1. Start Across the Road from the Snake River Overlook

Stop at the Register box. Emigrants likely camped and grazed their livestock on this flat. Imagine you are breaking camp and hitching the teams to the wagons for the day's journey ahead.

In making this overland journey, you departed St. Louis, Missouri in April, and it is now July. There is no road other than the trail you are about to trudge along.

The emigrants' stiff leather shoes have no left or right; they are all built with the same shape. Imagine you have walked 1,300 miles, and have another 700 to go. Yes, that's walked! The wagons are jammed with your supplies and meager belongings.

"All who were able walked most of the time as we could easily keep pace with the train. The old people and the little tots rode."

-- Martha Gay Masterson, 1851.

The countryside is bleak; day after day the landscape is sagebrush:

"It all seemed to be a dream, and could hardly be realized. The journey was not yet accomplished by several hundred miles; ...and the route from Fort Hall to this place, of all countries for barrenness I have ever seen, it certainly exceeds any. I doubt if it can be equaled in any part of this continent."

-- Major Osborne Cross, 1849.

This is a difficult journey. The typcial July temperature is 100 degrees mid-day. Seldom is water accessible that's sufficient for drinking, bathing or washing clothes.

"Heat again became oppressive, the dust stifling, and the thirst at times almost maddening. In some places we could see the water of the Snake River winding through the lava gorges, but we could not reach it, as the river ran in the inaccessible depths of the canyon."

-- Ezra Meeker, 1852.

You are beginning to dread leaving this wagon camp of last night. It was so refreshing to go to the Snake River where you dipped your tired feet and carefully washed. It's a cold, fast flowing and dangerous river.

"...while watering, some of the cattle swam over the river. One of the men swam after them, but before he got across sank to rise no more. He left a wife and three small children."

-- Elizabeth Smith, 1847.

It's good the barrels are full because water won't be available for another two days until the Snake River is again reached at the Three Island Crossing. Last night, the oxen fed well on the lush green grass by the River. Tonight the grazing will be sparse. Water is the lifeblood of this desolate country. Even waterfowl gather here because the countless springs keep ice from forming in the Snake River.

"The bank on the opposite side of the river...looked in many places as if it were a solid mass of masonry... We came to where the water burst forth from the rocks in many places, ...and formed a very beautiful cascade in its descent to the river, making the whole scene of beauty seldom to be met with."

-- Charles Preuss, 1843.

You are in the territory of Native Americans the emigrants call the Shoshone, Bannock, and Paiute tribes.

"Here we found Indians, ready to trade salmon for anything we had to spare, but shirts were their greatest want, many of them having only what covering nature furnished."

-- P.V. Crawford, 1851.

The typical bread tasted even better with the fish. What a nice break from the salt pork, rice,and beans.

Matters between the emigrants and Indians have not always remained peaceful over the years.

"One 1851 emigrant who was missing a horse, presumably to Indian thievery, resolved to kill the next Indian he saw. He did -- shooting from behind a rock an unsuspecting Indian who was busy spearing salmon in the Snake River."

-- John Unruh.

Journals do not mention any emigrants were attacked here. The Wagon Master says the United States Cavalry occasionally patrols and protects travelers along the Oregon Trail, but there are too few soldiers for the tremendous number of miles.

"Some of the soldiers came to our camp and talked to us about the country through which we were passing, and told us about the different Indian tribes we would encounter and advised us to treat them kindly."

-- Martha Gay Masterson, 1851.

The emigrants are shooting and scaring away game, and are fouling the water holes. Hostilities are growing between the emigrants and the Indians. At a U.S. Cavalry encampment called Camp Reed established for a short time about five miles upriver and south of Salmon Falls Creek, orders advise:

"In your efforts to clear the section of country of Indians and protect the travel, it would be well to remember, that the sharp and hard chasing is the most effective means that can be employed. Do not permit yourself to be impressed upon by any exhibition of friendliness on the part of the Indians in your vicinity. There are no friendly Indians there. Drive them all off from the road entirely, and pursue and hunt them to their hiding places."

-- Lt. Col. Jno M. Drake to Lt. Currey, Commanding Officer, Camp Reed, August 22 and September 10, 1865.

(Note: Lt. Currey and 20 soldiers in a search and destroy campaign killed three Indians, captured three others, destroyed six fisheries and drove the remaining, frightened Indians into the hills.)

This order is not consistent with many journal entries that say the Indians here are peaceful.

"Most of the soldiers were recruits with little training... [who]earn $15 a month. For the troopers, the day began with reveille at 3 a.m. By 4:30 they were mounted and ready to march."

-- Major Osborne Cross, 1849.

Many men are joining the Army to get paid to come west, and some are tempted to join the emigrants even though the risk is great.

"Private William Huston, Company E, First Oregon Cavalry, deserted on the night of the 26th -- he was shot and killed the next morning by the party sent after him."

-- Dispatch from Lt. Currey, Commanding Officer of Camp Reed to Lt. Col. Jno M. Drake, July 31, 1865.

Fort Hall which you passed more than a week ago, and Fort Boise four days to the West weren't built by the military. They are fur trading posts, and the demand of beaver pelts for hats is dwindling so the "Forts" may not remain open.

Most of the wagons head up the ridge to the north. The Snake River on the other side of that ridge deeply carved its course to form the "Devil's Backbone," barely wide enough for the team of oxen; no one rides in the wagon unless necessary. Surviving that trail segment, a difficult climb for the wagons along the ridge to the top of the plateau remains. You are going up the adjacent canyon to avoid their dust.

"On approaching these bluffs one would suppose that it would be impossible ever to get over them; but, on the contrary, we find out that there are ravines and gorges which, after winding about them for some time, bring us to the top, where the bluffs disappear, and we find ourselves traveling over apparently a level country."

-- Major Osborne Cross, 1849.

...Well, enough jawin'.

http://www.nps.gov/hafo/emiguide1.htm
Last Updated: 24-Jun-1999