Chapter 3:
The National Park Service
Not long after I had entered on duty, Albright called
me to his office and told me he had worked up a schedule for a trip I
was to make to the West. It was designed primarily to give me a chance
to get acquainted with some of the large parks and the field personnel
and to learn about some of the land problems firsthand. I was delighted
over the prospect of seeing the national parks in operation and of
meeting some of the old-time park superintendents.
I started west by train in May, 1931, and my first
stop was Grand Canyon National Park. Minor R. "Tilly" Tillotson was the
superintendent. I had one of the real experiences of my life at the
Grand Canyon, and I never let Tilly forget it. I did not realize it
fully at the time, but I am convinced that Horace Albright was sending
me around to some of his tried and true park people as a sort of test
and also to give me a little "hazing," as if I were joining a
fraternity. Tillotson met me at the station and had a very fine hotel
room ready for me. I met several of the staff, and then Tilly turned me
over to the chief ranger. He suggested that we go by muleback the next
morning down to Phantom Ranch at the bottom of the canyon, spend the
night there, and come back the following day. We'd have the rest of that
day and a third day along the South Rim of the canyon to review some of
their land needs. That sounded reasonable. Early the next day the chief
ranger and I got on our mules and started down the Bright Angel Trail.
We went all the way to the bottom, across the canyon, and about
two-thirds of the trail up the North Rim Trail, then back down to the
ranch, getting in late but in time for dinner. The chief ranger rode his
mule all the way. I did not want him to outdo me, and so I rode mine all
the way, too. Anyone who has ever ridden the steep Bright Angel Trail on
a stiff-legged mule for some ten hours knows how I felt. I had a hard
time sitting down that night. The next morning when we were about to
start out, I told the chief ranger, "All right, now, I took it
yesterday, and I think I took it in the spirit in which it was meant,
but if something has to carry something out of this canyon, I'll carry
the mule, he won't carry me." And so I walked practically the whole way
up the canyon trail to the South Rim that morning. When we reached the
top, Tilly met us with a grin on his face.
From the Grand Canyon I went on to Sequoia National
Park, where I met the superintendent, Colonel John White, a man in his
early fifties who had received his military rank during the Philippine
engagements as one of the constabulary. He was pleasant yet very
independent, a world traveler and soldier of fortune before he became a
park superintendent. Apparently he was having some kind of running
differences with Albright, although I didn't know that at the time.
Colonel White ran his shop as a military man would; he was firm and
decisive. He was quite a collector of surplus property, especially old
military equipment from World War I. After a day in the field, a good
part of it in the inspiring giant redwood forest, we spent most of the
second day in the office and in his home. We talked nearly the whole day
about various things that he was particularly interested in, and a lot
of his statements took the form of questions though he never asked for
approval of anything in particular. As the day went on I felt sure he
had received a letter from the director covering several of the subjects
he was bringing up, and so I took the precaution of not expressing
outright agreement or opinions on anything. After all, the purpose of
this trip was simply to get acquainted and to better understand some of
the field problems.
On the third day I left for San Francisco, and on the
train I got a little concerned about some of the things Colonel White
had brought up. I decided to write a report to the director on both my
Grand Canyon and Sequoia visits. I ended the letter saying that, while
Colonel White had not asked for my approval of his ideas, the fact that
I had not said much might have led him to believe I was in accord with
his position. I wrote that I would report in more detail when I got back
to Washington. Apparently as soon as I had left the park Colonel White
also wrote to the director, telling him that I'd been there, that we'd
gone over several matters in detail, that he thought very highly of me,
and that I had approved this and that and that! The director, I
understand, was about ready to summon me back to Washingtonuntil
he received my letter. I am certain he would not have fired me, but he
certainly would have thought I was not very smart.
The Park Service had two staff groups based in the
Bay Area. They were headed by Frank Kittredge, chief engineer, and Tom
Vint, chief landscape architect, in San Francisco; and John J. Coffman,
chief forester, in Berkeley. These were the main technical staffs, and
their primary duty was to service the parks. I called first on
Kittredge, since he was the senior officer. He introduced me to his
staff, explained how they operated, and took me to visit some of the
important people in the city, after which we were to attend a Park
Service party at his home down the peninsula. The next day I visited
with Chief Landscape Architect Vint. We had much in common and a lot to
talk about. I really got my best insight into the service from Tom. We
went out for dinner in Chinatown that night. The next day Tom and Frank
took me to the ferry to Oakland, where I boarded the train. Those who
have taken this ferry ride will agree, I think, that it gave one time to
enjoy the skyline of San Francisco and the view of the hills beyond
Oakland and Berkeley, sights worth more than the time now saved by
driving across the Bay Bridge.
I had three days on the train to write up my notes.
The trip had been an enjoyable and a very worthwhile experience. On the
whole it gave me an essential understanding of how the National Park
Service operated. I got acquainted with many of the front-line
peoplethe ones who met the public, protected the parks, and
planned and developed the facilities. They were my kind of people, and
in my mind I felt that I had been accepted by them. They had given me a
few hurdles to go over and had tested me to find out whether I was going
to meet their standards and take my responsibilities in the Park Service
family as seriously as they did.
San Francisco was the base of the Park Service's
technical staffs because of the fifty-three areas in the national park
system in 1929, amounting to about 8,273,835 acres, all but one, Acadia
National Park, were west of the Mississippi River.
As a result of a study authorized by Congress
February 21, 1925, to look into the possibility of national parks in the
eastern part of the United States, Great Smoky Mountains National Park,
in North Carolina and Tennessee, Shenandoah National Park, in Virginia,
and Mammoth Cave National Park, in Kentucky, received congressional
authorization in 1926. The authorization provided for the National Park
Service to assume protection once certain lands were acquired and given
to the federal government, but the areas could not be established as
national parks until a majority of the land had come into federal
ownership. Accordingly, Great Smoky was established for protection only
on February 6, 1930, and established for full administration June 15,
1934; Mammoth Cave reached the minimum stage for protection on May 22,
1936, and full establishment on July 1, 1941; and Shenandoah was given
protective status on February 16, 1928, and was fully established
December 26, 1935.
All three of these areas required a great amount of
negotiation and public-relations work. Shenandoah involved the
acquisition of over 193,500 acres, and Great Smoky involved over 500,000
acres divided fairly evenly between North Carolina and Tennessee.
Associate Director Carnmerer spent a great part of his time on these
projects, working with the states and individuals as the representative
not only of the Park Service but also of John D. Rockefeller, Jr., who
had committed himself to match the states' funds for land purchase up to
five million dollars. As head of the Branch of Lands, I worked closely
with Cammerer in carrying out these projects. He was the top man, and I
was his "leg man." He personally handled most of the negotiations, even
after he became director in 1933.
Shenandoah was the first of these three parks to
materialize, although because of the depression progress was difficult.
The Park Service, as with all federal agencies, was hard pressed for
appropriations. Shortly after I came into the service, government
salaries were cut 10 per cent across the board as a part of government
economy under the great stress of the depression. President Herbert
Hoover, a Republican, was having a very difficult time with a Congress
that had a Republican Senate and a Democratic House of Representatives.
He was able to get funds to begin a small public works program, however,
including a start on construction of Skyline Drive in the authorized
Shenandoah National Park, from Panorama, where U.S. highway 211 crossed
the Blue Ridge Mountains, to Skyland, a distance of about twelve
miles.
We had a planning meeting at Skyland. There was quite
a summer cabin development there, but the only way to reach it was over
a very steep, rocky dirt road up Kettle Canyon on the west side of the
Blue Ridge Mountains. The meeting, which was attended by Secretary of
the Interior Ray Lyman Wilbur, Arno Cammerer, and others, concerned the
establishment of park boundary lines and an inspection of Skyland and
Skyline Drive under construction.
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Of all the areas of the national park
system, Shenandoah National Park in the Blue Ridge Mountains of
Virginia, with its Skyland and Stonyman Mountain, is the one the author
goes back to year after year.
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The Blue Ridge, part of which is now Shenandoah
National Park, had been settled in early colonial days by people with
very meager funds on land given them by the more fortunate plantation
owners down on the Piedmont Plateau. We found the people living there
extremely poor and uneducated. They spoke a dialect that dated back to
the late seventeenth-century English spoken by their forebears. Marriage
within families had occurred often enough that inbreeding was a problem,
and the incidence of mental retardation was high. The families all had
small apple orchards and cornfields and made moonshine whiskey and
applejack, though their market was greatly reduced when Prohibition went
out in 1933. The people's houses were primarily one-room cabins, and
their children were numerous. The property lines were handed down only
by word of mouth; for example, "from the rock to the big oak tree over
to the chestnut tree and back to the stream and up to the rock again."
In many instances the rock or the tree or both had long since
disappeared. The state bought the land, but the question of establishing
acceptable boundary lines and good titles was most difficult. As a final
solution, the state placed all its money into the courts of six
counties, three on each side of the Blue Ridge Mountains, which
Shenandoah National Park straddles. Through a special law enacted by the
Virginia legislature, the courts put a blanket condemnation on all the
property within the park boundary line and proceeded to use the funds to
buy up the land according to appraisals based on property lines
recognized and established by the courts. At the same time the people
were allowed to continue living there. In condemning the land, the state
took title to the property and then transferred it to the federal
government. Only after the government received the titles could the work
in the park begin.
The inhabitants posed another difficult problem.
Their holdings had very little value, especially during the depression
years. The amount the owners received for the land and so-called
improvements did not provide anywhere near enough money for them to
settle in a new location. The character and mentality of these people
compounded the dilemma. It is hard to believe that people could be so
poor and isolated in the twentieth century within a hundred miles of the
capital of the United States. It was clear to Director Albright that,
until a suitable solution was found, the service would have to let these
people stay in their cabins. The opportunity to relocate them came
several years later, in the mid-thirties, when the Resettlement
Administration established farms in the valley, built reasonably
comfortable houses, and moved the people there. But they were so used to
the mountain country that after a few months they began to move back to
their old homes. Finally, steps were taken to allow these people to live
in the hollows until the older members of the family died. In the
meantime the children were sent to school at government expense in order
to fit them for reestablishment in the communities.
We had some of the same problems in establishing
Great Smoky Mountains National Park, although not quite as bad or
extensive. The mountaineers of that region were strong, intelligent, and
in good health, with no apparent problems of inbreeding, and they
possessed many basic skills. They had some problems similar to those of
the Shenandoah mountain people, but most of them bargained for the sale
of their homesteads, sold them, and left the mountains without much
assistance from the government. Some sold subject to a life
interest.
The Branch of Lands had a nearly continuous job of
reviewing and changing the boundary lines of Great Smoky, Shenandoah,
and Mammoth Cave national parks largely as a result of poor surveys and
maps. The Shenandoah map was in three sections, and we could not get
them on our drafting tables. We would spend Saturdays and Sundays with
these maps stretched on the floor in the hall in the Interior Building
trying to get them in shape for court and fieldwork.
There are only two ways in which areas of the
national park system can be established: by congressional legislation
or, in the case of nationally important historic, prehistoric, or
scientific areas on government-owned land, by presidential proclamation.
Both are often influenced by political circumstances. For instance, the
approach of an election year has considerable influence on the actions
of Congress and the administration. During the last days of a session of
Congress there is a rush to get legislation enacted. The same urgency
obtains towards the end of a president's term in office. The reason, of
course, is that if a project to which expensive and time-consuming
research and hearings have been devoted fails to receive final approval
before the session or term ends, the whole process has to be repeated in
order to present it to a new Congress or president.
Special circumstances surround the establishment of
each new park area. Virgin Islands National Park is a good case in
point. In the fall of 1955, Helen and I were in Grand Teton National
Park. At Moose, where the Park Service headquarters is located, there
was a log building that housed both the post office and a fishing tackle
store. On a visit to the post office I noticed Laurance S. Rockefeller
in the store buying fishing tackle. I stepped over to say hello to him,
and he invited Helen and me to come up to his J Y Ranch the next morning
and look over some maps of the Virgin Islands. He explained that he had
been down to the islands in his boat some three or four years previously
and had bought a piece of property called Caneel Bay Plantation, a
depleted, unused tract with a fine beach. He had recently been down that
way again, and a man named Frank Stick had given him a carbon copy of a
report on a proposed national park on the Island of Saint Johns, in the
Virgin Islands. It was dated 1939 and addressed to me as assistant
director in charge of the Branch of Lands. I assured Laurance that I was
still interested in the proposed national park. Frank Stick was an old
friend of mine who had been of great help in the establishment of Cape
Hatteras National Seashore, in North Carolina. The report he had given
to Rockefeller was no doubt one I had asked Hal Hubler to prepare in
1939 when I was in the Virgin Islands in connection with the CCC
program. Hubler, a landscape architect and superintendent of a local CCC
camp at the time, had told CCC Director Fechner and me about Caneel Bay
on Saint Johns Island and was so persuasive that we went over to see it
and actually went swimming. However, the war came on before we could do
anything about the proposed park.
Helen and I went up to the Rockefeller ranch the next
morning and, while she and Mary Rockefeller took a walk, I joined
Laurance in the recreation building, where he had at least a half-dozen
maps and the report that Frank Stick had given him. I explained to
Rockefeller that, while I was still in favor of a national park in the
Virgin Islands, we could not proceed on the basis of the old report; it
would have to be brought up to date. He wanted to know whether we could
get on with a new study right away, and I told him that we had the
necessary staff but were a little short of travel money. He readily
helped us with that problem, and we came back with a report before the
end of the calendar year and proceeded to draft legislation for
consideration by the secretary of the interior and the Bureau of the
Budget. The proposed bill was cleared and was introduced in Congress in
early 1956.
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Laurance E. Rockefeller (third from
right) hands Secretary of the Interior Fred A. Seaton the deed to
the land establishing Virgin Islands National Park on December 1, 1956.
On the left: Representative O'Brien, of New York, and Director
Wirth, On the right: Representative Wayne Aspinall, of Colorado,
and Representative A. L. Miller, of Nebraska.
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In the meantime Laurance Rockefeller employed Frank
Stick and proceeded to acquire land for the proposed national park. The
legislation required that at least 50 per cent of the lands authorized
within the boundary of the national park be in federal ownership before
the park could be established. The bill was enacted by Congress and was
signed into law on August 2, 1956, which was a very short time to get a
bill processed into law. In that brief period Laurance Rockefeller had
acquired more than 50 per cent of the land needed for the park, and the
lawyers had already begun to get the titles in condition acceptable to
the attorney general of the United States.
In due course all the details were cleared up, and
success was celebrated with a big barbecue at Cruz Bay on Saint Johns
Island December 1, 1956. Secretary of the Interior Fred Seaton and the
governor of the Virgin Islands were there, and Rockefeller presented to
the secretary the deeds to the lands he had bought for the Virgin
Islands National Park. The park project, originally suggested seventeen
years earlier, was started in earnest in the fall of 1955 and completed
in a little more than a year's time.
The Rockefeller family for two generations has been
most considerate and helpful in the development of the national park
system. John D. Rockefeller, Jr., devoted much of his time making this
country a better place to live in, certainly from the standpoint of
conservation. His most heralded contribution was the restoration of
colonial Williamsburg, in Virginia, and the establishment of the
Williamsburg Foundation to operate it. Williamsburg is closely
associated with Colonial National Historic Park, which includes Yorktown
and Jamestown Island. The scope of Rockefeller's contributions to the
national park system was broad and impressive. A large portion of the
land for Acadia National Park, in Maine, was purchased by him and
conveyed to the federal government. Grand Teton National Park, in
Wyoming, is another example. Although a good bit of the land was in
government ownership, a large amount remained in private ownership,
notably some tracts in the valley on both sides of the Snake River.
Grand Teton was established in 1929, but its original area included only
the mountains. A proposal to extend the park boundary to include the
valley was vigorously opposed, but the extension was finally settled by
an act of Congress in 1950. At that time Rockefeller, who had been
buying most of the private holdings in the disputed area, donated his
land to the government for inclusion in the park. When Great Smoky
Mountains National Park was established in 1934, Rockefeller matched the
five million dollars provided by the states of North Carolina and
Tennessee for land acquisition. Then, along the 450 miles of the Blue
Ridge Parkway, he made other donations, including the Linville Falls
area in North Carolina, giving part of the land to the U.S. Forest
Service and the falls themselves for the parkway. In the West, he made
contributions toward purchase of the redwoods, both the gigantia and the
coastal redwoods, and also provided funds to buy and preserve the very
fine western yellow pine stand as an addition to Yosemite National Park.
Rockefeller also gave great assistance to the state parks of New York,
especially Palisades Interstate Park, on the west side of the Hudson
River in New Jersey and New York.
The daughter and five sons of John D. Rockefeller,
Jr., are well known for their divergent interests, which include the
conservation of our natural resources. Laurance S. Rockefeller in
particular has a great interest in parks at all levels of government
which brought me in direct contact with him long before I became
director of the National Park Service in 1951. Since retirement I have
been a consultant to him. As already described, Laurance S. Rockefeller
gave his government the Virgin Islands National Park, and he has
enlarged on his father's gifts of land at Teton and other national parks
around the country. He and the various organizations that he belongs to
have made many contributions to research that have advanced and will
continue to advance the field of conservation, especially the park
field. Laurance Rockefeller is a very imaginative person, vigorous,
determined, and extremely generous. He's quick at grasping the essential
points and relating them to the objective. One of Laurance's greatest
contributions was his chairmanship of the Outdoor Recreation Resources
Review Commission, which opened a new era in park development and led to
the establishment of the Bureau of Outdoor Recreation. That bureau
provides financial aid for the development of park and recreation
facilities at all levels of government. He was also chairman and a
member of the presidential Citizens' Advisory Committee on Environmental
Quality. To these efforts he devoted a great deal of his time and
resources.
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