• View from Sourdough Mountain Overlook  A view looking down onto Diablo Lake. Photo Credit: NPS/Michael Silverman, 2010.

    North Cascades

    National Park Washington

Climbing Conditions - Mt. Triumph

Climbing conditions for Mount Triumph can be found below. For conditions on other climbs, return to Planning a Climb.

Condition reports come from climbing and wilderness rangers, the voluntary climbing register, and other climbers. To make a climbing report, please email the Wilderness Information Center in Marblemount. Please include the route, snow level, any hazards encountered (or not), peak(s) attempted, and whether your party successfully summitted.

All of the climbing routes in the park complex are located in wilderness, but some are wilder than others, and there may be limited or outdated information. Use these reports as a baseline, but plan for changing conditions and a true adventure. On many routes, the discovery, physical stress, and route-finding challenges are half the fun.

Mount Triumph

Conditions Date Author

Mt. Triumph Northeast Ridge August 9-11th 2013

Thorton Lakes trail in usual conditions except for a few blown down trees after the weekend’s storms.

From the second Thorton Lake ascend to the Triumph Col (which is different that Triumph Pass labeled on the USGS map) to the North of the lake following a faint trail. At the top of the Col where one reaches snow descend down and across to the glacier. Stay low to avoid the crevasses but beware of large chunks of Ice calving off especially during the warm parts of the day.

To gain the Northeast ridge move onto low angle rock, right of the obvious snow gully access from earlier in the season, it is “super chill.” Following ramps move up and left towards the notch at the beginning of the ridge climb where one begins to find anchor slings.

On this patrol we cleaned over 10 pounds of extraneous webbing from rappel anchors and replaced some worn out ones as well. This route has been cleaned many times before and seems to get A LOT of webbing added to it and little removed by the general public. In the future, hopefully climbers will trust 2-3 good slings and/or replace and remove any that seem to be wearing out.

-Climbing Ranger

08/11/13 Climbing Ranger

Email an updated report for this route.


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