North Cascades National Park Service Complex - Climbing Conditions - Other Southern Peaks (U.S. National Park Service)

This page provides climbers with the latest conditions for peaks and routes south of State Route 20, including Logan, Goode, Black, Ragged Ridge, etc. (except climbs in Boston Basin, Cascade Pass area, Eldorado, and in the Colonial - Pyramid area). For conditions on climbs other than those listed here, return to Planning a Climb.

Condition reports come from climbing and wilderness rangers, the voluntary climbing register, and other climbers. To make a climbing report, please email the Wilderness Information Center in Marblemount. Please include the route, snow level, any hazards encountered (or not), peak(s) attempted, and whether your party successfully summitted.

All of the climbing routes in the park complex are located in wilderness, but some are wilder than others, and there may be limited or outdated information. Use these reports as a baseline, but plan for changing conditions and a true adventure. On many routes, the discovery, physical stress, and route-finding challenges are half the fun.

Other Routes and Peaks South of State Route 20

Peak / Route	Conditions Report	Date	Author
Black Peak via Wing Lake	Some large snow fields remain on ascent to ridge from Wing Lake, otherwise entire route is snow-free	8/12/08	Ranger
Mt. Logan via Fremont Glacier	1"-3" of new snow. No crevasses visible on Fremont Glacier.	8/10/08	Visitor
Mt. Logan via Fremont Glacier	Mostly snowfree except some patches below glacier. Snow very hard in morning shade. Glacier in excellent condition, no crevasses seen. Final tip of snow ramp breaking away, but can by-pass to east to get on rock. Upper snowfield, high on east flank below summit, soft enough for boots/axe (no crampons) by late a.m.	7/21/08	Visitor
Buckner, N Face	Excellent neve and snow conditions. Schrund easily passed on left. Snow leads to rock midway, then snow again. Climbed from Sahale Glacier Camp in 13.5 hours round-trip. Pickets and rock gear useful. No ice anywhere on route.	7/13	Visitor
Backbone Ridge w/ Perdition Peak	Tons of snow above 4800'.	7/9/08	Visitor
Black Peak via Wing Lake	Snow from Horsefly Pass to Wing Lake. Nice snow to pass on ridge, no snow on route above pass.	7/7/08	Visitor
Mt. Logan	Banded Glacier almost snow free in middle section, many crevasses exposed. Difficult crossing of outlet creek of lake at 5100'.	7/7/08	Visitor
Ruby Mtn. via 4th of July	Good conditions, snow starts at ~3800'.	6/30/08	Visitor
Mt. Logan / Fremont Glacier	Lots of water on the approach. Glacier in great shape, hardly any crevasses. Crampons recommended. A picket could be useful to protect move from glacier to rock. First 70' is Class 4 scramble, without any really good placements for pro. From ridge to summit scramble is easy and straightforward. Downclimb back to the glacier.	8/28	Ranger
Mt. Logan / Fremont Glacier	Small moat between glacier and rock is a challenge but doable. Crevasses are narrow and glacier travel was easy. Moat is 50' of low class 5, gear recommended.	8/10	Visitor
Mt. Logan / Fremont Glacier	Successful climb, snow still present on most of steep slope that goes up to 8000' before reaching glacier. Choose between climbing the slope on snow or on rock. Glacier has soft, suncupped snow, no significant crevasses. A few small patches of ice exist, but are easily avoided. Crampons not necessary unless climbing very early.	8/1	Visitor
Black Peak / NE Ridge	Snow melting out. Did a bit of moat diving up high. Snow soft and easy on south side.	7/17	Visitor
Black Peak/ NE Ridge	NE Ridge has lots of snow, should melt out soon. Wing Lake 100% snow covered.	6/3	Visitor
	No recent reports	2/8	Ranger

Email an updated report for any routes or peaks south of State Route 20. Please specify the area in your report.