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North Cascades National Park Complex Climbers on the Cache Glacier
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North Cascades National Park Complex
Climbing Conditions - Cascade Pass Area
Climber on steep snow of Buckner.

Erik Siehl

Climbers negotiate steep snow on the north face of Buckner.

This page provides climbers with the latest conditions for peaks in the greater Cascade Pass area, including Sahale via Sahale Arm, Buckner, Johannesburg, and the Ptarmigan Traverse. For conditions on other climbs, return to Planning a Climb.

Condition reports come from climbing and wilderness rangers, the voluntary climbing register, and other climbers. To make a climbing report, please email the Wilderness Information Center in Marblemount. Please include the route, snow level, any hazards encountered (or not), peak(s) attempted, and whether your party successfully summitted.

All of the climbing routes in the park complex are located in wilderness, but some are wilder than others, and there may be limited or outdated information. Use these reports as a baseline, but plan for changing conditions and a true adventure. On many routes, the discovery, physical stress, and route-finding challenges are half the fun.

 

Cascade Pass Area Routes: Buckner, Sahale via Sahale Glacier, Johannesburg, Ptarmigan Traverse, etc.

Peak / Route Conditions Report Date Author
Sahale & all other area summits A black bear was observed at the lower bivy site in Boston Basin and seven bears were observed around Sahale Glacier Camp (7600'). Bears have been observed on glaciers in the past. Proper food storage is required for all visitors in the backcountry, including climbers. Leaving food in a tent is not proper food storage. Rangers will be checking and enforcing this regulation at Sahale Glacier Camp and all other areas of the Park. Ask Rangers for advice regarding food storage when acquiring a permit for your climb. 8/21/10 Ranger
Ptarmigan Traverse Access to Red Ledge has a detached snow block in gully. Some parties are backing off. Probably better for conservative climbers to wait a week or so. 8/21/10 Climber
Ptarmigan Traverse In great condition. More snow than normal. Red ledges were easy to get through, while the windfall south of Cub Lake was very difficult. Rockfall observed on the Dana Glacier. 8/9/10 Climber
Ptarmigan Traverse Cache Col has bootpack over the cornice. Lots of snow at Kool-aid, but at least two camps are bare. The snow bridge over the bergschrund to get onto the red ledges is getting sketchy and may be close to collapse. Lots of loose on the class 4 route up to LeConte. 7/31/10 Climber
Buckner N. Face  Soft snow, good conditions. 7/10/10 Climber
Buckner N. Face Constant snow travel from 4500'. Traverse from Sahale to Boston Peak is heavily corniced with multiple slab and cornice fractures. Required a rappel to get on the traverse. Turned back before reaching Boston due to conditions. 6/26/10 Climber
Johannesburg Many avalanche cycles reported from party at Boston Basin 5/26/2010 Climber
Email an updated report for any routes or peaks in this area: Buckner, Sahale via Sahale Glacier, Johannesburg, Ptarmigan Traverse, etc.

 

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Cascading stream

Did You Know?
The North Cascades are well known for the abundant waterfalls that lace the mountains. Two of the best known waterfalls are Gorge Falls between Newhalem and Diablo along State Route 20 and Rainbow Falls in the Stehekin Valley.

Last Updated: August 24, 2010 at 15:55 MST