Experiencing the city's edge

On the river side, behind the Sheet Metal Worker's Union, expansive fields of green await one here, and the quiet of the shallows area in the midst of rotting piers is a pleasant surprise for the birdwatcher and fisherman. Rivalled only by Ellis Island, the Washington Avenue Immigration Station, now demolished, was once the arrival point for millions of immigrants arriving on US shores.

Continuing north on Columbus Boulevard to Montrose Street, you will pass two stately Beaux Arts-style piers dating from the early 20th century. Nestled between these and the busy Coast Guard Station is a chance to get a taste of Philadelphia. Appearing as little more than a greasy diner shack, it overlooks the Delaware River...a great, cheap place for a hungry motorist or bicyclist to break for lunch!

Afterwards, park your car or bike and cross the street to the second oldest Swedish church in the United States, Gloria Dei (Old Swedes) Church (owned and administered by Corporation of Gloria Dei (Old Swedes) Church at 215-389-1513; 916 S. Swanson). The church survives as a reminder that the Swedes were the first European settlers in the Philadelphia area. They established a settlement below William Penn that thrived during the 17th and early 18th centuries. The settlers replaced the original log cabin church with the newer brick and mortar Gloria Dei in 1698. Famous Philadelphians such as Betsy Ross were married here. A low wall separates the churchyard from Columbus Boulevard, creating a serene, green oasis in a busy commercial area. A block away is the first shot tower ever built in the United States, and if you're up for a particularly unique Philadelphia experience wander over to the Mummer's Museum at 2nd and Washington.

The character of Delaware Avenue changes noticeably in this area. The road is closer to the river, and the activity on the piers begins to change to commercial ventures that allow direct access to the river's edge. The Mosholu, a four-mast bark c. 1917 was recently refurbished and reopened as a restaurant at Pier 34.

Penn's Landing space is next. With amphitheater, river promenade, the USS Olympia: an 1893 cruiser, USS Becuna: WWII fleet submarine, multiple summertime cultural events and year round access. During William Penn's time, this area of riverfront was alive with sail lofts and tall sailing ships, and the aroma of rum and ale wafted from the many taverns serving sailors. By the start of the Revolutionary War, Philadelphia had supplanted Boston as the pre-eminent port in the country.

Continuing north on Columbus Boulevard, you will pass under the dramatic blue girders of the Benjamin Franklin Bridge, part of the Philadelphia-Camden skyline since 1926. The piers north of Penns Landing around Callowhill Street have been converted to trendy clubs and restaurants. Beyond the clubs the landscape reverts to the gritty industrial look reminiscent of the 19th century. Vacant lots and abandoned factories and warehouses attest to the time when Philadelphia's manufacturers dominated those of other cities in output and employment, and its factories turned their backs on the river.

Philadelphia: Workshop of the World