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In 1935 George Freeman Pollock, proprietor of Skyland Resort, wrote an
article for the Potomac Appalachian Trail Club Bulletin entitled "Why
Skyland?" proclaiming that his mountain top resort was the primary
reason Congress had chosen the Blue Ridge for a national park. "If
there had been no Skyland," he wrote, "then there would have
been no Shenandoah National Park." While his claims have been proven
to be exaggerated as they ignore the work of Ferdinand Zerkle, the Shenandoah
Valley Inc., and others, most people still recognize Skyland as the premier
mountain retreat in the area. But Skyland was not the only resort on the
Blue Ridge during the 1920s and 1930s, although it was the only one chosen
by park creators to remain after the park's establishment.
On July 20, 1924, Panorama Resort opened its doors to guests. Managed
by J. Allen Williams of Luray, the resort was located seven miles east
of Luray. Straddling Page and Rappahannock counties, the property occupied
approximately 350 acres including Mary's Rock. The site had been purchased
in 1923 by Williams, his brother-in-law Paul Taylor of Washington, D.C.,
and R. L. Cheatham and A.M. Priest of Washington, Virginia. By 1928 the
resort included a Tea Room, summer hotel, five cottages, dining room,
bath house, miniature golf course, tennis court, and various other service
buildings. The bungalow-style hotel, with fourteen guestrooms and four
baths, was the largest building. Like many of the structures at Skyland,
the hotel had been built using rustic verandas affording guests "opportunities
for entrancing and unrestricted view[s] of undulating mountains and valleys
that stretch to all horizons." The cottages, also of bungalow type,
were built in a semi-circle and were completely furnished ranging in size
from two bedrooms, living room, and bath to six bedrooms, living room,
and two baths. The Tea Room had accommodations for over-night guests,
but also served regular meals and a la carte service. All together, the
resort provided accommodations for 75 guests and dining facilities for
over 200.
Not only did Panorama provide accommodations for guests, but the resort
also offered a wide variety of attractions including miniature golf, horseback
riding, and several caged bears. The bears, however, proved to be a troublesome
source of entertainment for the resort's managers. In 1935 John Nichols,
a guest, brought a suit against Panorama to recover damages for personal
injuries sustained when he was attacked by a bear kept at the resort.
According to Nichols, the resort encouraged their guests and the general
public to feed soft drinks, ice cream, etc. to the bears. While Nichols
was standing near the bears' enclosure preparing to feed them, "one
of the bears sprung on the fence, pushed his paw through the wire enclosure
and tore [Nichols's] face,
G. Freeman Pollock, "Why Skyland," in Potomac
Appalachian Trail Club Bulletin, October 1935.
Black Rock Springs Hotel was another mountain resort situated along the
Blue Ridge within current park boundaries. Black Rock Hotel, however,
burned in 1909. Darwin Lambert, The Undying Past of Shenandoah National
Park (Roberts Rinehart, Inc. Publishers, 1989), pp. 190-191.
Page News & Courier, 8 June 1924 and 1 July 1932. State Commission
on Conservation and Development Records. SNP Archives; During the same
period in which Williams et al developed Panorama, Skyland was undergoing
a similar boom. Pollock notes that around 1923 he added waterworks, sewers,
and a large dining hall. Pollock, "Why Skyland?"
painfully and seriously injuring him." Although Panorama's owners
claimed that Nichols had been intoxicated and was in fact teasing the
bear, the court ultimately found in favor of Nichols and awarded him $200
in damages. Despite this incident, it appears that the bears remained
at Panorama until they were released by members of the Civilian Conservation
Corps later in the 1930s.
Regardless of the problem with the bears, Panorama seems to have been
a thriving summer retreat with guests traveling from as far as New York
to spend their summers. So why were the hotel and cottages not maintained
for park visitors? Although park developers generally always agreed that
Skyland would remain a visitor facility after the park's establishment,
they did not always see eye-to-eye regarding the fate of Panorama. As
early as 1926 Ferdinand Zerkle, chairman of Shenandoah National Park Association,
Inc., insinuated to his close friend William Carson, chairman of the Virginia
State Commission on Conservation and Development (SCCD), that both Skyland
and Panorama would be exempt from purchase by the state. Zerkle informed
Carson that both of these resorts should be "the subject of some
special lease or contract by the National Park Service," thereby
relieving the state commission of the financial burden required to purchase
the properties. Statements such as these may have fueled Pollock and Williams's
belief that they could continue to operate their respective resorts following
park establishment.
Despite Zerkle's inclination that the properties would not become part
of the new park, following the 1927 Condemnation Act commissioners from
the SCCD performed mandatory property surveys to determine all property
values within the proposed park boundaries. Dissatisfied with the appraised
value of $16,987 for the entire property and improvements, in September
1932 Williams, Cheatham, and Priest filed exception for the valuation
in the Page County Circuit Court claiming the value "grossly inadequate."
The exception was the first formally filed against such appraisals in
Page County, and perhaps the political move that cost the owners their
opportunity to maintain the resort.
By mid-1932 it was clear that Arno Cammerer, Director of the National
Park Service, would not allow Williams and associates to continue operating
Panorama once the park had been established. While the condition of Panorama's
buildings accounted for part of Cammerer's reasoning, his motive in closing
the resort was much more political. Cammerer bluntly stated that Panorama
was "not to be continued for two reasons: first because it is right
on the highway in a commanding position that should be
Court records indicate that Panorama purchased the bears
around 1933 when they were small cubs. The resort testified that the cubs
had been raised by them, were tame, and had never shown any disposition
to attack any one. Panorama Resort vs. John Nichols, Supreme Court of
Virginia, 165 VA. 289, 182 S.E. 235, 14 November 1935.
John Nichols vs. Panorama Resort, Page County Circuit Court, April 1936.
Reports that the C.C.C. released the bears appear in records at the National
Archives, College Park, Maryland.
Conversation with Paul Williams, Jr., July 2002 (nephew of part owner,
Paul Taylor).
Ferdinand Zerkle to William Carson, July 30, 1926. Ferdinand Zerkle Collection,
SNP Archives, box 9, folder 8.
For discussion of Pollock's belief that he would continue to operate Skyland,
see Reed Engle L., "An Historical Overview." On October 15,
1925, Pollock wrote to all former Skyland guests and present property
owners, requesting that they contribute to the Shenandoah National Park
Association. He stated that although "It is true you will have to
share the joys of this lovely retreat with many others...[there is] enough
for all for many years to come." Copy of letter in Zerkel files,
SNP Archives.
Page News & Courier 6 September 1932.
kept free from such buildings, and secondly because the present owners
have done nothing except try to block the park project." Although
Cammerer felt that Williams and Cheatham were "nice fellows,"
he believed they held "the wrong point of view." He recommended
that the owners be paid the full price for their holdings, but should
receive nothing more. Skyland, however, should be maintained "due
to Pollock's pioneering work and wonderful cooperation with park authorities."
Although it seemed clear by the spring of 1934 that Panorama would never
see the admiration Skyland received, numerous park creators saw the merits
of a visitor facility at the intersection of Skyline Drive and Lee Highway
(Route 211). Ralph Lassiter, Engineer in charge of Shenandoah, wrote to
Cammerer in March suggesting that the Tea Room, filling station, and comfort
station be maintained to provide for the crowds of visitors now touring
the mountain by way of the Skyline Drive. While the "flimsy hotel
and cottages higher on the hill" could be demolished, Lassiter believed
that the other buildings were essential for hungry and tired visitors
. Likewise, Lassiter noted that Roy Cheatham was "anxious to operate
individually
and not as a continuation of the partnership," perhaps an indication
that he recognized the potential benefits of playing along with Cammerer
and others.
Still, Cammerer maintained his position. Wilbur Hall, Carson's replacement
as chairman of the SCCD, nevertheless wrote to Cammerer as late as August
1935 practically begging the National Park Service not to destroy the
hotel given the tourist traffic in the area. Since the government was
allowing Pollock to continue, Hall requested that the NPS grant a permit
to Williams allowing him to operate until the federal government took
legal control. If the park did not want to keep the hotel, Hall believed
that the buildings should be sold for relocation rather than destroyed.
Within three days Cammerer responded to Hall noting that "the two
areas are in entirely different status." While Skyland would be continued
at its present location, Cammerer held that Panorama, "is not desired
to be perpetuated by the NPS since it does not fit into our plans."
This time, however, Cammerer did not mention Williams and Cheatham's efforts
to thwart the park movement. Rather, he simply commented that the park
was considering constructing its administrative buildings in that area
and it would be necessary to raze the present structures. Cammerer told
Hall to inform Williams "to move out equipment and furnishings without
delay."
Despite Cammerer's harsh words to Hall, four months later he told Lassiter
that he was "willing to approve the temporary continuance of the
Skyland Camp and Panorama Tea Room operations on the grounds that these
[buildings] fulfill a public necessity." While the park searched
for a single concessionaire Williams and Cheatham continued to operate
the Tea Room through 1936 although the hotel and cottages were not used
after the fall of 1935. Finally, in February 1937 the Virginia Sky-Line
Company of Richmond won the contract for concessionaire taking over the
reins of both Skyland
Cammerer to Demaray and Moskey, July 15, 1932. Cammerer
to Albright, November 30, 1932. Quoted in Darwin Lambert, Administrative
History of Shenandoah National Park, unpublished, pp. 253-254.
Ralph Lassiter to Arno Cammerer, March 27, 1934. Resource Management Records,
SNP Archives.
The federal government granted Pollock permission to continue operation
Skyland until October 31, 1934. By 1935, however, Pollock was still managing
his resort under a temporary concessions agreement. Lambert, Administrative
History, pp. 245-256. Wilbur Hall to Cammerer, August 9, 1935. Resource
Management Records, SNP Archives.
Cammerer to Hall. August 12, 1935. Resource Management Records, SNP Archives
and Panorama. Virginia Sky-Line Company continued to operate the Tea
Room until the Park Service razed the structure in 1958 to make way for
the clover-leaf intersection which now occupies the site of the former
resort.
Today Skyland remains an integral part of Shenandoah's landscape and
remembered past, while most visitors and employees know Panorama only
as an ARAMARK gift shop and restaurant. Panorama resort's short and soon
forgotten lifespan is testament to the ways in which personalities and
politics shaped the existing structures and boundaries of Shenandoah.
Pollock's political connections and constant self promotion helped assure
"why Skyland," while Williams and associates' resistance to
park development insured their removal. As with so many instances of life,
a little politics can go a long way.
Cammerer to Lassiter, December 4, 1935. Lambert, Administrative
History, pp. 356-260. While the hotel was razed, the Park Service continued
to use several of the cabins as offices for the local Bureau of Public
Roads and as employee housing through 1939. Resource Management Records,
Box 82, Folder 1, SNP Archives.
Resource Management Records, Building Files, Box 10, Folder 1, SNP Archives.
For discussion of how money and politics determined the southern portion
of Skyline Drive in the 1930s, see Reed L. Engle, "Skyline Drive:
Road to Nowhere?" August 2000.
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