III. DEVELOPMENT OF SERVICES AND FACILITIES (1908-21) A. Roads and Trails 1. Access needs After the park was established, the principal administrative necessities were the protection of the ruins and the improvement of trails in order to make the park more accessible to the public. Before the construction of park roads, at least two routes were feasible to reach the ruins from the town of Mancos. One could drive down Mancos Canyon at a point not far from the mouth of Webber Canyon and from there proceed on horseback along an Indian trail to the mouth of Cliff Canyon, and from there up to the top of the plateau to a point from which the principal ruins of the Chapin Mesa could be easily reached. One could also drive west from Mancos by the Cortéz road to the top of the divide between the Mancos and Montezuma valleys, and, turning to the left there, pass around south of the base of Point Lookout, beyond which vehicles could no longer be used. From there one had to proceed on horseback or foot by a trail leading up through a gap in the rim of the mesa to the top of the plateau at the head of Prater Canyon. From there it was from three to four hours ride over an almost level mesa top to Spruce Tree House, from which Cliff Palace and Balcony House could be reached in a half hour's ride. This last route was considered by Dr. Hewett to be the most feasible one for a wagon road. Its last part, that from Mancos to the base of Point Lookout, would require no expenditure by the government since a great part of it was already a county road, and doubtless all that part leading up to the park line would be built and maintained by Montezuma County. That part of the road on top of the mesa would be very inexpensive since it was on an almost level table land, would pass around the heads of the canyons, and then along the top of the plain to Spruce Tree House. No canyons would have to be crossed and no bridges built. It was recognized that the expensive part of the road would be from the base of Point Lookout to the top of the mesa. The elevation to be overcome at Point Lookout was not known, but Surveyor George Mills, who ran the Ute Reservation boundary line, considered Hewett's route the most practical for a wagon road to the ruins. [1] During his trip to the park in 1906, Acting Superintendent Leonard made several observations about the existing trails leading to the ruins. From the top of the mesa to Spruce Tree House, about eight miles distant, there was a pony trail, nearly level all the way. Thick forest of cedar and piñon and their branches were for a great distance interlaced over the trail, "making travel on horseback very disagreeable, one having to dodge the branches constantly." From Spruce Tree House to Balcony House and Cliff Palace, a distance of about four miles, there was also a pony trail two or three feet wide, but rougher. [2] Acting Superintendent Werner favored the route for a wagon road suggested by Hewett and Mills, but went further and recommended a road on top of the mesa to connect most of the ruins. This road, down the edge of Spruce Tree and Navajo Canyons, would connect Spruce Tree House, Little Long House, Square Tower House, Casa Colorado, then across to Cliff Palace and Balcony House in Soda Canyon. [3] No great number of visitors to Mesa Verde was to be expected until the park was made accessible by proper roads and trails. In order to prepare for travel during the season of 1908, the principal road trail leading to the ruins was repaired and improved. If the park was ever to fulfill the purposes for which it was created, informed Superintendent Randolph in his first annual report, it was absolutely necessary to build a road for carriages and other vehicles from the park boundary on the north to the principal ruins. Comparatively few travelers, he noted, were willing to undertake the long and difficult horseback ride, up a steep and dangerous trail, to reach the ruins. No matter how great might be their interest in the remarkable ruins of antiquity, they did not feel like undergoing the hardships and expense which had to be incurred to reach them. Because of lack of a suitable road, the expense of conducting the excavations, developing the water supply, and improvements of every kind, was very high. All supplies, tools, and materials had to be transported by means of pack animals. [4] In the fall of 1907 Surveyor Mills, under contract with the Department, started to survey a practical route for a wagon road from the northern boundary of the park through the reservation and a portion of the 5-mile strip to the Spruce Tree House. The line of survey, completed in the spring of 1908, was along the center of the roadway, tied to section corners, when they were found, within half a mile of the section crossing or township line. It had sections at every 100 feet properly marked with numbered wooden pegs. Station 0 of the survey was located at Windy Point, atop the high ridge directly below Point Lookout, and from that point moved westward. [5] 2. Wagon road and trails C. B. Kelly, of Mancos, was contracted by Superintendent Randolph to build the wagon road. By the fall of 1908, six miles of carriage road following the Mills survey had been constructed north from near the northern rim of Spruce Tree House up to the top of Chapin Mesa. This portion of road was inexpensive and easily constructed since it passed through the almost level plateau. The principal work consisted of removing from the roadway the piñon and cedar trees with which the mesa top was covered, and doing a small amount of grading. To facilitate construction of this portion of the wagon road, and to transport materials and supplies to Spruce Tree Camp,
Also completed by the fall of 1908 was the portion of the road from the foot of the mesa up the west side of Point Lookout. Work continued during 1909 on the Point Lookout grade and by July 1911, three and one-half miles had been completed to the head of Morfield Canyon. By September, the government had completed a road from Station 0, on the north boundary of the park, to the head of School Section Canyon, a total distance of approximately seven miles from Point Lookout. This road, while not yet formally opened to tourist travel, was passable by wagon and afforded a scenic view of striking beauty. There remained to be constructed a little more than six miles of road to connect it with that portion of the road built northward from Spruce Tree Camp along Chapin Mesa. This break in the road was located nearly in the center of the wagon road route. [7] Under Randolph, a trail system was also finished connecting Spruce Tree House, Cliff Palace, Square Tower House, and Balcony House. However, he suggested another carriage road wholly upon the mesa, touching the points of greatest scenic and historic interest. Because of the great depth of the canyons cutting the mesa from north to south, Randolph wrote, the expense of building a road to some of the most interesting ruins in the western part of the park was too great to be undertaken at the time. But trails could be built from Spruce Tree House to the important ruins of Garfield (Rock) Canyon and its tributaries, and bring them within four hours' ride of the former ruin. [8] Heavy rains caused great damage to the constructed sections of the wagon road, and more particularly to those portions cut into the shale and soft soil on the more precipitous slopes of the mesa. Heavy slides of earth blocked the road at different places and huge boulders, falling from the heights above in some instances carried away parts of the road bed. Because of the condition of the roads and trails, it took an entire day to travel from Mancos to the ruins. Feed for the horses, water bags and food had to be carried on each trip. [9] It was utterly impossible to promote heavy tourist travel to the ruins under those circumstances. The Denver and Rio Grande Railroad had tentatively promised that excursion rates to the park would be made as soon as the main wagon road was completed and the running of excursion trains thereby justified. There was already talk about having adequate roads in the park to permit automobile traffic. [10] There was some pessimism also about the worthiness of the road in progress and the future development of the park. During the first conference at Yellowstone of departmental officials and other persons interested in the development and administration of the national parks, R. B. Marshall, Chief Geographer of the Geological Survey, read the following speech about Mesa Verde:
Road construction continued at a rapid pace. The section of the road from the head of Morfield Canyon under the Knife Edge and over the ridge to the head of Moccasin Canyon was completed in 1911. This section of the road was referred to as the "Decker Road," since it was constructed by Nathaniel A. Decker, a contractor from Mancos. [12] In July 1912 a road was completed from the north boundary down the east side of the ridge extending north from under Point Lookout to connect with the Mancos-Cortéz road, seven and one-half miles west of Mancos. [13] Also, in 1912, construction was undertaken of the remaining six-plus miles of road between the head of Moccasin Canyon and the west fork of Little Soda Canyon. This section of the road was completed by the middle of 1913, and on July 13, Jose R. Córdova, of Bloomfield, New Mexico, drove the first 4-horse wagon load of 13 visitors over the new carriage road to the rimrock campsite overlooking the head of Spruce Tree Canyon. [14] On November 17, Superintendent Shoemaker wrote: "Since last August, by actual count, there have been sixty vehicles, two and four-horse teams, over the roads and into the first ruins." [15] 3. Morfield Road automobile traffic Before the completion of the wagon road, Superintendent Shoemaker had proposed a by-pass road to abandon about five miles of the former which had very steep grades and was exceedingly dangerous on account of the overhanging rim rock and the steepness of the hill on which it was built. This meant that the scenic Knife Edge Road would be abandoned. The by-pass road, started in 1913, would leave the park road at the head of Morfield Canyon, run south for four miles, then cross the divide into Prater Canyon, then climb up out of Prater Canyon and meet the park road at the head of Moccasin Canyon, a total distance of nine miles. This was the so-called "Spencer Road," from the name of the contractor, George Spencer, of Mancos. [16] Morfield Canyon Road would make travel to the park safer, but the business interests of Mancos did not favor the by-pass. A committee was appointed by the Mancos Commercial Club to investigate the needs and changes in the existing road to the park. In a report sent to the Secretary, the committee members stated that the greatest need of the park was the completion of an adequate highway. Upon examination, they found that the appropriation of 1913 had been spent on the Morfield Canyon Road that made a detour of approximately nine miles from the Mills survey, thereby increasing the distance that visitors had to travel to reach the ruins by more than six miles. Of these nine miles of new road, only six were completed, and it would require the expenditure of a large amount of money and many weeks of work to finish the road. This new road, they argued, had no practical value as a scenic route. As a park highway it was not desirable because it followed "a dreary route along the courses of the canyons." The old roadKnife Edgefollowing Mills' survey, on the other hand, was an ideal parkway, and its value as a scenic route was unsurpassed. [17] About the same time that the Mancos Commercial Club was complaining about the new road, Congressman Taylor called the attention of the Secretary to complaints from visitors to Mesa Verde. Their main grievance was that it was an unjust hardship to prohibit travelers from entering the park in automobiles. Several of the prominent citizens of Cortéz and Mancos had written Taylor about this matter. Superintendent Rickner favored the use of automobiles since the roads were in suitable condition. The Secretary answered Taylor that cars would be allowed as soon as the Morfield Canyon Road was completed. On May 25, 1914, Rickner informed the Secretary that the road was ready. [18] In preparation for the use of automobiles, the different portions of the main road were improved. The Decker Road was cleared and graded, but it was still very narrow and had some very steep grades. Others were widened and the curves straightened as much as the means at hand allowed. On May 28, Superintendent Rickner made the first trial trip with automobiles to the park. It was successful in every way and demonstrated that cars could safely make the trip. Six carstwo Studebakers, two Fords, one Hupmobile, and one Reowith 25 persons, went over the road from Mancos to Spruce Tree Camp using the Morfield-Prater Canyon by-pass. As frequent stops were made along the way to take pictures, no time was recorded for the incoming run, but the cars made the return trip in three hours. [19] As other car owners and tourists were anxious to make the trip by auto, Rickner wanted to open the park to automobile travel as soon as possible. Team owners and liverymen feared that admission of autos would cause a decrease in the travel by horse power, hence their strong opposition to automobiles. A Mr. A. B. Hardin was a sort of spokesman for the group and wrote to the Secretary about the subject. [20] Park roads, to be kept in good shape, had to be dragged quite often. Portions of the road became filled with earth and boulders, making travel impossible, and putting all park people to work. Teams and saddle horses passing over the roads during a rain, or immediately after, cut up the roads very badly. In muddy places the wheels sank half way to the hubs. As a protection, all travel was prohibited over the park roads when they were wet or muddy; driving of loose stock in herds of more than 15 head was also prohibited. [21] June 20 was the day set for opening the park to automobile travel with formal opening and celebration to be held on July 4. [22] Autos and motorcycles were admitted to the park and were allowed to make trips to the ruins via Morfield-Prater Canyon by-pass. A fee of $1.00 was charged for private automobiles for one trip or $5.00 for a season privilege; the season for motor vehicles was from May to November 1. The use of automobiles was governed by a set of regulations adapted from those of Sequoia National Park. [23] A new road, to replace the old trails from Spruce Tree Camp to Cliff Palace, Balcony House, and Peabody House, was cleared of trees and brush and partially graded, and while a great deal of work was needed on this road, automobiles made the trip to all the important ruins, doing away with the necessity of taking saddle animals into the park. The Knife Edge Road, more scenic and over six miles shorter than the Morfield-Prater Canyon Road, was repaired and continued to be used by the horse-drawn vehicles and saddle horses. [24] In July, 66 persons registered at Spruce Tree Camp, and made the road trip as follows:
After the introduction of automobiles, tourists began to crowd into the park's limited facilities; the machines made good roads essential. By 1916 automobiles were used by most of the visitors, though the horse still made the trip; some parties on horseback liked to follow the more romantic trails instead of the road. From July 1, 1915, to July 1, 1916, the number of visitors registering at Spruce Tree Camp was 1,170, almost double the number of the previous year. The opening of the road from Denver to the southern part of the state had brought many automobile parties from the East, and as this rough road became better, it was expected that many parties from eastern points would make the trip. Travel in the park, of course, depended on the conditions of the roads. [26] 4. Point Lookout roads While the Morfield-Prater Canyon Road was used as the automobile by-pass route, Superintendent Rickner requested funds to maintain the Knife Edge Road in order to eliminate the long drive down Morfield and the steep three-mile grade out of Prater Canyon to the head of Moccasin Canyon. He thought the Knife Edge was too valuable as a scenic route to be abandoned. [27] With the elimination of the Knife Edge Road, attention shifted to the Point Lookout grade. Built at a considerable expense, the portion of the road that passed west of Point Lookout followed the side of a clay erosion bank several hundred feet high, where according to all indications the erosion was more rapid than at any other place in the mesa. Under Point Lookout, the road was cut out of a loose shale, and as the hillside was very abrupt, the cut was deep. Dry weather loosened the shale, and a high wind brought it down into the road. Rain loosened it also, and a shower did the same. In fact, it was constantly moving downward, causing the need for daily repairs. When one of the big overhanging rocks did fall, great damage was done to the road. So far the park had been very fortunate, but if the road was kept up for travel, it was only a matter of time until some car or wagon would be caught in a big slide. From the top of the mesa, the road continued on the outer side of the cliff that was an even more dangerous road than the portion under Point Lookout. In 1914, a rock-slide carried the entire road bed away for several rods. This section of the road was also in the shale, the dangerous part with very threatening rocks overhanging. To go through the Point Lookout section of the road, noted a distinguished park visitor, was a nerve-wracking experience:
It was quite evident that as long as grazing was permitted on top of the mesa, a dual system of roads had to be provided by the park. Thus a new road was proposed to ascend the mesa southeast of Point Lookout which would avoid the hazards of the other road and afford a route which would apparently cost considerably less to maintain. The proposed route was through a country covered by a growth of juniper, piñon and oak brush, all of which were a protection to the road. There were no overhanging rocks to come down, and the roots of the growth held the earth in place. This road would encounter no shale, and would reach the top of the mesa with a grade of no more than 6 percent. It was also suggested that the portion of the road west of Point Lookout could be maintained at a comparatively slight expense as a trail for driving stock up and down the mesa, and the stock should be forbidden on the new road. [28] Meanwhile, all the park roads were improved and kept in shape for automobile travel. Under Point Lookout, however, the road was a real problem due to heavy rains. These washed down earth and stones and often huge boulders that greatly damaged the roadbed. It required the use of gunpowder to remove them. [29] It became necessary in 1916 to install a telephone control system at the Point Lookout grade, making this section of the highway a one-way road. The grade was so steep, the road too narrow and the curves too sharp to permit its use by automobiles going both ways at the same time. This arrangement was very cumbersome. At the foot of the hill, directly under Point Lookout, was a telephone box (No. 5), and the following sign: "Stop: All persons are forbidden passing this point without first calling the Superintendent's office, Phone No. 11." At the top of the hill there was a similar sign and another telephone box (No. 4). Anyone calling in at box 5, on his way into the park, was told whether he could proceed or not. If someone had already called in at the top of the hill (box 4), on his way out of the park, he was given the right of way, and the car at box 5 had to wait until the other car arrived at the foot of the hill and called up the office at Mancos to tell that he was off the road. Then the road was given to the car waiting at the foot of the hill and it was allowed to ascend the grade, calling at box 4. This was required of all passers, and saved the danger of two cars meeting on the grade. [30] Road construction was a problem in all parks. Yosemite and Yellowstone were the only parks with more than a few miles of good roads. One problem with road construction was that Congress voted money in irregular driblets and the parks could build only piecemeal stretches, without any comprehensive plan. It meant poor and in the long run really expensive roads. [31] In his annual report of 1917 Director Mather stated that besides funds for excavation of more ruins and repairs of cliff dwellings, the other greater need of Mesa Verde was a new road for ascending the mesa. In rainy weather, he wrote, the road around Point Lookout was impassable. Rocks and debris from the mountain above were constantly sliding into the middle of the road. Engineers believed that it would never be possible to prevent blocking of the road by debris, and that as long as it was used, the cost of maintaining the park road system would be high; that by building a new road eliminating this ascent to Point Lookout, the cost of maintaining the park road system could be cut at least by one-half or perhaps three-fourths. A new road to ascend the Mesa Verde from the east side of Point Lookout was authorized by Congress in 1917 and completed during the summer of 1919. It left the Mancos-Cortéz highway, passed along the eastern side of Point Lookout, and ascended the mesa by easy grades on the Mancos Valley side of the hill. Besides being free from the dangers of the old road, it gave the tourist a grand view of the Mancos Valley backed by the La Plata Range of mountains. Popularly referred to as the "switchback," this new scenic entrance road crossed the "saddle" (Nusbaum Cut) below Point Lookout and joined the old road at the head of Morfield Canyon. Although frequent and heavy rains made repair work on the old road almost constant during the 1919 season, it was kept open to travel, most of the cars going into the park one way and returning by the other. This choice of roads, giving a different route each way, gave great satisfaction to tourists. Ascending the mesa by the old road gave a grand view of the country to the west and north, and the descent by the new road showed the Mancos Valley and the mountains to great advantage. The old road continued to be controlled by telephone. It was hoped that these routes could be used every year. In this connection, Director Mather said: "It ought to be our policy to maintain the old Point Lookout road in good repair if funds can be made available for the necessary work of upkeep of the highway and control the menacing slide." This section of the road was not abandoned until the construction of the present Point Lookout grade in the late 1920's. [32] Automobiles certainly changed the pattern of travel. By 1918 very few horse-drawn vehicles entered the park. The long, hard drive with team was now reduced to a few hours run with the car, and many parties made the trip to the park, visited a few of the principal ruins, and returned in one day. A larger number of cars carried camping outfits than in former years, and a smaller number of tourists came in by rail. As time passed, a larger number of cars and travelers came from distant states, including New Jersey and New York. [33] For some unknown reasons, wrote Superintendent Rickner, the majority of tourists came to Mesa Verde with the idea that it was a desert land, and that the journey was hard and uninteresting, over an arid, barren country, with the ruins of the cliff dwellers the only points of interest. This erroneous idea prevented many from making the trip to the park, but, as more people were coming in each year, this false view was being gradually corrected. After a visit to the park all visitors carried away memories of a wonderful and beautiful journey. Once on the park road, the traveler turned his back on all signs of the improvements of civilization. He stepped at once into an unbroken wilderness where the road on which he was traveling was the only mark of man's handiwork. As the road passed around the face of the cliff, noted Rickner, one looked across the broad
5. Future roads While the new portion of the entrance road was being constructed, other park roads and trails were opened, and existing ones improved. The roads from Spruce Tree Camp to the different ruins were widened and in many places regraded. A short road was constructed from Sun Temple to a spectacular point on the rim of one of the nearby canyons, thus affording a most unusual view of the ruins, the canyon, and the forests. Three trails were built, all filling long-felt needs of the visitor who delighted in exploring the region. One trail led from Cliff Palace to Community House in Cliff Canyon. A trail to Square Tower House, which passed over a sloping ledge that projected over the canyon, was blasted out and a strong iron railing was placed along the outer edge to protect the tourist and open this interesting ruin to all. Up to this time, one desiring to visit this ruin could only do so by holding to a strong rope anchored above, while passing across this dangerous place. Another trail was located and cleared around the southern end of Chapin Mesa, by way of Navaho, Soda, and Cliff Canyons, to Inspiration Point. Still another one was being located from Spruce Tree Camp to the Rock Springs section, in the western part of the park. [35] Several other important roads were suggested by Superintendent Rickner during this period. He suggested a road from Station 64, at the head of Morfield Canyon, to the top of Point Lookout. This would be a side trip, and would be taken by all, either on entering the park or on the return. The level space on the very outmost point of the hill would provide ample space for cars to turn, and the view obtained in all directions would be unobstructed. Many tourists left their cars at Station 64 and walked the short distance to the summit, "and no one should leave the park without having seen the view from this point." [36] Now that there was fairly convenient and safe access to the park, and other urgent improvements in the highway system had been completed, park officials were certainly justified in planning further development of the park by road extensions. The unique topography of the park and the scenic features of the Mesa Verde suggested two new highway routes if there had not been more prehistoric structures worthy of being made accessible to the public. However, both of these routes would also open exceedingly worthwhile exhibits of ancient architecture. Rickner explained both routes in his annual report of 1919:
In connection with the suggested roads, the Director wrote:
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