This page provides climbers with the latest conditions for peaks in the immediate area of Eldorado Peak. For conditions on other climbs, return to Planning a Climb.

Condition reports come from climbing and wilderness rangers, the voluntary climbing register, and other climbers. To make a climbing report, please email the Wilderness Information Center in Marblemount. Please include the route, snow level, any hazards encountered (or not), peak(s) attempted, and whether your party successfully summitted.

All of the climbing routes in the park complex are located in wilderness, but some are wilder than others, and there may be limited or outdated information. Use these reports as a baseline, but plan for changing conditions and a true adventure. On many routes, the discovery, physical stress, and route-finding challenges are half the fun.

Eldorado Peak

Conditions Report	Date	Author
Route is snowfree to Eldorado Glacier. Running water on approach begins at 5100'(at top of upper boulder field). Eldorado Glacier is showing some large crevasses, roping up is highly recommended. Crampons required in morning. Many snowfree bivy sites at base of east ridge. The summit snow ridge is becoming very sharp. A picket or two can be used to protect on the ridge.	8/22/09	Ranger
Early Morning Spire: easy to access base of route from Dorado Col. Final moat after 2nd rap is very difficult to cross.	8/21/09	Climber
West Arrete Route: Be quick crossing under the glacier on the approach to the route-lots of large rock and ice fall. This route is very long, frequently loose, and not to be underestimated.	8/21/09	Climber
Some small crevasses opening on Eldorado Glacier. About mid-way up the east ridge a large crevasse is opening. There was a snowbridge and also a step-across spot, but this will deteriorate soon. Those wanting to gain the summit later will need to gain the rock lower on the ridge and scramble to the snow just below the summit ridge.	8/17/09	Ranger
Low bivy areas melted out. Glacier snow very sloppy. Many, many biting flies on the approach.	8/3/09	Climber
East ridge route in good shape all the way to summit.	7/16/09	Climber
Eldorado to Colonial Creek - Eldo Glacier mostly closed, Dorado Needle/McAllister opening but still good. Klawatti SE camp snow covered. Klawatti south face good shape. Klawatti Glacier closed. Lucky Pass half snow covered and has running water. Borealis Glacier very icy. A route against Tricouni west side goes class 4+ loose around some gullies. another option is to traverse along the north slope of Primus and angle back west of main icy parts and then down.	7/14/09	Climber
Eldorado and Inspiration glaciers still snow covered and in good shape. Summit snow ridge still in good condition. Bivy sites at 7200' melted out; bivy areas on both sides of Eldo Ridge (between Eldo and Rousch creeks) still under snow. Snow begins at top of approach path tread. Tread on upper sections very wet & muddy - be careful on descent. Still some snow on Eldorado Ridge but better camping elsewhere. Remember to camp on snow, rock or bare ground. As always, please use blue bags and pack out your trash.	7/12/09	Ranger
East Ridge & Dorado Needle: Snow begins just as trail breaks into basin above talus fields, solid snow from that point on. East ridge bivy sites melted out. Large crevasses are starting to melt out on Inspiration Glacier--be wary of snow bridges! East Ridge route in good condition. Dorado Needle northwest ridge also in good condition, solid snow ramp up to ridge, no moat.	7/1/09	Ranger
Route was good. Final ridge was corniced, so did not gain the summit.	6/24/09	Climber
Continuous snow from 5200'. All bootpacks to ridge between Eldorado and Rousch basins go too high. Good conditions on knife edge.	6/20/09	Climber
NW Couloir - Couloir is probably done for the season. Lower water ice section is slush and falling. Good rock gear for belays, screws no longer useful. Snow very soft at 10am.	6/4/09	Climber
Crossing at Cascade River in good shape. Be wary of wet logs during high water. Snow starts on boulder field at about 4500'. Use caution in route finding and foot placement. Snow near and above treeline is very wet and slushy. Travel on established boot pack to avoid lots of postholing. Skis or snowshoes recommended. Skiing was challenging in the glop!	5/30/09	Ranger
East Ridge - Route is snow free and in good shape until beginning of second boulder field at about 4000', then solid snow. Be wary of soft snow and wet slides on steep slopes approaching Eldorado Glacier. All bivy sites are still under snow although East Ridge bivy sites are beginning to melt out. East Ridge route in good shape with no open crevasses. Small cornice along knife edge is easily avoidable. Remember to bring blue bags and pack them out.	5/25/09	Ranger

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