On Friday July 16, 1965, Rocky Mountain National Park celebrated
its fiftieth anniversary with the dedication of the Alpine Visitor Center
at Fall River Pass, the first Mission 66 visitor center constructed in
the park. [1] The location of the building was
more impressive than its architecture. Visitors climbed Trail Ridge Road,
the country's highest continuous highway, and were suddenly confronted
with a modern visitor center in the forbidding tundra landscape 11,796
feet above sea level. Built of stone and concrete, with a shingled gabled
roof and log beams, the simple building featured a glassed-in viewing
area overlooking Chapin Creek and the Mummy Range. After the grand opening
celebration, participants traveled back down the road and gathered at
Beaver Meadows for an afternoon ground-breaking ceremony. The site was
a meadow just up the hill from the utility area along the new road to
the Beaver Meadows entrance station. George B. Hartzog, Jr., director
of the National Park Service, local dignitaries, and Charles Gordon Lee
of Taliesin Associated Architects witnessed Colorado Congressman Wayne
Aspinall dig a few shovelfuls of dirt in honor of the future Administration
Building. [2] Although Mission 66 officially
concluded the next year, the development campaign it inspired continued
until the end of the decade at Rocky Mountain with the construction of
the Administration Building, commonly known as the Headquarters (1965-1967)
at Beaver Meadows and the West Side Administration Building (1967-1968,
later Kawuneeche Visitor Center) near Grand Lake. Together, these visitor
centers represent the culmination of a decade of planning and designing
modern visitor facilities. As one of the final buildings by a private
firm, the Headquarters demonstrates the Park Service's continued eagerness
to experiment with modern architecture in the parks and to engage in risky
collaboration with well-known modernist designers. The Park Service commissioned
Taliesin Associated Architects, Ltd., to design the Headquarters at Beaver
Meadows, knowing that these devoted followers of Frank Lloyd Wright could
only design an exceptional building.
Rocky Mountain drafted its Mission 66 planning prospectus in 1956 amid
the excitement of a 320-acre park boundary extension and news of a new
eastern approach road. [3] President Eisenhower
authorized the addition to the eastern park boundary in June. The two-and-a-third
mile approach road, a project first conceived in 1932, connected State
Highway 262 with Trail Ridge Road, traversing an area known as Beaver
Meadows. According to this plan, the new visitor center would be located
on undeveloped land in Lone Pine Meadow just below the turnoff for Moraine
Park. Park Service designers envisioned a "principal visitor center"
adjacent the new road with facilities for both visitors and staff. The
building was to house interpretive exhibits, an enclosed, glassed-in
observation porch, and the information/orientation services currently
handled at the entrance station. Indoor and outdoor auditoriums would
supplement the museum interpretation. The cost of the new visitor center
was estimated at $200,000. [4] This initial
Mission 66 development proposal also included provisions for the expansion
of a one-room facility at Fall River Pass jointly owned by a concessioner
and the park. Thousands of people stopped in this area every day, but
the building could only accommodate thirty at most. A new facility would
provide concessions and interpretation relevant to the alpine setting.
On the west side, similar services would be offered at "Grand Lake Visitor
Center." Trailers equipped with information and exhibits were stationed
at Rainbow Curve on Trail Ridge Road and Lake Granby Overlook off Highway
34 to determine the value of permanent visitor facilities in these areas.
[5]
By 1958, planners were considering several alternatives for park development,
all of which anticipated major changes in roads and traffic patterns
around the eastern entrance. One possibility was a visitor center at
Deer Ridge near the convergence of Highways 34 and 36. Since the Beaver
Meadows entrance and the Fall River entrance guarded these primary access
roads into the park, a visitor center between the two would serve the
greatest number of visitors. However, because the chosen site included
several inholdings, such as the Schubert family's popular Deer Ridge
Chalet, acquisition of the property before the conclusion of Mission
66 was doubtful. A description of the proposed building mentioned standard
visitor center components: a lobby, exhibit space, and audio-visual
room. Significant architectural features included an elevated penthouse
and viewing terraces, both of which related to the interpretation of
glacial geology. In this scenario, the park headquarters building was
to be located near the utility area, south of High Drive, and devoted
exclusively to park administration. In the interim before the Deer Ridge
Visitor Center was completed, visitor services could be offered from
a nearby auditorium building. Although this plan was not adopted, efforts
to acquire the desired property were eventually successful. [6]
A more expedient alternative, considering the land ownership situation,
was the construction of a visitor center building at Lone Pine, the
site suggested two years earlier. This proposal described a 10,200-square-foot
building for visitor facilities, which included an optional auditorium
and naturalist's operating headquarters and workshop. A headquarters
for administrative functions was planned about a mile down the road.
At this time, planners imagined the administration building in conjunction
with the utility area and distinct from anything having to do with visitors
or interpretation. This "master plan development outline" was reviewed
by Lyle Bennett, WODC architect, and recommended by Chief of Design
and Construction Thomas Vint in 1958. During the master planning process,
the park was also considering a visitor center at the Grand Lake entrance.
In April 1958, Cecil Doty submitted a prototypical Mission 66 design
for what would later become known as both the West Side and Kawuneeche
Visitor Center. The most prominent feature of the proposed wood frame
building was a flagstone porch; the restrooms on the left side of the
building extended to the edge of the porch, while an administration
wing on the right was flush to the lobby entrance. Porch flagstones
continued inside the lobby. Directly behind the lobby was an audio-visual
room and to the left, an exhibit room. The visitor center constructed
nearly ten years later would only resemble Doty's drawing in its adherence
to programmatic requirements. [7]
The new eastern approach road opened in 1959 but the Thompson River
entrance remained in use until 1960, when the Bear Lake cut-off was
completed and the old entrance closed. Park planners predicted that
the new entrance would result in increased use of the Moraine Museum,
a former lodge constructed in the early 1920s. The museum's centralized
site was viewed as more important than the rustic building, which could
"be razed and replaced by a modern, fireproof structure with space-heating
for all-year operation if required." In its place, the park envisioned
a two-room exhibit facility, an overlook porch equipped with audio-visual
equipment, a lobby and information desk, restrooms, and a few small
offices. Although the Moraine Museum was spared, as Mission 66 planning
progressed, the Park Service increased efforts to acquire inholdings,
remove old buildings, and restore the natural landscape as much as possible.
Between 1958 and 1962, the park purchased Fern Lake, Bear Lake, and
Spragues Lodges; two private "guest ranches," the Fall River Lodge in
Horseshoe Park and the Brinwood Hotel in Moraine Park; and the Stead
Ranch at Moraine Park, site of the Deer Ridge Chalet. [8]
The buildings were demolished in the name of wilderness conservation,
but many Estes Park residents and seasonal visitors lamented the loss
of favorite vacation resorts. To complicate matters, the park's environmental
preservation efforts were carried out just a few years after a controversial
new ski facility opened at Hidden Valley. In light of the effort to
remove private development and thereby enhance the natural surroundings,
the Park Service ski concession was questioned by both locals and environmentalists.
While other parks upgraded concessioner facilities inside their boundaries,
Rocky Mountain was able to take advantage of its proximity to Estes
Park for visitor accommodations and most services. This close relationship
between the park and the town dated back to the park's founding in 1915,
when a rented downtown building became the first headquarters. In 1921,
the Estes Park Women's Club resolved to loan a parcel of land in town
to the park, and once an act of Congress passed the bill, a superintendent's
office was constructed on the city lot about three miles from the park
boundary. [9] During the Mission 66 development
and planning process, maintaining good relations with the town was of
considerable importance. Superintendent Granville Liles understood that
the design of the new visitor center should reflect the close ties between
the park and the community of Estes Park.
During the first four years of Mission 66, Rocky Mountain spent over
three million dollars on improvements, but had seemingly little to show
for it; a large portion of the budget went towards "invisible" repairs,
such as updating sewage and water systems. The summer of 1960 brought
the first Mission 66 structure, the Beaver Meadows Entrance Station,
as well as enlarged campgrounds at Endovalley and Glacier Basin, complete
with "lecture amphitheaters." [10] Road repairs,
turn-outs, and additional roads were under construction. But the featured
visitor centers existed only on paper, as Park Service architects and
planners continued to discuss visitor circulation, building location,
and other issues crucial to the park's preservation and use.
The earliest extant graphic representation of the proposed east side
"Administration and Visitor Orientation Building" is a November 1962
site plan by the Midwest Regional Office. [11]
The drawing shows a building shaped like an angular polywog, its head
to the west and crooked tail behind. Visitor parking is located on the
south side, visitors entered the "head" of the building, and employee
parking is provided in the rear adjacent to a central service yard.
Because the road separates the new building from the utility area, the
scheme did not allow efficient traffic flow. In an effort to remedy
this problem, the office drafted a revised plan with a bridge over the
entrance road linking the visitor center, to the south, with an administration
building on the north side. The next month, a third scheme reunited
the two functions in a U-shaped plan south of the entrance road, the
side adjacent the utility area. The lobby and auditorium were located
at the front and formed the widest section, with narrower central and
eastern administration wings. Parking was dividedvisitors in front
of the building and employees on the east side. During this preliminary
design phase, Cecil Doty drew elevations and plans for his version of
the future administration building. [12]
Although the "pre-preliminary designs" Doty produced in February 1963
hardly resemble the final building, they anticipate several of its main
qualities. The entrance facade of Doty's Administration Building features
a single-story office wing, with a double-height auditorium and lobby
on one end balanced by the south wall of an additional two-story office
wing on the other. Employee parking is on the west side, and from this
vantage point, the building appears to be two stories. Visitor services
are located in the east end of the building, a segregation of visitor
center and administrative functions that foreshadows Taliesin's treatment
of visitor and employee use. On the exterior of his administration building,
Doty imagined "cement block, stucco and precast panels with heavy exposed
aggregate." The office windows were a seemingly continuous strip of
glass with thin metal mullions spaced every four feet, and roofs were
flat. The Doty scheme was dominated by its extensive office wing and
might have seemed equally appropriate in either an industrial or wilderness
park.
The park and WODC were not willing to accept Doty's plans without exploring
additional possibilities for the new building. In April 1963, a Park
Service architect named Roberson produced an "advance study plan for
review and adjustment." This simple line drawing shows the first and
second floors, and, in general outline, resembles the "polywog" plan
of two months earlier. A partition separates the audio-visual auditorium
from a lobby and exhibit space which together form roughly an oval shape.
The administrative offices are arranged on either side of a corridor
that emerges from the rear of the lobby. This 110-foot wing is joined
to a 96-foot wing angled slightly towards the front of the building.
Although the drawing is crude and the plan awkward, the general organization
of spaces and hierarchy of services foreshadow those of the constructed
building. During this time the facility came to be known as the administration
or administration-orientation building (in the Headquarters area), perhaps
to distinguish it from previous schemes involving two separate buildings.
[13]
Park Service personnel were still discussing the building's location
in February 1964. That summer, William Wesley Peters and Edmund Thomas
Casey of Taliesin Associated Architects visited the park to examine
potential sites. [14] According to Casey,
the firm was contacted by Secretary of the Interior Stewart L. Udall
regarding design of a future Rocky Mountain Park headquarters. [15] The basic programmatic requirements were outlined by
Superintendent Liles, and Taliesin was asked for advice regarding the
building site. As resident landscape architect Richard Strait recalls,
the park staff had focused the search for an appropriate visitor center
site on Horseshoe Park or Deer Ridge, the site of the controversial
private lodge and cabins. [16] Both sites
posed circulation problems, however, and the cramped spaces were considered
inadequate. Strait and the park planners preferred a building on the
north side of the road, which would provide better traffic flow. When
Casey arrived, the choice had been narrowed down to two locations, the
one ultimately selected and another about a mile further into the park
on the north side of the road. The latter site was finally rejected
as less conveniently situated in relation to the residential area, and
therefore a potential source of traffic problems. At the lower hillside
site, the architects could envision a better segregation of visitors
and administrative facilities. Although Strait and the park staff were
not eager to build "on the wrong side of the road," they agreed that
this was the best solution considering the many issues involved. In
combination with the building's unusual design, these early planning
studies gave rise to rumors that the two-story south facade, as eventually
built, had been originally designed to face north. In fact, the building
was designed and built specifically for the hillside site it occupies.
[17]
During these early discussions, Casey remembers the superintendent's
eagerness to improve the relationship between the park and the town
of Estes Park. The superintendent hoped that a new headquarters closer
to town might reduce some of the tension caused by the park's policy
toward inholdings. As primary representative of the client, Liles not
only influenced the location of the building, but also the development
of its program. His hope that the auditorium might be used for city
council meetings and other civic events materialized in the form of
a larger theater space that included a cozy fireplace. In September
1964, the Estes Park Trail announced that, after five years of
planning, the park had finally chosen a site for the building "such
that it will serve visitors of the Estes Park area without requiring
them to enter the National Park itself." [18]
Rocky Mountain was one of the few parks that chose to build a Mission
66 visitor center outside its official entrance, enabling visitors to
use the building without passing through a gate or paying a fee.
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