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In this narrow
zone where land meets sea, salt-laden winds, cold fog-shrouded days,
steep slopes, and sandy beaches conspire against
plants. Only the toughest survive. Their stunted size and wind-pruned
shapes bear witness to an ongoing bout with the parks' harshest
environment.
Dunes shift
with the action of wind and water. Beach pea, beach strawberry,
and sand verbena adapt to this dynamic environment by anchoring
themselves with long runners on or below the surface.
Hardy Sitka
spruce (Picea sitchensis), able to withstand salt winds and
harsh conditions better than other conifers, dominate the most exposed
forest sites. Crescent Beach, Gold Bluffs Beach, Freshwater Lagoon
Spit, and the Coastal Trail are great places to discover these tenacious
maritime residents.
The coast redwood
(Sequoia semperviren) and Douglas-fir (Pseudotsuga menziesii)
are the two dominant trees of the old-growth redwood forest. The
species associated with redwood groves varies according to whether
an area is upland, streamside (riparian), along a flood plain (alluvial),
or close to the ocean.
Salt spray
and salt-laden wind injure redwoods; the beach, dune, and scrub
communities provide the coast redwood with a buffer from the harsh
coastal climate.
The
protected valleys and alluvial flats found along streams and creeks
provide ideal growing conditions for the coast redwood, with many
trees exceeding 300 feet (100 meters) in height. Other trees include
hardwoods such as tanoak (Lithocarpus densiflora), madrone
(Arbutus menziesii), big-leaf maple (Acer macrophyllum),
California bay or laurel (Umbellularia californica), and
red alder (Alnus rubra). Sword fern (Polystichum munitum)
and redwood sorrel (Oxalis oregana) are the most common members
of redwoods' understory, and are accompanied by rhododendron (Rhododendron
macrophyllum), huckleberry (Vaccinium spp.), salal (Gaultheria
shallon), azalea (Rhododendron occidentele), and other
shrubs.
On dry, windy
slopes and ridges, redwood growth is limited by water stress. Here,
trees may reach an average height of 200 feet (61 meters) or less.
At higher elevations,
and further inland, redwood seedling establishment is limited by
hotter, drier conditions, and the redwood forest gives way to a
mixed evergreen forest. Dry forest species include Douglas-fir,
tanoak, madrone, California bay, chinquapin (Chrysolepis chrysophylla),
canyon live oak (Quercus chysolepis), and Jeffrey pine (Pinus
jeffreyi).
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