North Cascades National Park Service Complex - Climbing Conditions

This page provides climbers with the latest conditions for Mt. Shuksan, northern and southern approaches. For conditions on other climbs, return to Planning a Climb.

Condition reports come from climbing and wilderness rangers, the voluntary climbing register, and other climbers. To make a climbing report, please email the Wilderness Information Center in Marblemount. Please include the route, snow level, any hazards encountered (or not), peak(s) attempted, and whether your party successfully summitted.

All of the climbing routes in the park complex are located in wilderness, but some are wilder than others, and there may be limited or outdated information. Use these reports as a baseline, but plan for changing conditions and a true adventure. On many routes, the discovery, physical stress, and route-finding challenges are half the fun.

Mt. Shuksan (via Sulphide Glacier)

Conditions Report	Date	Author
Trail was muddy but good, still snow on Shannon Ridge, Sulphide Glacier has many small cracks but few large crevasses. Sulphide route to summit was good. New snow @ ~ 6 - 6500	6/23/09	Climber
Trail is snow free to about 4400'. All snow-covered from Shannon Ridge. Glacier is in great shape and summit pyramid still has a thin ribbon of snow up couloir.	6/22/09	Climber
Soft snow, expect to posthole. Excellent skiing on Sulphide and Shannon Ridge. Sulphide still closed (no crevasses). Summit pyramid easy route in snow/ice - kicked steps.	5/31/09	Climber
Shannon Ridge trail is clear of snow for first 1-2 miles. Switchbacks still snow-covered but melting fast. Tough scramble up to the ridge. Still a lot of avalanche activity between 5600' and 6200'. Warm night made for very slushy conditions, even at 3am.	5/29/09	Visitor
First mile of Shannon Ridge trail is snowfree, then solid snowpack. Route-finding is tricky through the trees - map and compass or GPS recommended. Approach to Shuksan straight-forward. Entire route, all bivy sites, and all compost toilets still under snow - climbers should bring blue bags. Snowpack is sloppy and unstable. Current route crosses two large slide paths and a dangerous avy slope between 5600' and 6200' levels. Climbers are advised to cross these slopes quickly and preferably before noon. Sulphide Glacier is still snow-covered with no exposed crevasses along the route. Summit pyramid also has good snow cover, although snow in the couloir has been very soft and unconsolidated after about noon. Climbers should also be advised to expect rock/ice fall and to wear their helmets.	5/25/09	Ranger

Email an updated report for this route.

Mt. Shuksan (northern approaches)

Conditions Report	Date	Author
Fisher Chimneys-Advanced snow and ice skills recommended. Snow in chimneys. Route finding required to reach Lake Ann. Trail only 25% snow free. Creek crossing is tough. Entire valley bottom still snow covered. Postholing in valley bottom.	6/28/09	Climber
Nooksack Tower - Very good, no problem keeping on or close to trail to campsite at 5800 feet on ridge. 3 inches new snow, slowed party down.	6/28/09	Climber
North Face - Excellent firm snow. Minimal crevasse hazard. Rather brushy camped on rock at 5500 feet at base of route. Water 300 feet below.	6/27/09	Climber
Fisher Chimneys - Lake Ann trail mostly snow covered, not easy to follow. Fisher Chimneys are mostly melted out, snow crossings in between chimneys. Glacier in great shape, crevasses still filled in. Summit Pyramid still has thin ribbon of snow in couloir, but melting fast.	6/17/09	Climber

Email an updated report for this route.