The Commonfields
of St. Louis and Residences
by Thomas C. Danisi
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The earliest houses in St. Louis
stood where the Gateway Arch stands today, built by settlers,
within four blocks of the Mississippi River. Behind them,
to the west, stretched the prairie that became the cultivating
fields for the town's inhabitants. (see
1 - commonfields) Most of these houses had been
demolished by the turn of the 20th century, and in the 1950's,
the last of them disappeared.
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But another group of residences were
built in the cultivating fields, and to understand their significance,
we turn to the founding of St. Louis in 1764. Pierre Laclede
Liguest, who founded St. Louis, chose the place for his fur-trading
post atop a high bank west of the Mississippi River. Behind
the post, a flat grassy prairie stretched into the distance.
Four miles to the south, the prairie rose to a height of two
hundred feet. A large rivulet known as the Petite Riviere
flowed through this prairie land into a large body of water
known as Chouteau’s Pond. (see
- 2 pond) The pond's source lay further west,
in a series of springs that dotted the grassy landscape. Several
large Indian mounds were scattered about the prairie as well
as some outcroppings of limestone. Some of the Indian mounds
were forty feet high and two hundred feet in circumference.
(see - 3 mounds)
Early travelers to the country found it the most idyllic place
in the Spanish province. Its only drawback to attracting a
population was the obvious one--the tiny trading post was
said to be deep in the "howling wilderness."
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The village of St. Louis resembled
a medieval town in Europe. Its habitants lived within the
confines of a fortified village and traveled each day to their
prairie or cultivation fields, which for some were nearly
four miles away. Panoramic drawing
of the village of St. Louis and commonfields in 1798 by Nicolas
de Finiels. Because the cultivating fields were a great
distance from the village, some of the inhabitants built secondary
residences for themselves and their workers in these fields.
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Incoming settlers were provided with
three lots of land. The first lot was the village lot. It
generally measured 150 x 300 feet, but often a settler was
granted a larger lot if it appeared that he or she was industrious
and skillful. The second lot was located in the prairie and
allotted for cultivation. This narrow rectangular lot, known
as the commonfield lot, measured 1x40 arpents--192.5 feet
wide by almost 1.5 miles long. Its shape derived from the
medieval practice of tilling the land in strips and the type
of plow used by the French settlers.(see
- 4 cultivating lot) An inhabitant could be granted
more land in the cultivation field when he requested it, but
the length of the lot remained the same, though its width
changed. The third lot, known as the barn lot, was located
at the rear of the village and was used for storing produce
and grain. It was generally 150 square feet.
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Four major cultivating fields surrounded
the village of St. Louis. The first, directly behind the village,
opened in 1765 and was called the St. Louis Common Field (or
the Commonfield of St. Louis). It was about three miles wide
and contained about eighty strips of land. To the north of
the village lay the Grande Prairie which was opened in 1767.
It was about the same size as the St. Louis Common Field but
shaped in a parallelogram which made it appear larger on the
St. Louis landscape. To the south of the Grand Prairie was
the Cul de Sac Prairie. It was a small field about a half
a mile wide, occupied by about ten farmers. It was joined
on the south by the Prairie des Noyers which was about a mile
across, more rectangular, and held nearly forty strips for
cultivation. It is the present site of the Missouri Botanical
Gardens. (see 5 - botanical garden)
East of the Prairie des Noyers was another large tract of
land known as the St. Louis Commons. (see
6 - Commons and Lafayette park) This tract was
owned by all the villagers in common for the purposes of cutting
firewood, pasturing livestock and hunting game. Never intended
to be sold since it was held in common, its boundaries were
not fixed because its area expanded as the population of St.
Louis grew.
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All of the prairies, at different
times and under various owners, had some houses upon their
commonfield lots. The St. Louis Common Field was closest to
the village and directly west of what is now downtown St.
Louis, but nothing of it remains today. The Grande Prairie
was north of what is now Market Street and Grand Avenue and
extended to Natural Bridge Road. No original structures remain
there today. The Prairie des Noyers, which today borders the
Missouri Botanical Garden, also had dwellings in the beginning
but none remain. To the south of the Grande Prairie was the
small Cul de Sac Prairie which contained the largest section
of the Petite Riviere. Several lot owners had built houses
on their field lots. (see 7 - house
in the cul-de-sac prairie)
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The Cul de Sac Prairie, directly
behind the St. Louis Common Field and the furthest cultivating
field from the village, was nearly four miles away. Though
small compared to the other fields, it had two important advantages.
First, the land was flat and very fertile, and second, there
were a number of springs in the area which fed the Petite
Riviere or little river and flowed into Chouteau’s Pond.
(see 8 - springs)
A commonfield lot with a spring made an ideal site for
a prairie house, and wealthy landowners, who could afford
the additional expense, built small houses with an orchard,
barns and cabins for their slaves and laborers. The main commonfield
house on the cultivating field was known as the plantation
house while the other structures, housing slaves or laborers,
were usually referred to as outhouses or outbuildings. Today,
most of the Cul de Sac Prairie is covered by a railroad yard
which extends from Jefferson Avenue to about Vandeventer Avenue.
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In 1765, Joseph Taillon, a miller,
dammed the Petite Riviere running through his 75 acre property
in the St. Louis Commonfield and built a small mill. A year
later, he sold the land to Pierre Laclede Liguest who enlarged
the tract to about 300 acres and constructed a larger dam.
When Laclede died in 1779, Auguste Chouteau bought the tract
and began to buy out the property owners in both the St. Louis
and Cul de Sac Commonfields. In 1799, Chouteau had amassed
about 1100 acres of land, thereafter referred to as the Mill
Tract. By enlarging the dam further, he created a thirty acre
landmark known for over fifty years as Chouteau's Pond.
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When the Americans arrived in Upper
Louisiana, there were only a handful of maps, or plats, of
the entire territory. The Spanish administration in St. Louis
was not equipped for the complex task of surveying land in
Upper Louisiana. In 1771, a Martin Duralde surveyed the St.
Louis Prairie, but then returned to New Orleans. Auguste Chouteau
drew a plat of the town of St. Louis in 1780, and for a short
period in 1788 Pierre Chouteau, acting in the capacity of
Spanish Surveyor, surveyed the Prairie des Noyers field and
a few private parcels of land. Then during the 1790s various
engineers and cartographers made additional surveys of the
town of St. Louis. In 1795, Antoine Soulard, an engineer and
cartographer, was appointed Surveyor General of Upper Louisiana.
His principal duty was to provide surveys for land grants.
Aside from this, no other surveys were made of the St. Louis
area until 1818 when the Surveyor General's Office of the
United States Government began charting the Missouri Territory.
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Joseph Brown, surveyor for the Missouri
Territory, drew the first township plat of the town of St.
Louis and its prairie fields. Brown's job was to draw a plat
of the current state of land ownership. This plat, designated
TR45 NR7E (township range 45, north range 7 east), however
did not take into account the placement of the original prairies.
(see 9 - 1856 township plat)
Brown pushed the Cul de Sac Prairie west in order to make
room for the Chouteau Mill Tract. This made the Mill Tract
appear to be of earlier origin than the field lots when, in
fact, it was later. When Brown made his plat, he positioned
the Mill Tract where the Cul de Sac Prairie had been located
and then pushed the Cul de Sac field lots west of the Mill
Tract instead of adjoining them to the St. Louis Common Field
where they belonged.
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According to Brown's township plat,
the Cul de Sac Prairie thus began at Vandeventer Avenue instead
of near Jefferson Avenue. This plat changed the location of
the Cul de Sac commonfield lots considerably and at the same
time displaced owners from their rightful land claims. The
Cul de Sac Prairie had a natural dividing line called the
“trait quarre” which separated the Cul De Sac
Prairie from the St. Louis Commonfield. The “trait quarre”
line was a hundred feet west of Jefferson Avenue. (see
10 - prairie dividing line)
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Joseph Alexandre Etienne Motard,
a French fur trader, was granted several tracts of land in
St. Louis. His largest tract, 238 acres, was located in the
Cul de Sac Prairie. From 1768 to 1779, several lots next to
Motard were under cultivation and following Chouteau's lead
in 1779, Motard acquired them and expanded the property southward
and eastward of the “trait quarre” line. (see
11 - Motard's plantation before 1800) In 1800,
when he sold it, Chouteau described the property as a 7x40
arpent tract which contained "a few small houses of little
value."
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Motard's plantation, large for its
time, included a plantation house and outbuildings. With several
arpents under cultivation, he produced wheat and corn, vegetables,
and fruit. The orchard was about three arpents square and
contained apple, peach, and pear trees. Two or three servants
lived on the property, and in some years Motard hired additional
men to help with the cultivation. He went into partnership
in 1794 with another inhabitant and they cultivated together.
Motard was almost eighty years old when he sold the plantation.
Bought by Calvin Adams, an American from Connecticut, for
three hundred dollars payable in wheat, he continued farming
on the property until 1808. (see
12 - Motard/Adams property after 1804)
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One outbuilding remains standing
today, located in what is now Lafayette Square.
(see current location of existing
outbuilding) Converted into a two story house
in 1859, it is not known whether the structure was originally
built as slave quarters, a spring house, or a shelter for
animals. Though its setting has changed from wilderness to
prairie to farm land and finally to city, the house still
reflects its commonfield heritage. Today, it is the last of
its kind--one of the last voices from the prairie.
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Nicolas
de Finiels biography and map.
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