Jedediah Smith's Journals Across the Mojave
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(Here you can read the actual journal of Jedediah
Smith journey to California in 1826-27. He was looking for new sources
of beaver, to feed the European market for felt hats. He largely failed
in this goal, but the journals themselves are a fascinating glimpse into
this era.
Jedediah and his party came down from what is now Utah, followed the Colorado River to the Mojave Indian villages just above present day Needles, then crossed inland to the Mexican controlled San Gabriel mission. Here they were arrested, and Jedediah taken to San Diego before he was finally freed. They then headed north, where he became the first United States citizen to cross the Sierra Nevada Mountains. It was an incredible adventure. The portion excerpted below are the journal entries for trip between
the Colorado River and the San Bernardino Mountains. The bulk of the passage
was through what is today the Mojave National Preserve. For those who want
to skim, I have bolded the more interesting sections, and added explanatory
details in parentthesis. A map of Mojave National Preserve will help
you navigate.)
I had lost a good may horses and some of those remaining were not able to carry anything. I got the Indians to assist me in moving down to where there was several lodges. The Indians are quite a different nation from the Pa utch (Piute). They call themselves A-muc-ha-ba's (Mojave Indians) and appeared quite friendly bringing me corn beans dried pumpkins &c which I paid them for in Beeds Rings vermillion &c. At this place there is considerable timber on the river and the soil might admit of making small farms. There was but 3 or 4 horses among them but I did not succeed in purchasing them. verry little beaver sign on the river. By enquiry I found that the principal part of this tribe were 30 or 40 miles down the river. I remained at this place 2 days during which time a number of Indians came up from the village below. Among these were one or two that could talk spanish and as I had a man that was able to speak the spanish I could hold some conversation with them. I then moved on down the River accompanied by the Indians who had come up from the settlements below. The distance was upwards of thirty miles and the country barren. On my arrival at the settlement I was treated with great kindness. Melons and roasted pumpkins were presented in great abundance - At this time it was low water yet the Colorado was 200 yards and in the shoalest place I could find 10 feet deep with a smooth current. The timber in this vicinity consisting of the Cottonwood and a small species of Honey Locust with some willow extends entirely along the river varying in width from ½ to 2 ½ miles in width the river winding through woodland from one side to the other alternately. Leaving the woodland which has a tolerable soil the sandy region commences producing nothing but sedge and prickly pear. On the East and West at the distance of ten miles a chain of rocky hills run parallel with the river and about thirty miles south the Rocky hills close in to the River. This settlement of the Amuchaba's extending about 30 miles along the River appeared quite numerous and paying some considerable attention to agriculture they do not live in villages but are rather scattered over the country generally whereever they find the most favorable situations. In person these Indians are tall and well formed complexion not dark. In abilities perhaps second to the Utas. They do not appear much inclined to steal but are quite fond of gambling. Their principal Game is conducted as follows. A piece of ground 30 or 40 feet long and 8 feet wide is made level and smooth. Each man has a pole ten feet long and one of them a hoop 4 inches in diameter. The hoop is set rolling from one end of the floor and at the instant both start and sliding their poles endeavor to intersect the hoop. The one that pierces the hoop or when hoop and poles stop is the nearest to the spot is the winner. The women also gamble by tossing small colored sticks in a dish somewhat like throwing dice. The women are generally very fleshy with tolerable features. The man when dressed at all have a Spanish Blanket thrown over the left shoulder and passing under the right arm it is pined on the breast with a wooden pin. They wear no head dress mocasins or leggings. The dress of the women is a peticoat made of a material like flax just Broken which is Banded with a plat on the upper edge like corn husks. It is fastened around the waist extending down to the knee and constitutes with whole of their clothing. They are in general much more cleanly than the Pautch. They make a kind of earthen ware and in large crocks of this they boil their beans corn pumpkins &c. The men appear to work as much in the field as the women which is quite an unusual sight among Indians. But few of them have bows and arrows. The bows are 5 feet long and the arrows verry long and made of cane grass with a wooden splice 6 inches long for a head. It is fashion with these indians to fill the hair full of mud and wind it around the head until the top resembles in shap a tin pan. Their summer Lodges about 3 feet high are made of forks and poles covered with grass weeds and dirt flat on the top. The winter Lodges generally small are made in the woods but fronting to the south and where the trees are not sufficiently high to keep out the sun. As the rainy season approaches they throw dirt on the roof to give it a slope to carry off the water and also secure the sides with dirt leaving only a small aperture for a door. As they have not much clothing when the weather requires it they build a great many small fires seeping int he intervals between them. When they become cold they draw the sand out from under fires and spread it where they sleep. In the Lodges I observed an abundance of Crocks and demijohns. Goards and small bins made of willow in which they put their corn, beans, wheat, garden seeds, and melons. The Honey Locust of this country bears a pod somewhat longer than a bean. The Indians gather these and pound both the pod and the bean it contains until it forms a coarse flour. they work it into loaves and Let it dry it s then fit for use. When they use it they rinse it with water to which it imparts a sweet and yet tartish taste by no means unpleasant. I frequently observed at a distance from their houses willow bins that would hold 20 to 100 Bushels filled with the Locust pods from which circumstances I judged them not much inclined to steal from each other. Their method of grinding their wheat is somewhat tedious. On a large flat stone a little concave it is pounded or rather rolled with another stone in the shape of a bakers rolling pin until it is sufficiently fine. The stone on which the grinding is done being placed in a sloping possition gradually as the meal becomes fine it is permitted to slide off into a dish at the lower end. The bread which they form of theis meal is baked in the sand or ashes under the fire without the covering of Bark or grass used by the Pawnees. When they would roast their Pumpkins or Squashes which is common method of cooking them, the take a plug from the side extract the seeds from the hole and replace the Plug by which means they may roast them as neatly as if they were entire. I found in this vicinity no beaver worth trapping for but remained here for the purposes of recruiting my men and horses. From the Indians I ascertained that below the rocky hills that came into the river and nearly down to the mouth of the Gila the country was barren and not inhabited. they also told me that it was about ten days travel to the spanish setlements in California. I swaped my poorest horses with the indians and endeavored to purchase others but without success. One morning an Indian came to me ans said the Indians had killed one of my horses which on examination I found to be true. They had killed the horse to eat and took away everything but the entrails. from this time I had my horses so carefully guarded that they had no chance to continue their depredations. Believing it impossible to return to the deposit at this season and in my present situation I determined to prepare myself as well as possible and push forward to California where I supposed I might procure such supplies as woul[d] enable me to move on north. In that direction I expected to find beaver and in all probability some considerable river heading up in the vicinity of the Great Salt Lake (This was the legendary Buenaventura River, which early explorers were sure ran between the Great Salt Lake and the coast of California). By this route I could return to the deposite. In pursuance of my plan I endeavored by all means in my power to procure a guide but could not succeed. I therefore got the best instruction I could in regard to the route and collected a supply of Corn, Beans, Locust Bread, and a little Indian flour. Having remained at this place about 8 days I made a raft and crossed the river and for the first day traveled nearly west passing through the Rocky hills by a deep ravine which brought me through to the plain then a little north of west 15 miles to another range of hills where I found water and cane grass and encamped (He crossed the Colorado River near site of Fort Mohave, later a U.S. Army post. The Rocky Hills are the Dead Mountains, and the camping spot Fort Piute in the Piute Mountains). At night the most valuable horse I had was stolen for although I had a guard yet it was so dark that the horse was led out unperceived. The next day I travelled west through the range of hills to the plain (Lanfair Valley) where the trail could not be followed and where I was obliged to encamp without water. I had supposed that I should be able to follow the trail from the directions given by the indians which being found impracticable and a great scarcity of water becoming more apparent I rode and sent others to the high hills and deep ravines in every direction to Look for water and as none could be found the Idea came forcibly to mind that it was the policy of the Indians to send me into the desert to perish. In this situation I saw no alternative but to retrace my steps. on my way back I found an Indian and a boy following our trail for some purpose unknown to me. They had water with them which would convey the Idea that the country where I turned back was for some distance destitute of it. On seeing us one of them ran off I did not pursue him but kept the other with me until I got to the spring where I had before encamped. It will be readily imagined that by this time we were much in want of water. During the night the Indians ran off. The next day I moved to the river and found that the Indians had all gone from the Loges leaving everything the could not carry off. It was now prudent to prepare for the worst which I did by making a pen for my horses and encamping under a bank of the Rover which would answer as a breastwork in the emergency which the singular conduct of the indians led me to expect. However the little renegade Francisco (that spoke spanish) came to the opposite bank of the river in the morning and after hallowing plunged in and swam over. I asked the reason of the singular behaviour of the Indians. He said the Indians that got away from me told them I was coming back to kill them all for stealing my horse. To this I answered that it was all folly to tell them to return and be friendly as usual. It was true I must have my horse but I would not think of punishing the whole of them for the fault of the single scoundrel that stole him. I also told him to tell the chiefs that they must get the horse and bring him to me in which event all would be well. Francisco left me and in the evening the Indians returned to their Lodges. The chiefs came to see me and said that the Indian that stole my horse had gone off some distance but that they would have him back as soon as possible and oblige him to deliver the horse. They wished me to recross the river and as the grass was poor at that place I complied with their request and after crossing moved down the river about ten miles where the settlement is also considerable and the country like that above with the exceptions that there are some small prairaes of tolerable good sandy soil producing Melons and corn and some ponds and slous in which portions of the river run in high water. The grass at this place was much better than at any place above and the productions the same as those mentioned before though perhaps in greater abundance than in the upper part of the settlement. Their wheat is planted in hills. As they have no fences what few horses they have are kept constantly tied by a long halter and at this season are fed on Pumpkins and melons of which they appear verry fond. The ride without saddle or Bridle but by the help of a wide Circingle under which the slip their feet they are enabled to sit firmly. Melons were supplied in such numbers that I had frequently 3 or 400 piled up before my tent. A great many women and children were generally about us. Among the Amuchabas I did not find any very influential chiefs. He that has the most wives and consequently the most numerous connexion is the greatest man. There was one chief we called Red Shirt from the circumstance of his wearing a shirt made out of a piece of red cloth which I had given him. He was about 40 years of age and appeared to be a great favorite among women. He frequently stayed at my tent and slept with any of the women he chose. No indians I have seen pay so much deference to the women as these. Among indians in general they have not the privilege of speaking on a subject of any moment but here they harangue the Multitude the same as the men. While here Francisco came to see me and requested I would go and see a man who was very sick. I told him I was no Physician but these indians thinking a white man can do anything I was obliged to go to satisfy them. When I arrived at the spot 3 or 400 people were assembled but the man was dead. Seeing a large pile of wood I enquired of the interpreter the meaning he informed they were about to burn the corpse which was soon brought and placed on the pile, and also a small bag of net work containing his property. It appeared the man had died from the swelled neck a disorder I think quite common here as I observed many with their necks much scarified a remedy which appeared to have been applied to the case of the deceased as there was a good deal of Blood on his neck. Two or three women were crying and screaming and came to the pile apparently in the greatest agony embracing the corpse. They were pulled off and fire was put to the pile which was soon in flames. I left them but Francisco told me the deceased had two horses which were already killed and on them the people would now feast. It being a great object with me to procure a guide no means were left untried and finally I succeeded in engaging two Indians that lived in the vicinity of the Spanish Settlement. The stolen horse having been returned I moved to the proper point and crossed over the River for the purpose of making anohter attempt to cross the plain to California. Having remained at the Amuchabas several days. The first day I traveled the course as on the preceeding attempt and encamped at the same spring (Piute Springs). The next day on the same route till I came to the place where I had before lost the trail then traveling a little north of west and passing some detached hills on the right and at its foot a small spring where I encamped. In the vicinity was some gravelly hills on which there was a little grass where I turned my horses. The next day started early steering W N W crossing some ridges and passing some hills on our left. Just before night at the foot of a small hill we found a little spring or rather hole of water furnishing a verry inadequate supply for after taking out some to cook with I let the horses to it and they drank it all. As there was no grass I was under the necessity of tieing my horses to keep them from running away. The next morning starting early a N W course about I O Clock I came to a little ravine in which was some grass and a spring here I encamped. The country since leaving the Colorado has been a dry rocky sandy Barren desert. As my guides informed me that we had a hard days travel to make I moved off early keeping west down the ravine 5 miles Then S W and W S W till one O Clock when I came to border of a salt plain and at this place found some holes of Brackish water. The water was in holes dug about two feet deep and quite brackish making some new holes I found the water some better The Salt Plain I had passed during the day was about 15 miles long and from four to six miles wide. Entirely Level and destitute of vegetation. Presenting a surface of sand the most beautiful Salt was found in many places and within two or three inches of the surface. I ascertained that although the salt was found in a Layer it did not extend throughout the plain (crossing Soda Dry Lake). In passing the plain pieces of the salt were frequently throw out by the feet of the horses. The Layer was about ¾ of an inch thick and when the sand was removed from it I found the salt pure white with a grain as fine as table salt. The next day W S W 8 or 10 miles across a plain and entered the dry Bed of a River on each side high hills (they are entering Afton Canyon). Pursuing my course along the valley of this river 8 or 9 miles I encamped. In the channel of the river I occasionally found water. It runs from west to east alternately running on the surface and disappearing entirely in the sands of its bed leaving them for miles entirely dry. near the place where I entered its Bed it seemed to finally lose itself in the plain.* (*It is perhaps reasonable to suppose that the Salt Plain has been formed by the waters of this river overflowing the level country in its freshets and in the dry season sinking in the sand and Leaving a deposit of salt on the surface. The waters of the River at this place are sufficiently salt to justify this conclusion.) At this time my provision was nearly exhausted although I thought I had provided enough to last me 10 or 12 days. But men accustomed to living on meant and at the same time travelling hard will Eat a surprising quantity of corn and Beans which at this time constituted our principal subsistence. One of my guides said he know where his people had a cache of some provision and the next day as I traveled on he went with one of the men to procure some at night they returned bringing something that resembled in appearance loaves of bread weighing each 8 or 10 pounds. It was so hard that an ax was required to break it and in taste resembled Sugar Candy. It was no doubt sugar but in that imperfect form in which it is found among nations to which the art of granulation is unknown. On enquiry I found it was made from the cane grass which I have before spoken of on adams River and the same of which the Amuchabas make their arrows. For three days nothing material occurred. Our course was up the River which sometimes run in sight and then for miles disappeared in the sands. In places I found grass and the Sugar Cane and in some places small cotton wood. I also saw the tracks of horses that had been here during the summer. My guides Belonged to a tribe of indians residing in the vicinity called the wanyumas (Vanyume), not numerous for this barren country could not support them.. At this place was some sign of Antelope and Mt sheep Mr. Rogers killed an Antelope which tasted quite strong of wormwood. On the 4th night from the salt plain an Amuchaba indian that had come this far with me disappeared. I suppose he had become tired of the journey and returned. My guides had expected to find their families here but were disappointed. The next day still following the course of the River which had a strong
current in places 20 yes in width and in others entirely disappeared in
the sands. After a long days travel I arrived late at a wan yu ma Lodge.
close by were 2 or three families of the same tribe. Here I remained the
following day and in the mean time was well treated by these indians. They
gave us such food as they had consisting of a kind of mush made of acrons
and pine nuts bread made of a small berry. This bread in appearance was
like corn bread but in taste much sweeter. As there were in the neighborhood
a plenty of hares the Indians said they must give us a feast. Several went
out for this purpose with a net 80 or 100 yards long. Arriving at a place
where they knew them to be plenty the net was extended among the wormwood.
then divided on each wing they moved in such direction as to force the
frightened game to the net where they were taken while entangled in its
meshes. Being out but a short time they brought in 2 or three doz a part
of which they gave me. seeing some tracks of antelope Mr. Rogers and myself
went and killed 2. It this vicinity there are some groves of Cotton wood
and in places Sugar Cane and grass. On the following day after making the
indians some presents I moved on keeping a right hand fork my course nearly
S W passing out at the head of this creek and over a ridge I entered a
ravin running S W I proceeded down it nearly t where it entered some high
hills which were apparently covered with pine. At this place I encamped.
In the course of the days I passed hills covered with a scattering growth
of Bastard Cedar and bushy Oak. Some antelopes were seen in the course
of the day and the tracks of Bear and Black tailed Deer.
(Here the party crosses the mountains and enters the coastal plains.
They traveled to San Gabriel mission and the small pueblo of Los Angeles)
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