Carolina
Arizpe was born just south of San Antonio, Texas. Taught by her mother
to make tortillas, Carolina began working with her in a tortilla factory
at the age of fourteen. After work they would make more at home and sell
them. Carolina enjoys making tortillas, and would like to have her own
tortilleria some day.
According to Carolina, tortillas made in this old-fashioned way are not really fattening, and have health-giving vitamins which are removed by modern mechanical processes. We can vouch for the fact that Carolina's tortillas taste better than anything that ever came from a machine.
Corn Tortillas
According to a story told in Mexican - American households, Cortez, the conquistador met with an emissary of the great Moctezuma and proceeded to extol the glory of his sovereign, Charles V. "My emperor is so wealthy that he eats off a special golden service which only he may use," said Cortez. "My emperor, Moctezuma," replied the Aztec, "uses a different spoon for each bite." Moctezuma's spoons, las cucharitas de Moctezuma, were, of course, corn tortillas.
Since
earliest times, thin cakes of corn have been a staple of the Mexican diet.
Made of kernels that have been lightly soaked in a lime mixture and then
ground on a stone metate to form a dough or masa, fresh tortillas traditionally
accompany each meal. In many households they are still patted out by hand,
and for countless centuries the soft slap, slap of tortilla making has
been a familiar domestic sound wherever Mexicans have gone. Nowadays, of
course, there are tortilla factories all over Mexico and the United States,
and many homes have tortilla presses. However, the handmade tortilla is
still considered by many to taste better and be more wholesome.
The
tortilla is a versatile food. Fresh and hot, it is used as an edible spoon
and pusher. Slightly stale, it is dipped in a rich sauce to form a base
for enchiladas. Fried, it becomes a taco shell, a platform for a tostada,
or a chip with which one can scoop up beans or salsa. The raw masa can
be mixed with cheese or chile and cooked to form other dishes. Among these
are the locally favored flat enchiladas, which are not enchiladas at all,
but fried cakes of a special masa served in a red chile sauce.
Of course, there are many different kinds of corn tortilla. The ones demonstrated here at Tumacacori are called gorditas chicas, or "little fat ones". They aren't really suitable for enchiladas, but are delicious when split, lightly fried, and served with various meat fillings.