Fort Bridger, occupied it as such and resided thereat." (See H. Rept. 1576, June 4, 1892, 52d Cong. 1st sess.)

FATHER DE SMET, 1851

Father Pierre-Jean De Smet, a Jesuit missionary, traveled extensively in the West in the course of his missionary labors among the Indians. A 4-volume edition of his life, letters, and travels, edited from his original manuscripts by Maj. H. M. Chittenden and Alfred T. Richardson, was published by Harper's in 1905. His description of this region, which he had visited in 1851, is found in his letter of January 20, 1852, quoted by Chittenden in his "Yellowstone National Park" and set forth on pages 660 and 661 of the De Smet work. De Smet credited Bridger's knowledge of this country, as is shown by his reference to Bridger's reports in quotation above referred to.

BONNEVILLE

In volume 1, Montana Historical Society, published in 1876, appears a letter from General Bonneville, answering some inquiry which had been made of him concerning his 1832 travels in the Yellowstone region. He says "You ask me if I know of the thermal springs and geysers. Not personally, but my men knew about them and called their location the 'fire hole.' I recollect the name of Alvarez; I think he came to the mountains as I was leaving them."

There are more or less definite reports of visits to this region by various hunters and trappers, traders and miners, who have, however, left no real report of what they saw.

CAPTAIN RAYNOLDS, 1880

In 1860, Capt. W. F. Raynolds, of the Corps of Topographical Engineers of the Army, made the first Government expedition directed to the Yellowstone Park region. Raynolds had graduated from West Point in 1843 number 5 in the class in which U. S. Grant was number 21. The personnel of that party tied up the past and the future, as it included as guide Jim Bridger and as geologist Dr. F. V. Hayden. The Chittenden work on the park devotes a chapter to this expedition, which failed to accomplish its purpose because of the natural obstacles in the way. His report was published in 1867 as Senate Executive Document 77 of the Fortieth Congress, first session. The delay in its publication was due, no doubt, to the Civil War. His map was, however, available earlier.

THE STUART PARTY, 1888

In 1863 an unofficial expedition was organized with Capt. James Stuart as its chosen leader "to explore a portion of the country drained by the Yellowstone for the purpose of discovering gold mines and securing town sites." Samuel T. Hauser, later to be a member of the Washburn party, was a member of the Stuart expedition. This expedition indirectly resulted in the discovery of Alder Gulch, the rich gold mining region. William Fairweather and several others who had planned to go with Stuart's party were delayed a few days. While they were trying to overtake the party they were attacked and plundered by Crows and forced to turn back. On their return trip the Fairweather party were in camp when one of their party made the Alder Gulch discovery. Alder Gulch was the beginning of Virginia City.

The Stuart party encountered terrific hardships. May 13, 1863, they were attacked by Indians and suffered losses. Hauser had a miraculous escape from death, being struck in the left breast by a bullet which passed through a thick memorandum book in his shirt pocket and was stopped against a rib over his heart. They had constant Indian difficulties. They traveled 1,600 miles from the time they left Bannack City (the town resulting from Grasshopper Diggings), April 9, until their return on June 22, the last 1,200 miles without tents or a change of clothes. For over 400 miles they seem to have been constantly followed by hostile Indians. See the James Stuart diary report of this trip, page 149, of volume 1, Montana Historical Society, which carries extensive notes by Hauser and by Granville Stuart.

WALTER W. DE LACEY, 1863

Two months later another prospecting expedition, simply an aggregation of men looking for gold, headed up the South Snake River. There were originally over 40 in the party, and they promptly elected as their captain Walter Washington De Lacey. He was, no doubt, the best fitted leader, as he was an engineer and a man of capacity, but he says the only man in the party who knew him was the man who proposed him. Chittenden gives several pages to this expedition. The report of it was first published by De Lacey in "A Trip up the Snake River in 1863" at page 113 of volume 1, Montana Historical Society (1876). De Lacy and 14 of the original party were, he says, "the first to ascend to the headwaters of the South Snake River, and thence passed over to the head of the Madison and West Gallatin Rivers, the geographical results of which were published." They discovered the lake called by him "De Lacey Lake" and now Shoshone Lake, and also the Lower Geyser Basin of the Yellowstone Park. They saw "the white, outlying spurs of the Teton Range" August 24, and the next day entered Jackson Hole. They prospected Gros Ventre Creek and September 2 came to the lake he named "De Lacey Lake," later carried as such on his maps and on Colonel Ludlow's 1875 map, but which Hayden called "Shoshone Lake." He says further: "On the 9th we continued our journey; and after traveling 3 miles, descended the mountain side into an open country. In another mile we reached the head of a small stream, the water of which was hot, and soon entered a valley or basin, through which the stream meandered, and which was occupied on every side by hot springs. They were so thick and close that we had to dismount and lead our horses, winding in and out between them as best we could. The ground sounded hollow beneath our feet. We were in great fear of breaking through and proceeded with great caution. The water of these springs was intensely hot, of a beautiful ultramarine blue, some boiling up in the middle, and many of them of very large size, being at least 20 feet in diameter and as deep. There were hundreds of these springs, and in the distance we could see and hear others, which would eject a column of steam with a loud noise. These were probably geysers, and the boys called them 'steamboat springs.' No one in the company had ever seen or heard of anything like this region, and we were all delighted with what we saw. This was what was afterwards called the 'Lower Geyser Basin' of the Madison by Professor Hayden." They went on down the Madison, reached the West Gallatin, and were back to Virginia City September 23, 1863, being absent 51 days and having traveled 500 miles.

While he did not publish any report of his expedition until 1876, he made a reference to it in a letter which he addressed to Prof. A. K. Eaton for use in Raymond's "Mining Resources West of the Rocky Mountains." His letter was probably written in November, 1868, and Raymond's report was published by Congress January 21, 1869, as House Executive Document No. 54 of the Fortieth Congress, third session. In giving information about possible routes for the Northern Pacific, and also for a branch of the Union Pacific, Professor Eaton gives, "the following letter from Capt. W. W. De Lacey, who from his ability as an engineer, as well as his long experience in the Territory, is entitled to the confidence of rail." In this letter De Lacey said: "I am well acquainted with the South Snake River, which I explored from its mouth to its head in 1863 * * *. The river heads in a large lake some 12 or 15 miles long, and flows into another large lake called 'Jackson's Lake' of about the same length. At the head of the South Snake and also on the south fork of the Madison, there are hundreds of hot springs, many of which are 'geysers.'"

De Lacey was well educated and a man of standing. Born in Virginia in 1819 he was privately tutored at West Point by Professor Mahan and had a wide experience. (See brief biography by William F. Wheeler in Vol. II, Montana Historical Society; also in Scribner's Dictionary of American Biography.) He died in 1892.

Chittenden says: "De Lacey might have passed into history as the real discoverer of the Yellowstone but for the fact that he failed to appreciate the true importance of what he saw." He certainly did not attempt to capitalize what he had seen, except as a map maker. It needs to be remembered, however, that 1863 was much earlier than 1870. Montana, as a Territory, was not yet in existence; there was no Helena Herald; in fact, no newspaper; no settlements except hasty mining camps; no telegraph to the outside world, and the outside world had its attention turned to the Civil War. There was no paper to seek a report from De Lacey and spread it to the Nation; no audience to hear lectures; no Jay Cooke to use him for railroad-financing propaganda.

But De Lacey was experienced in map making, and his knowledge was recognized by the people of Montana. The first legislature of the new Territory, meeting in the winter of 1864-65, engaged De Lacey to make a map of the Territory, for the purpose of laying off counties. In this map he embodied the knowledge he had acquired.

In 1870 a map of Montana, drawn by him, was published by Colton Bros., of New York. In making this map he marks the route of the Folsom-Cook expedition, showing he had contacted with them.

Henry Gannett wrote (1878): "The first authentic information regarding the great natural wonders of the park was derived from a prospecting party under the leadership of W. W. De Lacey, who in 1863 visited the Lower Geyser Basin."