Chapter Two:
THE WHITE MAN COMETH
The sun set gloriously behind the Chief Mountain
just as I would have given anything for one half-hour's longer light. I
was, most probably, the only white man that had ever been
there.
Capt. John Palliser, 8 August 1858
[In 1913] I was whisked about in motor cars which
seemed an affront to the former sanctity of those mountains; to submit
to being conducted by licensed guides over trails which I had myself
discovered and made . . .
Henry L. Stimson, 1949
I was the first woman to look on those mountains
and glaciersit was absolutely wild country, and very
beautiful.
Mrs. George Bird Grinnell, date unknown
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James Madison Alden, an artist with the
1860 Northwest Boundary Survey, recorded his impressions of the Kintla
Lake and Waterton Lakes region. Since few verbal impressions remain from
those early government surveyors, Alden's portfolio of twenty-two
sketches of Glacier's northern mountains provided the American public
with its first glimpse of its scenic grandeur. (Courtesy of National
Archives)
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A lone hiker climbs into an obscure cirque north of
Gardner Point near the Canadian border and another adventurer scrambles
cross country between Jackstraw and Lena Lakes. They both investigate a
little-known region and become more familiar with its physical features.
They both consider themselves explorers, and in the narrow definition of
the term "explorer," they fit that description. Even in the twentieth
century, parts of Glacier's wilderness regions remain virtually
unvisited. Only to the most adventurous individuals will places like Boy
Lake or Kupunkamint Mountain become objectives for investigation rather
than points on a map or features viewed from the window of an airplane.
Just as certain individuals today display a curiosity about the physical
features within the mountainous territory, the Glacier area attracted
numerous adventurers and explorers during its history. The explorers
entered the region with different objectives and their impressions
remain somewhat obscure. But the collective impact was to introduce the
region to its marginal settlement, its resource exploitation, and a much
greater visitation.
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Viewing the mountains of Glacier, early
visitors found a virtual wilderness. Fur trappers, missionaries,
railroad surveyors, and boundary locators passed near or through the
region, but interest in the area was slow to develop. (Courtesy of
Glacier National Park Historical Collections)
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Since early explorers failed to leave elaborate
reports detailing their visits to the Glacier area, one must treat the
European-American approach to the area in generalities. Our recorded
evidence shows almost no effort to enter the mountainous area of Glacier
with the expressed purpose of "exploration" until the 1850s. Both
geography and the presence of the hostile Blackfeet made alternative
approaches much more acceptable. Once again Glacier must be treated as
part of the vast Rocky Mountain front range and the journeys of
explorers to and through these mountains must be considered as part of a
very gradual, transcontinental movement.
The motivations of these early white visitors
developed from a strong international competition for the possession of
North America; from an economic rivalry for the trade with Indians and
for furs; from a desire to extend the Christian religion to Indians; in
response to a demand for the construction of a transcontinental
railroad; and finally, to clarify an international boundary between
Canada and the United States.
Thus, national goals or international rivalries
directly affected the adventurers who entered or came near the region;
these nationalistic and economic objectives affected what the men were
looking for as well as what they saw. A lone fur trapper looked for safe
passages through the region or for signs of Indians or for beaver dams,
but he did not concern himself with potential railroad routes or whether
he was fighting a Blackfoot war party at the 48th or 51st parallel.
Competition for the ownership of this region was not
merely between Indian occupants and white invaders. The European
struggle to dominate North America meant a constant British, French, and
Spanish conflict among themselves east of the Mississippi River until
the expulsion of the French in 1763. That international rivalry for
possession of land and for the fur trade of the interior gradually moved
westward. In the 1660s, the French explorers Pierre Esprit, sieur de
Radisson and Medard Chouart, sieur de Groseilliers skirted the Great
Lakes and headed westward into Manitoba opening those regions to trade.
The British responded with voyages and settlements in the Hudson Bay
region and formed the "Governor and Company of Adventurers of England
Trading in Hudson's Bay," later shortened to Hudson's Bay Company. With
a charter from King Charles II, Hudson's Bay Company claimed the entire
region including all rivers and tributaries which drained into the
Bay.
In return for this vast stretch of land, the extent
of which was not known until a century later, the Company was to pay the
king "two Elks and two Black Beavers" whenever he happened to enter the
country. The northeast third of Glacier Park would be affected by that
claim even though Hudson Bay and those first British posts were a
thousand miles distant.
French competition for the beaver trade and against
the British intensified almost immediately. The statement "possession is
nine-tenths of the law" applied successfully for the French trappers and
traders for the next one hundred years. The French voyageurs and
coureurs de bois (woods runners) lived with the Indians, adapted
to the wilderness environment, and dominated the interior of America
while the British traders, protected by their navy, established coastal
forts and hoped Indians would visit them to engage in trade.
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In his pen-and-ink drawing entitled "La
Verendryes Discover the Rocky Mountains," Charles M. Russell depicted
this event of the 1740s. Russell, a noted western artist, lived near
Apgar, within Glacier Park, and used the mountainous background of Lake
McDonald in a number of his paintings. (Courtesy of Amon Carter
Museum)
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French connections with Indian leaders meant British
trade suffered. As early as 1690, the Bay Company dispatched Henry
Kelsey to the interior to encourage the Indians to travel with their
furs to the British forts, but his efforts were unsuccessful. French
exploration and expansion continued, and, by the 1740s, a notable
expedition led by Pierre Gaultier de Varennes, sieur de la
Vérendryes, brought fur traders of Montreal into the upper Great
Plains region. There is some evidence that the expedition sighted the
Rocky Mountains, but the exact location of their visit is unknown, as
the "high, . . . well-wooded" mountains seen could have been either the
Big Horn range, the Laramie range, or the Black Hills. The British
reacted in 1754 by dispatching Anthony Hendry to the interior. He made
his way southwestward into present-day Alberta, observed the Indians
living there, took a "long distance" look at the Rockies, and returned
to Hudson Bay. His observations of the Gros Ventre, Assiniboine, and
possibly the Blackfeet led him to regard them as an encouraging
potential market for British trading, but little or no trade
resulted.
When the French and Indian War ended in 1763, the
French lost their entire North American possessions. But after their
victory, the British did not lose their competitors. French-Canadians
working out of Montreal did not concede trade to the Hudson's Bay
Company. French trappers and traders (some also known as "Pedlars")
formed their own organizationsthe North West Company and the X Y
Companyand scoured the upper Great Plains, and later the Pacific
Northwest, looking for furs and competing with the British. According to
historian-ethnologist John Ewers, the French-Canadians were probably the
first whites the Blackfeet met. The Blackfoot name for Frenchmen was
translated as "Real (or Original) Old Man People" or the first white
men.
Even after the North West Company was absorbed by
Hudson's Bay Company in 1821, men of French extraction continued to
inhabit the wilderness, live with the Indian tribes, and extract the
valuable furs from the region. Men like Jean Baptiste Charbonneau (whose
wife was Sacajawea), Pierre Chouteau, James Bordeaux, Antoine Robidoux,
and many others reflect their continued influence as the Americans
became engaged in the western fur trade.
From 1763 until the Louisana Purchase in 1803, the
entire upper Missouri River region, including Glacier, remained
generally unexplored and unvisited. Technically, the Spanish held claim
to the interior Missouri River Basin, but the British furthered their
invasion from the north. Bay Company agent Matthew Cocking traveled to
Blackfoot country in 1772, again attempting to encourage the Indians to
travel to Hudson Bay. Since the Indians would not travel such long
distances or use canoes, Company officials finally decided to establish
trading posts in the interior. They established Cumberland House in 1774
on the lower Saskatchewan River, and in 1780 they located Buckingham
House some five hundred and fifty miles upriver, providing permanent
contact with the Blackfeet.
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Upon his return eastward from the
Pacific coast, Meriwether Lewis, co-leader of the famous Lewis and Clark
Expedition of 1803-06, ventured northward to the 49th parallel and
viewed Glacier's front range. A hostile encounter with the Piegan made
Lewis and his men flee the area. (Courtesy of National
Archives)
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The British approached Glacier's mountains while
traveling in the company of Piegan hunting parties. The famous explorer
David Thompson probably became the first British representative and
first white man to view the Glacier region during a 1780s
reconnaissance. By 1792, another Bay Company agent, Peter Fidler,
arrived near the base of the mountains while accompanying some Piegans
and he attached the first place name to the region. Fidler's map
included "King's Mountain," which he had derived from the Indian name
meaning "Governor of the Mountains." The name was later changed and
still remains "Chief Mountain." Fidler's account of his journey and his
geographical information became incorporated into a 1795 map published
by the London mapmaker Aaron Arrowsmith. For the first time a section of
Glacier appeared to be "discovered."
At the same time Fidler made his observations, the
Spanish moved northward to assert their claims. Led by Santiago de la
Iglesia, several expeditions during the 1790s attempted to open trade in
the upper Missouri region, to cross the Rocky Mountains, and to reach
the Pacific Ocean. The Spanish failed to make their transcontinental
journey, but expeditions were continuing when the Americans purchased
Louisiana Territory in 1803.
The purchase of Louisiana produced an immediate
American presence in the region. Planned prior to the purchase, but
dispatched in 1803 to gain information regarding the country, the Lewis
and Clark expedition spent three years exploring the Missouri River
drainage, crossing into the Columbia basin, traveling to the Pacific
Coast, and returning eastward to stimulate American interest in the
entire area.
Upon their return journey, the expedition divided for
a time, and Captain Meriwether Lewis traveled northward to explore the
headwaters of the Marias River. After reaching the Cut Bank-Two Medicine
River junction which formed the Marias River, he followed the Cut Bank
branch north toward the 49th parallel. However, due to bad weather, a
lack of food, the fear of an "interview" with "the vicious and
profligate rovers" as he called the Blackfeet and Minnetarees, as well
as the necessity of completing their expedition yet that season, Lewis
decided to return to the Missouri River. Lewis observed: "The course
of the mountains still continued from southeast to northwest; in which
last direction from us, the front range appears to terminate abruptly at
a distance of thirty-five miles." From their most northern position,
Camp Disappointment (between today's Cut Bank and Browning, Montana),
the American explorers observed the front range of Glacier's mountains.
On their 1806 map, the "Peccneaus or Blood Indians" were shown far to
the north of the Marias River, but "The King" mountain is clearly
designated near the 49th parallel. Their subsequent encounter with
"Minetarees" (almost certainly Piegans) two days later, in which the
Americans killed two of the Indians, made Lewis's party flee the area
with substantial haste. Lewis noted that these Indians traded northward
with a post on the Saskatchewan River, and his unfortunate incident
south of Camp Disappointment on the Two Medicine River would cement the
Indians to that Canadian trading relationship for the next thirty years.
The Piegan and other Blackfoot tribes would remain hostile to almost any
American presence in or near their territory.
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