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North Cascades National Park Service ComplexPicket Range
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North Cascades National Park Service Complex
Climbing Conditions - Pickets

This page provides climbers with the latest conditions for peaks in the northern and southern Pickets, including Challenger, Luna, West McMillan, etc.  For conditions on other climbs, return to Planning a Climb.

Condition reports come from climbing and wilderness rangers, the voluntary climbing register, and other climbers. To make a climbing report, please email the Wilderness Information Center in Marblemount. Please include the route, snow level, any hazards encountered (or not), peak(s) attempted, and whether your party successfully summitted.

All of the climbing routes in the park complex are located in wilderness, but some are wilder than others, and there may be limited or outdated information. Use these reports as a baseline, but plan for changing conditions and a true adventure. On many routes, the discovery, physical stress, and route-finding challenges are half the fun.

 

Pickets

Peak/Route Conditions Report Date Author
Picket Traverse (Whatcom-Challenger-Fury-Terror) Snow and glaciers melted out all along the traverse, making travel slow and dangerous. 8/22/09 Climber
West McMillan Spire Small snow field and steep snow finger & loose rocks to the summit. 8/22/09 Climber
Challenger Bergschrunds on Challenger will be challenging soon.  8/10/09 Climber
West McMillan Spire via Terror Glacier/West Ridge Route finding is challenging after small lake at 5400'. Very little water left at 5200' camp in Terror Basin; the stream is dry but there is still a small snowfield. 8/2/09 Climber
McMillan Cirque Descent gully is ~50% melted out. 7/27/09 Climber
Mt. Challenger (Eiley/Wiley) Glacier in fine shape. Lots of bushwacking! 7/25/09 Climber
Luna Pilot Fire There is a small wildfire burning just up Luna Creek from Big Beaver. The fire is sending up a small amount of smoke. 7/15/09 Ranger
Northern Pickets approach Too much brush up Luna Creek. Don't go that way!! I mean it! 7/8/09 Climber
West McMillan Spire / West Ridge Route Route is easy to follow except for a 1 mile stretch of overgrown brush about 2.5 miles in. Somoe snow on the high traverse. Lots of snow in Terror Basin. 7/3/09 Climber
Whatcom Peak & Challenger Summited Whatcom Peak via its North Ridge route from Whatcom Pass. Route was in great shape with snow on the arete where you'd want it and no snow on the west side of the ridge up high; snow was soft for bucket steps but not slushy; descend ridge towards sister peak and glissade down to Perfect Pass; a high traverse of Challenger Glacier, easily navigating between crevices, to route up from Weiley Ridge (a direct descent to Challenger Glacier from Perfect Pass was impossible due to huge cornices but also not really desirable); fresh goat tracks led across the well covered bergschrund, climbed the Challenger summit block and returned via Weiley/Eiley Lakes, taking the lower route south of the ridge generally around 6000'. 6/29 Climber
McMillan Spires Goodell Creek approach is obscured in snow above 5000'. New snow (2-3 days old) above 7000'. 6/23/09 Climber
Goodell Creek Terror Basin - solid snow at 4000'. Lots of soft slab sluffs on McMillan Peak. 5/25/09 Climber
Email an updated report for routes in the northern or southern Pickets.

Did You Know?  

Did You Know?
North Cascades National Park Service Complex includes 684,000 acres near the crest of the Cascade Mountains from the Canadian border south to Lake Chelan.

Last Updated: August 30, 2009 at 13:09 EST