North Cascades National Park Complex - Climbing Conditions - Eldorado (U.S. National Park Service)

Two climbers on the snow crest of Eldorado.

Erin McKay

Climbers on the narrow snow crest of Eldorado summit.

COMPOSTING TOILET INSTALLED AT BASE OF EAST RIDGE IN SEPTEMBER 2009

This page provides climbers with the latest conditions for peaks in the immediate area of Eldorado Peak. For conditions on other climbs, return to Planning a Climb.

Condition reports come from climbing and wilderness rangers, the voluntary climbing register, and other climbers. To make a climbing report, please email the Wilderness Information Center in Marblemount. Please include the route, snow level, any hazards encountered (or not), peak(s) attempted, and whether your party successfully summitted.

All of the climbing routes in the park complex are located in wilderness, but some are wilder than others, and there may be limited or outdated information. Use these reports as a baseline, but plan for changing conditions and a true adventure. On many routes, the discovery, physical stress, and route-finding challenges are half the fun.

Eldorado Peak

Conditions Report	Date	Author
East Ridge: Creek crossing by road no problem. Snow begins near top of second boulder field- beware of soft punchy snow and postholing through boulders! Ridge crossing from Eldorado basin to Roush creek drainage involves navigating moats and class 3 rock scramble. No open crevasses. Bivy sites at the base of the east ridge melted out and composting toilet is in operation. Summit ridge in great shape. Good skiing conditions.	7/10/11	Ranger
Snow on west Arrete very warm and wet; snow never froze for 5 days.	6/29/11	Climber
1/2 inch of new snow overnight. Lower talus slope is snow-free. Snow begins at ~4200'. Composting toilet melted out. Route in great shape.	6/26/11	Climber
Lower boulder field on approach route still covered with thinning snow. Lots of punching through--BE CAREFUL. Upper boulder field still fully snow covered. Snow is generally wet and slushy during the day. Some dangerous looking slabs (unknown location). Summitted in early a.m. (2:30am start) and able to summit with great crampon conditions.	6/4/2011	Climber
Bring snowshoes, as snow is soft up high. Overnight rain melted more snow on lower boulder field. Beware of falling through to the rock! Camped at 7400', toe of Eldorado Glacier. Fresh 1" snow overnight at camp.	5/29/11	Climber
Snow starts just below lower boulder field on the approach up Eldorado Creek. Snow is soft and post-holey. Proceed with caution!	5/28/11	Ranger
Snow starts at lower boulder field. Deep, soft snow all the way to the col on Roush Creek divide. Very little avalanche hazard on the divide, and most appear to be wet slides. East ridge in excellent condition and summit snow arete in good shape.	5/23/11	Climber
See below for 2010 Conditions
Dorado Needle Crevasse navigation required on Inspiration & McAllister Glaciers; McAllister Glacier requires careful navigation. Snow finger leading up to the ridge is beginning to melt out - use caution crossing the moat under hanging snow. NW ridge is in great shape.	8/18/10	Ranger
Still no significant crevasses on the toe of Eldorado Glacier	8/18/10	Ranger
NE face: soft snow, minimal ice, easy to pass the bergschrund on the right.	8/15/10	Visitor
Ridge between Eldorado & Rousch Basin is snow-free--no camping allowed on the ridge.	8/15/10	Ranger
East Ridge: still reported in excellent condition. NE Ridge: soft snow, minimal ice, easily ablto to pass bergschrund on the right.	8/15/10	Visitor
Snow wet in afternoon. Not many crevasses open on Eldorado Glacier, some moats/crevasses along rock ridge below East ridge. No running water at High Camp (7400')	8/8/10	Visitor
COMPOSTING TOILET INSTALLED AT BASE OF EAST RIDGE SEPTEMBER 2009

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