North Cascades National Park Service Complex - Climbing Conditions

Two climbers on the snow crest of Eldorado.

Erin McKay

Climbers on the narrow snow crest of Eldorado summit.

This page provides climbers with the latest conditions for peaks in the immediate area of Eldorado Peak. For conditions on other climbs, return to Planning a Climb.

Condition reports come from climbing and wilderness rangers, the voluntary climbing register, and other climbers. To make a climbing report, please email the Wilderness Information Center in Marblemount. Please include the route, snow level, any hazards encountered (or not), peak(s) attempted, and whether your party successfully summitted.

All of the climbing routes in the park complex are located in wilderness, but some are wilder than others, and there may be limited or outdated information. Use these reports as a baseline, but plan for changing conditions and a true adventure. On many routes, the discovery, physical stress, and route-finding challenges are half the fun.

Eldorado Peak

Conditions Report	Date	Author
East Ridge & Dorado Needle: Snow begins just as trail breaks into basin above talus fields, solid snow from that point on. East ridge bivy sites melted out. Large crevasses are starting to melt out on Inspiration Glacier--be wary of snow bridges! East Ridge route in good condition. Dorado Needle northwest ridge also in good condition, solid snow ramp up to ridge, no moat.	7/1/09	Ranger
Route was good. Final ridge was corniced, so did not gain the summit.	6/24/09	Climber
Continuous snow from 5200'. All bootpacks to ridge between Eldorado and Rousch basins go too high. Good conditions on knife edge.	6/20/09	Climber
NW Couloir - Couloir is probably done for the season. Lower water ice section is slush and falling. Good rock gear for belays, screws no longer useful. Snow very soft at 10am.	6/4/09	Climber
Crossing at Cascade River in good shape. Be wary of wet logs during high water. Snow starts on boulder field at about 4500'. Use caution in route finding and foot placement. Snow near and above treeline is very wet and slushy. Travel on established boot pack to avoid lots of postholing. Skis or snowshoes recommended. Skiing was challenging in the glop!	5/30/09	Ranger
East Ridge - Route is snow free and in good shape until beginning of second boulder field at about 4000', then solid snow. Be wary of soft snow and wet slides on steep slopes approaching Eldorado Glacier. All bivy sites are still under snow although East Ridge bivy sites are beginning to melt out. East Ridge route in good shape with no open crevasses. Small cornice along knife edge is easily avoidable. Remember to bring blue bags and pack them out.	5/25/09	Ranger

Email an updated report for this route.