This page provides climbers with the latest conditions for climbs in the Boston Basin area, including Forbidden, Sharkfin, and Sahale via the Quien Sabe Glacer.  For conditions on other climbs, return to Planning a Climb.

Condition reports come from climbing and wilderness rangers, the voluntary climbing register, and other climbers. To make a climbing report, please email the Wilderness Information Center in Marblemount. Please include the route, snow level, any hazards encountered (or not), peak(s) attempted, and whether your party successfully summitted.

All of the climbing routes in the park complex are located in wilderness, but some are wilder than others, and there may be limited or outdated information. Use these reports as a baseline, but plan for changing conditions and a true adventure. On many routes, the discovery, physical stress, and route-finding challenges are half the fun.

Boston Basin Area Routes: Forbidden, Sahale via Quien Sabe, Sharkfin, etc.

Peak / Route	Conditions Report	Date	Author
Sahale via Quien Sabe	One snow bridge remains on upper part of glacier, but won't be around much longer.  Once it is gone, the route will require a very long end run around the crevasse.	8/27/09	Ranger
Sharkfin	Expect loose rock.  Groups are using both the direct approach gully and the gully below Sharkfin Col.	8/27/09	Ranger
Forbidden East Ridge	Approach can be done completely snow-free.	8/27/09	Ranger
Forbidden West Ridge	The couloir approach is melted out.  Use the gully climber's left of the couloir for ascent & descent.	8/27/09	Ranger
Forbidden West Ridge	West gully melted out.  Not recommended.	8/23/09	Climber
Sharkfin Tower	Approach gully to Sharkfin is completely melted out. May be possible to approach via Sharkfin Col and traverse under the Tower to reach the route.	8/16/09	Ranger
Sahale via Quien Sabe	Quien Sabe Glacier is fairly crevassed. Large bergschrund on steep section of glacier was crossed by a thin snow bridge that may not last much longer. Could probably be by-passed by a long leftward traverse if need be. Route otherwise in fair condition.	8/16/09	Ranger
Torment/Forbidden traverse	Must use rock to pass bergschrund on SE face of Torment (schrund is melted out). Glacial bypass of ridge was alpine ice for 400'.	8/2/09	Visitor
Forbidden - West Ridge	Snow in couloir is getting dicey but stil do-able. Watch for ice patches, thin spots and cracks opening up. Climb snow to within 100 vertical feet of the notch where a manky scramble begins. Climbers should try to descend the couloir in the west gullies - find rap stations over a snow arete to climbers left (saves some hassle). Both upper and lower composters in Boston Basin are melted out. Bivy sites in high camp are mostly under snow, some are melted out in low camp.	7/12/09	Ranger
Sharkfin	Approach gully has large moat, difficult to cross--5.7 to 5.8 rock climbing required to get around moat. Snow ramp near Sharkfin Col still present and can be used as an alternative, but involves steep, exposed traverse. Otherwise, route in good condition.	7/5/09	Ranger
East Ridge Forbidden	Approach gully still mostly snow, but melting quickly. Route in great condition.	7/5/09	Ranger
West Ridge Forbidden	Snow gully still in good condition.	7/5/09	Ranger
General Boston Basin Conditions	Approach route into Basin brushy in lower sections, still avalanche debris over trail in middle sections. Route in upper Basin mostly snowfree, beware snow bridges over Boston Creek--will probably melt out soon and creek crossings will be high. Both Upper and Lower composting toilets melted out.	7/5/09	Ranger
General Conditions	Approach route to treeline snowfree. Two new sections with winter's avy debris. Lower toilet melted out, upper toilet still under snow. Route from low camp to high camp mostly snowfree except last traverse.	6/28/09	Ranger
West Ridge Forbidden	Gully is mostly snowbound. Ridge free of snow.	6/28/09	Climber
Torment-Forbidden Traverse	Snowy on Torment - bailed. Taboo Glacier in great shape.	6/27/09	Climber
East Ridge Direct	Snow at upper camp. Snow-filled couloir to about 1 pitch below notch on West Ridge. Some snow on ridge.	6/27/09	Climber
General Conditions	Torment bergschrund still crossable, route in good condition. Sahale via Quien Sabe also in good condition. Snow starts just as trail exits forest, lots of snow in basin still. Lower composting toilet melted out!	6/19/09	Ranger
Forbidden - West Ridge	Approach is good - stayed on snow instead of following summer trail. Things have firmed up, punching only as deep boot top in late afternoon. Early morning snow to and through gully was soft but manageable. Route in good shape slthough there is still a lot of unconsolidated/wet snow on ridge.	6/4/09	Climber
Boston Basin	Route has patchy snow until about 4600', where route is lost under snow and avy debris.	6/2/09	Ranger
Torment-Forbidden Traverse	Lots of soft snow on approach. Postholing from first creek crossing.	6/2/09	Climber
Forbidden - West Ridge	Deep slush, nasty postholing. Lots of slush in gully after 10am. Bailed	5/30/09	Climber
ALL	Cascade River Road closed at mile 20 (Eldorado Creek) for bridge repairs and avalanche debris.	5/23/09	Ranger

Email an updated report for any routes or peaks in this area: Forbidden, Sahale via Quien Sabe, Sharkfin, etc.