Featured object

Man's Waistcoat, 1790-1795, owned by Elias Hasket Derby

Silk, linen, Silver spangles
Catalog Number SAMA 938

For an eighteenth century gentleman, a waistcoat was a vital part of his wardrobe. Worn over a white linen or cotton shirt and under a coat, a waistcoat added warmth and style to a formal suit. In the eighteenth century, men's clothing was as highly decorated as women's, and a waistcoat was no exception. Since a gentleman would never take his coat off during a social occasion, waistcoats were most highly decorated in the areas that would be seen: along the center front, the lower front edges, and on the pocket flaps.

This waistcoat was probably embroidered by a professional seamstress, most likely in France. The seamstress would embroider the designs of the pieces of the waistcoat on a large piece of silk, including the pocket flaps, collar edges, and for some waistcoats even covers for buttons. The whole piece of silk would then be sent off, and a gentleman would purchase it and take it to his own tailor. The tailor would cut out the pieces of the waistcoat, make a lining and back out of silk or linen, then fit the completed garment.
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