Canyon de Chelly Administrative History

A major advance in 1964 was the completion of the new visitor center in June. [156] This was barely in time to keep pace with the increasing visitation and the work load it imposed on a small staff. According to a report submitted in August:

we are now operating a new Visitor Center, serving over twice as many visitors as last year and doing it with no increase in seasonal graded personnel and one less ungraded position. To do this it is necessary to schedule tours of duty with a minimum of overlap and require unlimited contributed overtime. We are fortunate to have a staff loyal and interested enough to contribute this uncompensated time. This will not last ofrever [sic] and services, etc. will out of necessity have to decrease. [157]

The exhibits had been designed, and only a little work remained on assembling a few additional items for inclusion in the displays before they were ready to install. Loans of specimens were arranged from the Arizona State Museum, the American Museum of Natural History, the University of Colorado, and The Kit Carson Memorial Foundation. What were assumed to be the final photographs were sent to San Francisco in May. [158] In July Guillet was asked to obtain specimens of Navajo jewelry for the exhibit on Navajo crafts. It was suggested that he try to get these from the tribe as donations or at reduced prices since their use would be of advertising value to the Navajos. [159] Whether he succeeded in this is not recorded, but additional requests for photographs required more shipments of pictures in July and August. [160] By September 10 the exhibits were almost complete and the monument was sent exhibit record forms detailing the cleaning and maintenance that they would require. [161] The exhibits themselves arrived at the end of the month, and on October 14 Exhibit Specialists Clair Younkin and Reginald Butcher arrived to install them. [162] Installation of displays at some of the overlooks along the canyon added to the interpretive facilities that did not require personal services, while new slide talks were prepared for evening use at the campground. [163]

While Navajo contributions to the planning and development of the expanded interpretive program may have remained somewhat limited, the number of tribal members who were recipients of these services was increasing markedly. The extent to which adult tribesmen availed themselves of these opportunities is difficult to judge, although it is apparent that Guillet did not ignore them in his visitation figures as had some of the early custodians. Children as members of school classes and other organized groups received special mention in reports of interpretive activities, however, and a large proportion of these were all or largely Navajo. In May, a prime month for school visits, a special tour was given to 27 students from the Chinle Public Elementary School, and other groups included 21 students and teachers from a Seventh Day Adventist Mission School, 32 students and teachers from the Pinon Public Elementary School, 28 students from the Tohatchi Public Elementary School, 30 students from the Ganado Elementary School, and another 120 students in two groups from the Chinle Public Elementary School. [164] The monument had clearly become important because of its educational potential within Navajo country. This developing new role for the monument was receiving recognition and would be taken into account in future interpretive planning to a greater degree. Regional Director Daniel B. Beard wrote the Director:

As you know, the scope of the interpretive program was expanded because Navajos from all over the reservation take considerable interest in this area as an historic site of importance in their Tribal history.

The nature and size of the collections might change considerably from time to time. Audiovisual programs should be well done and must be bilingual. [165]

Toward the end of the year a new procedure was instituted for Guillet's reports on Navajo affairs. All correspondence of any sort relating to this subject sent to the regional office was also to be sent to the Director. Special reports were to be made also on certain subjects, which would then be handled only summarily in the monthly reports. [166] The importance of Guillet's work, affecting directly or indirectly at least nine Park Service areas, had thus given him direct access to the very top levels of administration in virtually any situation that he might consider significant in its relation to tribal matters.

In 1965 Guillet devoted much of his time to implementing the policies he had worked out during the preceeding 2 years. The massive increase in visitation and the undersized staff hampered further innovation, but significant gains were made along the lines already laid out.

Continued political turmoil at Window Rock prevented any real accomplishments on the tribal level, but the major efforts were still directed toward matters in local Navajo relations. [167]

The hiring of Navajo personnel continued to be an important goal, but received a minor setback early in the year when Helen Draper, hired as clerk-typist in a career-conditional position, resigned. [168] Navajos filled all laborer and truck driver positions, however, and the seasonal ranger positions were taken by Clarence Gorman, who returned in May, and Larry Dennison, who was hired in June. [169] James Ashike also served as a seasonal ranger, but available sources do not document the date of his hiring. [170] Gorman stayed on until October 23, was rehired as a laborer the next day, and was promoted to Foreman I and given career-conditional status on November 21. [171]

The contracting of construction and soil and moisture jobs that did not require special equipment to local Navajos was also continued. On June 1 five contracts of this sort were let; one for the planting of 15,000 seedlings and 5,000 willow cuttings; two others for the building of spider jetties at the del Muerto crossing and at headquarters; one for painting a comfort station; and the fifth for spraying to control insect infestation. [172]

Of special value during the summer were the 16 Navajo students hired under the Neighborhood Youth Corps program. [173] A winter program of the same sort allowed the monument to put 9 students to work in October. [174]

Even with this extra help, the level of visitation required more time for visitor services and patrol than the available staff could afford. During the summer a ranger was stationed at Tsaile Lake to control entry from the upper end of Canyon del Muerto. In this the support of the Tsaile Chapter was obtained by Cook, who attended one of their meetings and explained the problem. His talk was applauded by the chapter members and they passed unanimously a resolution asking the Park Service to establish a ranger station at the lake. [175] His job was made especially difficult because many people did not realize that this was part of the monument and questioned his authority over it. [176] One particular case, in which Chief Ranger Wallace himself took part, was important because it raised the question of jurisdiction. While on routine patrol at the lake he was told by local Navajos that non-Indians had gone down the canyon. He proceeded down the stream and found four men fishing from 1 to 1-1/2 miles below the dam. One of the men was Freeman Tabor of the Bureau of Sports Fisheries. Tabor had helped stock the fish and strongly resented being told that they should not fish there. Wallace handled the situation as diplomatically as possible, explaining the Service's duty to protect the ruins and pointing out a ruin nearby when the fisherman doubted that there were any that far up the canyon. Although Wallace was able to leave them on friendly terms, he wrote a detailed report of the incident. [177] Guillet had signs posted in the area and reported the problem to the regional office. [178]

George W. Miller, acting regional director, wrote the Bureau of Sports Fisheries office in Albuquerque in an effort to settle the matter. [179] A meeting was held by Guillet with Bureau of Sports Fisheries officials on July 27, and an agreement was reached that ensured Park Service control of entry into the canyon. [180] Fishing was allowed for a half mile below the dam, at which point signs and a fence were erected. The tribal Parks and Recreation Department and the National Park Service issued a joint press release explaining the rules and regulations applying at Tsaile. [181]

Various innovations were tried in an attempt to control the increase in unauthorized canyon entries. Among these were horseback patrols and occasional checks by airplane. [182] Funds did not permit the purchase of horses, but rental was possible, and some of the Navajo rangers were willing to contribute their horses. [183] High water frequently curtailed patrol in the canyon bottom during the year, but even under these adverse conditions there were unauthorized entries into the canyons. [184] On January 31 a party of Public Health Service employees illegally drove a sand buggy as far as First Ruin before getting stuck. By the time the incident was reported the water was too high to allow the Park Service power wagon to reach it, and by February 2 the sand buggy had disappeared below the sand. [185] Another party drove a jeep down the foot trail to the Spider Rock Overlook and a rock barricade had to be erected to prevent further vehicular traffic there. [186] Continuing wet weather meant only foot patrols could check the canyon bottom. [187] Vandalism in the more remote areas included the removal of the Spider Rock sign, which caused some visitors to end up at Three Turkey House when trying to find the overlook. [188] By June the canyons were dry enough to be entered, but the danger of becoming stuck was great. Several parties that entered the canyons without permits were escorted out by ranger patrols as travel increased and were all given lectures by the chief ranger. [189]

A particularly touchy case of vandalism was the removal of skulls from two Navajo burials by visitors. The rangers were able to recover them and they were returned to the graves, which were reburied with soil and rock. [190]

Heavy use of the campground required increased patrol in that area also. Increased Navajo use of alcoholic beverages caused some problems, most of which were handled through cooperation with the tribal police. [191] Evening patrols of the campground and headquarters areas were begun in February because of vandalism and disturbances. [192] A rodeo on Memorial Day weekend filled the campground to capacity and extra patrols were required. A special picnic ground for Navajo visitors was set up to help take some of the load off the main campground. [193] The annual Chinle Rodeo was held the end of July and again the campground, having the only public restrooms in town, received heavy use. Maintenance of the facilities was an especially difficult job under the circumstances, and Guillet commented that "we received both compliments and complaints regarding the condition of the restrooms." [194]

The increasing number of problems led to a series of meetings between Wallace and the Navajo Tribal Police. They were able to work out better communications and a coordination of activities that increased mutual assistance. [195] Visitation remained heavy well into the fall and required time that was normally scheduled for post-season maintenance work. [196] Vandalism by both Indian and non-Indian youths became so bad in the campground and headquarters areas that rangers were asked to do night patrol on contributed time. [197] While earlier problems of vandalism might have been a reflection of the general condition of Park Service-Navajo relations in the area, at this time relations with the local people were good, suggesting that the problems encountered were probably more a result of broader white-Navajo conflicts and of the stresses brought on by the increasing urbanization of the Chinle community. The unceasing political factionalism in tribal affairs and the influence of the civil rights movement had both contributed to a growing strain on white-Navajo relations throughout the reservation. Guillet's attention to local rapport had not failed because of these conditions, but his job was made more difficult.

Assistance to Navajo residents of the canyons remained a matter of high priority and involved the usual types of emergency aid. The wet year brought an unusual number of requests to help stuck vehicles, both in the canyons and at the del Muerto crossing, which was repeatedly washed out, repaired, and again washed out. Figures reported of cars and trucks rescued combine those of visitors, Navajos, and governmental agencies, but the numbers are high for the year, with calls for help being answered at all times of the day and night. [198] In April alone 145 vehicles required help at the del Muerto crossing. [199] Rescue efforts were even required for a team and wagon and for a horse caught in quicksand. [200] In one case a Navajo child was asphyxiated in a partially submerged vehicle at the del Muerto crossing and had to be hurried to the Public Health Service Clinic where he was successfully treated. [201] In October the contract for the bridge at the del Muerto crossing was awarded and the only possible solution to the problems there was at last in sight. [202] Work began on November 5 and by the end of the year the bridge was reportedly 21 percent completed. [203]

Miscellaneous emergency assistance included the rescue, with slings and ropes, of 22 goats that had been chased over the cliff by predators. [204]

Not all Navajo-related duties were so conducive to good will. In November it was necessary to have a discussion with a Navajo stockman who had cut the fence at Tsaile to take his sheep through. He agreed not to repeat the offense. [205]

An earlier problem, in April, was that of securing a right of way through the customary use area of Ahghinanabah Hunter in order to make improvements on the south entry road. [206] She was willing to grant this, but did impose conditions in return:

The National Park Service agrees to replace and/or relocate any existing fences which might be disturbed by or for construction purposes. Said fences to be sheep-proof in construction.

It is further agreed that the National Park Service will construct an underpass suitable for vehicle and stock passage between Points PT20+78.35 and PI-19+02.48. This underpass shall be so constructed as not to divert surface water into existing farm plots but to follow the same general runoff pattern now established. [207]

No difficulty was encountered in negotiating the agreement. [208]

The interpretive program underwent some changes during the year, but gains were probably offset somewhat by losses. A new campfire circle was designed, but no work accomplished in its construction, while the audio-visual room in the visitor center was converted for use as a library and workspace for the archeologist. [209] With the heavy work load for the limited staff and the loss of Stewart, who was replaced as archeologist by a man (Robert Nichols) with no experience in the interpretive field, the organizational system had to be changed to permit greater flexibility in work assignments and to give the chief ranger some administrative responsibility for the interpretive work. [210] Work continued on new wayside exhibits and on a revision of the White House Trail guide booklet, but the demand for interpretive services soon left little time for the development of new materials. [211] By March all uniformed personnel and the clerk-typist were taking turns at the information desk, and in April only the use of contributed time allowed the personnel to keep up with the job. [212] By June the addition of seasonal help had permitted programs in the campground and the audio visual room, [213] and in July the presence of Neighborhood Youth Corps students made possible additional services, including conducted tours at White House. [214] Even so there was not time to keep up with development of interpretive facilities. The old wayside exhibits at White House Overlook had reached such a state of disrepair in August that they had to be removed, but completion of the planned replacements had not been possible. [215] The departure of the seasonals in the fall was a great loss, because there was little decrease in tourist visitation. [216]

Navajo use of interpretive services again is possible to document only in relation to school groups, but in this category it at least continued high. [217] By participation in the tribal fair Guillet again took his interpretive program to the Navajos. [218]

Research activities were relatively great compared to many other years, despite the limitations locally. A part of these were not Service-connected but were done by workers from other institutions who made some use of Service facilities. In August Minor Van Arsdale and Peter Snyder of the University of Colorado visited the monument while doing a study of Navajo relocation. [219] In October Dr. Mary Shepardson was in the area doing work on Navajo law. [220] Park Service research was primarily of a sort that did not require the work time of area personnel. Sallie Van Valkenburgh spent two periods at the monument—from the middle of June until the beginning of August and from about October 19 into November—doing further field research for her study of Navajo mythology, oral history, and geography. [221]

Archeology also received attention. Archeological clearances were provided by monument personnel as requested for tribal, Bureau, and other construction projects, often by non-archeologists, however. [222] Nichols, the new archeologist, was very interested in research and devoted considerable contributed time to field surveys besides cooperating with other archeologists interested in problems at Canyon de Chelly. [223]

Four publications during the year were contributions to the interpretive program. Guillet did an article for the National Parks Magazine entitled "Nature and Man in Canyon de Chelly," which appeared in the July 1965 issue. The October issue of Arizona Highways featured the canyon and stimulated fall visitation. [224] Another was a tour guide, Land of the Navajo, by Bob Bradshaw, which gave special emphasis to Canyon de Chelly and Monument Valley. [225] A booklet, Canyon de Chelly National Monument, by Charles Suplee and Douglas and Barbara Anderson of Ganado, was published in March and became an important sales item at the monument. [226]

With increased visitation came greater use of the concessioner's facilities, which were not equipped for this volume of business. By the end of the summer Guillet had to report that

Complaints regarding the concessioner have begun to come in, two written and several verbal, all necessitating considerable time and effort to handle.

Unless attitudes change it is becoming apparent that this concessioner is not geared to handle the continuing increased visitor load. Despite our best and strongest efforts we are not too optimistic as regards curtailment of similar complaints. [227]

The concessioner was given permission to close his cafe from November 1 to May 1. Due to the high volume of business, it was suggested that his rates might be reduced when next reviewed. [228]

The precise month that a special use permit was first issued to a Navajo for renting horses does not seem to be noted in the documents the authors have searched. The earliest record found dates from March 1965. [229] A second permit was issued in April for horse rental at Tsaile. [230] Both required tribal approval, but did not preclude horse rental by any other Navajo who might wish to engage in this business. [231]

Relations at the tribal level seemed to show some improvement early in the year. Agreements with the Navajo Tribal Utility Authority on natural gas were made with little difficulty. [232] Guillet was even asked to help organize a tribal conference on recreation and tourism and served as a judge in the annual Miss Navajo competition. [233] Tribal officials also participated in Park Service projects. A special evening program at the monument for a visiting group of trainees from the Albright Training Center in September featured not only tribal rangers, but other tribal employees and Bureau personnel as well. [234] In December the program was repeated. [235] Tribal personnel were assigned to work as trainees in maintenance at the monument in November. [236] Little of this activity had much effect on the council or higher administrative levels at Window Rock, but Guillet's patient work was to have a significant influence within a few months time.

Guillet's last year at Canyon de Chelly ended in August 1966. There were no new major innovations in his program to better Park Service relations with the Navajos; if anything, there was some relaxing in the intensity of these efforts. Why this should be so is not entirely clear, but the answer can perhaps be found in a lessening of the strong support his policies were receiving at higher administrative levels. The most obvious aspect of this is seen in personnel matters.

The work load increased markedly. Visitation through the end of July was 49 percent above that of the previous year. [237] However, there was no increase in personnel, but instead, due to temporary assignments elsewhere, there was frequently a lack of personnel in already established positions. Cook was made superintendent of the new Hubbell Trading Post National Historic Site on January 2, and in April Administrative Assistant Tom Cullison was transferred to Sequoia-Kings National Park. [238] In the latter month Nichols was sent for training to Mather Training Center. Guillet tried to look on the bright side as he summed up the discouraging situation at the end of April:

with a travel increase of over 80% and only two-fifths of the former years['] staff. We have had to utilize the services of laborers, maintenance man, clerk-typist and donated overtime and days off, but we are making it.

The use of the Neighborhood Youth Corps helped, but programs still suffered—especially the one dealing with Navajo affairs. Guillet could not take on any new local activities in this field and had to cancel some that he had scheduled. [239] Efforts beyond the local scene were even temporarily abandoned during May. [240] But some relief was in sight. Nichols returned the same month and a new administrative assistant, William J. Weaver, Jr., reported for duty on May 23. [241] The assistant superintendent position remained unfilled, however, and this was the job that had been especially created in order to give Guillet the extra time his work with the Navajos would require.

Contrary to previous policy, most of the seasonal positions were filled with non-Navajos. [242] Failure to find qualified Navajo applicants for these positions was probably due to the lack of time available for recruiting efforts.

The level of interpretive services remained high, because first priority was given to this essential duty. Interpretive contacts with Navajos, at least with schoolchildren, were numerous, reaching such a point that Guillet commented upon the trend in the "Indian Relations" section of his monthly report for April. [243] An important addition to the interpretive program was the institution of the Tunnel Trail guided tours. [244]

Problems of illegal entries and vandalism grew as visitation increased and as difficulties in scheduling patrols arose because of the demands of other duties, although it was seldom the tourists who were the guilty parties. There were six cases of illegal entries in April, all by local residents who knew of the restrictions on canyon travel, and in one case employees of the local public school were involved. [245] A number of these trespass cases the following month involved penetration of the ruins. [246] Intensified patrol after the seasonal rangers arrived in June and their good luck in being at the right place at the right time served to temporarily curb this activity, but some damage was reported at White House before a Youth Corps trainee could be stationed there. [247] Unauthorized entries continued into the next month. [248] By August, even though 11 parties had been found by rangers and escorted from the canyons, there had been one incident of unknown persons defacing rocks and walls at First Ruin and the first reports of pothunting since Guillet had returned to the canyons. Unidentified visitors had dug under the walls and into the trash mound at Antelope House, using their hands and sticks from nearby trees. [249] The date of this last incident has not been pinpointed precisely and may well have taken place after Guillet's departure, but is a not unexpected culmination of the situation developing as a result of an overworked staff.

The pothunting was obviously of a minor and unpremeditated nature. The increasing illegal entries were a cause for concern to the Navajos as well. Guillet commented on this aspect succinctly:

Our explanation to the Navajo people as to why we do not have enough Rangers to adequately patrol all the features as well as their privacy is not satisfactory to them. With the increase in Visitors there is no doubt that there will be an increase in illegal entries and embarrassing incidents involving the Navajo people who reside within the Monument. If this situation continues we could very well take a backward step in our Navajo Public Relations. [250]

There were some problems in law enforcement involving Navajo violators, particularly with regard to drinking, but all such matters were referred to the Navajo police to be handled by the tribal courts. [251]

Vandalism in the campground and at the overlooks grew in seriousness during the summer. In June the exhibits at the overlooks had to be removed, and loitering at the campground by local young people was noted as a problem. [252] By July the matter was viewed with real concern:

a night patrol has become necessary due to an outbreak of vandalism and disturbances by local young people. There were 14 nights during the month when acts of vandalism and disturbances occurred. Traffic control signs were destroyed, trash recepticles [sic] thrown over the cliffs, eggs thrown at Government residences and vehicles. Motor scooters in the campgrounds during the late evening and at night operated by local youths necessitated closing the campgrounds to all persons not camping after 9:00 p.m. All local youths have been informed that the campgrounds are restricted to camping and picnicing [sic] only.

All of the incidents mentioned were caused by non-Indian teenage children whose parents are either teachers or BIA employees.

The lack of a United States Commissioner or court makes it almost impossible to arrest these persons for minor violations. The Navajo Police have detailed a unit to our area to assist in law enforcement, however, they are restricted in their jurisdiction over non-Indians. [253]

Enforcement of a curfew and additional night patrol work by rangers and tribal police managed to alleviate the situation somewhat in August. [254]

Cooperation with the Navajo police extended to allowing the local police to use the visitor center for a 2-day meeting when they were unable to locate any other building in Chinle large enough for the affair. [255]

The contractor building the bridge kept the del Muerto crossing in good condition most of the time and the need to rescue vehicles there diminished. April, usually a bad month at the crossing because of runoff from the mountains, passed without having to close the area, "for the first time in history," according to Guillet. [256] By the end of June the bridge was reported 100 percent complete. [257] Guillet now had something concrete that he could mention as a Park Service contribution serving the entire community.

Lesser projects that were intended to aid the canyon residents included an insect spraying program. Preparations were begun as early as March at the first signs that insect damage might be expected. [258] It was necessary to work out cooperative plans with the Bureau, however, and so spraying did not begin until after May 12, when grasshopper damage to Navajo crops was already extensive. [259] Most crops were lost and even some peach trees suffered. The erosion control plantings were saved, but not without some loss. [260]

Guillet's greatest contribution was not the bridge nor the various types of emergency aid given canyon residents, nor even the filling of more positions with Navajos, although all of these contributed to his success. He was able to create a mutual feeling of good will that was felt even at the tribal level in the last months of his tenure at the monument. On behalf of the Park Service he had long been involved in negotiations with the tribe concerning planned recreational development at Lake Powell. This story does not directly concern Canyon de Chelly, and so has not been covered here. Attempts to resolve conflicting interests in the Lake Powell area had, however, met a snag when a white director of the Navajo Tribal Parks and Recreation Department, Frank Carson, tried to arouse general tribal opposition to the National Park Service in the highly charged political atmosphere at Window Rock, apparently to advance his own interests politically. Carson failed to get the full support of even his own department, however, and his failure was perhaps most dramatically evidenced by the appearance of the tribal chairman as a speaker at the dedication of the new visitor center at Navajo National Monument. [261] Carson tried to arouse a new movement on the part of the tribe to take over Canyon de Chelly. Even after Guillet's transfer, the good relations that he had developed were a legacy to John Cook, who replaced him, and were to prevent the monument from becoming a political football. Cook's first monthly report as superintendent of Canyon de Chelly paid well-earned tribute to Guillet's work:

The Guillet's [sic] departure caused considerable concern with the local Navajo people as they felt the National Park Service would revert to regular assignment procedured [sic] in staffing Canyon de Chelly resulting in someone not compatable [sic] with its uniqueness. The assignment of John Cook as Acting Superintendent has helped reduce these concerns considerable [sic].

Through the continued efforts of the area staff plus the aforementioned continuity of administration local or "grass roots" relations remain excellent.

.   .   .    .   .

Dr. Handlin mentions a "cry" over Canyon de Chelly for its return to the Navajo Tribe. Such a move would meet resistance on the local level here right now. If we loose [sic] our position of trust, reestablished through Mr. Guillet's activities, the move might fare differently overnight. In any event any "cry" in this regard is currently a one man affair. . . .

Meredith Guillet's success as superintendent at Canyon de Chelly can perhaps best be attested to by noting that the only serious public relations problems at Canyon de Chelly when he left were not with Navajos but with non-Indians.