North Cascades National Park Complex - Climbing Conditions - Mt. Shuksan (U.S. National Park Service)

NPS

June 27, 2010: The Shuksan summit pyramid viewed from Sulphide Glacier.

This page provides climbers with the latest conditions for Mt. Shuksan, northern and southern approaches. For conditions on other climbs, return to Planning a Climb.

Condition reports come from climbing and wilderness rangers, the voluntary climbing register, and other climbers. To make a climbing report, please email the Wilderness Information Center in Marblemount. Please include the route, snow level, any hazards encountered (or not), peak(s) attempted, and whether your party successfully summitted.

All of the climbing routes in the park complex are located in wilderness, but some are wilder than others, and there may be limited or outdated information. Use these reports as a baseline, but plan for changing conditions and a true adventure. On many routes, the discovery, physical stress, and route-finding challenges are half the fun.

Mt. Shuksan (via Sulphide Glacier)

Conditions Report		Author
Shannon Ridge Trail in good condition to 4000'. Between 4000' and 4200' there are a lot of down trees. Trail is difficult to follow at times, especially on the way down. Solid snow starts at 4300'. Shannon Ridge is under 2 to 8 feet of snow. The lower bivy sites have two tent spots melted out. Running water was found a bit west and ~30 feet down slope from the bivy sites. The lower bivy composting toilet (100' downslope) has been dug out and is available for use. The upper bivy composting toilet is still under snow. Sulphide Glacier is in good shape. If starting early (before 7 a.m.) crampons would be advised. No major crevasses observed on the standard route. Summit pyramid has solid snow for the first 1/3 of the way up, then mostly rock with two sections of snow up to 30' long in the upper half of the summit pyramid. Summit block is snow free.	08/13/11	Ranger
Forest service road 1152-014 is clear of snow to trailhead. First mile and a half of trail in good shape. Continuous snow cover starts at ~3500'. Be aware of collapsing snow bridges and the possibility of postholing. Lots of snow on Shannon Ridge. Hard crust in the early morning makes crampons useful for steeper sections. Skis or snowshoes recommended as the snow softens up. Be aware of collapsing cornices on traverse from 5400' to 5900'. Composting toilet under snow-using blue bags for waste disposal is required. No running water available from Shannon Ridge on up. Sulphide Glacier is in good shape: standard route has no visible open crevasses. Conditions in central gully becoming difficult. Uncosolidated (sugar) snow was encountered that was difficult to protect. Snow and ice on rocks around summit can release spontaneously. Much of the snow has melted from the south ridge, though a fair bit of mixed climbing remains.	07/02/11	Ranger
Snow begins on Shannon Ridge Trail about 1.5 miles from the trailhead. Route to summit 100% covered beyond this point. Terrain above 6000' is still receiving new snow during storms. Wet snow avalanches still a concern on steep terrain. Central gully on summit pyramid 100% snow covered. SE ridge 80% snow covered. Skis recommended due to soft snow conditions on warm afternoons. Bivi sites and composting toilets buried by snow.	06/27/11	Ranger
Fresh snow around the summit.	06/23/11	Climber
Summit Pyramid too dangerous with cornices	06/19/11	Climber
Shannon Ridge Rd (FS Rd 1152) is clear of snow and driveable to the Shannon Ridge trailhead. First mile of trail is in good condition. Continuous snow cover started at ~3000'. Lots of snow on Shannon Ridge. Crampons can be useful in early morning for the steep approach to the notch. Skis or snowshoes recommended in the soft snow. Be aware of collapsing cornices on the traverse from the notch to the toe of Sulphide Glacier--practice safe avalanche travel techniques. Composting toilets are all still under snow, so blue bags are required. No flowing water accessible beyond the notch, so bring fuel for melting snow. Sulphide Glacier is in good condition, no open crevasses on standard route. Climbers reported good conditions in the central gully of the summit pyramid, and difficult conditions on the southeast ridge because rime ice makes it difficult to climb and protect.	6/5/11	Ranger
Solid snow begins ~3/4 mi up Shannon Ridge Trail. ~10' snow on Shannon Ridge, so it may be a while before the snow melts. Rain-saturated snow is soft and there is potential for wet slides. LARGE cornices hang above the traverse between the notch and the toe of Sulphide Glacier--use extreme caution, espeically on warm days. The glacier is completely snow-covered.	5/30/11	Ranger
Last 1/2 mile of Shannon Ridge Road still covered with snow. Large tree down across road ~1/3 mile from trailhead will block road after snow melts.	5/29/11	Ranger

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Mt. Shuksan (northern approaches)

Conditions Report	Date	Author
Fisher Chimneys: Road closed at Heather Meadows adds 30 minutes to approach. Easy consolidated snow conditions through pass/drainage all the way to Lake Ann. To base of chimneys is steep sidehilling with high consequence. Melting out moats makes for difficult transitions from rock to snow. Chimneys are straightforward, mostly snow (50+ degrees) 50m rope is just enough to go moat to moat for belays/lowers. Key anchors are melted out for descent. Conditions above chimneys are great.	7/6/11	Climber
Entire route extremely soft, isothermic, N Face excellent, crevasses all passable, upper bergschrund OK, summit pyramid extremely soft. White Salmon Glacier excellent, no crevasse problems. Still lots of snow in forest, trend high to avoid lower gully.	7/7/11	Climber
Price Glacier: poor overnight crust despite clear skies. Unconsolidated, unprotectable snow.	7/2/11	Climber
Fisher Chimneys: all snow from Baker ski area to the base of the chimneys. Approach via lower curtis glacier involves less steep exposed sidehilling than standard summer approach. Chimneys are 80% snow covered. Travel on upper Curtis very filled in. Summit pyramid all snow. SE ridge covered in snow and rime.	6/27/11	Climber
Fisher Chimneys: Deep snow. Route finding difficult without GPS. Base of Chimneys really deep snow. Point release avalanches above Lower Curtis. Wet slab avalanches off cliffs at beginning of trail to Fisher Chimneys. Another off steep slope above Lake Ann. Snow hard to protect for climbers due to hot weather over the weekend and rain today. Did not attempt summit due to poor/dangerous conditions.	6/7/11	Climber

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