Yellowstone Historic Resource Study The History of the Construction of the Road System in Yellowstone National Park, 1872-1966

The first publicized drive for a road from Bozeman, Montana via the West Fork of the Gallatin River and over Bighorn Pass to Yellowstone National Park was in 1904 at the insistence of a group of Bozeman citizens. [1] Almost immediately Maj. Hiram Chittenden, the Army officer in charge of the road construction and improvements in Yellowstone National Park, warned the chief engineer in Washington D. C. that he objected to the proposal by the Bozeman citizens. He believed that the four existing approach roads, the North, the South, the West and the East met the needs of the public and that the road would be "of local importance mainly, and as such is not justified as a public measure". With the road having to cross high country, it would probably be available for travel for an average of two months a year. Major Chittenden, who estimated the road to cost approximately $50,000 plus maintenance, felt strongly that "It would be bad policy to increase that burden unless there is positive public necessity for it. It will be a great deal better to develop and perfect the present system of roads than to extend it unduly." [2]

However, a few years later a sum of $1,000 was specified in the appropriation for 1907 to be spent on a survey for a road to Bozeman through the northwest corner of the Park. The proposed route would begin at a point 7 miles south of Mammoth Hot Springs on the Norris road and would exit the Park at a point where the Gallatin River crossed the Park boundary. Lt. Ernest Peek calculated that a "crude road" could be constructed for $32,055 or a more substantial one built for about $100,000. Lieutenant Peek also felt that the maintenance cost on such a road would be so heavy "without any corresponding benefit to the general public." [3]

No action was taken on the fifth entrance road into the Park, but a survey and permission to build a road from Bozeman to Yellowstone (West Yellowstone), the new settlement at the west entrance to Park was secured by the Gallatin county commissioners in 1910.[4] During the summers of 1910 and 1911, the road contractors, Moore and Moore of Eldgridge, Montana constructed the road, 14 miles of which were within the boundary of the Yellowstone National Park. The road contractors were granted permission to construct a small log cabin within the Park boundary. The log cabin site, which was to be out of sight of the road, would be selected by the non-commissioned officer stationed at the Gallatin Soldier Station. Under certain restrictions the contractor was allowed to cut logs to be used in the cabin's construction and also for bridges on the Park section of the road. As part of the agreement, upon the completion of the road, the cabin which was used for storage of tools and equipment would be turned over to the Army. [5] The contractor was sent a copy of the rules and regulations of the Park, and was expected to abide by them.

In October, 1911, the road was completed for a total cost of $9,793.44 for the entire 31.1 miles. The county commissioners claimed that the 14 miles portion within the park boundary was $7,312.19. At the time of completion 60 bridges had been constructed on the road and one 120 feet long bridge across the Madison outside of the park boundary had not been finished. [6]

The completed road, which had no greater than an 8% grade, lessened the trip from Bozeman to Yellowstone (West Yellowstone) by approximately 55 miles. It was considered a much easier route than the one through Madison County. Within the same week of its completion, the Gallatin County commissioners now sought permission from Lieutenant Colonel Brett, the park superintendent to use automobiles on the road through the Park. The commissioners stated:

We cannot see where there would be any objection for the reason that our road does not connect with any road entering the park until the town of Yellowstone is reached. In passing over our road through the edge of the Park we noticed an old Government survey had been made through there and have thought perhaps the Government at some time intended to construct a wagon road. We certainly believe that it would only be a great convenience to the Government but also to the Park Improvement Company as it brings both in close touch with the Gallatin Valley, the great grainary of our State. While over in the south end of our county we were informed by the builders of the great dam that they are now building a road around the north edge of the dam or lake above the water line which will connect with our road at the crossing of the Madison River at our bridge which will make a complete circuit of the lake and enable travelers to pass on west if they so desire. We hope you will consider this proposal with favor. From our point of view we cannot see where will it damage the Park in any manner whatever and it would certainly be a great public benefit and convenience for us in the transaction of necessary public business. The growth and development of the southern portion of our county makes it necessary for us to make frequent visits to that portion of our county. [7]

Lieutenant Colonel Brett replied that no permits for passage of automobiles had ever been permitted in Yellowstone, but he would forward their appeal to the secretary of the interior. [8]

The following year, the citizens again presented an application for use of automobiles on the road cutting through the northwest section of the Park. Lieutenant Colonel Brett explained that pressure and considerable agitation had been exerted from many quarters on parks, on different government departments, and to the Congress to allow the admittance of automobiles on park roads in general, however, he (Brett) was reluctant to forward the request and suggested that they submit it directly to the secretary of interior. Brett added:

While, as stated above, autos on your road through the park would not be likely to do any immediate damage, the exception to the rule in one place would be apt to be used as an opening wedge resulting in the short time to their general use through out the park, and our best authorities have agreed that this would not be safe with the roads in their present condition. Efforts are being made to get sufficient appropriations to build new roads for autos or widen the present ones to accommodate all sorts of traffic, but until this is done it is doubtful if the Department will favor the use of motor vehicles on any road within the park. [9]

In March of 1913, the superintendent of Yellowstone requested information from the county commissioners in regard to the exact number of miles within the Park boundary, the number of bridges on the park segment, and if Gallatin County spent any money on improvements or maintenance of the road during the summer of 1912. [10] The commissioners replied that there were 47 bridges on the 17.86 miles of park road and that a separate accounting of cost had not taken place for the park road segment. [11]

On May 31, 1913, the secretary of the interior granted permission for automobile use of the Gallatin Road but not permitted on any other Yellowstone road. The secretary's memorandum stated:

Automobiles will be allowed to travel over the wagon road between Gallatin Station, Yellowstone National Park, and the town of Yellowstone, Montana, of which road about 17 miles lies wholly within the park. This authority granted upon condition that extraordinary care be exercised not to jeopardize life or limb of persons using road with animal drawn vehicles; that speed limit does not exceed 15 miles per hour; that rules and regulations of the park be strictly observed; and with further understanding that additional regulations and toll charges may be exacted later by the Department if found desirable. [12]

Due to unfit conditions the automobiles did not use the Gallatin Road until 1914.

Shortly after permission was granted for automobile usage, the county commissioners requested funding from the Government for the construction and maintenance of the park segment citing its importance and necessity:

There is no means of communication between the Southern end of the County and the City of Bozeman, the County Seat, except via the Madison river, 136 miles, and via the Oregon Short Line Railroad, 396 miles, and therefore the construction of the West Gallatin Road will afford the shortest and easiest mode of communication to the inhabitants of the Southern end of the County with the City of Bozeman, the County seat; within this section is the Hebgen Dam, which ultimately is intended and expected to be one of the greatest irrigation reservoirs and power producing plants. Therefore, the construction of this road is of material importance to the inhabitants of the town of Yellowstone, of Hebgen Dam, and all that territory, and also to the inhabitants adjacent to tributary territory and upon the construction of this road depends the material and general development of that section of the country. Within the Gallatin National Forest there are approximately forty homesteaders tributary to the West Gallatin Road whose only communication and means of transportation to a shipping point is via this road. The improvement of this road will encourage and assist settlement along the West Gallatin River and will open up an almost impassable road to connect the Southern end of the County with the County Seat, the Southern end of the County now being practically isolated.

The construction of the West Gallatin Road will facilitate the supervision and care of both the Gallatin and Madison National Forests; the prevention of forest fires and the getting out of timber on Government and private lands.

The construction of the West Gallatin Road will also facilitate the administration and supervision of the Yellowstone National Park and the protection of the game in one of the greatest game preserves in the United States, to-wit: The Gallatin Preserve created by House Bill No. 304, Laws of Montana, Twelfth Session, 1911.

The construction of the West Gallatin Road will open up and afford an unrivaled scenic road for tourists to the Yellowstone National Park, and an automobile road to and from the Western entrance of the Yellowstone National Park, to-wit: the town of Yellowstone, and tourists from all parts will thereby be enabled to visit the Yellowstone National Park via this road, or return from the Park via this road.

The County of Gallatin has expended on the West Gallatin Road to the date hereof approximately the following amounts:

From the mouth of Spanish Creek to a point where the said road enters the Yellowstone National Park line—$35,000. Within the Yellowstone National Park—$10,000. From a point where said road comes out of the Yellowstone National Park to the town of Yellowstone $2,5000. Total $47,500.

And in addition thereto approximately the sum of $5,000 has been expended by the Forest Service on that part of the West Gallatin Road from the mouth of Spanish Creek to a point where the said road enters the Yellowstone National Park.

No final estimate has been made of the cost of the construction of the West Gallatin Road, although several preliminary estimates have been so made; as a result of the construction work done by the County of Gallatin on that part of the West Gallatin Road from the mouth of Spanish Creek to where the road enters the Yellowstone National Park, a distance of forty-two miles, there is a good mountain road, so to from where the road leaves the Park line to the Madison River there is a good road, but from the Madison River to the town of Yellowstone additional work must necessarily be done in order to put the road in passable condition.

That part of the West Gallatin Road which will be most difficult to construct and maintain and which will necessarily cost the most to us in proper shape for travel, within the Yellowstone National Park, and as before, stated the County of Gallatin, has already expended approximately $10,000 on this part of said road.

The number of miles within the Yellowstone National Park is 17.8, the number of bridges to be built is 35, the maximum grade of the road is 8% and the work to be done is as follows:

Grading: Widening of grades along side hills. Raising grades through wet places. Reparing and building bridges. Widening of right of way through timber. Riprapping in several places. Construction of corduroy road.

The estimated cost of the construction of said 17.8 miles of road within the Yellowstone National Park is $45,000 in all, or about $2,500 per mile.

The County of Gallatin has necessarily got to expend a large sum of money in order that the road from the mouth of Spanish Creek to where it enters the Yellowstone National Park, 42 miles, and from where it leaves the Yellowstone National Park line to the town of Yellowstone, 12 miles, shall be put in proper shape for general traffic. It is the opinion of the of Board of County Commissioners of the County of Gallatin that it is only proper and reasonable that the Federal Government should defray the costs of the construction of that part thereof within the Yellowstone National Park, 17.8 miles, more or less, for the reasons herein before given and for the additional reason that the Federal Government will derive its proportion of the benefit therefrom, which benefit is to be measured by the convenience in the administration of the affairs of the Yellowstone National Park, the affairs of the Madison and Gallatin National Forests, and the general development of that section of the country

WHEREFORE, the Board of County Commissioners asks that the Honorable T.J. Walsh and the Honorable Henry L. Myers, Senators, and the Honorable Thomas Stout and the Honorable John M. Evans, Representatives, use their best endeavors to the end that an appropriation be made by the Federal Government for the construction of that part of the West Gallatin Road within the Yellowstone National Park, as herein set forth.

Dated this 3rd day of February, A. D. 1914. [13]

The district Army engineer reported to the chief of engineers, U. S. Army, that the West Gallatin Road had never been inspected by the Army engineers, but that Lieutenant Colonel Brett described the road as:

Narrow, fairly easy grades, and a fairly good dirt road most of the way. A few slight cuts and fills. About 50 yards broken rocks near northwestern corner. Miry in wet weather, and was late in opening spring 1913, on account wet weather. Some of the expense of upkeep is for clearing out of trees carried down by snow slides.

The engineering officer stated that the road was not "an absolute necessity" for protecting and administrating the northwestern corner of the Park. While the road is used to "some extent by Park patrols" maintaining the Gallatin Soldier Station, most of the supplies are carried by pack train over the trails from Fort Yellowstone with the distance over one trail being 30 miles and the distance over another trail being 23 miles as opposed to the 75 miles by use of the road. He added that since the completion of the road, several new trails had been cut along the western boundary of the Park, with the patrols using the road to some extent. He said that some patrols use the road entirely.

The report to the chief of engineers explained that the road was not considered part of the road system constructed and maintained by the Army Corps of Engineers. Any use of funds for this section would have to be expressly authorized by Congress. The officer recommended that funds not be requested by the War Department as "The cost of maintenance of this road in its present condition would be entirely out of proportion to the benefits which would accrue to the Park." The Army's estimates for the annual maintenance sum should be approximately $3,000.00; they would not speculate on the cost of improvements as the engineers had not inspected the road, but from their experience with similar roads, it should be no more than $1,000.00 per mile. [14]

As a result of the increased automobile travel to the Park via the West Entrance, the Army engineers reversed their opinion of not supporting government funding for the improvements to the 17.8 miles of the West Gallatin Road. In the 1916 annual report, Major Fries, the superintendent, requested that the Government assume the responsibility for the maintenance and repair of the 17.8 miles section. [15]

In an August 1918 meeting held in Bozeman, Montana between Horace Albright, then assistant director of the National Park Service and Henry Graves, chief forester of the Forest Service a tentative agreement was reached whereby the Forest Service agreed to construct a road in the forest reserve up the West Gallatin River to the Gallatin Soldier Station in the park, that the National Park Service would connect with the road at the soldier station and construct the remaining portion within the park. The Gallatin County commissioners complied with the agreement with the Forest Service and by June, 1919, a locational survey had been completed within the forest section and bids for construction were due to be advertised by the end of June.

The National Park Service scheduled their locational survey for the summer of 1919. At the end of the summer, Stephen Mather inspected the park road system. Among his recommendations for action was a suggestion that the West Gallatin road be widened and that section from Grayling Creek to Yellowstone (West Yellowstone), Montana be rerouted within the park boundary. [16]

In 1920, William Buttelman, Chairman of the Board of County Commissioners, Gallatin County sought information on the West Gallatin Road plans of the National Park Service in a letter to Horace Albright, who was now the superintendent of Yellowstone National Park:

As you perhaps know, work on our road was started as soon as the necessary surveys could be made, and to date, we have expended $50,000 as our share of construction. We have just completed arrangements with representatives of the Forest Service for the construction of four more sections of the road next spring and summer. Instead of costing this county $70,000 for its share of construction, as was originally intended, it is probable that it will cost us $125,000 or more. In addition, if present plans are carried out we will reconstruct the present road from Salesville to the point where construction of the West Gallatin Road was started; where necessary this reconstruction calls for gravel, and the estimated cost of this part of the road is high. This very material increase over the estimated cost is making it difficult for us to finance our share, particularly at this time, but we feel, in view of our agreement with the Department of Agriculture and with your Department, and the very great importance of the road, not only to this county but from the standpoint of tourists, to the entire state and nation that every effort should be expended in order that the road may be completed and opened up at the earliest possible date. At the time we feel that we are, to a large extent, wasting our money unless your Department actually constructs a road to connect with ours.

This is a matter of great importance to us and may we not request that you notify us definitely of the plans of your Department relative to the road in question? If the money for the construction of this road is to come from a bill to be passed by Congress, will you notify us of the present status of the bill, and of its progress from time to time? [17]

Three days later, Horace Albright responded to William Buttelman:

. . . We also discussed the possibility of continuing the road from Grayling Creek southward to the west entrance road, keeping it entirely within the Park boundaries. I promised at the time that we would have our part of the road carefully surveyed for the purpose of determining what it would cost to have that section of the highway improved along the lines of the reconstruction of the Gallatin road outside the Park.

This was as far as the National Park Service was able to get at that time. Last year under my direction as Superintendent of the Park, the surveying that I promised was done, and we ascertained that it would cost approximately $60,000 to improve the road in the Park and rebuild the section south of Grayling. The estimate was transmitted to the Washington office of the National Park Service, but was not submitted to Congress for two reasons. First, because of advice received from the Committee on Appropriations that it would not consider any new road construction projects in the national parks on account of the necessity for strict economy in the year 1920, and second, because it was not thought advisable to begin construction work in the Park until the County work outside was far enough along to enable us to say to Congress that our new road would connect with a reconstructed highway north of the park. It was the purpose of the National Park Service to submit the estimate this winter with a view of having the funds made available for use during the summer of 1921.

In the meantime, in July 1920, the Appropriations Committee of the House of Representatives visited Yellowstone park, and its members were so impressed with the fact that Yellowstone already had such a vastly larger road mileage than any other park, that they expressed the opinion that no more new road construction projects should be undertaken there until the other parks got farther ahead.

Recently I was called to Washington to appear before the Appropriations Committee on the fiscal affairs of the Park, and during my hearing I covered the roads of the Yellowstone Park very thoroughly, emphasizing before the said Committee and the many members individually that the Gallatin road had to be built on account of the vast amount of money spent by the County if for no other reason. However, the Committee undoubtedly continues to stand on its view that the Yellowstone Park has been treated well enough so far as road construction is concerned, and that it should be kept on a purely maintenance basis for the next few years. While I do not anticipate, therefore, that we will have any money to use in the new construction on the Gallatin road next summer, it is our purpose to do some very effective maintenance work and I expect to have an efficient crew on the road throughout the season.

I am sorry that I cannot give you a more encouraging reply at this time. However, after I have had a chance to get the opinion of some Washington officials on the road situation in the national parks, I may find the prospect for the Gallatin road brighter than it now seems. [18]

By 1923, approximately $500,00 had been spent by the Forest Service, Gallatin county and the state of Montana on the road from Bozeman to the park boundary. Albright noted that of the total amount, $300,000 of Forest funds had been used on that section. While conceding that the "road runs through an extremely scenic canyon and will be a most attractive approach to the park when finished", he felt that it will never be as important as the road from Livingston for which very little Federal money had been spent and "which is used by so many thousands of people and which is so very dangerous to life and limb". [19]

Albright reported to Mather that no funds were in sight for this project and that citizens of Gallatin County were now urging the revival of the old scheme of a road following the Gallatin over the Bighorn pass, down Panther Creek, and merging with the Grand Loop at the Seven Mile Bridge. The route was particularly attractive to the Chicago, Milwaukee, and St. Paul Railroad who were thought prepared to spend $300,000 to $400,000 for a road survey. This would have enabled the railroad company to bus people directly from their terminus near Bozeman and compete with Northern Pacific Railroad which had their terminus at the park boundary at Gardiner. [20] Mather opposed the building of the new road across Bighorn Pass. He felt strongly that "We must keep a large area of Yellowstone in a state of untouched wildness if we are too be faithful to our trust as protectors of the wild life with which the park abounds." [21]

Albright agreed with Mather that nonessential roads should not be built in an area that is "full of wild life particularly elk" and that the "wild life of the park must have some secluded places in which to live unmolested by the noise and bustle of heavy traffic." The secretary of the interior denied the Chicago, Milwaukee, and St. Paul Railroad permission to conduct the survey. [22]

Just one year before the Bureau of Public Roads assumed the responsibility for road construction in Yellowstone National Park in 1926, park engineers completed preliminary surveys of the approximately 18 miles section north and west of Grayling Creek on the West Gallatin Road. Albright described this section of the road as "little better than a trail; it is narrow, and is a one-track road with many sharp blind curves and crosses Grayling twelve times on log bridges to avoid sidehill excavation. In the eighteen miles there are 35 log and pole bridges having combined length of 760 feet. These bridges require considerable repairs work to maintain them in a safe and stable condition. The proposed new road will be located entirely on the north and west side of Grayling Creek, except possibly two crossings at the most. The estimated cost for unit #1 is $60,000 in which is included an eighty foot concrete bridge over the Gallatin River." [23]

By 1927, the state highway departments had completed roads of high standards near the park providing a contrast with the poor condition of the park roads. Thus Albright called for the reconstruction of East Entrance Road and the West Gallatin Road. [24] In 1928, the West Gallatin Road was one of the three new road projects scheduled for the park. By the end of November, 1928, the Pioneer Construction Company of Bozeman, Montana completed the northern section of the project, under the supervision of the Bureau of Public Roads. All of the grading at been completed, C.M.P. culverts with concrete headwalls had been installed and two bridges, the Bacon Rind Bridge and the Speciman Creek Bridge had been completed. In 1927, Thomas Vint, associate landscape engineer for the National Park Service recommended that the bridges for this road be of the same design as those used by the Forest Service and the State of Montana in their portions of the road. Of all of the sketches submitted to Vint by the Bureau of Public Roads, he stated that he preferred the type used on the other park work, but that he would accept the concrete type used on the other sections through the forests. [25]

The southern section or Grayling Creek section was designated a minor road project and was constructed by day laborers under the supervision of the National Park Service. This 8.8 miles section had lower standards than those used on the northern section. The alignment and the grade line were the same as used on the northern section, however the width of the road was reduced and corrugated metal culvert pipes or wooden structures were installed instead of the concrete structures found on the other section. In some cases more temporary type structures were built in anticipation of more funds at a later date. Two temporary camps housing up to 70 men were established during the summer of 1928. By October 4, the camps had been dismantled due to lack of funds. [26]

During the early 1930s, the road received light surfacing and oiling and the condition was commended by Bozeman attorney, George Patten who expressed on behalf of the county his gratitude "for the consideration we have had from you gentlemen of the Park Service." [27]

In 1934, the Emergency Conservation Work program had several crews working in the Gallatin area. The crews had various projects including roadside cleanup, and the blending and sloping of the roadside banks. [28] The next year the crews began the construction of two entrance signs, one at Grayling Creek and one at Daly Creek. Sanford Hill, the associate landscape architect found the work of the C.C.C. crews at Grayling Creek to be inferior. It had been recommended that an experienced stone mason be hired to do the work, but the park was unable to find one. Hill stopped progress on the project until an experienced foreman could be found to supervise. [29] In 1939, Hill reported to Superintendent Edmund Rogers:

These entrance pylons have not been completed although they were started about five years ago. The present appearance of this entrance to Yellowstone is very disappointing and it is recommended that this project be completed, which should include the construction of two new lettered signs. These new signs could be constructed in the sign shop using our new type letters, although they should be the same size as the original design. [30]

In 1940, the Bureau of Public Roads felt that with their new six-year proposed road plan, all essential work will be done to complete the Yellowstone road system. The only project proposed and surveyed in 1927 which had not been planned or completed was the Bighorn Pass road off the West Gallatin Road. Still in 1940, this proposed road was not considered necessary. [31]

No major work was done on the West Gallatin Road during the War years and the late 1940s. In 1950, the Teepee Creek Bridge was reconstructed. [32] In 1952, an inspection of the primary roads in Yellowstone showed that the system was in generally good condition, with the exception of the Gallatin Road. The unstable subgrade, the less than desirable base and the heavy volume of truck traffic continued to plagued the engineers on this section of the road. Approximately 75% of the road had been patched or showed distress. It was felt that at least 12.5 miles of the road would need complete reconstruction. The good condition assessment to the remaining system was attributed to the improved maintenance practices.

For the next few years, no new major construction projects were underway, and routine maintenance tried to address the ever increasing problems. However, the maintenance of the approach roads to the parks attracted the attention of the Congress. In "Report on Negotiations for States to Take Over the Maintenance of Roads Outside the Boundaries of the National Parks and Monuments as Required by the Conference Report on the Interior Department Appropriation Bill, 1955," three of Yellowstone's roads were an issue—the Northeast Approach Road, the South Approach Road, and the West Gallatin Road. In regard to the West Gallatin Road, the report suggested:

This road is in an isolated section of the park and serves only minor park interests as compared to the usage it receives throughout the year by commercial traffic. . . . The Governor was requested by Assistant Secretary Lewis on March 5, 1954, to consider transfer of this road to the State, and at the Governor's suggestion, a meeting of Service and State Highway personal for a general discussion of the matter was held on June 2, 1954. Subsequently, the State took action to accomplish a portion of the reconstruction and is currently working on a two mile section within the Park conjunction with contiguous construction just outside of the park. The Service will follow up on the various aspects of this general operation relative to additional reconstruction and determination of the width of right-of way acceptable in transferring responsibility to the State. [33]