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Lava Beds National Monument

HISTORY & CULTURE
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The Modoc Way
Conflict: The Modoc War
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J.D. Howard:  Father of the Lava Beds Monument
The CCC: Building a Better Park

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History & Culture

 Howard and family pose for the camera on a natural bridge.
J. D. Howard, A Monument Legacy

Sometimes the man credited with founding Lava Beds National Monument wished others had never followed his lead.
It was Judson D. Howard - called Judd or J.D. by his friends - who mapped and named many of the Lava Beds lava tube caves. Howard’s relentless efforts also are credited with helping to have the area declared a national monument in 1925.

Howard’s legacy has mostly gone unrecognized except for a plaque placed on a rock outside the entrance to Mushpot Cave. Although park files contain some information on his explorations and discoveries, he remains something of an enigma. The only mark he left behind are names he painted inside many of the caves he named. Howard contributed the earliest photographs of cave interiors, but shied away from other’s cameras.

People who knew J.D. picture him as a physically unimposing man. Cal Peyton, who lived across the street from Howard in Klamath Falls, remembers his as being about 5’5” tall and 130 pounds. "He walked with short steps and he could walk you into the ground. You’d think the frail critter would play out and you’d have to carry him home, but if anybody was carried home, it would be you."

Carol Howe, writing about Howard in his book, Frontier Stories of the Klamath Country, described Howard as "a short dumpy-looking fellow whose clothes were neither neat nor stylish."

No matter how he’s pictured, Howard was peculiarly suited to the Lava Beds. He moved to Klamath Falls in 1916 to work as a miller for Maritin Brothers Milling Company. A native of Fort Atkinson, Iowa, he grew up in the Midwest, eventually studying chemistry at the school that later became the Colorado School of Mines, specializing in flour chemistry. He came west in the early 1900s, working in Los Angeles before moving to Oregon.

Much of Howard’s work was at the Martin Brothers Mill in Merrill. From there he often walked to the Lava Beds region, where he was befriended by some of the rugged individuals who lived in the sparsely settled country.

"He went all the time," recalls Jean Puckett, a neighbor. "People would come and get him because he didn’t have a car."

Howard’s intimacy with the Lava Beds began Sept. 10, 1917, during a visit with the George Howells family. That first trip set the tone for future journeys as Howard named Fleener Chimneys and Winemas Chimneys and explored several caves. From then on his diaries indicate a continuum of visits. In those early years, Howard often had to crawl on his hands and knees through dense stands of mountain mahogany. Entrances to undiscovered caves frequently were possible only after clearing walls of rock.

But if his travels and discoveries at the Lava Beds were among his delights, among his greatest disappointments was seeing the area destroyed by careless or uncaring visitors. Howard once said, "I am sorry I made a road up to the place. Further, I am sorry I left the entrance to the Catacombs open after I first entered it. I opened it and enlarged it, then began to take visitors there. I should have closed it again and left it unknown as the better stalactites are now gone except in the remote crawlers".

Howard’s perceived need to preserve the lava tubes and the area’s other geological features was a major reason why he vigorously pushed for a federally protected status. Since the creation of Lava Beds National Monument, that protection has been provided. For that, the enigmatic Howard would surely be pleased.
 
 
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