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There are several factors that lead these springs to form spectacular terraces that are always changing. Learn how these hot springs differ from others in the park. Duration: 1 minute 40 seconds
- Credit / Author:
- Written & Presented by Park Ranger Beth Taylor
- Date created:
- 2007-04-27
Though hot springs are the most common type of hydrothermal feature in Yellowstone, those found at Mammoth Hot Springs are vastly different from the deep pools of water throughout the rest of the park. Here, the water flows down a large terraced hillside looking like a gentle cascade.
The springs here are shaped uniquely because the hot water flows through limestone instead of volcanic rhyolite rock. The limestone is from an ancient inland sea that once covered the park. As the hot water and gases travel through cracks and fissures on their way to the surface, dissolved limestone is carried out and deposited as white travertine—or calcium carbonate, like in some antacid tablets.
The water and minerals sculpt intricate patterns and designs and the overall look is that of a staircase. Where the water flows over flat terrain, the terraces form steps holding pools of water with rounded overhanging rims. Where water flows more steeply downhill, it cascades over tiny scallops. In places, bacteria and algae thrive in the hot water and color the springs yellow, orange and brown.
The terraces are growing daily where the water flows over them, depositing minerals as it goes. But due to the complex network of underground channels, the water often changes course. One day the water could be flowing here, and the next day this could be dry and the water could be flowing over there.
New channels form as minerals dissolve and other channels become blocked with mineral deposition. Earthquakes can open or close cracks in the system as well.
Though dry springs eventually turn gray and brittle, dormant springs have been known to reawaken. Surprisingly the overall amount of water doesn’t change all that much, but where it flows out does—sometimes overnight. It’s geology on a fast track and a work in progress. Be prepared to see something different every time you come
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The first protectors of the park were soldiers. Learn more about Fort Yellowstone through this short video. Duration: 2 minutes 0 seconds
- Credit / Author:
- Written & Presented by Park Ranger Beth Taylor
- Date created:
- 2007-04-27
Some national parks preserve the history of old military forts. In Yellowstone the opposite is true. Our military fort once preserved the national park. As the world’s first national park, Yellowstone was established in 1872 over 40 years before the National Park Service was created.
With limited funds and staffing, the park fell victim to vandals, squatters and poachers. In 1886 Congress refused to appropriate any funds to administer the park, so in desperation, the park turned to the army for help. The U.S. Cavalry soon arrived and began to restore order. The cavalry was headquarted at Mammoth Hot Springs. A few soldiers were sent to outposts where they could patrol the rest of the park on horses. In the winter, soldiers patrolled on skis.
After living in temporary buildings for five harsh winters the army realized they might be staying awhile, and so they began to build a permanent post. Many of the wooden clapboard and stone buildings in Mammoth Village are the historic army offices and quarters.
In 1916 the National Park Service was created. Two years later the park service took over management of Yellowstone employing many of the military personnel already stationed in the park. Park rangers modeled much of their early duties after the army personnel who protected Yellowstone for 32 years. Though we no longer sound the canon or rise to reveille, our uniforms still resemble those of the military.
Park administrative headquarters remain in Mammoth and the historic army buildings are still used for offices and staff housing. One of the large stone buildings is now the Albright Visitor Center. Built in 1909, it was originally the bachelor officers’ quarters. You can tour the historic district with a ranger, or on your own, using the self-guiding tour brochure available at the visitor center. Fort Yellowstone is a reminder of the critical role the army played in preserving the first national park during its formative years.
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Mammoth Hot Springs is a great place to visit in winter. You will find access to walking and skiing trails as well as fascinating exhibits along the trail. Duration: 2 minutes 37 seconds
- Credit / Author:
- Presented by Park Ranger Kelli English
- Date created:
- 2007-04-27
In one respect, Mammoth Hot Springs is located at the end of the road. Although you can travel eastward into Lamar Valley, Mammoth is as far south as you can drive your car through Yellowstone in winter. But, some of the best adventures begin where the road ends. Here, you may need to leave the car behind, but there is still plenty of exploring to do.
You can start by walking the boardwalks. These raised sidewalks weave through the hot springs terraces into a world mixed with hot water and ice. Extreme microclimates existing side by side seem to be the norm in Yellowstone. Please use caution on the trails; they are often snow-covered and slippery. Mammoth Hot Springs is one of the most dynamic places in the park. The active sections of the overall terrace system are always changing. Areas that are cold and snow-covered today could be hot and active tomorrow.
At places like Canary Spring, the forest and the thermal activity seem to be at constant battle. The hot water floods and kills the trees in one section, while plant life slowly reclaims dormant areas. As a whole, the entire Mammoth Hot Springs Terrace system discharges about 500 gallons of hot water per minute. That water deposits about 2 tons of calcium carbonate or travertine each day. There are some great views to be had from the top of the terraces. Looking past Historic Fort
Yellowstone, the snow capped mountains of Montana can be seen in the distance. If you would like to venture a little farther into the wilderness, you can ski or snowshoe the Upper Terrace Loop Trail. This is a nice mile and a half long trail. You can also connect to longer more strenuous routes from here.
Check conditions at the Albright Visitor Center before you take off. Let someone know where you are going and when you expect to be back. The extreme weather in Yellowstone changes fast. Be prepared. Whether you know Mammoth well or it’s your first time seeing these travertine terraces, you may discover something unique while you’re here. I hope you find that this is not the end of the road, but the beginning of the trail.
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Cars and bicycles have replaced stagecoaches on this little used side road. Duration: 2 minutes 21 seconds
- Credit / Author:
- Written & Presented by Park Ranger George Heinz
- Date created:
- 2007-04-27
It was the unique geology of the Yellowstone region that enticed our ancestors to protect this special place. But today, as the world’s first national park, the history of humans in Yellowstone is as fascinating as the park’s natural wonders are rare. Much of the early history is tied to road building and transportation.
One of the first roads in the park is a five mile section that today is called the Old Gardiner Road. Located just behind the Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel, this one-way dirt road traverses open sagebrush hills before ending outside Gardiner, Montana.
Originally, the Old Gardiner Road was used by stagecoaches carrying guests to and from the new park. In 1883 the Northern Pacific Railroad reached Cinnabar, Montana which stood several miles north of present day Gardiner. The rail was extended to Gardiner in 1902.
After exiting the trains, passengers would meet their yellow Tally-ho coaches, which were pulled by 6 horses, for the ride to Mammoth Hot Springs. Tally-ho coaches were used because of an elevation gain of over 1000 feet between the two spots. Passengers would tour the park in smaller stages pulled by 4 horses.
One of the most famous people to use this section of Yellowstone was President Chester A. Arthur. He was the first U. S. President to visit Yellowstone. While the exact spot is not known, it is believed that in 1883, on his last night in the park, he camped ½ mile north of Mammoth Hot Springs.
Today, the Old Gardiner Road is a good place for bicyclist to escape the traffic. Bicycles are allowed to travel both ways on this road. The terrain is better for mountain bikes than for road bikes. Off road travel on bikes as well as cars is prohibited. If you are traveling by car, watch for oncoming bicycles.
While the Old Gardiner Road may not be much older than the road through the Gardner River Canyon that we use today, it is steeped in history. If you listen close enough, you can almost hear the Tally-ho drivers yell giddy-up as they encourage their horses up the dusty slopes
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