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North Cascades National Park Complex Picket Range
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North Cascades National Park Complex
Climbing Conditions - Pickets

This page provides climbers with the latest conditions for peaks in the northern and southern Pickets, including Challenger, Luna, West McMillan, etc.  For conditions on other climbs, return to Planning a Climb.

Condition reports come from climbing and wilderness rangers, the voluntary climbing register, and other climbers. To make a climbing report, please email the Wilderness Information Center in Marblemount. Please include the route, snow level, any hazards encountered (or not), peak(s) attempted, and whether your party successfully summitted.

All of the climbing routes in the park complex are located in wilderness, but some are wilder than others, and there may be limited or outdated information. Use these reports as a baseline, but plan for changing conditions and a true adventure. On many routes, the discovery, physical stress, and route-finding challenges are half the fun.

 

Pickets

Peak/Route Conditions Report Date Author
Northern Pickets via Hannegan Pass Solid snow at 4000'. Snow continues below Hannegan Pass to just west of copper creek camp. Did not attempt Chilliwack crossing at US Cabin to reach Easy Ridge-too much water. Lots of snow at Whatcom Pass area. Traversed under whatcom glacier in route to Challneger. Be careful of 40' cornice in Perfect Pass area. Challenger Glacier snow covered- early June conditions. Wiley Eiley Ridge snow covered. Western end of ridge required belay-was not able to scramble. 7/10/11 Climber
Southern Pickets Continuous snow from 4800'. Crescent Creek Basin almost all snow. Snow high on Terror and Degenhardt; 10' of snow on Chopping Block. Log over Terror Creek still good, trail up to barrier easy to find and follow. 7/9/11 Climber
North Pickets Traverse

Traversed Whatcom Glacier to Challenger Glacier- no postholing. Snow begins at Whatcom Pass. Challenger Glacier in great shape. Bergschrund on Challenger Peak easily passed. Descent into Luna Cirque almost all snow covered with no postholing. Climb up Luna Col is all snow covered. Climb to East Fury went well. Some rotten snow on traverse over to SE glacier. Bergschrund could be a problem in another couple of weeks. 50-degree snow slope to summit with some postholing.

7/7/11 Climber
Terror Basin Snow at 4000'. Consolidated to 7600'. Skiid W. McMillan Spire and into Azure Lake. 7/7/11 Climber
Northern Pickets Snow becomes solid on the way up to Wiley-Eiley Ridge at 4500'. Ridge is snow covered, with soft snow conditions but no postholing. Dry camping at Wiley lake on rock slabs. No water but lots of snow. Challenger Glacier is in great shape, no bergschrund issues. Pitch of rock was wet with patchy snow. Dropping into Luna Basin was all snow with a few rock slabs and streams exposed. All snow down to Lousy Lake and from Lousy Lake to Luna Lake. From lake up to Luna-Fury Ridge was all snow, although some moats may open soon. Cols on ridge had cornices on south side. Looking towards Fury from ridge looks like mostly snow with some rock/heather showing. Scramble up Luna is all on rock. Bear tracks seen at 7200'. Access creek basin is snow filled until ~3500'. Big Beaver creek crossing just north of access creek involved logs, a sandbar and a shin deep ford. Some snow stability issues observed up high- rain event triggered a cornice collapse and seperate point release slide on SE glacier on Fury. Most north faces looked pretty snowy. 7/6/11 Climber
Email an updated report for routes in the northern or southern Pickets.

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Did You Know?

Did You Know?
North Cascades National Park Service Complex includes 684,000 acres near the crest of the Cascade Mountains from the Canadian border south to Lake Chelan.

Last Updated: July 13, 2011 at 14:17 MST