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Composting Many options are currently available for small scale/residential composting. There are several different methods of composting. The first is the simple compost pile, which can become more elaborate depending on which type of container you choose to use. The compost pile or heap relies on natural aerobic (oxygen breathing) bacteria and microorganisms to break down organic material. A well-balanced compost heap will not smell unpleasant, and the entire composting process can take anywhere from a few months up to a year or more, depending on certain factors. Finished compost can be used in the garden, as mulch, fertilizer, or as food for houseplants or seed-starters. The most important issues to consider in heap composting are moisture levels, types of materials, air flow and temperature. A compost heap should be as damp as a well-wrung sponge. If it is too wet, air cannot flow into the center of the pile, which could lead to anaerobic (non-oxygen) decomposition, which leads to unpleasant odors (which often attract pests). A compost pile that is too dry will decompose very slowly; in some climates, watering the pile may be necessary. For a compost pile to function well, it needs a balanced mix of browns and greens. Browns are dry material, such as straw, shredded newspaper, wood dust, wood chips, dry leaves, etc. Greens consist of fresher materials, which are higher in nitrogen, including salad greens, vegetable waste, grass clippings, peels and other materials generally higher in water content. Compost heaps also need to be turned. Using a rake or pitchfork to turn the pile will speed up the composting process, as it allows even distribution of air throughout the heap. Turning will also help mix in new materials, and distribute moisture more evenly. Compost heaps are simply a pile of vegetative wastes on the ground. Smaller heaps (2’x2’) will tend to have lower temperatures. A heap with a higher center (5’-6’) will decompose faster and maintain its heat better. However, in a residential setting, it is advisable to use some kind of container (see the list at the end of this introduction) to keep your heap from getting out of hand. Another approach to composting is called "vermiculture", which involves the use of worms (usually red worms) in the decomposing process. To start a "worm bin", a vented box of appropriate volume is needed, as well as bedding and food for the worms. The worms eat vegetable scraps, paper, peelings, bread, and other household wastes. Several books and websites deal with starting your own "worm bin". Check out the gardening/yard care section at any bookstore. Mary Appelhof’s book Worms Eat My Garbage is a also good place to start. For information contact: Flowerfield Enterprises
Certain items are inappropriate to compost. Meat, dairy products, bones and oily products (butter, peanut butter, etc.) will attract pests and are difficult to break down, because fatty substances do not allow air to penetrate. Treated lumber (and sawdust from such lumber) could add poisonous chemicals and metals to your compost. Pet and human wastes should not be composted due to the risk of disease. Diseased plants and hardy weed species should also stay out of your compost piles, as diseases or seeds may survive the composting process to infect your garden next season. Information for this brief introduction to composting was taken from several websites. Further info is available at:
Ready for Purchase Composters: Please note: the products on this list are only suggestions. The National Park Service has not tested and does not endorse any of these products. Composting containers are available in many styles from different manufacturers.
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