Winter Wonderlands

National Parks Are Cool

It's winter and you see icicles shining against foliage like midnight stars, snow-dusted trees standing regal and tall, skiing slopes that are as inviting as a down pillow. In the distance steam rises from frozen thermal lakes like a glass of freshly brewed iced tea. Snow-capped mountains ascend to the clouds, and icy ocean waves crash against glacier-gouged cliffs with a rhythmic thud.

You take a deep breath and savor the serene beauty of nature; the pine fragrant air, the glistening horizon. Then you nudge yourself, happy that you are visiting a winter wonderland.

Welcome to a national park. What a cool destination! There is so much to see and do here during the winter.

Take for example Mount Rainier National Park, a grand landscape of forests, glaciers, streams and valleys dominated by a hulking 14,410 foot mountain-a slumbering volcano -that on a clear day you can see all the way from Seattle, Washington, some 95 miles away. An offspring of fire and ice, Mount Rainier was born a half-million years ago on a base of lava spewed out by previous volcanoes. Today the park is a major icon of the northwest, an easy drive from Seattle, Tacoma, and Portland, Oregon.

"Mount Rainier is visible from almost every house on the Puget Sound," said park superintendent, Jonathan B. Jarvis. "Because of this prominence, the park is also prominent in the consciousness of the people. People love this mountain. They have come here for generations, and now bring their kids here. That is an important tool for us in terms of the future of the park.

Buffeted by the Pacific Ocean, the uncanny mountain generates its own moisture-laden weather system, and gets record setting quantities of snow each year. In fact, the huge precipitation shapes everything in the park, from the profuse stands of ancient cedars, Douglas fir and western hemlocks forest, to the 25 major glaciers that cap the mountain.

Since the winter temperature at Mount Rainier can match arctic tundra, only the road leading from the Nisqually Entrance, just beyond the town of Ashford, Washington, on the southwestern edge of the park, is open during the winter.

Once inside the park, follow the road to the Longmire Museum, which remains open daily year-round. Or, 'you can take the same road northeast to the Jackson Memorial Visitor Center at Paradise, which during the winter is open only on weekends and holidays.

Check in at the visitor center to sign up with a park ranger for an exciting introduction to the art of snowshoeing. You will discover how plants and animals adapt to the park's heavy-duty snowfall, which has been known to exceed 1,000 inches a year! Snowshoes are provided free. A $1.00 donation is appreciated to defray expenses, thank you.

Consult with a ranger to find out the best routes for cross-country skiing or snowboarding. A limited number of unplowed roads are designated for snowmobiles. A park ranger can point you in the right direction. There is also a designated snowplay area at Paradise.

Car camping is permitted year-round at Sunshine Point campground, which is near the Nisqually Entrance. When the roads aren't washed out, car camping is also permitted year-round in Ipsut Creek, which is located in the northwest edge of the park near the Carbon River Entrance. To check current road conditions, call: (360) 569-2211, ext. 3314.

A permit is required for snow camping, backpacking and mountain climbing, plus common sense and safety concerns. Before embarking on these pursuits, register with a park ranger and get information on avalanches, proper gear and clothing, and on hazardous weather conditions.

Rocks of Ages

Sea and mountain meet at the Acadia National Park and Mount Desert Island in Maine and if you listen you can hear the metronomic sounds of the ocean waves crashing against the ancient rocks and granite cliffs. There they go: swish, swoosh, whistle, sizzle, thumb, bang, howl, roar. Makes you want to hum a hymn, doesn't it?

Now revel in the park's surreal beauty: turbulent waves cascading over the rock-bound coast, misty fog shrouding winter-stripped leafless hardwood forest, frozen ponds glistening like glass, birds flitting about, a white-tailed deer scooting through the whitened forest, cross-country skiers moving gracefully over miles and miles of carriage roads traversed by stately hand-cut granite bridges, each a virtual work of art.

Winters are quiet at Acadia National Park, and here you can enjoy a reflective visit in a setting that was carved out by glaciers thousands of years ago. You can also marvel at the mysterious ways of nature.

Most of Acadia is located on Mount Desert Island, which is 18 miles long and 14 miles wide, cut from granite with steep cliffs dropping to the ocean off the coast of Maine. This topography was gouged some 11,000 years ago when glaciers floated south from Canada and cut across an east-west ridge of granite, leaving mountains separated by valleys. Big blocks of ice left behind formed lakes and ponds. The sea level rose, flooded valleys, and created a fjord-a glacier-carved inlet flooded by sea water. The results today: a mountainous island and a shoreline that juts from the Atlantic Ocean lined with rocks and boulders.

Archeological evidence indicates that American Indians traveled the waters of Acadia some 6,000 years ago. In 1604, a Frenchman, Samuel de Champlain, explored the coast and named the island LIsle des Monts Deserts, roughly translated as "the island of barren mountains.' Perhaps he couldn't see the forested mountain slopes from his ship.

Scenic drives are visually rewarding at Acadia. Although many roads are closed during the winter, portions of Park Loop Road, the Jordan Pond Area, Sargent Drive and Schoodic Peninsula are open. For specific routes, visit the parks Headquarters and Information Center, which is located 3 miles west of Bar Harbor on Route 233. The office is open daily from 8 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Acadia doesn't boast a heavy snowfall, but when it does snow, the park is a physical fitness buff's delight. Cross-country skiing, snowshoeing, ices skating, and riding in snowmobiles are popular pastimes. Bird watchers may spot a peregrine falcon. The hearty can dress warmly and go ice fishing throughout the winter. A license is required and can be obtained at the Bar Harbor Town Office.

Winter camping is permitted only at Blackwoods Campground, which is located on Route 3, approximately 5.5 miles south of Bar Harbor. Before pitching your tent, register first at the campground entrance station. Overnight backpacking is not allowed.

Way Up There!

It's hard to find a setting more diverse than Rocky Mountain National Park. Deep valleys with twisting rivers contrast towering peaks, some rising more than 12,000 feet. Colorful summer wildflowers are legendary, and the winter snow is bountiful. Magnificent forest stands perfume the air with the aroma of pine, juniper, Douglas fir and spruce. Wind-sculpted trees seem to crawl along the ground bordering expansive treeless tundra, which covers one-third of the park. The tundra is situated above tree line, and here summers are short and winters are cold and windy.

This startlingly beautiful landscape, located 2 hours by car from Denver, Colorado, was shaped eons ago by the forces of glaciers and erosion, which carved out deep canyons, ragged boulders and towering summits; formed lakes and streams, and created an alpine tundra that resembles conditions found in the Canadian or Alaskan Arctic.

Winter comes early to this park, and so do visitors from around the world. Recreational activities are non-stop. Two visitor centers remain open during the winter: The Beaver Meadows Visitor Center at park headquarters in Estes Park on the East Side of the park, is open daily from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m., and the Kawuneeche Visitor Center in Grand Lake on the westside of the park, is open daily from 8 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Both centers are closed on Christmas Day.

Here you can enjoy cross-country skiing, snowmobiling, snowshoe ecology walks, stories by the fireside and other evening programs.

Drive-up camping is possible year-round in Moraine Park, Longs Peak, and Timber Creek campgrounds. No reservations are required during the off-season. You'll need a permit- available at the visitor centers-for backcountry camping.

Several hiking trails on the East Side of Rocky Mountain remain relatively free of snow during the winter and on these paths you can savor the montane countryside without the encumbrances of snowshoes or skis.

Only experienced, well-equipped climbers should scale the mountains here during the winter. A permit- available at the visitor centers-is required to pitch a bivouac or to remain overnight in the backcountry. Wildlife viewing is a premiere attraction at Rocky Mountain. You can also go on a full moon walk, which the park will offer on Friday, February 18; and Sunday, March 19 in 2000. Call (970) 586-1206 for departure time, which varies during the year.

Somebody Is On My Dune

Native American legend has it that long, long ago a mother bear and her two cubs were driven into Lake Michigan by a raging fire. Mama Bear reached shore and climbed to a high bluff to wait for her cubs. They drowned. The Great Spirit Manitou created two islands to mark the spot where the cubs disappeared, and then created a solitary sand dune to mark the spot where the faithful mother bear kept watch.

Welcome to Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore, a mythical land of hilly terrain, dense forest, crystal clear inland lakes, a sweeping shoreline, rugged, towering bluffs, and massive sandy hills, including Mama Bears dune, which soars to more than 80 feet. Offshore sits the legendary Manitou Islands, two quiet, secluded spots that from mid-May to October can be reached by a quick ferry ride.

This majestic landscape is located on Lake Michigan in Empire, Michigan, the state's western edge, reached by U.S. Highway 31, 22, and from Grand Rapids on U.S. Highway 131.

The shore was formed millions of years ago when glaciers spread southward from Canada and carved out the wide, deep basins of the Great Lakes. The glaciers also dumped huge piles of sand and rock debris, which over the years evolved into a dune: a pile of sand deposited by the wind. One hill, known as the Dune Climb, is the shore's highest sand peak at 130 feet.

Start your visit at the park's Visitor Center/Headquarters, which is located off Highway M-72 on the east side of Empire. The center is open daily during the winter-except holidays-from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m., offering an array of services.

The snowfall here is abundant. The truly physically fit can cross-country ski for days. Others will enjoy park ranger-led snowshoe hikes and walks that take in the sweeping lake vista and the beautiful woodland.

Hunting for deer, rabbit, squirrel, ruffled grouse and waterfowl is allowed in season under state regulations. Bird watching is also popular.

Camping is year-round, and it varies from wilderness backpacking, to full-amenities campgrounds. A permit is required; apply at the visitor center and at park ranger stations. For additional camp information and a limited number of reservations, call (800) 365-2267. A fee is charged at some sites.

North to Alaska

Baby, it's cold outside. We know. That's the reason why you came to this national park in the first place. Here in Alaska you can cross-country ski, snowshoe, dog sled, camp out or ice fish to your heart's delight, in a sparkling, panoramic setting. The scenery will certainly lure you: whitewashed gorges, glacial valleys, ice-blue frozen lakes and rivers, snow-crested mountains, and abundant trees glistening with frost. Cool like ice.

Furthermore, the crowds are thinner this time of year-but don't tell anybody-and the frozen winter vista opens up many areas in the parks that are difficult to travel over during the summer when the snow melts and the ground is wet. Now you can Denali National Park enjoy so much more of our 49th state's rugged, wild beauty.

Think of the fun, but don't forget the challenges: Services are limited in many communities near the parks during the winter, so make sure that you come self-contained with appropriate equipment and clothing for cold weather and short days. Park officials said that visitors should check with lodge or air taxi operators about local road and weather conditions before visiting a park. A call or visit to park headquarters or visitor center is also recommended.

Here are popular destinations, with park telephone numbers:

Denali National Park and Preserve, Denali Park, Alaska, (907) 683-2294. Great for snow activities. Park also has the Riley Creek campground, which is open all winter. Pit toilets and picnic tables are provided and water is available at the park headquarters building. No fee is charged, but a permit- available at park headquarters-is required for overnight backcountry camping.

Gates of the Arctic National Park and Preserve. Popular activities are dog sledding, cross-country skiing and camping. Park headquarters, Fairbanks, Alaska, (907) 456-0281. Kenal Fjords National Park, Seward, Alaska, (907) 224-3175. The Exit Glacier area is a popular winter destination. The visitor center is open on weekdays. Campground and rental cabins are also available.

Klondike Gold Rush National Historical Park, Skagway, Alaska, (907) 983-2921. The visitor center provides exhibits and an orientation film during the winter. Lodging and other services are available in the community of Skagway. In late winter and spring, the park frequently hosts Elderhostel groups.

Sitka National Historical Park, Sitka, Alaska, (907) 747-6281. The visitor center and trails are open throughout the winter.

Wrangdll-St. Elias National Park and Preserve, Copper Center, Alaska, (907) 822-5234. Real cold here. Plentiful opportunity for experienced winter enthusiasts. Information available at park headquarters.

Yukon-Charley Rivers National Preserve. Winter activities abound. Each February the international Yukon Quest Sled Dog Race between Fairbanks and Whitehorse comes through the preserve. Park headquarters, Fairbanks, Alaska, (907) 547-2233.