Few
places in the West are as evocative of the tragic story of the Indian
Wars as Big Hole National Battlefield. This site memorializes the
bravery of the Nez Perce and U.S. soldiers and volunteers who fought
here during the epic flight of the Nez Perce in 1877 and preserves the
scene of one of the most famous battles of the Indian Wars. Located in
the lush Big Hole Valley in southwestern Montana, the beauty and
tranquility of the setting add immeasurably to the solemnity of the
battlefield. "One of the great ironies associated with American
battlefields is that they are often quite beautiful," cultural historian
Edward Linenthal observed in his book Sacred Ground. Here the
picturesque natural setting has changed relatively little since the day
of the predawn attack on the Nez Perce encampment, August 9,
1877.
Today, this National Park System unit of 655 acres
encompasses most of the principal features of the battlefield. Roughly
rectangular in shape, it is bounded by the two-lane State Highway 43 on
the south, Beaverhead National Forest on the west and north, and private
ranch land on the east. Bisecting the area, the North Fork of the Big
Hole River meanders in a northeasterly course through swampy bottomland.
Battle Mountain rises on the northwest side of this river valley, Ruby
Bench on the southeast side. Battle Mountain is backed by the
forest-covered Anaconda Range, Ruby Bench by the high, open expanse of
the Big Hole Valley.
The natural boundary between forest and steppe at
this location, although pronounced, does not quite follow the foot of
the mountains. The lower slope of Battle Mountain is marked by a
treeless, grassy, open area now known as the Horse Pasture. Here, the
Nez Perce gazed their horses while they were encamped along the other
side of the river, and from this point came the pre dawn attack by the
U.S. soldiers and volunteers. To the west of the Horse Pasture, in a
draw known as Battle Gulch, the lodgepole forest extends down to the
valley floor over a low promontory known as the Point of Timber. This
site was the defensive position picked by Lt. Colonel John Gibbon when
he called retreat. Forced back across the river and taking the high
ground within these trees, Gibbon's command dug rifle pits and threw up
breastworks in a roughly circular position now known as the Siege
Area.
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