Ebey's Landing National Historical Reserve The Land, The People, The Place: An Introduction to the Inventory

THE PEOPLE

"My dear brother -

"I scarcely know how I shall write or what I shall write . . . The great desire of heart is, and has been, to get my own and father's family to this country. I think it would be a great move. I have always thought so . . .

To the north down along Admiralty Inlet . . . the cultivating land is generally found confined to the valleys of streams with the exception of Whidbey's Island . . . which is almost a paradise of nature. Good land for cultivation is abundant on this island.

I have taken my claim on it and am now living on the same in order to avail myself of the provisions of the Donation Law. If Rebecca, the children, and you all were here, I think I could live and die here content."

Colonel Ebey's letter to his brother, W.S. Ebey
Olympia, Oregon
April 25, 1851

The first white settlers to set foot on Central Whidbey Island encountered not a harsh wilderness but a tempered land already altered by human use. As early as 1300, the Skagit Indian tribe had permanent settlements along the shores of Penn Cove at what is now called Monroe's Landing, Snakelum Point and Long Point just east of present-day Coupeville. The Indians found on the island, abundant
natural resources to sustain their community. They routinely cultivated their land by selectively burning to clear prairie areas and by transplanting foodstuffs such as bracken fern and camas.

As European exploration of the Puget Sound area increased, these tribes had more contact with whites, which ultimately lead to their demise. The native population succumbed to diseases such as smallpox and of the 1,500 Indians recorded in the area in 1790, the number tragically diminished to three families in Coupeville by 1904.

White exploration of the Puget Sound area began in the late 1700s. Early reports describing open meadows and natural prairies, abundant timber and dark rich soils did much to advertise the island's natural amenities and soon more white settlers were heading north into the area.

Early Indian settlement along the shores of Penn Cove.

1855 Homestead of Jacob Ebey on the ridge overlooking Ebey's prairie.

The Donation Land Claim Law of 1850 was instrumental in bringing settlers to Central Whidbey. The law offered free land to those willing to homestead and cultivate land for a period of years. One of the first to take advantage of the new law was Isaac Ebey who claimed 640 acres of prairie land in the center of Whidbey Island in October, 1850. Others soon followed, many of them farmers who recognized the value of the land and knew how to work it. Within three years, all of the prairie lands on central Whidbey were claimed and several small farm homes dotted the landscape. Located along ridges near water or property lines, these simple buildings eventually were replaced by more substantial homes as the settlers themselves felt more permanent. Some of these later structures remain today and are provocative reminders of early settlement on the prairies of Central Whidbey.

Farmland was not the only feature that drew settlers to the area. While farms were being carved out of the prairies, a number of sea captains and merchants, mainly from New England, were taking advantage of the island's other valuable resource, timber. Drawn to both the scenic beauty of Penn Cove and its value as a natural harbor, many took donation claims to the forest lands around the cove. Captain Barstow filed a claim on the west end of the cove and soon established a trading post, stocked with goods from San Francisco. Near Barstow's trading post was Dr. R.H. Lansdale's claim of 320 acres. This area came to be known as Coveland, a townsite Dr. Landsdale platted but never filed. In addition to a trading post, Coveland had a post office and the first county courthouse built in 1855, which still stands today.

During these early years, Island County comprised all of the Puget Sound area north of Olympia, and by virtue of its position as County Seat, Central Whidbey played an important role in the politics of Washington Territory. Isaac N. Ebey, the first permanent settler, was active in politics and served as collector of customs for Puget Sound and as district attorney.

Early view of Island County's first courthouse at Coveland.

The evolving farm community outside of Coupeville.

As transportation networks began to evolve, the first overland route in the area was, quite naturally, a road from Ebey's Landing north to Coveland on the opposite side of the island. Travelers from Port Townsend arrived at the landing and often stopped at the Ferry House which served at various times as an inn, tavern, mail station and freight depot. From there, travelers continued to Coveland and made connections to other island communities via Penn Cove. Not until ferry service from Port Townsend was redirected south to Admiralty Head did Ebey's Landing diminish in importance as the primary access point to Central Whidbey.

Grain harvesting on Central Whidbey Island.

Front Street in Coupeville, ca. 1900.

The years between 1880 and 1900 saw the interactions of merchants and farmers develop an economically stable community. Roads were constructed along property lines and between family farms, increasing access and facilitating the movement of goods. General services improved to meet the needs of a growing community and agricultural activities continued as farmers experimented in their search for a stable cash crop. They shifted from grain and potato farming to sheep ranching and eventually returned to grains and potatoes, selling to markets in Seattle and further south.

The growing prosperity of the farmers is evident in the more elaborate homes they built. Technological advances not only made some aspects of farm practice easier, new technology in machine-milled lumber allowed carpenters to construct buildings more intricate in plan and with decorative embellishments. This trend occurred not only in the prairies, it is also evident in the large homes of the merchants being built in Coupeville, in the 1870s.

Coupeville's dominance was assured when Coveland surrendered the County Seat in 1881. Thomas Cranney (Thomas Coupe's son-in-law) platted Coupe's claim in 1883 for a townsite, giving deeds to individuals who had purchased tracts from Coupe. By the time the plat was officially recorded, Coupeville had two hardware stores, a drugstore, three hotels, two saloons, a blacksmith shop, a courthouse, a post office, school houses, a church, and numerous other buildings. Features like orchards, fences, stonewalls and other elements added a dimension of stability to the physical fabric of the growing community.

San de Fuca in its heyday.

One temporary diversion from the slowly accumulating everyday activities of Central Whidbey did occur in the late 1880s. Land speculators, anticipating the arrival of a railroad, quickly platted three townsites. One at San de Fuca on Penn Cove, and two along Keystone Spit: Brooklyn and New Chicago. These "boom towns" reached different degrees of development in a flurry of activity that saw roads, houses, hotels and commercial buildings constructed almost overnight. But the dreams of great profits dissipated with the realization that no railroad would be built, that planned populations of 50,000 would never be reached. Evidence of these "boom towns" on the present landscape is scarce. Only in San de Fuca, where a few vacant commercial buildings mingle with small homes, is there any indication that a sizeable community once briefly flourished.

Any excitement generated from this speculation was, for the most part, ignored by the agrarian community. Logging, shipping and farming continued to keep the local economy stable. Central Whidbey farmers enjoyed profits from exporting their crops to California and other points south.

As the twentieth century approached, agriculture remained the primary activity on Central Whidbey with very few original donation claims divided into smaller farms. Steamships made daily trips to and from Seattle bringing mail and supplies to Coupeville, San de Fuca and Monroe's Landing, providing residents a steady supply of goods and wares. This system continued into the twentieth century when another force, the military, added another layer of history, reshaping the landscape and life on Central Whidbey.

The need for a military post on Whidbey Island was clear. Bordering the Strait of Juan de Fuca, Central Whidbey formed the gateway to all of Puget Sound and in the era of Naval fortifications it had great strategic importance. Fort Casey Military Reservation was built in the central portion of the island on Admiralty Head as part of a three fort defense system designed to protect the entrance to Puget Sound. The military began acquiring land for defense as early as 1850. This land, with an additional 150 acres on and around Admiralty Head, became the construction site of the fort beginning in 1897. Materials, received at the fort's wharf and dock on Keystone Spit, travelled overland by wagon and mule (and later a small railroad) to various locations. As part of a growing community, additional roads, sidewalks, streetlights along Keystone Spit and many other elements were added to the rural landscape. Large amounts of timber were cut between the years 1900-1917 in order to provide the raw materials for barracks, bunkers, residential quarters, storehouses, officer quarters and various other support structures. Many of these structures remain in the landscape around Admiralty Head.

Officer's Row alt Fort Casey Military Reservation on Admiralty Head.

May Day celebration near Coupeville.

Pat's Place in Prairie Center, now known as the Tyee Motel and Cafe.

In 1900, the first contingent of troops arrived on Central Whidbey, and by 1910, the number of troops stationed at the fort reached 400. This large influx had a significant impact on the social and economic climate of the existing community. While the military supplied many of its own internal services, the raw materials and human resources needed in creating and maintaining the fort reached beyond the boundaries of the military reserve. In many ways, the fort itself became a social center for Central Whidbey. Townspeople attended ballgames, dances, movies, and other social events held on the expansive parade grounds. Over the years, many local young women married soldiers stationed at the fort and they often settled permanently on the island. Around this time Prairie Center developed as a new commercial center between Coupeville and the fort, catering primarily to the military. Pat's Place, located in the heart of Prairie Center, was built in 1905 by a retired military soldier and continues to serve the community today in much the same capacity, even without the military presence.

During World War I, military activity increased at the fort with the construction of map rooms and gun escarpments. Though never fired in anger, these guns were among the largest on the West Coast. After World War II, the reservation fluctuated between being an active training post and being on caretaker status. By 1954, the property was declared surplus, divided, and sold to various public and private interests. The State of Washington acquired much of the military reservation and operates a state park there today. Admiralty Head lighthouse houses an exhibit interpreting the history of the Fort Casey military operation. Seattle Pacific University acquired title to adjacent property in 1956 and now uses the former military residences, storehouses, gymnasium and other support structures for their year-round educational and recreational activities.

Whid-Isle Inn on the south shore of Penn Cove, ca. 1910.

The early twentieth century also marked the beginning of a tourist industry in the Central Whidbey area that still continues today. Most of the attention first focused on Penn Cove because of its recreation potential and scenic views. In 1901, Lester Still, a local lawyer, judge (first one in the area), and entrepreneur, purchased property near Coveland and began a resort development. The property, a densely wooded point projecting from the cove's south shore, came to be known as Still's Park. By 1907, small wood frame cabins existed in conjunction with a larger structure, the Whid-Isle Inn. Constructed of logs and overlooking the cove, this rustic hostelry welcomed both locals and visitors from Seattle and elsewhere. Arriving by steamer at the Inn's landing, guests enjoyed a quasi-wilderness experience which included boating, fishing and relaxation. Before long, the Whid-Isle gained a solid reputation for good meals and hospitality, eventually drawing more than seasonal guests. While the automobile replaced the steamship and contemporary seasonal and permanent homes replaced Judge Still's cabins, the picturesque inn continues to attract guests year round.

To the east of Still's Park along Penn Cove, a small beach resort catering to the "recreation-minded" developed at Good Beach. For many years, the Smith family owned nearly all of Good Beach and its tidelands. In the 1910s - 20s, they built several small cabins with the intention of renting them out to fishermen. Lining the beach, tourists could spend the night in these cabins for a few dollars. Adjacent to the cabins, Frank Pratt, Jr., a wealthy local property owner, had two small boathouses built to protect and store his valuable hand-made teak sailboats. Over time, the attraction of the cabins diminished and the Smiths sold off parcels of Good Beach. The cabins were moved back from the shoreline to make way for larger homes, or torn down. Two cabins stand today nestled into the trees that define the boundary of Good Beach. The two boathouses also remain intact, appearing much the same as the day they were built.

Across the way from Still's Park, Kennedy's Lagoon opened in the 1920s catering to tourists and locals Gil Kennedy, a former sheriff, believed his property was an ideal spot for swimming and fishing. He built small cabins and had a supply store and gas station as well For a daily or seasonal fee, swimmers could use the lagoon and Kennedy's diving platform. In the 1950s, the land around the lagoon was subdivided and a few year-round residents replaced most of the small cabins, but retained the character and scenic quality of the lagoon.

Following the sailing ships of the nineteenth century, steamship and ferry travel remained the only means of access to Whidbey Island during the early twentieth century. The steamer "Fairhaven" connected Coupeville, San de Fuca and Monroe's Landing to the north directly with Seattle on a daily basis. In the 1920s, ferry service linked Whidbey Island with the mainland at the south end of the island. As the automobile became a household item, Whidbey Island residents sought the construction of a bridge to the mainland at Deception Pass to the north. The Deception Pass Bridge Association lobbeyed strongly until 1935, when the bridge was completed. Years of isolation ended with a ribbon-cutting ceremony atop the bridge that spanned a treacherous but beautiful water passage.

Despite the publicity this major event generated, activity in the Central Whidbey area was already slowing down. The far-reaching effects of the Great Depression were felt strongly in the prairies and in Coupeville, and small subsistence farms started up in town where room allowed. A limited amount of new building occurred during the 1930s, but more often structures were moved and re-used, and older structures were rehabilitated. The beach along the strait proved to be an excellent source of wood for additions, barns and sheds. Another source of building materials was Fort Casey, then on "caretaker" status. The military held a public auction in which entire structures as well as building materials were sold and removed from the post. Many local individuals took advantage of items such as roofing slate and incorporated these materials into their buildings.

By the close of the 1930s, economic conditions began to improve and tourists again began to visit the area. By the late 1940s, Seattle and other "mainland" residents rediscovered Penn Cove and began building vacation homes. Much of the beachfront along the cove was subdivided in the early 1950s. Homes were built along the bluffs overlooking the water and down at Snakelum Point. Much larger than the rustic cabins of the 1910s and 1920s, these homes were carefully sited to protect the natural character of the shoreline. An appreciation of the environment was also evident in the selection of building materials which often blended with the woodlands or beach front.

With the construction of the naval air station at Oak Harbor in the 1940s, other lands in Central Whidbey were subdivided in order to provide year round residences for the increasing numbers of retired military personnel. The subdivisions, typical of the times, developed most often in agricultural lands, establishing neighborhoods or districts distinct from their surroundings. This trend continues to the present and development pressures continue to influence the culture and landscape fabric of Central Whidbey including the reserve. The people also continue. They still build, work, trade, play and live in a community shaped by the familiar ways and feelings of this historical landscape.