| I,
Catherine Rose, was asked by the Superintendent of Wind Cave, S.D.
to write my experiences while there as lady guide and explorer from
1891 through 1902 and the season of 1913 (cook and guide).
I became interested
in Geology from a small square of striped sandstone my father, John
Stabler, picked up at Chatanuga (Chattanooga), Tenn. in 1864. He
had carried it through the end of the Civil War and gave it to me
when I was quite young.
My father, John
Stabler, one of five children, was born of George and (sic) Margret
Stabler in a part log house (still there) near a mill pond near
Mifflin, Junita Co., (sic) Penna. in 1847. His father owned a blacksmith
shop. He died when Papa (John Stabler), the youngest of five, was
quite young. His mother married Jake Meintzer and moved near Broadhead,
Wisc. When Papa was 16 he ran away from home and joined the 7th
Wisc. Cavalry. He was wounded at Chattanooga, Tenn. and discharged
at end of Civil War.
He met my mother Lydia Raymer, daughter of a very religious family,
of Rock City, Il. (1867-1866). They were married and had six children,
all deceased except myself, three brothers older and 2 sisters younger.
In 1871, with
their three sons, they went out west in a covered wagon where Papa
acquired a grant of land from the government at MiddleCreek, Nebr.
Near Melford where 2 of Papa’s sisters lived on farms and
also Mother’s brother lived in Melford. The youngest son,
only a baby, tumbled out of the back of the wagon while enroute.
It was several miles later that they missed him. They retraced their
tracks and found that someone had rescued him and were waiting for
them. Papa was building a house and had not completed the kitchen.
It still had it’s dirt floor. Mother needed some soap and
as she was about to step onto this dirt floor, she remembered she
had some. Father saw a white flash, (it was night) and went over
and killed a large rattlesnake. Then on morning, (while the kitchen
was still being built) as she was starting breakfast on the outdoor
fireplace, she reached for the frying pan and there curled up was
a rattlesnake. Those were the dry years and grasshoppers came in
clouds, they would settle on a piece of grain and eat it to the
roots, lay their eggs in the ground and rise up in a cloud and fly
to a fresh field. They left bare cornstalks and dry pits on peach
trees. We lived on barley coffee which Mother roasted, game Papa
shot and a very few groceries. Our folks back east sent us barrels
of clothes, bedding, nuts and necessities. Papa was a carpenter
walking five miles each way for $1 per day. Mother was a tailoress
and made clothes for people. She also pieced a quilt of calico,
some material from the Civil War days. This quilt is being handed
down to my great-grand daughter. One morning while Mother was getting
breakfast, she saw a prairie chicken on the fence and called Papa
who grabbed his gun and shot it. She skinned it and had it cooking
before it’s muscles stopped twitching.
The youngest
son, Raymer, died the summer of 1873 and I was born October 29,
1872. The town of Middle Creek burned and all records were lost.
I never got a birth certificate. When rebuilt it was named Pleasant
Dale.
In 1874 we moved
to Hastings, Nebr. where Papa and a Mr. Deisher went into the implement
business. Country was new and crops good, lots of machinery was
needed, so they made good. My two sisters were born here. While
living here, I remember being sent to town on an errand. In the
park, I witnessed and had to pass a man being hung.
They sold out
in the fall of 1879 and moved to Lincoln, Nebr. where Papa started
to make machinery in the prison with convict help. I remember attending
the circus and riding on Jumbo’s back. Also Jumbo being killed
by a train and saving her baby elephant by throwing her over her
back. It was at this fair that Papa had an exhibit of his machinery
and had built a spiral stair case. The first of its kind and a great
curiosity which drew large crowds. The Indian performances were
next to his exhibit and they made me an Indian Queen. Also my cousin
Harry Raymer age 3 months and weighing 33 lbs. was the prize winning
largest baby. I took care of him one afternoon while mother and
my aunt were shopping. He cried all the time they were gone and
I had to walk the floor with him. I was sure tuckered.
Papa’s
(sic) buisness here was not a success as the convict help was not
satisfactory and also the bank where Papa had his money went broke.
(The bank president absconded with the money).
We bought a
home in East Lincoln and Papa went on the road selling machinery.
He made good, but wanted a (sic) buisness of his own. While here
I remember the blizzard of 1888. We went to school a mile from home
and it had started to snow after lunch. By 2:30, traffic was stopped.
Our teachers had all children living in one direction take hold
of hands and walk in middle of road. Schools in country, teachers,
and children stayed in school, breaking up furniture to burn. Others
started out with the children and not reaching home, some died,
others climbed into haystacks to keep warm.
The next fall
after the blizzard of '88, we moved to Chamberlain, S.D. and ran
a hotel, The Brule. The Sioux Indian track of land was being opened
for homesteads by the government. Before the rush for these government
claims our house was full all of the time. The winter of 1890 and
‘91, the last Indian war, the Battle of Wounded Knee, every
woman and child who could afford to go, left until the battle was
over. I remember one Saturday night twelve Indian chiefs stayed
in our house until Monday morning as no trains left on Sunday and
Chamberlain was the end of the line. We had a small room across
the hall from the office where they smoked pipes and pow-wowed.
They were great eaters. We left them in the dining room after all
other guests were gone and then put everything we had cooked on
the tables and they ate and ate. They got up and shook themselves
and sat down and ate again. They were on their way to Washington
to see the White Father and negotiate peace.
One morning
word came that Sitting Bull was on the boat that just came in so
everybody rushed down to see him. He was smart, shut himself in
his cabin and charged people 50¢ to see him.
Not far from
Chamberlain was Mitchell, S.D. where I remember visiting the Corn
Palace, the only one in the world. Also took boat trips up the Missouri
to the Crow Indian reservation and went to the Indian’s church.
Most of them sat outside and hunted lice on their children’s
heads and cracked them between their teeth. Visited the beef issue
across the Missouri and saw the cattle slaughtered and divided among
the Brule Indians. The Indian children would run around sucking
the entrails. After the crowds had filed on their homesteads, (sic)
buisness dropped off so Papa sent Charles, my younger brother, with
a party to Hot Springs, S.D. to look up a location. He found the
Hotel Parrot on the right side of the court house almost finished
and rented it. Papa packed our furniture in two freight cars and
shipped them to Hot Springs. Then he bought a covered wagon, team
of horses and equipment, found another family, the Vet Schofields,
to share the trip, and we started on a very interesting trip. Our
party consisted of Father, Mother with four children and son’s
wife, The Schofields and their three children. Later their baby
was the first child to go in Wind Cave. Mrs. Schofield is living
now in Hot Springs as Mrs. Gregory. We crossed the Missouri on a
ferry, then over the Wounded Knee battle grounds which had been
fought three months before. We found a few Indian war relics and
ran into several war parties with their war paint on. The drinking
water was a problem. We would fill our barrels only to find it bitter
and would have to dump it. The bad lands were just Indian trails
and gumbo (mud). When it would rain it clung to the wagon wheels
until they were a foot or more wide and would have to scrape it
off. Luckily there was a store in the heart of the badlands as we
used up all our food in just one week. We thought we had brought
enough for the two weeks it would take us to get through these badlands.
Brother George shot some game which was scarce. To me the bad lands
looked like a large winding dry river that dropped 20 to 40 feet
with a wall on each side gulches which made going through two states
forming a ring around it with only a few passes to enter. It was
a geologist paradise with (sic) petrfied snakes, fish, toads, birds,
(sic) lizzards, etc., beautiful crystals of all colors, and shapes.
Rustlers used to drive stock there, keep the breeders and rebrand
them as there was good grazing in parts and very hard to find the
stock. There was Lame Johnny Creek which was named after a rustler
who was caught and was hung there. Mother caught poison ivy which
covered her body, and she nearly died before we could get to a doctor.
Before we got to Buffalo Gap we were pounded twice within an hour
by hail stones. The stones piled up to the horses knees, broke some
the wagon staves and made black bruises on our hands where I had
tried to up hold up the canvas.
Next day we
arrived in Hot Springs and drove to the Hotel Parrot, found our
furniture stored in the basement so we moved in there while we cleaned
and furnished the rooms. Then we opened to the public, we had all
we could take care of.
Just six weeks
after the hailstorms of our trips, we were struck again. We hurried
to get sick people and guests out as it broke all windows on the
North side and blew down the chimney. It had battered the headboards
which stood across the rooms. This storm flooded the Fall River
which runs through Hot Springs which is warm water and Cold Brook
which is cold and met just above the plunge bath. My brother, his
wife and my sisters and many of our guests were in this plunge bath
when the storm struck. It washed out bridges, broke the glass roof
over the plunge bath and the tower. They scurried to shelter and
had a rough time finding their clothes as lights had gone out. The
B. & M. Railroad came in the west end of town and the Northwestern
came up from Buffalo Gap and very often, each year they would be
washed out and then repaired at a great expense.
Some time that
first summer of 1891 Papa went out to Wind Cave. There were no stairs
and they went down a rope and did a lot of climbing and crawling.
He was very much interested in it and saw great possibilities for
development. It was occupied by a Mr. McDonald (a squatter), who
had been sent by Mr. Folsom, head of a mining company, to do the
assessment work. He jumped the claim and took it as a homestead.
This was unknown to my father at this time or he would not have
bought into the cave. McDonald’s family were starving, very
hardup, and was very anxious for someone to invest money in the
developing of the cave. He sold Papa one-half (sic) intrest and
we sent out wagon loads of food several times.
The entrance
to the cave was in a deep gulch. The original opening was a small
oval hole about 8"x12" worn smooth by water spouting out
a geyser, (9) a geyser 12 mi. south of H.S. (at Cascade live) There
are others south of Hot Springs and geologists who came from all
over the world said there were so many signs of it’s being
an extinct geyser. The story went that two Bingham brothers hunting
rabbits camped for the night on top of the gulch and while one brother
made camp and got supper, his brother went down into the gulch hunting
and heard this wind coming out of a hole but covered with brush
and debris washed there by floods. So he scraped away the brush
and as he looked into the hole, the wind took his hat up into the
air. He ran back to camp and told his brother that all hell had
broken loose down in the gulch. In the morning they decided to take
another look at this hole, and as they neared the spot, the first
man threw his hat toward the hole and said “Watch it go up!”
but the wind had changed and took the hat in. They never saw the
hat again. We found out later that this wind was governed by atmospheric
pressure and turned out to be a true (sic) arometer. Clear days
it blew out and the longer it was going to be clear, the stronger
the wind. As a storm approached, the wind blew in and the closer
the storm got the stronger the wind.
Later a log
house was built over the hole which had been blasted near the original
discovery. The front room being directly over it and near the trap
door made in the floor and steps built down 155 feet to the first
passage of cave. The wind blew so strong at times it took two of
us to raise or lower this door according which way the wind blew
and after it got to the first level, there was no strong wind but
a regular system of circulation. Some routes of wind going in and
some coming out. In fact, we used this draft to aid us in exploring.
All of the rooms had two to a dozen openings and we could take our
candle and put it in each opening and the one with the strongest
draft indicated the largest country ahead. We carried a ball of
twine which one end we tied to a rock as it was so easy to get lost.
The cave as
we knew it was a number of crevices where we found the large rooms
(running N.W. to S.E. - 50 to 150 ft. apart) connected by ovens,
as we called them, crawling on our knees and sometimes pulling ourselves
through on our (sic) stomachs. Many times we would have to make
a bridge of our bodies for the others to cross on. We kept ourselves
well padded, where needed. Papa made a code signaling by tapping
rocks. One tap – two taps – three taps and then two
and a one tap – all meaning something like Come, I’ve
found a new room; I am lost; Am in the dark, etc. I still have this
code that Papa made me.
I loved to explore
and seldom missed a trip. It was a great thrill to go into a room
anywhere from 12' x 12' to 3 acres of floor surface that no one
had ever set eyes on before. The ceiling and sided festooned with
beautiful formations, sparkled like diamonds, large rocks strewn
everyplace and fun to make out images of faces, animals, etc.. The
floors were as clean as the walls and showed no dirty water had
flowed through, but all the water had gone up. On one occasion we
were in there 18 hours with temperature of about 45 degrees. When
we became tired we rested, but we never caught cold. In fact, we
had some (sic) asthamatic people stay with us to go down and breath
that air.
One experience
I remember, Papa and I were exploring and had, it seems, been in
the cave about two hours or more. The first part of the trip is
pretty hazy to me, but I distinctly remember coming to a small room
about 12 feet around shaped like an Indian (sic) teepee, the center
having a strong draft. Papa had become tired and laid down to rest.
(We often went to sleep when tired in cave and never caught cold)
I looked down this hole and seeing some rocks that I thought I could
reach with my feet, let myself down, my arms resting on the floor
until I got my balance. I sat down and lit some magnesium ribbon
which I used in large rooms while guiding. I was greatly thrilled
being the first person in a room no one had ever been or seen before.
It was truly beautiful. It was a very high room, about 100 feet
by 50 feet wide. A portion of the ceiling about 30 feet by 15 feet
had fallen just about the middle and in falling cracked open. It
had their (sic) irredesent chocolate colored crystals found no other
place in the cave. The rest of the room including the floor was
covered with what we called Satin Spar which glistened like diamonds.
The (sic) pretiest room I ever expect to find this side of heaven.
I called Papa and after exploring the room further, we gathered
some of the loose pieces of crystals and started our long hard crawl
out. As far as I know this room was never named as it was hard to
get there and was not shown.
There were three
routes opened the first being The Garden of Eden in the winter of
1891 and 92. Many of the rooms were named by the guides and many
more were named by the visitors themselves. The Prairie Dog and
Mound was named by one of the guides who picked up a large rock
which looked like the shape of a prairie dog and placed it on this
mound; Snow Ball, many shapes of snowballs; Post Office, little
boxes lined walls; M.E. Church, our first stop in guiding to rest
and we generally sang a song. Odd Fellow’s Hall, we had to
cross a stone which looked like a turtle so this was named Turtle
Pass. The Cross Roads, we branched off to the right to go the Garden
of Eden. One room had large stones we sat on and called this room
Stone Quarries. The G.A.R. Hall was named by a group of G.A.R. members
who were guided through as were the Eastern Star, Odd Fellow’s
Hall, .C.T.U. Hall, Union College rooms and many others.
The second route,
the Fair Grounds started at the Crossroads. This route was opened
in 1892-93 and so named after Papa guided Billie Bryan and (sic)
Govenor Lee through the Cave. The following newspaper clipping tells
the story.
John Stabler
surely captivated Gov. Lee when he visited the cave last summer
for besides being appointed as an Omaha exposition commissioner,
John has also been named as a delegate to Stock Grower’s Association
at Denver on Jan. 25, 26 and 27. (1893) In speaking to Billie Bryan,
Papa once said “I wish I might talk like you”. Billie
Bryan answered “I wish I might laugh like you”.
Another newspaper
clipping reads: A Transmississippi State Commission Governor Lee
has appointed a new Omaha exposition commission for this state,
as follows: Vice-Pres. A. McKinney, Lead; W.L. Gardner, Rapid City;
Harris Franklin, Martin Chapman and Charles Davis, Deadwood; John
Stabler, Hot Springs; Hance Murphy, Elk Point; C.A. Jewitt, Sioux
Falls; O.H. Mann, Okobojo; Hugh Smith, Howard. The governor says
that he will appoint additional members of the board at the earliest
opportunity and will call the commission together and devise some
means of raising money for making a state exhibit. The governor
certainly made no mistake in naming John Stabler, of this place,
for he can make an attractive exhibition alone if necessary –
with his Wind Cave Specimens – and he no doubt will.
(Sent large
collection to the Smithsonian Inst. Wash.) John Stabler did have
an exhibition of specimens at the State-Fair and so named the room
State Fair Route. Among the Fair Grounds route rooms was the Kimball
Music Hall where you could tap the columns and play an octave. Johnstone’s
Campground – Where Johnstone, the mind reader, slept on his
three day journey through the cave for the pin head. Then we heard
of Mr. Johnstone, the mind reader, coming to Hot Springs, driving
through the streets blind folded and found a name in a register
at a certain hotel. The name belonged to the man whose mind he read.
My father met him and asked him if he thought he could find something
hidden in the cave. He said ”Yes”. So they made arrangements
for the trial. A business man of Hot Springs, Mr. Germond and Alva
McDonald, our chief guide, hid the head of a scarf pin in the cave.
Meanwhile Mr. Johnstone stayed in his hotel room in Hot Springs
and the next morning with his manager Mr. Germond and the Associated
Press reporter with Mr. Johnstone blindfolded got in an opened spring
wagon. Mr. Johnstone drove the 12 miles of very bad roads in 45
minutes. This drive usually took us 1½ to 2 hours to drive.
One of the horses dropped dead, the other one was never any good
afterwards.
Brother Charle’s
wife and I saw the horse drop. As he entered the hotel he took a
razor from my brother’s hand (my brother was shaving my father)
and shaved a few stokes. We all looked scared to death. At the table
he wanted anything he would name it and touch the man next to him
and reach for it before anyone else could.
When he went
down to the cave entrance, he sat on the step leading down in the
cave and cried “I’ve lost my power” repeating
it several times. Finally, still blindfolded, he jumped up and said
“Come, I see the way”. He flew down the stairs dragging
the man who had the other end of string tied to his wrist. We knew
where they were all of the time as we sent a guide a distance behind
them in case they should get lost. This guide carried blankets to
sleep on and food to places he knew they would pass. They were three
days and nights and were getting exhausted, so Alva took them to
the place where the pinhead was hidden. Mr. Johnstone, still blindfolded,
took the pinhead up on the end of his knife blade and put it in
Mr. Germond’s hand. Our boys took a stretcher in, but when
they got to the Post Office, they heard them coming so they stepped
beside the wall and when Johnstone still in the lead, passed he
didn’t see them but Gerome did. Johnstone immediately said
“I don’t need that stretcher, watch the path”.
Later when Papa
got very sick, we sent for Mr. Johnstone and he hypnotized him with
the thought that his pain was all gone. That really helped him more
than doctors and medicine.
Another room
was Alpine Pass was so winding sometimes called the Merry-go-Round.
The third route,
the Pearly Gates, was opened in 1892 and was so named by my brother-in-law
(Mamie’s husband) Oscar Merwin. He said it reminded him of
what the Pearly Gates would look like. The Blue Grotto of the Pearly
Gates route had a 500 foot level, the lowest we had ever been. The
Raymer room named by my Grandfather Raymer when he went through
the cave at the age of 81. He died at age 89.
The Wind Cave
Hotel, as it was called, my father first built on a hill. It was
a two story house and after moving it down off the hill Papa added
two wings. One for an office and one for kitchen and two bedrooms.
The lower part of the original building we used as a dining room
and we served dinner to all who wanted. My brother, George, ran
this hotel for the first year until papa could sell out in Hot Springs.
Besides buying the half-(sic) intrest in the claim, my two brothers,
brother- in-law, and myself took up homesteads to cover the surface
of the cave. Also McDonald’s son took up a homestead claim,
McDonald having the claim which covered the entrance. George had
the next claim closest to the hotel. Each claim was 320 acres consisting
of 160 timber and stone, 160 tillable.
I started exploring
in 1891 and also guiding a few people in the cave that first season,
1892. We explored winters and my family spent 11 winters blasting
and opening routes and making them possible for women to go through
without overalls. My father, mother, brother Charles and family
and myself lived on my homestead. I had the deed to the only spring
of water a mile away and when the stage coaches would come to water
horses, they would pick me up to guide the party. Papa visited all
the hotels in Hot Springs, getting people to come and tour the cave.
I continued to guide steady for 11 years until 1902. Have guided
many groups of students from School of Mines at (I believe) Sturgis.
Also, geologists from all over the world studying the different
formations, where located, etc. we would take three parties a day.
At one o’clock, 5 o’clock and 12 P.M. We couldn’t
get the Indians to go through except one party of 10 or 12 who were
in missionary work. They chanted their Indian songs all the time
they were in the cave. Grandma Rose’s newspaper clippings.
WHERE THE WINDS
PLAY
Former Stephenson County Man Finds a Mammoth Cave in the West 100
Miles Explored And the End is Not Yet – One of the World’s
Greatest Wonders. Rock City, Nov. 9 – Last Saturday a number
of citizens of Rock City were taken by surprise when the 11:30 passenger
train arrived. John Stabler, wife and daughter, who a number of
years ago resided at this place, stepped off on the platform and
shook hands with their many friends. Years ago, Mr. Stabler went
west and settled in South Dakota. He was not expecting, at that
time, that there was an underground fortune awaiting him. But an
opening in mother earth was (sic) dicovered, in the form of an immense
cave, and as the wind came forth with such force Mr. Stabler and
a partner who was with him, concluded that they would try and enter
into the opening. The result was they discovered enough to see that
there was a fortune near them. So in the year 1892 a stock company
was organized and Mr. Stabler was made superintendent and overseer
of the cave and the name Wind Cave was the title given it. One hundred
miles had been explored and yet there are new openings likely to
be found. Your reporter is unable to give the names of all that
has been seen and discovered in this wonderful cavern. Thousands
of visitors from all parts of the world come to take a view of the
wonderful sights. Mr. Stabler, the superintendent, resided ten miles
from the entrance to the cave at the nearest point of railway accommodations
and he has led as high as 150 persons at one time through the cave.
The price for admission is one dollar for each visitor. Although
this may seem to be a great speculation yet there is a large expense
in erecting stairways and bridges over some of the deep crevices.
Also every ten to twenty-five visitors must be furnished with a
guide to conduct them through. If any of the readers of this article
would like to see a large display of the relics of this cave they
can do so by calling on George Raymer, of Rock City, who is the
father of Mrs. John Stabler. He has one large room at his residence
in Rock City that is ornamented with numerous kinds of minerals
and a long list of names is given to these relics. Everybody is
welcome to call at Mr. Raymer’s and see these specimens. Mr.
Stabler expects to remain one month before he returns home.
Newspaper Clipping
1895
A TRIP TO SOUTH DAKOTA
On Sunday morning, May 19th, after a most bountiful breakfast at
the palatial Midland Hotel, Kansas City, a number of the members
of the Southwest Missouri Press Association, through the kindness
of The Great Burlington Route, by their gentlemanly and courteous
passenger agent, Col. Ives, departed for the famed Hot Springs,
S.D. From Kansas City to St. Joseph, the party was honored with
the company of Mr. Harris, city passenger agent, and his beautiful
wife and little daughter. After a short stay at St. Joseph, the
train pulled out for the great west. A short stop was made at Lincoln,
the capital of Nebraska, and the next morning at 8:40 the wonderful
Hot Springs was reached. The country west of the Platte River, in
Nebraska, to the foot hills in South Dakota, has a dreary look and
is in reality a desert. The only vegetation visible for many miles
after leaving Crawford and before reaching Edgemont was an occasional
bunch of buffalo grass and sage brush. The prairie cactus was also
plentiful.
On reaching
Hot Springs, truly the “Carlsbad of America,” the party
was escorted to the Evans Hotel, the leading hotel of the place.
Hot Springs is 3500 feet above sea level, and nestles in a most
charming valley in the Black Hills. The scenery surrounding the
city is grand and inspiring. Back of the town a short distance stands
what is named “Battle Mountain”, named for a terrible
fight which (sic) (sic) occured years ago between the Sioux and
the Cheyenne Indians for the possession of the hot springs. The
city has about 3,000 inhabitants, a social, energetic and thrifty
people. The buildings are modern and will compare favorably with
any city in the world for beauty of architecture and convenience.
The Evans Hotel, the palace resort hotel of the West, is built of
pink sandstone and will accommodate 300 guests. It is equipped with
all modern conveniences and is just such a home as the person seeking
health, repose and comfort desires. In Hot Springs are many hotels
and several fine business blocks, two newspapers, the South Dakota
Soldiers’ home, and many residence mansions. The great plunge
bath, the wonder of the west is 275 x 150 feet. This is unquestionably
the finest plunge bath in the U.S. The water temperature as it bulges
from the earth is (torn) and the most glorious was torn in by man.
The after (torn)
day there was devoted to a drive over the city. To our friend, Capt.
A. B. Connor we are greatly indebted for this pleasure. Our better-half
and daughter were the guests in a like pleasure of Col. Fred T.
Evans., Capt. Connor was stationed at Fort Wyman in this city and
was instrumental in the construction of the same, and also Ft. Ditty
near the School of Mines. He was, after that and for many years,
with Gen. Crooke and Gen. Custer. He retired from the service, but
a few weeks before Gen. Custer met his death at the hands of the
Savages at Big Horn. He and Col. Evans are possessors of large tracts
of land adjoining Hot Springs. To Dr. W.E. Adams, Kennett F. Harris,
the Stanley Bros., Congressman Lucas and others who names have escaped
our memories, we are under obligations for many courtesies.
The evening
was devoted to a pretty dancing party given by Col. Evans which
was interspersed with music, song and story. As only a few newspapermen
ever indulge in tripping the light fantastic the party was not as
largely represented as Col. Evans had desired. The Burlington’s
travel agent, Col. G. H. Baxter, a most genial gentleman, was on
and did much to make all who happened near him enjoy themselves.
The next morning after a good night’s rest, in two large tally-ho
coaches, a large number of party started for Wind Cave, a distance
of twelve miles. The owners of this wonderful handiwork of nature,
Messrs. Stabler & McDonald, had us under their wing, and although
the air was crisp and bracing, the distance was quickly covered
by these gentlemen.
The story of
the discovery of Wind Cave, which is ninety-six miles long and the
most unique and wonderful cave formation in the known world, was
that a hunter in 1881 chased a deer to its opening. So wonderful
was the rush of air from the small opening that he returned the
next day with his brother to whom he had told the story. An investigation
was begun and from an original opening of eight by twelve inches,
it has been enlarged to admit three men walking abreast. Twenty-five
thousand dollars have been expended on inside improvements making
it the finest and easiest traveled underground wonder known. There
are twenty-five hundred subterranean chambers, and the contract
has been closed to light everyone with electricity. A good hotel
adjoins and the meals are excellent.
Our party explored
this wonderful cavern to the depth of 350 feet and a distance of
three and a half miles. We are utterly unable to give a description
of what can be seen here. The formations are different from those
found in any other cave in the known world, while their (sic) brillancy
and beauty are marvelously grand. This cave has been explored ninety-seven
miles, and resembles and eight-story building. All who have visited
this wonderful place pronounce it the first of the known wonders
of the world.
On our return
from Buffalo Gap, a distance of sixty miles. Prairie-dog villages
are numerous along the route. After a most refreshing bath, and
an excellent dinner, the remainder of the evening was spent with
billiards, genuine western hospitality led by Congressman Lucas
and a delegation from Edgemont headed by Mr. Russell Thorp, and
a (sic) progessive euchre party. At cards the Missourians proved
themselves on par with the men in the wild and wooly west who had
taken lessons from the heathen Chinese, and won every prize but
one – that a “booby”.
The next morning
at 8 o’clock. the sad farewell was said and (sic) accompained
by a pleasant bevy of ladies and gentlemen, the train was taken
for Deadwood and the vast gold field of the Black Hills.
We will speak
of this trip and our stop-over at Edgemont, in our next issue.
DAKOTA'S LONGEST
CAVERN
As Far As Explored
Wind Cave is Ninety-One miles Long.
(From the N.Y. Journal)
Wind Cave, thirteen
miles from Hot Springs, S.D., is visited annually by about 3,000
people, although the place is not generally known to American Citizens.
At present the admissions average about 3,000 annually and do not
yield enough revenue to pay the lawyers who are contesting the ownership
of the property.
The cave is
now in the possession of a man named Folsom, a distant relative
of (sic) Govenor Cleveland’s wife. He holds the fort by virtue
of a judgment on mechanic’s lien, having been employed to
explore the cave and failing to receive his pay therefor.
Wind Cave is reached by stages over bad roads. Arriving at the cave,
the first impressions are disappointing. The visitors are prepared
for the trip by putting on old shoes and white skull caps and when
all are ready are given a candle each. Mr. Folsom then unlocks a
door, which reveals a room just large enough to cover a trap in
the floor. The trap swings upward and the visitors go down in single
file by a narrow, precipitous flight of steps to a depth of 100
feet. The walks and passages then reached, leading at intervals
into the various chambers of which there are 2,100 in the cave.
There are further descents until one gets some 500 feet below the
entrance.
In some of the
chambers it is possible to stand erect, and some are quite lofty,
but the connecting passages are very low. Ladies’ dresses
are decorated with the drippings of candles and the struggles to
get through the narrow passages is such as to make many declare
that one visit to Wind Cave is quite enough.
The cave has
been explored a distance of ninety-one miles. Four years of labor
and $26,000 in money have been expended upon it thus far. Like many
of natures’ secrets, Wind Cave was discovered by accident.
The story is that Mike Bingham, a hunter, shot a deer, which ran
until it dropped near a clump of bushes. When Mike reached the spot
where the deer lay he noticed a strong draft of air, which seemed
to come from behind the bushes. He was led to investigate and found
that it came from an opening in the side of the mountain. The wind
was so strong that when he threw his hat into the hole it was blown
out with such force as to fall twenty feet away.
He went home
and reported what he had seen to his brother who was incredulous
and asked Mike if he had been drinking. Nevertheless the brother
was induced to visit the place and the cap experiment was tried,
but meanwhile the wind had changed and the cap went into the cave
as rapidly as it was blown out the day before.
An investigation
of the interior, supplemented by excavation, led to the belief that
the cave could be utilized as a great natural curiosity, but as
it was still property of the (sic) govn. it was necessary to obtain
title under U.S. land laws. Hence the making of mineral and agricultural
entires and the consequent litigation that has resulted.
Personal Life
Continued from Marriage.
—Following
are a few happening in Grandma’s life which were not mentioned
in the Wind Cave right-up.
—John
Stabler would lecture on politics while Grandma sang the campaign
songs. (Copies enclosed)
—Guided
horseback parties to Harvey Peak.
—Broke
three ribs falling out of hay mow. Broke her own horses.
—Grandma
would ride on horseback to dances and would ride back home in the
morning.
—Went
on horseback when called to sick beds day or night.
—Was on
Jumbo’s back (sic)(elepahnt) at circus. Remember her being
killed by the train, but she saved her baby by throwing him out
of the way over her back.
—Catherine
Rose married C. Ottman January 1899. The match was made by Aunt
Lou, sister of Grandma Stabler. Aunt Lou’s husband was first
cousin to C. Ottman. C. Ottman was a pile driver in Illinois.
—My homestead
claim was 320 acres. Mother and Father Stabler, brother Charley,
his wife Winnie lived with me and worked the farm. 160 acres being
stone, 160 ares timber. C. Ottman didn’t get along with family
and so Charles Stabler with his family left taking up a homestead
near the creek. They (sic) had had three children. Marguerite 1892
in Hot Springs, Raymer on our ranch 1895, died 1897. Grace was born
one month later on our ranch. Papa and Mama moved in with C. Stabler
the summer of 1900
—We had
plenty of rattlesnakes on this ranch and I have killed at least
25 of them. One day I needed some potatoes, so I took a pail to
the higher ground where our work land was. To get there had to climb
a very steep rocky hill. Near the top I heard a hiss and there was
a mother rattler 18 inches from my head. I screamed and struck with
my hoe at the same time. I called a man who was helping us build
a new house to bring up a 2 x 4 and we pried the rock loose. Under
this rock was a den of rattlers. Three younger ones were going around
like crazy hissing. I stepped back to let the man kill them. His
face was so white and (sic) paralized. I had to kill them.
—The summer
of 1899 Papa and Mama and I lived on my ranch. C. O. had gone to
join the pile driver crew another year. Grandpa Raymer was very
sick and they sent for Mother. Papa had to go to court in Rapid
City so that left me all alone for over a week. But I was never
afraid so I didn’t mind it. One day I was scrubbing the kitchen
floor then I heard a knock at front door. When I got into the front
room I saw two large burly negroes standing there looking around.
They asked for a drink of water. We had water piped down from the
spring and while the water was running. I stepped in my room off
the kitchen and got my .38 and slipped my hand under my apron. I
knew I was at their mercy, as they could see no one else was home.
They had seen the barns, (sic) correls, etc. and our nearest neighbor
was 1½ miles away and over two hills at the cave. I handed
them a quart of water and stepped back. I watched every move they
made. They seemed in no hurry to go until one of them saw I has
something in my hand under my apron and he nudged the other and
they backed out. I kept the door locked after that. I watched them
go down the canyon with relief. Next day the (sic) sheriff was after
them for they had broken out of jail. He said they burned charcoal
for a living. They came while he was gone he stated and poisoned
his flour. He thought it looked suspicious so made he pancakes which
he fed to his cat. Killed the cat.
—Then
Papa and Mama moved in with Charley S. the summer of 1900, Papa
was very sick. He died the following March 13, 1901.
—Lucille
was born May 5, 1900. Charley S. and I took turn at running hotel
when she was one month old. Took her express wagon over hills.
—Guided
while coach drivers took care of Lucille. Mama and Charley S. moved
into Hot Springs after Papa’s death. (Summer 1901) Government
took cave that spring. Continued to work until Eva was born December
1902.
—The fall
of 1900 McAdams boy was lost. S. McAdams came down to get us to
help her find her little 4 year old boy who was lost. It was about
5 P.M. They lived five or six miles away. She had been out on horseback
since noon and had to get back to feed her new baby. We made her
eat something and Folsom made her some coffee. We also gave her
my fresh saddlehorse. We went up in the buck board. Mr. Folsom,
took care of Lucille who was 1½ years now. C. O. joined the
other 5 or 6 or more men who were hunting. About midnight Mrs. McAdams
was coming in to feed her baby again and got off her horse to get
a stick to make the horse go. It was about two miles from her home
and the horse was balking because he was tired. There at her feet
lay her little boy dead with tears on his cheeks. Many children
got lost because of the Jack pines growing so thick out there.
—4th of
July picnic 1902. My sister’s family came to visit and we
went on this picnic to Sylvan Lake and Harvey Peak. We were packed
in a lumber wagon with three seats. It started snowing and we got
lost. We ate our lunch in a stone quarry and then returned home
as we were so cold.
—Eva was
born December 1902. Next spring 1902 we sold out and bought a place
at Mayo. Very pretty scenery here. Could see the chimney rocks from
our back door. We had paid extra for 10 acres of potatoes. It froze
every month that year and the potatoes were the size of marbuts.
We had luckily put in over an acre of carrots which did just fine.
I made preserves, pickles, pies, etc. out of them. Fed them to the
pigs and it was the finest meat we ever had. We traded in Custer
which was five miles. It was at Mayo that Lucille was carried away
on a load of hay. I was working in the carrots and C. O. was doing
hay with Lucille on the wagon. The horses ran away with Lucille
on. The horses continued to the house where the hired girl caught
Lucille just as she was sliding off.
—Just
north of the house was a patch of jack pines. Two little girls got
lost after hunting for them for hours, I caught a glimpse of one
of their red coats. Later we were called to hunt for a child about
1½ miles north of us. There was quite a crowd when we arrived.
After most of the day heard a cry way down in a canyon. Child was
found. Many were never found because of the wild animals and open
mines.
—The graves
and statues of (sic) Clamity Jane and Wild Bill Hickock are in Custer.
Campaign Songs
Grandma sang while father spoke.
After Last Fall
(tune of After the Ball)
A little boy
climbed on an old man’s knee.
Beg of a story do Papa please
Why are you lonely — why are you alone
Have you no work but loafing at home
I had a good
job last year, you know
Factory’s were running, mills
Then came the tempter, spoke soft and low
Fooled us poor workers, how I don't know
When we’d
awaken to what we’d done
Factory’s were closing, mills couldn’t run
That is the reason - no work at all
I lost my job pet, after last fall
Chorus.
After the vote
was taken, after the change had come
After the factory's closing, after the wheel were done
Many a heart was aching if we could read them all
Many a home was darkened, after last fall.
Tune of Yankee
Doodle
Billie Bryan
left the Platte
To see the great convention
Was nominated President
And no is all contention
Billy Billy keep it up
Speak a (sic) little longer
For every word you utter
Makes our side a little stronger
Billy McKinley, Billy McKinley
High Tarriff & protection & McKinley
Election years
ran 1892 1896
Newspaper clipping:
In Memoriam Of John Stabler
John Stabler
was born in Pennsylvania in 1847, died on his ranch at Wind Cave,
Wednesday, March 13, 1901, from Brights Disease. While quite young
Mr. Stabler moved to Illinois and a little later to Wisconsin, at
the age of 16 he enlisted in C.B. 1st Wis. Cav. at Madison, and
served to the close of the war. In 1867 he married Lydia A. Raymer
and in 1869 moved to Nebraska, locating upon a farm 18 miles from
Lincoln. He removed to Lincoln where he manufactured farm machinery
for eight years, then he removed to Chamberlain, S.D. and engaged
in the hotel business until 1891, when he came to Hot Springs and
conducted the Parrott Hotel for one year, until he became associated
in the management of the Wind Cave.
Such in brief
is the life of genial companionable John Stabler. All who have visited
the Wind Cave during the past several years and had “Honest
John”, as he was (sic) familarily known, as their guide through
the cave, will most pleasantly recall his happy stories and interesting
descriptions of the various chambers and passageways of the cave.
He was an entertainment himself. It is thought that the worry and
contention over the legal controversy concerning the cave had something
to do in bringing on his disease. He was a hard worker, and only
something over a year ago was one of the most robust and vigorous
men in this community.
Funeral services
were held at the M.E. church Monday afternoon, attended by Silas
A. Strickland post G.A.R. of which the deceased was a member, and
also by a large number of friends. Rev. Dr. Robinson preached a
brief but appropriate sermon, after which the remains were laid
to rest in Evergreen (sic) Cemetary with military honors.
Besides his
widow he leaves two sons and two daughters to mourn his death. The
Star joins numerous friends in extending sympathy to the bereaved
ones.
(There are two
errors in this clipping. 1. Married in 1866. 2. Had three daughters.)
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Katie Stabler,
was the daughter of John Stabler, and was one of the early cave
explores and guides at Wind Cave. She provided this rememberance
of her family and her days at Wind Cave as a young woman.
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