San Juan Island
Administrative History
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CHAPTER 2:
Historical Background


Explorers, Traders, and Settlers
(continued)

One hundred of Her Majesty's Royal Marines, under the command of Captain George Bazelgette, landed on San Juan Island on March 21, 1860. They chose a site on the shore of Garrison Bay, on the northwestern corner of the island, to build a camp. General Harney, who had not been reprimanded or removed from his command as Scott thought he should, made another rash move. Angry over the landing of the Royal Marines, Harney ordered Pickett back to the island to replace Captain Hunt. He instructed Pickett to show Bazelgette his orders, which stated that because Scott left no orders with him to allow British troops to land, the agreement was not valid and he would allow them to stay only because Douglas agreed not to try and remove American troops. In addition, Harney's orders declared the islands a part of Washington Territory and the British would be subject to the laws of the territory, having no authority themselves, and that cases involving British citizens would be remanded to Admiral Baynes and Governor Douglas. Hunt immediately wrote to General Scott informing him of Harney's actions and declaration that the British had no authority on the island.

At the same time, Douglas and Admiral Baynes sent word to Lord Lyons in Washington regarding the actions, which violated the 1859 agreement. Harney had pushed the limits of tolerance for his actions. President Polk and Buchanan had previously managed to save face with the British without undermining Harney's position or removing him from his command. This later attempt to enforce American jurisdiction following the negotiated temporary settlement would not be so easy to explain. General Harney was relieved of his command and ordered back to Washington, and his orders to Pickett rescinded. Then the agreement negotiated between Scott and Douglas proceeded. General Scott concluded that the only reason war had not erupted over the island was the "forbearance of British authorities." [29]

English Camp, c. 1860
English Camp, c. 1860

During the conflict, the island became a hot destination, first by tourists looking to witness any action, but then by more settlers and entrepreneurs. With two military encampments on the island, the population of San Juan Town (or San Juan Village as it is sometimes called), located on the edge of Griffin Bay next to American Camp, grew. With the lack of a formal civil authority and both military camps concerned more with each other, illegal activity in the form of liquor trade and prostitution abounded. Captain Hunt had very little success in controlling this activity, and both commanders wanted to limit the involvement of their troops in undesirable activities.

When planning the joint occupation, neither side probably anticipated that it would take 12 years to settle the water boundary question and that there would be a need for some kind of civil magistrate system. In order to deal with any lawlessness occurring on the island, the British and American commanders agreed to a joint military rule of the island, with British citizens coming under British laws and Americans under American law. Under this arrangement the commanders ruled the island in somewhat of a military state until 1872, each having jurisdiction over both their country's settlers. A great deal of cooperation and social interaction occurred between the two camps, including several social functions at English Camp that brought socialites over from nearby Vancouver Island. [30]

When the Royal Marines established camp, they erected tents and began construction of a storehouse for their supplies, a garden, and a small cookhouse. More formal construction at the site began later that summer, when requests for supplies and permission to build winter quarters were granted. That September, bids were let for construction of an early barracks building and a utility building for storage and bathing, which were completed near the end of October. [31] Work also began on officers' quarters and a formal cooking building, which was also completed that fall. In October, they established a lime kiln near Roche Harbor.

English Camp, c. 1870
English Camp, c. 1870

No further construction is recorded until 1867, when Bazelgette began complaining that the current living quarters had outlived their temporary nature. After a survey by the regional senior officer, it was agreed to let construction on a new quarters for the camp captain. Bazelgette would transfer before the new quarters were constructed. His replacement, Captain William Delacombe, arrived at Garrison Bay with his wife and three children. As the officers' family needs changed, so did construction needs at the camp. Following building of the quarters for Delacombe and his family, work began on quarters for one of the junior officers, who had married and whose family was also with him. Both contracts were let to area builders.

Between 1860 and 1867, many other structures were completed, including the blockhouse (guardhouse), the hospital, the commissary, a blacksmith shop, a stable, library/schoolroom, wharf and pier, flagpole, formal garden, sentry boxes, the cemetery, and wells. For a complete listing and identification of sites, refer to the historic base map for English Camp on page 85 and 110.

When Captain Pickett first landed American troops on the island in 1859, they set up a tent camp on the edge of Griffin Bay, near the Hudson's Bay Company wharf. Later, around July 30, Pickett moved the camp to the south side of the peninsula, next to a spring and away from the direct line of fire of the British naval guns in Griffin Bay.

Around August, the army began erecting some wooden structures at the camp, all constructed from materials taken from buildings dismantled at Fort Bellingham. [32] These structures included a barracks and hospital. With the arrival of Colonel Casey and more troops, the camp was moved again. Casey believed the site at the spring was too exposed to the wind and weather, and chose to move the camp to the north slope of the ridge above the HBC Company farm. Here there was a small stand of trees that would shelter the companies from the weather and provide a location on the ridge for the six guns brought off the Massachusetts.

On August 25, the army began construction of a fortification for the emplacement of eight 32-pound guns. The Redoubt, as it would later be called, provided coverage of water access to the southern tip of the island. [33] However, when General Scott arrived and the joint occupation was negotiated, Scott ordered a halt on construction of the Redoubt. The guns were placed back on the Massachusetts, and the army forces were reduced to one company. Five gun platforms constructed on the ridge now lay empty. The army men began calling it "Robert's gopher hole" after the army engineer who designed and supervised its construction, Lt. Henry M. Robert. [34]

No formal construction plans exist for Pickett's construction at the third and final site, but the written record indicates that officers' quarters, laundress' quarters, and a mess room and kitchen were constructed and a flagpole erected. [35] After Pickett's removal and the start of the American Civil War, construction plans were not a high priority. In 1865, buildings were freshly painted and a new arch constructed over the military cemetery.

In 1867, the same year that construction of more solid structures took place at English Camp, the U.S. Army began building better and more permanent structures. In 1859 when the joint occupation was negotiated and the detachments began construction of facilities, neither group realized that their stay would last so long. Both camps had built temporary structures and after six years were in need of improvements if troops were to remain.

To that end, the U.S. Army brought over more dismantled structures and materials from the now abandoned Fort Bellingham for use at American Camp. In all, two sets of officers' quarters, an adjuntant's office, noncommissioned officers' mess, a set of laundress' quarters, a new hospital, quartermaster storehouse, commissary storehouse, blacksmith shop, a two-story barn and stable, a granary, mess hall, and additions to other buildings were completed. [36]

Research indicates that the army built no less than 34 structures. Structures included the blockhouse/guardhouse, enlisted and officers' quarters, a bake house, barracks, messroom and kitchen, two hospitals, storehouses, a blacksmith shop, granary, carpenter shop, school and reading room, bath house, telegraph office, shoemaker shop, cemetery, roothouses, the flagstaff, and the Redoubt, among others. [37] For a complete listing and identification of sites, refer to the historic base map for American Camp on page 84 and 106.

American Camp, c. 1870
American Camp, c. 1870. Photograph courtesy of the Provincial Archives, HP015273/A-05967.

The water boundary issue was eventually placed in the hands of the Emperor of Germany for arbitration, along with other claims issues generated from the Civil War. Both countries were allowed to plead their case and on October 21, 1872, the emperor declared in favor of the Haro Strait and the United States. On November 23, the British marines evacuated the island. Not having specific orders regarding disposition of the buildings at the camp, the British commander turned all structures and lands over to the commander of American Camp. The army placed a small detachment of men on site for a guard and protection until 1874, when the American troops were recalled. English Camp lands were vacated when the army reduced its landholdings in 1875. [38] This would coincide with the arrival of a settler named William Crook, who moved his family into one of the officers' quarters and took up residence, receiving homestead certification from the U.S. government in 1883.

British citizens on the island requested assistance in settling land claims; most did not want to leave their homes. President Grant issued a proclamation forbidding land sales until all British claims had been settled. [39] In 1873, 72 Britons had requested American citizenship in order to keep their homes.

Of the decision, the retired James Douglas felt great disappointment: the islands he wanted to fight for so badly had indeed slipped through the British grasp and into American hands.


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Last Updated: 19-Jan-2003