This page provides climbers with the latest conditions for climbs in the Boston Basin area, including Forbidden, Sharkfin, and Sahale via the Quien Sabe Glacer.  For conditions on other climbs, return to Planning a Climb.

Condition reports come from climbing and wilderness rangers, the voluntary climbing register, and other climbers. To make a climbing report, please email the Wilderness Information Center in Marblemount. Please include the route, snow level, any hazards encountered (or not), peak(s) attempted, and whether your party successfully summitted.

All of the climbing routes in the park complex are located in wilderness, but some are wilder than others, and there may be limited or outdated information. Use these reports as a baseline, but plan for changing conditions and a true adventure. On many routes, the discovery, physical stress, and route-finding challenges are half the fun.

Boston Basin Area Routes: Forbidden, Sahale via Quien Sabe, Sharkfin, etc.

Peak / Route	Conditions Report	Date	Author
Boston Basin	Route into basin is mostly dry and dusty. Snow patches in Boston Basin below the glaciers. Midas and Morning Star creeks are easy to cross, but Boston Creek is not; crossing early in the morning is recommended. Both the lower and the upper composting toilets are open for use. Climbers should always bring along at least one blue bag just in case. Couloir used to access the start of the west ridge on Forbidden is still being used by climbers, but is starting to look thin and dicey. The ridge itself is in good shape. The Quien Sabe glacier has good snow cover. Some crevasses are opening up but the glacier is still not too difficult to navigate.	8/21/11	Ranger
Boston Basin	Stream crossings all easy or covered in snow. Lower and upper bivy sites under snow and composting toilets are not melted out- use blue bags. Water can be found ~15 minutes above the upper bivy sites. East Ridge Direct: good snow to access ridge, ridge is snow free and dry. West Ridge: snow free and dry, west ridge couloir is all snow from glacier to ridge, no bergschrund problems. Sahale: no crevasse or bergschrund problems on the Quien Sabe glacier, all snow to the summit.	7/10/11	Climber
Boston Basin	Snow starts at blowdown sections on approach, ~4000'. Solid snow after last avalanche path. Midas creek crossing still has solid snow, but starting to melt- cross with caution. The basin is 100% snow covered, bivy sites and composting toilet not melted out.  W. ridge Forbidden and Sharkfin couloirs full of snow and in good shape, though some snow still remains on rock routes. Quein Sabe glacier in good shape with no crevasses melted out yet. Summit of Sahale still snow and rime covered, no rappel slings visible.	6/26/11	Ranger
Boston Basin Lower & Upper Bivy Sites	A black bear was observed at the lower bivy site and seven bears were observed around Sahale Glacier Camp (7600'). Bears have been observed on glaciers in the past. Proper food storage is required for all visitors in the backcountry, including climbers. Leaving food in a tent is not proper food storage. Rangers will be checking and enforcing this regulation in Boston Basin and all other areas of the Park. Ask Rangers for advice regarding food storage when acquiring a permit for your climb.	8/21/10	Ranger

Email an updated report for any routes or peaks in this area: Forbidden, Sahale via Quien Sabe, Sharkfin, etc.