• View from Sourdough Mountain Overlook  A view looking down onto Diablo Lake. Photo Credit: NPS/Michael Silverman, 2010.

    North Cascades

    National Park Washington

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  • State Route 20 closed at Mile Post 134, Ross Dam

    After a brief closure at Newhalem due to an avalanche and unstable conditions, SR 20 has re-opened to its normal winter closure point at MP 134, Ross Dam. The highway will remain closed from Ross Dam to MP 171 (Silver Star Creek) until spring re-opening. More »

  • Ross Dam Haul Road Closure Continues

    A short segment of the Ross Dam Haul Road between the Diablo Lake suspension bridge and the tunnel remains closed to public use due to continued recovery following a March 2010 landslide. The closure will remain in effect through 2014. More »

  • Notice of planned work for the Cascade River Road, fall 2014

    Visitors planning to access the park via the Cascade River Road after Labor Day should be advised that the Park Service is planning a fall closure of this road at Eldorado Creek (3 miles before the end of the road) in order to perform permanent repairs. More »

Climbing Conditions - Pickets

Climbing conditions for peaks in the northern and southern Pickets, including Challenger, Luna, West McMillan, etc, can be found below. For conditions on other climbs, return to Planning a Climb.

Condition reports come from climbing and wilderness rangers, the voluntary climbing register, and other climbers. To make a climbing report, please email the Wilderness Information Center in Marblemount. Please include the route, snow level, any hazards encountered (or not), peak(s) attempted, and whether your party successfully summitted.

All of the climbing routes in the park complex are located in wilderness, but some are wilder than others, and there may be limited or outdated information. Use these reports as a baseline, but plan for changing conditions and a true adventure. On many routes, the discovery, physical stress, and route-finding challenges are half the fun.



Peak/Route Conditions Date Author
Terror Basin/West McMillan Spire

Terror Basin and West McMillan Spire via Goodell Creek Approach -- August 11th 2013

Approach route into Terror Basin is in "standard" condition and completely snow-free until just before the drop into the Terror Basin bivy sites. Decent to the bivy sites is either on very steep (50 deg +) snow or on loose 4th class rock scrambling. Standard bivy area is fully melted out. Terror Glacier appears pretty broken at this point, but groups have successfully climbed Inspiration and W. McMillan Recently. Blueberries getting ripe on approach!

West McMillan Spire – West Ridge: From the glacier up it was all snow climbing until ridge crest on Aug 7th. No snow from there up, just standard N. Cascades scrambling.

08/11/2013 Climbing Ranger

All climbers should bring blue bags for all trips in the alpine and be prepared to use them. Leave the alpine clean for your next climb and for your fellow climbers.

Current road conditions extend the approach distance to access the northern Pickets via Hannegan Pass. For conditions of Hannegan Road (Road 32) in Mount Baker - Snoqualmie National Forest see here.

8/25/2013 Ranger

Email an updated report for routes in the northern or southern Pickets.

Did You Know?

Did You Know?

North Cascades National Park Service Complex includes 684,000 acres near the crest of the Cascade Mountains from the Canadian border south to Lake Chelan.