Information
on the Yakima and Walla Walla Indians
Recorded by Members of the Lewis and Clark Expedition
1805-1806
The following excerpts from
the journals of Lewis and Clark and their men present a picture
of the Yakima and other tribal groups, including the Walla Walla,
from the upper Columbia River basin as the Anglo-Americans saw
them. The modern reader must be careful to understand that what
these white men saw and recorded was not necessarily correct from
the Indian perspective.
The following passages have
been freely adapted and excerpted from the original texts, and
the spelling has been corrected to make them easier to read. For
students wishing to quote these passages, the Journals of the
Lewis and Clark Expedition, edited by Gary Moulton and published
by the University of Nebraska Press, is the recommended source.
For those who wish more in-depth information about Lewis and Clark's
relations with various Indian tribes, including background from
the Indian perspective, the best book is James P. Ronda's Lewis
and Clark among the Indians. Lincoln: University of Nebraska
Press, 1984. The very best way to obtain accurate information
from the tribal perspective is to contact tribal councils for
individual tribes - in other words, to consult the people themselves.
The Indians being described
in the following passages were the Yakima and Wanapam Indians.
The former lived in the immediate vicinity of the Snake-Columbia
fork, with the latter nearby. Also nearby were the Walulas (Walla
Wallas), Umatillas, and Palouses. All spoke languages of the Shahaptian
family, and members of some or all of these tribes may also have
been seen and described by the explorers.
Contact Information:
Confederated Tribes of the Umatilla:
www.umatilla.nsn.us/main.html
Chairperson, Umatilla Board of Trustees
P.O. Box 638
Pendleton, Oregon 97801-0638
*****
Journal Excerpts:
[Clark]
Oct. 16th (Monday) 1805 Wednesday
Five Indians came up the river in great haste. We smoked with
them and gave them a piece of tobacco to smoke with their people
and sent them back. They set out in a run & continued to go
as fast as they could run as far as we could see them. We halted
above the point on the river Kimooenim to smoke with the Indians
who had collected there in great numbers to view us. Here we met
our 2 Chiefs who left us two days ago and proceeded on to this
place to inform those bands of our approach and friendly intentions
towards all nations &c. We also met the 2 men who had passed
us several days ago on horseback. One of them we observed was
a man of great influence with those Indians, harangued them. After
smoking with the Indians who had collected to view us we formed
a camp at the point, near which place I saw a few pieces of driftwood.
After we had our camp fixed and fires made, a Chief came from
their camp which was about ¼ of a mile up the Columbia
River at the head of about 200 men, singing and beating on their
drums stick and keeping time to the music. They formed a half
circle around us and sung for some time. We gave them all smoke,
and spoke to their Chiefs as well as we could by signs, informing
them of our friendly disposition to all nations, and our joy in
seeing those of our children around us. Gave the principal chief
a large medal, shirt and handkerchief. A 2nd Chief a medal of
small size, and to the Chief who came down from the upper villages
a small medal & handkerchief. The Chiefs then returned with
the men to their camp. Soon after we purchased for our provisions
seven dogs. Some few of those people made us presents of fish
and several returned and delayed with us until bedtime. The 2
old Chiefs who accompanied us from the head of the river procured
us some fuel such as the stalks of weed or plant and willow bushes.
One man made me a present of about 20 pounds of very fat dried
horsemeat. Great quantities of a kind of prickly pears, much worse
than any I have before seen, of a tapering form and attach themselves
by bunches. This morning after the lunar observations, the old
chief and several men with dogs to sell & women with fish
&c. The dogs we purchased, the fish not good. An Indian showed
me the mouth of the river which falls in below a high hill on
the larboard N. 80' W. 8 miles from the island. Those Indians
are orderly, badly dressed in the same fashions of those above,
except the women, who wore short shirts and a flap over them.
22 fishing houses of mats, robes of deer, goat & beaver.
[Ordway]
Wednesday 16th Oct. 1805
About 200 savages are camped on the point between the 2 rivers.
We camped near them. They sold us eight fat dogs and some fresh
salmon. In the evening the whole band came singing in their way
to our camp around our fires and smoked with us, and appeared
very friendly. They have plenty of beads, copper & brass trinkets,
about them which they sign to us that they got them from some
traders on a river to the north of this place.
[Whitehouse]
Wednesday October 16th
We found upwards of 200 Indians that were encamped on a point
of land that lay between these two rivers in a very pleasant situated
place. We encamped near those Indians on the same point of land.
These natives came to our encampment & sold us 8 dogs &
some fresh salmon. This whole band of Indians came in a body,
singing in their manner to our fires, smoked with us, & appeared
friendly. These Indians had beads and small pieces of brass &
copper hanging about them, which they made signs to us that they
got them from white people who live on a river lying to the north
of this place, & that they also got some of them at the mouth
of this river. We passed several islands this day & came 26
miles, the course with us is the same as yesterday.
[Clark]
October 17th Thursday 1805
Made the above observations, during which time the principal Chief
came down with several of his principal men and smoked with us.
Several men and women offered dogs and fish to sell. We purchased
all the dogs we could, the fish being out of season and dying
in great numbers in the river, we did not think proper to use
them. Capt. Lewis took a vocabulary of the language of those people
who call themselves So kulk, and also one of the language of a
nation residing on a westerly fork of the Columbia which mouths
a few miles above this place who call themselves Chim na pum.
Some few of this nation reside with the So kulks nation. Their
language differs but little from either the Sokulks or the Cho-pun-nish
(or pierced nose) [Nez Perce] nation which inhabit the Kooskooskia
river and Lewis's River below. I took two men in a small canoe
and ascended the Columbia River 10 miles to an island near the
starboard shore on which two large mat lodges of Indians were
drying salmon, (as they informed me by signs for the purpose of
food and fuel, & I do not think at all improbable that those
people make use of dried fish as fuel). The number of dead salmon
on the shores & floating in the river is incredible to see,
and at this season they have only to collect the fish, split them
open and dry them on their scaffolds on which they have great
numbers. How far they have to raft their timber they make their
scaffolds of I could not learn; but there is no timber of any
sort except small willow bushes in sight in any direction from
this island. The natives showed me the entrance of a large westerly
fork which they call Tapetett at about 8 miles distant. Great
numbers of Indians on the banks viewing me and 18 canoes accompanied
me from the point. Passed three large lodges on the starboard
side, near which great number of salmon was drying on scaffolds.
One of those mat lodges I entered, found it crowded with men,
women and children, and near the entrance of those houses I saw
many squaws engaged splitting and drying salmon. I was furnished
with a mat to sit on, and one man set about preparing me something
to eat. First he brought in a piece of a drift log of pine and
with a wedge of the elk's horn, and a mallet of stone curiously
carved. He split the log into small pieces and laid it open on
the fire, on which he put round stones. A woman handed him a basket
of water and a large salmon about half dried. When the stones
were hot he put them into the basket of water with the fish, which
was soon sufficiently boiled for use. It was then taken out, put
on a platter of rushes neatly made, and set before me. They boiled
a salmon for each of the men with me. During those preparations
I smoked with those about me who chose to smoke, which was but
few, this being a custom those people are but little accustomed
to and only smoke through form. After eating the boiled fish,
which was delicious, I set out & halted or came to on the
island at the two lodges. Several fish was given to me, in return
for which I gave small pieces of ribbon from those lodges. On
my return I was followed by 3 canoes in which there was 20 Indians.
I shot a large prairie cock, several grouse, ducks and fish. On
my return found great numbers of the natives with Capt. Lewis,
men all employed in dressing their skins, mending their clothes
and putting their arms in the best order, the latter being always
a matter of attention with us. The dress of those natives differ
but little from those on the Kooskooskia and Lewis's rivers, except
the women who dress very different inasmuch as those above wear
long leather shirts which [are] highly ornamented with beads,
shells &c. &c. and those on the main Columbia River only
wear a truss or piece of leather tied around them at their hips
and drawn tight between their legs and fastened before so as barely
to hide those parts which are so sacredly hid & secured by
our women. Those women are more inclined to corpulence than any
we have yet seen, with low stature, broad faces, heads flattened
(the eyes back) and the forehead compressed so as to form a straight
line from the nose to the crown of the head. Their eyes are of
a dusky black, their hair of a coarse black without ornaments
of any kind, braided as above.
The ornaments of each sex are similar, such as large blue &
white beads, either pendant from their ears or encircling their
necks, or wrists & arms. They also wear bracelets of brass,
copper & horn, and trinkets of shells, fishbones and curious
feathers. Their (dress are as follows viz: garments consists of
a short shirt of leather and a robe of the skins of deer or the
antelope, but few of them wear shirts, all have short robes. Those
people appear to live in a state of comparative happiness. They
take a greater share labor of the woman than is common among savage
tribes, and as I am informed content with one wife (as also those
on the Ki moo ne nim River). Those people respect the aged with
veneration. I observed an old woman in one of the lodges which
I entered. She was entirely blind [and] as I was informed by signs
had lived more than 100 winters. She occupied the best position
in the house, and when she spoke great attention was paid to what
she said. Those people, as also those of the Flatheads which we
had passed on the Kookooske and Lewis's Rivers are subject to
sore eyes, and many are blind of one and some of both eyes. This
misfortune must be owing to the reflections of the sun &c.
on the waters in which they are continually fishing during the
spring, summer & fall, & the snows during the winter seasons
in this open country where the eye has no rest. I have observed
amongst those, as well in all other tribes which I have passed
on these waters who live on fish, many of different sects who
have lost their teeth (quit) about middle age. Some have their
teeth worn to the gums, particularly those of the upper jaws,
and the tribes generally have bad teeth. The cause of it I cannot
account. Sand attached to the roots &c. The method they have
of using the dried salmon, which is merely warming it and eating
the rind & scales with the flesh of the fish, no doubt contributes
to it. The houses or lodges of the tribes of the main Columbia
River is of large mats made of rushes. Those houses are from 15
to 60 feet in length, generally of an oblong square form supported
by poles on forks in the inner side, six feet high. The top is
covered also with mats leaving a separation in the whole length
of about 12 or 15 inches wide, left for the purpose of admitting
light and for the smoke of the fire to pass, which is made in
the middle of the house. The roofs are nearly flat, which proves
to me that rains are not common in this open country. Those people
appear of a mild disposition and friendly disposed. They have
in their huts independent of their nets, gigs & fishing tackle
each bows & large quivers of arrows on which they use flint
spikes. Their amusements are similar to those of the Missouri.
They are not beggarly and receive what is given them with much
joy. I saw but few horses; they appeared make but little use of
those animals, principally using canoes for their uses of procuring
food &c. [Clark described a custom of flattening the head
common among Columbia and Northwest Coast peoples. They put infants
in a special cradleboard with an angled board compressing the
forehead. Many whites applied the term "flathead" to
these Indians, although they reserved the term for tribes in the
interior who left their heads naturally "flat" on top.
The deformed head shape was considered a mark of distinction,
beauty, and superior status].
[Ordway]
Thursday 17th Oct. 1805.
These savages are very poor but peaceable. Some of them naked
and some have dressed elk and deerskins with the hair on. Some
few rabbit skins also. They have a number of horses among them.
Their graveyards are picketed in, and the place about these forks
is very pleasant and smooth &c.
[Clark]
October 18th (Wednesday) Friday 1805
The Great Chief Cuts-Sah nim gave me a sketch of the rivers &
tribes above on the great river & its waters, on which he
put great numbers of villages of his nation & friends, as
noted on the sketch.
[Clark]
October 19th Saturday 1805
The great chief Yel-lep-pit, two other chiefs, and a Chief of
Band below presented themselves to us very early this morning.
We smoked with them, informed them as we had all others above
as well as we could by signs of our friendly intentions towards
our red children, particularly those who opened their ears to
our councils. We gave a medal, a handkerchief & a string of
wampum to Yelleppit and a string of wampum to each of the others.
Yelleppit is a bold, handsome Indian, with a dignified countenance,
about 35 years of age, about 5 feet 8 inches high and well proportioned.
He requested us to delay until the middle of the day, that his
people might come down and see us. We excused ourselves and promised
to stay with him one or 2 days on our return, which appeared to
satisfy him. Great numbers of Indians came down in canoes to view
us before we set out, which was not until 9 o'clock A.M. A short
distance below passed two islands; one near the middle of the
river on which is seven lodges of Indians drying fish. At our
approach they hid themselves in their lodges and not one was to
be seen until we passed. They then came out in greater numbers
than is common in lodges of their size. It is probable that the
inhabitants of the 5 lodges above had in a fright left their lodges
and descended to this place to defend themselves if attacked,
there being a bad rapid opposite the island through which we had
to pass. The entrance or doors of the lodges were shut with the
same materials of which they were built, a mat. I approached one
with a pipe in my hand, entered a lodge which was the nearest
to me, found 32 persons men, women and a few children setting
promiscuously in the lodge, (some) in the greatest agitation,
some crying and wringing their hands, others hanging their heads.
I gave my hand to them all and made signs of my friendly disposition
and offered the men my pipe to smoke and distributed a few small
articles which I had in my pockets. This measure pacified those
distressed people very much. I then sent one man into each lodge
and entered a second myself, the inhabitants of which I found
more frightened than those of the first lodge. I distributed sundry
small articles amongst them, and smoked with the men. I then entered
the third, 4th & fifth lodge, which I found somewhat pacified,
the three men, Drewyer, Joseph & Reubin Field having used
every means in their power to convince them of our friendly disposition
to them. I then (formed) set myself on a rock and made signs to
the men to come and smoke with me. Not one came out until the
canoes arrived with (some five came out of each lodge and set
by me and smoked. This time Capt. Lewis came down with the canoes
rear in which the Indian, as soon as they saw the squaw wife of
the interpreter's (wife) [Sacagawea] they pointed to her and informed
those who continued yet in the same position I first found them.
They immediately all came out and appeared to assume new life.
The sight of this Indian woman, wife to one of our interpreters,
confirmed those people of our friendly intentions, as no woman
ever accompanies a war party of Indians in this quarter. Capt.
Lewis joined us and we smoked with those people in the greatest
friendship, during which time one of our old Chiefs informed them
who we were, from whence we came and where we were going, giving
them a friendly account of us. Those people do not speak precisely
the same language of those above but understand them. I saw several
horses and persons on horseback in the plains. Many of the men,
women and children came up from the lodges belong; all of them
appeared pleased to see us, we traded some few articles for fish
and berries, dined, and proceeded on. Passed a small rapid and
15 lodges below the five, and encamped below an island close under
the larboard side, nearly opposite to 24 lodges on an island near
the middle of the river. Indians came from the different lodges,
and a number of them brought wood which they gave us. We smoked
with all of them, and two of our party, Peter Cruzatte & Gibson
played on the violin which delighted them greatly. We gave to
the principal man a string of wampum, treated them kindly for
which they appeared grateful. This tribe can raise about 350 men.
Their dress is similar to those at the fork except their robes
are smaller and do not reach lower than the waist and ¾
of them have scarcely any robes at all. The women have only a
small piece of a robe which covers their shoulders, neck and reaching
down behind to their wastes, with a tight piece of leather about
the waste. The breasts are large and hang down, very low, ill
shaped, high cheeks, flattened heads, & have but few ornaments.
They are all employed in fishing and drying fish, of which they
have great quantities on their scaffolds. Their habits, customs
&c. I could not learn. The Indians continued all night at
our fires.
[Clark]
October 20th Sunday 1805
After breakfast we gave all the Indian men smoke, and we set out,
leaving about 200 of the natives at our encampment. Passed three
Indian lodges on the larboard side a little below our camp which
lodges (we) I did not discover last evening. On those three islands
I counted seventeen Indian lodges. Those people are in every respect
like those above, preparing fish for their winter consumption.
Here we purchased a few indifferent dried fish & a few berries
on which we dined. (On the upper part of this island we discovered
an Indian vault). Our curiosity induced us to examine the method
those natives practiced in disposing the dead. The vault was made
by broad boards and pieces of canoes leaning on a ridge pole which
was supported by 2 forks set in the ground, six feet in height
in an easterly and westerly direction and about 60 feet in length
and 12 feet wide. In it I observed great numbers of human bones
of every description, particularly in a pile near the center of
the vault. On the east end 21 skulls and bones forming a circle
on mats. In the westerly part of the vault appeared to be appropriated
for those of more recent death, as many of the bodies of the deceased
wrapped up in leather robes lay on boards covered with mats, &c.
We observed, independent of the canoes which served as a covering,
fishing nets of various kinds, baskets of different sizes, wooden
bowls, robes, skins, trenchers, and various kinds of trinkets,
in and suspended on the ends of the pieces forming the vault.
We also saw the skeletons of several horses at the vault &
a great number of bones about it, which convinced me that those
animals were sacrificed as well as the above articles to the deceased.
[Clark]
October 21st Monday 1805
Some rapid water at the head and eight lodges of natives opposite
its lower point on the starboard side. We came to at those lodges,
bought some wood and breakfasted. Those people received us with
great kindness, and examined us with much attention, their employments,
customs, dress and appearance similar to those above; speak the
same language. Here we saw two scarlet and a blue cloth blanket,
also a sailor's jacket. The dress of the men of this tribe only
a short robe of deer or goat skins, and that of the women is a
short piece of dressed skin which falls from the neck so as to
cover the front of the body as low as the waist. A short robe,
which is of one deer or antelope skin, and a flap, around their
waist and drawn tight between their legs as before described.
Their ornaments are but few, and worn as those above. We got from
those people a few pounded roots fish and acorns of the white
oak. Those acorns they make use of as food, and inform us they
procure them of the natives who live near the falls below, which
place they all describe by the term Timm. Those people did not
receive us at first with the same cordiality of those above. They
appear to be the same nation, speak the same language with a little
corruption of many words, dress and fish in the same way. All
of whom have pierced noses and the men when dressed wear a long
tapered piece of shell or bead put through the nose.
[Gass]
Tuesday 22nd. At 10 o'clock we came to a large island, where the
river has cut its way through the point of a high hill. Opposite
to this island a large river comes in on the south side, called
by the natives the Shoshone or Snake-Indian River; and which has
large rapids close to its mouth. This, or the Krmoo-ee-nem, is
the same river, whose headwaters we saw at the Snake Nation. The
natives are very numerous on the island and all along the river.
Their lodges are of bulrushes and flags, made into a kind of mats,
and formed into a hut or lodge.
[Clark]
October 24th Thursday 1805
The morning fair after a beautiful night. The natives approached
us this morning with great caution. Our two old chiefs expressed
a desire to return to their band from this place, saying "that
they could be of no further service to us, as their nation extended
no further down the river than those falls; and as the nation
below had expressed hostile intentions against us, would certainly
kill them; particularly as they had been at war with each other."
We requested them to stay with us two nights longer, and we would
see the nation below and make a peace between them. They replied
they "were anxious to return and see our horses." We
insisted on their staying with us two nights longer, to which
they agreed. Our views were to detain those Chiefs with us until
we should pass the next falls, which we were told was very bad,
and at no great distance below, that they might inform us of any
designs of the natives, and if possible to bring about a peace
between them and the tribes below.
[Lewis]
Tuesday April 15th 1806
At three in the evening we arrived at the entrance of Quinnette
Creek, which we ascended a short distance and encamped at the
place we have called Rock Fort Camp. Here we were visited by some
of the people from the villages at the great narrows and falls.
We informed them of our wish to purchase horses, & agreed
to meet them on the opposite or north side of the river tomorrow
for the purpose of bartering with them. Most of them returned
to their villages this evening. Three only remained with us all
night. These people are much better clad than any of the nations
below; their men have generally leggings, moccasins and large
robes, many of them wear shirts of the same form [as] those of
the Chopunnish [or] Shoshones, highly ornamented with the quills
of the porcupine as also their moccasins and leggings. They conceal
the parts of genera with the skin of a fox or some other small
animal drawn underneath a girdle and hanging loosely in front
of them like a narrow apron. The dress of their women differs
very little from those about the rapids. Both men and women cut
their hair in the forehead which comes down as low as the eyebrows.
They have long earlocks cut square at the end. The other part
of their hair is dressed in the same manner as those of the rapids.
[Lewis]
Tuesday April 22nd 1806.
At 7 A.M. we set out, having previously sent on our small canoe
with Colter and Potts. We had not arrived at the top of a hill
over which the road leads opposite the village before Charbonneau's
horse threw his load, and taking fright at the saddle and robe
which still adhered, ran at full speed down the hill. Near the
village he disengaged himself from the saddle and robe, an Indian
hid the robe in his lodge. Sent our guide and one man who was
with me in the rear to assist Charbonneau in retaking his horse,
which having done they returned to the village. On the track of
the horse in search of the lost articles they found the saddle
but could see nothing of the robe, the Indians denied having seen
it; they then continued on the track of the horse to the place
from whence he had set out with the same success. Being now confident
that the Indians had taken it I sent the Indian woman [Sacagawea]
on to request Capt. Clark to halt the party and send back some
of the men to my assistance, being determined either to make the
Indians deliver the robe or burn their houses. They have vexed
me in such a manner by such repeated acts of villainy that I am
quite disposed to treat them with every severity. Their defenseless
state pleads forgiveness so far as respects their lives. With
this resolution I returned to their village, which I had just
reached as Labiche met me with the robe, which he informed me
he found in an Indian lodge hid behind their baggage. I now returned
and joined Capt. Clark, who was waiting my arrival with the party.
The Indian woman [Sacagawea] had not reached Capt. Clark until
about the time I arrived and he returned from a position on the
top of a hill not far from where he had halted the party. [We]
proceeded on through an open plain country about 8 miles to a
village of 6 houses of the Eneshur Nation. We halted at a small
run just above the village where we dined on some dogs which we
purchased of the inhabitants and suffered our horses to graze
about three hours. There is no timber in this country. We are
obliged to purchase our fuel of the natives, who bring it from
a great distance. While we halted for dinner we purchased a horse.
After dinner we proceeded on up the river about 4 miles to a village
of 7 mat lodges of the last mentioned nation. Here our Chopunnish
[Nez Perce] guide informed us that the next village was at a considerable
distance and that we could not reach it tonight. The people at
this place offered to sell us wood and dogs, and we therefore
thought it better to remain all night. A man belonging to the
next village above proposed exchanging a horse for one of our
canoes. Just at this moment one of our canoes was passing. We
hailed them and ordered them to come over, but the wind continued
so high that they could not join us until after sunset and the
Indian who wished to exchange his horse for the canoe had gone
on. Charbonneau purchased a horse this evening. We obtained 4
dogs and as much wood as answered our purposes on moderate terms.
[Ordway]
Tuesday 22nd of April 1806.
About noon we halted at a village of the Walla Walla tribe where
we bought a dog and a little firewood. The wind so high from the
northwest that the canoes being on the opposite side of the river
could not cross. We purchased a horse. Took a light dinner and
proceeded on about 6 miles and camped at a village where we purchased
a horse, 5 dogs and a little wood and considerable of new shappalel
&c.
[Lewis]
Wednesday April 23rd 1806.
We continued our march along a narrow rocky bottom on the north
side of the river about 12 miles to the Wah-how-pum Village of
12 temporary mat lodges near the Rock Rapid. These people appeared
much pleased to see us, sold us 4 dogs and some wood for our small
articles which we had previously prepared as our only resource
to obtain fuel and food through those plains. These articles consisted
of pewter buttons, strips of tin, iron and brass, twisted wire
&c. We also obtained some chapellel newly made from these
people. Here we met with a Chopunnish [Nez Perce] man on his return
up the river with his family and about 13 head of horses, most
of them young and unbroken. He offered to hire us some of them
to pack as far as his nation, but we prefer buying as by hiring
his horses we shall have the whole of his family most probably
to maintain. At a little distance below this village we passed
five lodges of the same people who like those were waiting the
arrival of the salmon. After we had arranged our camp we caused
all the old and brave men to sit around and smoke with us, we
had the violin played and some of the men danced; after which
the natives entertained us with a dance after their method. This
dance differed from any I have yet seen. They formed a circle
and all sung as well the spectators as the dancers who performed
within the circle. These placed their shoulders together with
their robes tightly drawn about them and danced in a line from
side to side, several parties of from 4 to seven will be performing
within the circle at the same time. The whole concluded with a
promiscuous dance in which most of them sung and danced. These
people speak a language very similar to the Chopunnish, whom they
also resemble in their dress. Their women wear long leggings,
moccasins, shirts and robes. Their men also dress with leggings,
shirts, robes and moccasins. After the dance was ended the Indians
retired at our request and we retired to rest.
[Lewis]
Thursday April 24th 1806.
In the intermediate time we had 4 packsaddles made, purchased
three horses of the Wah-howpums, and hired three others of the
Chopunnish man who accompanies us with his family and horses.
We now sold our canoes for a few strands of beads, loaded up and
departed at 2 P.M. The natives had tantalized us with an exchange
of horses for our canoes in the first instance, but when they
found that we had made our arrangements to travel by land, they
would give us nothing for them. I determined to cut them in pieces
sooner than leave them on those terms. Drewyer struck one of the
canoes and split of a small piece with his tomahawk. They discovered
us determined on this subject and offered us several strands of
beads for each, which were accepted. At 12 miles we arrived at
a village of 5 lodges of the Met-cow-wes, having passed 4 lodges
at 4 and 2 at 2 miles further. We remained all night near the
Met-cow-we lodges about 2 miles below our encampment of the [blank]
of October last. We purchased three dogs and some chapellel of
these people which we cooked with dry grass and willow boughs.
Many of the natives passed and repassed us today on the road and
behaved themselves with distant respect towards us.
[Lewis]
Friday April 25th 1806.
This morning we collected our horses and set out at 9 A.M. and
proceeded on 11 miles to the village of the Pish-quit-pahs of
51 mat lodges where we arrived at 2 P.M. Purchased five dogs and
some wood from them and took dinner. This village contains about
7 hundred souls. Most of those people were in the plains at a
distance from the river as we passed down last fall. They had
now therefore the gratification of beholding white men for the
first time. While here they flocked around us in great numbers,
though treated us with much respect. We gave two medals of the
small size to their two principal chiefs who were pointed out
to us by our Chopunnish fellow traveler and were acknowledged
by the nation. We exposed a few old clothes, my dirk, and Capt.
Clark's sword to barter for horses but were unsuccessful. These
articles constitute at present our principal stock in trade. The
Pish-quit-pahs insisted much on our remaining with them all night,
but sundry reasons conspired to urge our noncompliance with their
wishes. We passed one house or rather lodge of the Metcowwees
about a mile above our encampment of the [blank]th of October
last. The Pish-quit-pahs may be considered hunters as well as
fishermen as they spend the fall and winter months in that occupation.
They are generally pleasantly featured, of good stature and well
proportioned. Both women and men ride extremely well. Their bridle
is usually a hair rope tied with both ends to the under jaw of
the horse, and their saddle consists of a pad of dressed skin
stuffed with goat's hair with wooden stirrups. Almost all the
horses which I have seen in possession of the Indians have sore
backs. The Pishquitpah women for the most part dress with short
skirts which reach to their knees, long leggings and moccasins,
they also use large robes; some of them wear only the truss and
robe. They braid their hair as before described but the heads
of neither male nor female of this tribe are so much flattened
as the nations lower down on this river. At 4 P.M. we set out
accompanied by eighteen or twenty of their young men on horseback.
[Gass]
Friday 25th. At noon, we came to a very large band of the Wal-a-waltz
nation, the most numerous we had seen on the Columbia; I suppose
it consisted of 500 persons, men, women, and children; and all
of them tolerably well clothed children with robes of the skins
of the deer, the ibex or big-horned animal and buffalo. They have
a great many horses, and lately came to the river to fish for
salmon.
[Lewis]
Sunday April 27th 1806.
While here the principal Chief of the Walla Wallas joined us with
six men of his nation. This Chief, by name Yellept, had visited
us on the morning of the 19 of October at our encampment a little
below this place. We gave him at that time a small medal, and
promised him a larger one on our return. He appeared much gratified
at seeing us return, invited us to remain at his village three
or four days and assured us that we should be furnished with a
plenty of such food as they had themselves; and some horses to
assist us on our journey. After our scanty repast we continued
our march accompanied by Yellept and his party to the village
which we found at the distance of six miles situated on the north
side of the river at the lower side of the low country about 12
miles below the entrance of Lewis's River. This Chief is a man
of much influence not only in his own nation but also among the
neighboring tribes and nations. This village consists of 15 large
mat lodges. At present they seem to subsist principally on a species
of mullet which weigh from one to three pounds and roots of various
descriptions which these plains furnish them in great abundance.
They also take a few salmon trout of the white kind. Yellept harangued
his village in our favor, entreated them to furnish us with fuel
and provision, and set the example himself by bringing us an armful
of wood and a platter of 3 roasted mullets. The others soon followed
his example with respect to fuel and we soon found ourselves in
possession of an ample stock. They burn the stems of the shrubs
in the plains there being no timber in their neighborhood of any
description. We purchased four dogs of these people on which the
party supped heartily having been on short allowance for near
two days. The Indians retired when we requested them this evening
and behaved themselves in every respect extremely well. The Indians
informed us that there was a good road which passed from the Columbia
opposite to this village to the entrance of the Kooskooskee on
the south side of Lewis's River. They also informed us that there
were a plenty of deer and antelope on the road, with good water
and grass. We knew that a road in that direction if the country
would permit would shorten our route at least 80 miles. The Indians
also informed us that the country was level and the road good.
Under these circumstances we did not hesitate in pursuing the
route recommended by our guide, whose information was corroborated
by Yellept & others.
[Lewis]
Monday April 28th 1806.
This morning early Yellept brought a very elegant white horse
to our camp and presented him to Capt. Clark, signifying his wish
to get a kettle. But on being informed that we had already disposed
of every kettle we could possibly spare he said he was content
with whatever he thought proper to give him. Capt. Clark gave
him his sword, a hundred balls and powder and some sale articles
with which he appeared perfectly satisfied. Being anxious to depart
we requested the Chief to furnish us with canoes to pass the river,
but he insisted on our remaining with him this day at least, that
he would be much pleased if we would consent to remain two or
three, but he would not let us have canoes to leave him today.
That he had sent for the Chym nap-pos his neighbors to come down
and join his people this evening and dance for us. We urged the
necessity of our going on immediately in order that we might the
sooner return to them with the articles which they wished but
this had no effect, he said that the time he asked could not make
any considerable difference. I at length urged that there was
no wind blowing and that the river was consequently in good order
to pass our horses and if he would furnish us with canoes for
that purpose we would remain all night at our present encampment.
To this proposition he assented and soon produced us a couple
of canoes by means of which we passed our horses over the river
safely and bubbled them as usual. We found a Shoshone woman, prisoner
among these people by means of whom and Sacagawea we found the
means of conversing with the Walla Wallas. We conversed with them
for several hours and fully satisfied all their inquiries with
respect to ourselves and the objects of our pursuit. They were
much pleased. They brought several diseased persons to us for
whom they requested some medical aid. One had his knee contracted
by the rheumatism, another with a broken arm &c., to all of
which we administered much to the gratification of those poor
wretches. We gave them some eye-water which I believe will render
them more essential service than any other article in the medical
way which we had it in our power to bestow on them. Sore eyes
seem to be a universal complaint among these people; I have no
doubt but the fine sand of these plains and river contribute much
to this disorder. Ulcers and eruptions of the skin on various
parts of the body are also common diseases among them. A little
before sunset the Chymnahpos arrived; they were about 100 men
and a few women; they joined the Walla Wallas who were about the
same number and formed a half circle around our camp where they
waited very patiently to see our party dance. The fiddle was played
and the men amused themselves with dancing about an hour. We then
requested the Indians to dance, which they very cheerfully complied
with; they continued their dance until 10 at night. The whole
assemblage of Indians about 550 men, women and children, sung
and danced at the same time. Most of them stood in the same place
and merely jumped up to the time of their music. Some of the men
who were esteemed most brave entered the space around which the
main body were formed in solid column, and danced in a circular
manner sidewise. At 10 P.M. the dance concluded and the natives
retired; they were much gratified with seeing some of our party
join them in their dance.
[Ordway]
Monday 28th of April 1806.
Our interpreter's wife [Sacagawea] found a woman of her own nation
who was a prisoner among these Indians, and as they could speak
together our officers spoke to the head chief & told him our
business and that the white people would supply them with merchandize
at the head of the Missouri &c. The Indians sent their women
to gather wood or sticks to see us dance this evening. About 300
of the natives assembled to our camp. We played the fiddle and
danced a while. The head chief told our officers that they should
be lonesome when we left them and they wished to hear once of
our medicine songs and try to learn it and wished us to learn
one of theirs and it would make them glad. So our men sang 2 songs
which appeared to take great effect on them. They tried to learn
singing with us with a low voice. The head chief then made a speech
& it was repeated by a warrior that all might hear. Then all
the savages, men, women and children of any size danced, forming
a circle round a fire & jumping up nearly as other Indians,
& keep time very well. They wished our men to dance with them
so we danced among them and they were much pleased, and said that
they would dance day and night until we return. Every few minutes
one of their warriors made a speech, pointing towards the enemy
and towards the moon &c. &c. which was all repeated by
another medicine man with a louder voice as all might hear. The
dance continued until about midnight, then the most of them went
away peaceable & have behaved very clever and honest with
us as yet, and appear to have a sincere wish to be at peace and
to get acquaintance with us &c. &c.
[Lewis]
Tuesday April 29th 1806.
Our guide now informed us that it was too late in the evening
to reach an eligible place to encamp; that we could not reach
any water before night. We therefore thought it best to remain
on the Walla Walla River about a mile from the Columbia until
the morning, and accordingly encamped on that river near a fish
weir. This weir consists of two curtains of small willow switches
matted together with four lines of wythes of the same materials
extending quite across the river, parallel with each other and
about 6 feet asunder. Those are supported by several parcels of
poles placed in the manner before described of the fishing weirs.
These curtains of willow are either rolled at one end for a few
feet to permit the fish to pass or are let down at pleasure. They
take their fish which at present are a mullet only of from one
to five pounds, with seines of 15 or 18 feet long drawn by two
persons; these they drag down to the weir and raise the bottom
of the seine against the willow curtain. They have also a small
seine managed by one person; it bags in the manner of the scooping
net. The one side of the net is confined to a semi-circular bow
of half the size of a man's arm and about 5 feet long. The other
side is confined to a strong string which being attached to the
extremities of the bow forms the cord line to the semicircle.
There are 12 other lodges of the Walla Walla Nation on this river
a little distance below our camp. These as well as those beyond
the Columbia appear to depend on this fishing weir for their subsistence.
These people as well as the Chymnahpos are very well dressed,
much more so particularly their women than they were as we descended
the river last fall. Most of them have long shirts and leggings,
good robes and moccasins. Their women wear the truss when they
cannot procure the shirt, but very few are seen with the former
at this moment. I presume the success of their winter's hunt has
produced this change in their attire. They all cut their hair
in their forehead and most of the men wear the two queues over
each shoulder in front of the body; some have the addition of
a few small plats formed of the earlocks and others tie a small
bundle of the docked foretop in front of the forehead. Their ornaments
are such as described of the nations below and are worn in a similar
manner. They insisted on our dancing this evening but it rained
a little, the wind blew hard and the weather was cold. We therefore
did not indulge them.
[Lewis]
Wednesday April 30th 1806.
At 10 A.M. we had collected all our horses except the white horse
which Yellept had given Capt. Clark. The whole of the men soon
after returned without being able to find this horse. I lent my
horse to Yellept to search Capt. Clark's. About half an hour after
he set out our Chopunnish [Nez Perce] man brought up Capt. Clark's
horse. We now determined to leave one man to bring on my horse
when Yellept returned and to proceed on with the party. Accordingly
we took leave of these friendly, honest people the Walla Wallas
and departed at 11 A.M., accompanied by our guide and the Chopunnish
man and family. Drewyer killed a beaver and an otter; a part of
the former we reserved for ourselves and gave the Indians the
balance. These people will not eat the dog but feast heartily
on the otter, which is vastly inferior in my estimation. They
sometimes also eat their horses. This indeed is common to all
the Indians who possess this animal in the plains of Columbia;
but it is only done when necessity compels them. These Indians
are cruel horse-masters; they ride hard, and their saddles are
so illy constructed that they cannot avoid wounding the backs
of their horses; but regardless of this they ride them when the
backs of those poor animals are in a horrid condition.
[Ordway]
Wednesday 30th of April 1806.
Chilly and cold. The men went out for their horses. An Indian
brought a woman to Capt. Clark which [was] diseased, had not the
use of her limbs. He brought a fine horse and gave Capt. Clark
for doctoring her he gave medicine and told them how to apply
it &c. Capt. Clark gave the Indian a white shirt, which pleased
him very much. About 11 A.M. we got our horses up by the assistance
of the Indians and set out.
[Lewis]
Thursday May 1st 1806.
After we had encamped three young men arrived from the Walla Walla
Village bringing with them a steel trap belonging to one of our
party which had been negligently left behind; this is an act of
integrity rarely witnessed among Indians. During our stay with
them they several times found the knives of the men which had
been carelessly lost by them and returned them. I think we can
justly affirm to the honor of these people that they are the most
hospitable, honest, and sincere people that we have met with in
our voyage.
[Lewis]
Friday May 2nd 1806.
The three young men of the Walla Walla Nation continued with us.
In the course of the day I observed them eat the inner part of
the young and succulent stem of a large, coarse plant with a ternate
leaf, the leaflets of which are three lobed and covered with a
woolly pubescence. The flower and fructification resembles that
of the parsnip. This plant is very common in the rich lands on
the Ohio and its branches the Mississippi &c. I tasted of
this plant found it agreeable and ate heartily of it without feeling
any inconvenience.